Diesel Heater for Garage/Workshop

You have no chance if you are continually heating cold air drawn in from outside.It has to be recycling the interior air .
What you are trying to do is the same as running a central heating system on a permanent cold feed being heated & after the last rad going down the drain.
your so right
 
gus-lopez my heater draws the air from outside for combustion only the heater has another air intake at the rear which heats up over the heat exchanger and is blown out through the front as hot air so eventually the heater is drawing warmer air in over the heat exchanger but still drawing cold air into the heater air intake for combustion. Hope this makes sense I fitted my air intake outside because I have 2 classic bikes with petrol fumes.

John.
Yes , I do have one. The combustion air should always be external. Whereas the air to be heated has to be recycled internally.
No different with the garage door closed the heat exchanger is not getting hot enough.
must be faulty then as when recycling the delivery temp should just keep increasing.
 
your so right
No he’s not quite right, as there are 2 air intakes 1 for combustion and 1 at the rear which blows across the heat exchanger and ejects from the front as hot air which as the room gets warmer warmer air is drawn across the heat exchanger but on my installation for safety my main air intake for combustion is cold air from outside which finally after combustion is blown through the exhaust.
John.
 
A bit of a saga trying to return it although bought via Amazon it was a 3rd party seller. Had messages back & forward all week they didn't want to pay the return carriage and insisted there was nothing wrong with it. Then they offered me £20 to keep it, that went up to £40, then 50%. I got onto Amazon they refunded my £20 to cover the carriage, returned it now & it only cost me £10.

Once I get the refund I'll order the one John bought.
 
The owner of the garage where I have my servicing/repairs done has a cheap Chinese diesel heater in his man cave at home.Been using it for a couple of years now without any problems.BUSBY.
 
New heater arrived this morning took some pics of it to keep Raul happy.

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Only got the soft green fuel line which a nice kink in it due to packing, sorted that out before firing it up.
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Tried firing up fan running fuel making quite a racked for ages then it shut down without igniting. After a few attempts tried starting it using the remote fired up and worked perfectly. As normal instructions useless.

The controller is much better than the last one and it has a timer but sill dont think you can get at the settings the top right button is for high altitude use, not much good to me we are a metre below sea level.

Not quite as well built as the other one but it works.

Measured the temp on the end of the heat exchanger rather better than the 49° on the other one.
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Lenny HB if you not going to replace the fuel line then I would find a spring that fits over the fuel line to stop it from kinking again.
Good idea I think it will be OK just the way it was packed with the silencer and pipes crambed in underneath.
I don't think I could get a tight enough bend on the stiff pipe, it's working fine I'll monitor it. Not got time to fit it for a week or two.
 
Hi Lenny I wrapped the pump on mine with some loft insulation and it quietened down the ticking.

John.
After starting it with the remote it was fine.
Has your one got the controller in their photo, mine appears to be a simpler one.
 
Yes same as the one you have there’s a sequence of buttons to press to get the timer up and running as I used it once but Ive forgotten the sequence, I worked it out off the timers instructions which are not for the timer we got.

John.
 
Yes same as the one you have there’s a sequence of buttons to press to get the timer up and running as I used it once but Ive forgotten the sequence, I worked it out off the timers instructions which are not for the timer we got.

John.
Not worried about the timer more interested if you can get into the pump setting like you could on the older controller.
It's working so not that important.
 
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I don't know which timer you have John, and Lenny, but there are some tutorials on YouTube for diesel heater timers.
Might be worth a look.



Cheers,

Jock.:)

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Been looking at the videos on YouTube none with the same controller.
For every reasonable video there are ½ dozen idiots posting. One I scanned through quickly "how to connect a power supply to your heater" he only connected the mains leads to the power supply and got that wrong. He solder tinned the wires before putting them in the clamps, you should never tin wires that are going to be held by a clamp or screw. Also he didn't have a clue on how to solder.

It's frightening the amount of misinformation on YouTube.
 
It's frightening the amount of misinformation on YouTube.
Yep plenty o eejits oot there.
Fortunately usually easy to spot.😎😎
Edit... glad most of us have enough common sense and just know when something is bull shit...however I suppose some who go to you tube for help and not knowing better might be taken in.
 
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I see the pump is laying flat, I thought they were supposed to at an angle or is that because you have moved it for the photo?
 
I see the pump is laying flat, I thought they were supposed to at an angle or is that because you have moved it for the photo?
It lays flat, there is a recessed molding in the tank that holds it in place. Being a combined all in one unit the fuel lines are short so it doesn't appear to cause any problems.
 
I have not seen this controller before. But if it has the elevation settings, with plateau and peak, then somebody on the tube has managed the settings. I have one similar setting for the garage, where you toggle between temp, or power levels as p1 to p6. Ho hz display. The mother board is different to, you can’t mix the controller, I tried.
 
This one goes from p1 to p8 as its working I'll leave well alone until I get it installed properly.
 
It’s my turn to have a lemon. I’m helping out some friends with the habitation side on their horse box. Got a heater, installed it yesterday, yes, the dreaded different controller with the plateau setting. Power levels H1-6. They got clever and appearance of controller is the same, just functions differ. Anyhow started ok yesterday, run for about 30 mins, went home. This morning turn on ok, a hr in, then slows and shuts down; E8 starting failure says the book. Repeat attempts to start it says same E8. I know it’s not fuel, and I’m sure air in and out is not obstructed. I will try a fresh spare plug.
Also the heat out of is is not great, compared to the one in the van. These heaters are hot and miss, it’s gone down hill since 2-3years ago. Many ppl fail to start them from new. I think the rate of lemons has increased considerably lately.

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A bit of update on previous posting. I managed to get it working. It was the fuelling. Since it stoped while running, I was thinking it can’t be the glow plug, it’s air or fuel. I re routed the pump in a place lower than heater, with the line out of the pump sloping up. It was allot of cavitation bubbles trapped on the line before the heater, under fuelling it. Once the bubbles build up, it causes the cut out. If the pump is bellow the heater, without the line going up-down, the bubbles can ride up and clear. I think this is more obvious with new pumps, until they wear in a bit and gain better compression pulse. The heat is still not the same on this plateau models, compared to the old type. Fuelling must be different, and I didn’t managed to get into the hidden settings yet.
 
A bit of update on previous posting. I managed to get it working. It was the fuelling. Since it stoped while running, I was thinking it can’t be the glow plug, it’s air or fuel. I re routed the pump in a place lower than heater, with the line out of the pump sloping up. It was allot of cavitation bubbles trapped on the line before the heater, under fuelling it. Once the bubbles build up, it causes the cut out. If the pump is bellow the heater, without the line going up-down, the bubbles can ride up and clear. I think this is more obvious with new pumps, until they wear in a bit and gain better compression pulse. The heat is still not the same on this plateau models, compared to the old type. Fuelling must be different, and I didn’t managed to get into the hidden settings yet.

Although the pumps are supposed to deliver 0.022ml per stroke, but because of the poor manufacturing tolerances, I had one that only delivered 0.017ml per stroke and another that delivered 0.024ml per stroke, so it's a bit hit and miss as to what you are likely to end up with.
 
Indeed, I was watching the bubbles going up on priming, it took some time to clear 30cm pipe. Sometimes fuel was going back to. I will have a try with another pump, it may solve the issue with the heat output.
 
Buy a 230v to 12v 30a power supply from Amazon or eBay works a treat no need for a battery.
 
Buy a 230v to 12v 30a power supply from Amazon or eBay works a treat no need for a battery.

Works great until you have a power outage and the heater can not go through its shutdown and cooling sequence and the latent heat cooks your heater ECU.
Oh, and yes it does happen.

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