Hymer - A confession - Its got Damp (1 Viewer)

[Figaro]

Agree with @Lenny HB , looks like badly repaired accident damage to me.
Get familiar with your tool kit and DIY repair.

 

[Barclaybasher]

I'd clean out the joint, position the side of the van say 4' from a brick wall, fill joint with sikaflex (if it's just the trim that's loose), plank stood up against the trim and brace it off the wall with a bit more timber until the gap closed and leave to set.... a morning's work at most, £20 in materials

£2500 and no guarantee? - they're having a laugh

 

[dalspa]

I'd clean out the joint, position the side of the van say 4' from a brick wall, fill joint with sikaflex (if it's just the trim that's loose), plank stood up against the trim and brace it off the wall with a bit more timber until the gap closed and leave to set.... a morning's work at most, £20 in materials

£2500 and no guarantee? - they're having a laugh

Similar to what I was thinking but I would get the corner of the van closer to the wall, a vertical timber against the van and a scissor jack between the timber and wall. This way you can better control the movement and also, if necessary, change the angle/direction of push. Leave the jack in place until adhesive has cured. I, also, think it’s as a result of accident damage.

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[Manic]

I think it just the old sealant drying out, as it does on the roof lights.

 

[canopus]

Peter Hambilton would be may choice but I believe he's recently retired.

Link Removed

 

[Allanm]

Well, as a ex owner of a 21 year old Swift with zero damp and previously a new Autosleeper, also with zero damp ( but questionable build quality) I was tempted to get out the cheese and biscuits, but I am not the sort of person to gloat over others troubles!
I understand your pain and hope it can be sorted at a reasonable cost.
I am in the ‘clean out, sikaflex and clamp’ camp, then just keep an eye on it, it’s not going to shake apart.
There will be no swollen wood to worry about so you have nothing to lose.

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[jdk62]

I am minded to get a couple of quotes.. any recommendations of places within 50 miles of Oxford ?
TIA

Try Nick Bolton, he is just outside Banbury. Really helpful.

He advertises in MMM. He did a really good repair on our van and very cost effective

 

[JockandRita]

I think it just the old sealant drying out, as it does on the roof lights.

It's not the sealant that you refer to, nor is the sealant in your link above, the right stuff to use........unfortunately. Products from Sika or Wurth, which are bonding adhesives are the way to go.
The rain gutter on ours came away from the body at the lower front of the MH. Deespite my insistence that I wanted Sikaflex, I was persuaded by Pioneer Caravans that I needed a non setting mastic sealant. I ended up doing the job twice, but once I used the correct bonding adhesive, the job was a good un.
Hymer used to use a product called Kurapop. I now use a bonding adhesive called Puraflex 40 from Toolstation, which is manufactured by Sika.
It came well recommended by @Terry, and I have used it with great success.

I'm with others, ie, line it up alongside a wall, gouge out and clean the joint and rain gutter surfaces, fill with bonding adhesive, bed in the gutter to seal, prop and jam firmly between the wall............down the complete lenght of the gutter rail, and leave to set for 12-24 hrs, then clean off any excess.

In the absence of Peter Hambilton of Preston, Tim Curry near Stratford is your next best independent Hymer repairer...................but that looks like a DIY job to me.

Good luck.

Jock.

 

[Barclaybasher]

Similar to what I was thinking but I would get the corner of the van closer to the wall, a vertical timber against the van and a scissor jack between the timber and wall. This way you can better control the movement and also, if necessary, change the angle/direction of push. Leave the jack in place until adhesive has cured. I, also, think it’s as a result of accident damage.

I said 4' from the wall so I could get myself in

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[Hettie's Crew]

Just because there’s a crack does not mean there’s damp. Our B544 had a leak at three years old due to dried out and cracked sealant around the cycle rack mounts. Looks like your sealant is dried and cracked.
Water came in there, got into the wardrobe top shelf, ran all through the wardrobe and down through the floor gathering in the underfloor locker. Plenty of water when it was raining but no damp due to the materials it’s made of.
Some good advice above about repairing it yourself.

 

[h1ghway1]

Why not do it yourself.

Because I'm absolutely useless with any sort of DIY..

 

[h1ghway1]

90 miles from Oxford, but Cannock Resprays have a very good reputation. You could, at least, discuss it with them over the phone.

Thats who I went to..

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[h1ghway1]

It's not the sealant that you refer to, nor is the sealant in your link above, the right stuff to use........unfortunately. Products from Sika or Wurth, which are bonding adhesives are the way to go.
The rain gutter on ours came away from the body at the lower front of the MH. Deespite my insistence that I wanted Sikaflex, I was persuaded by Pioneer Caravans that I needed a non setting mastic sealant. I ended up doing the job twice, but once I used the correct bonding adhesive, the job was a good un.
Hymer used to use a product called Kurapop. I now use a bonding adhesive called Puraflex 40 from Toolstation, which is manufactured by Sika.
It came well recommended by @Terry, and I have used it with great success.

I'm with others, ie, line it up alongside a wall, gouge out and clean the joint and rain gutter surfaces, fill with bonding adhesive, bed in the gutter to seal, prop and jam firmly between the wall............down the complete lenght of the gutter rail, and leave to set for 12-24 hrs, then clean off any excess.

In the absence of Peter Hambilton of Preston, Tim Curry near Stratford is your next best independent Hymer repairer...................but that looks like a DIY job to me.

Good luck.

Jock.

Do you have contact details for Tim Curry please..

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Have you tried Complete Caravan Services just north of Oxford?
I’m not recommending them but a quick search brought them up. It doesn’t have to be a specific Motorhome repairer. All our work is done by FM Caravans in Hull. Same skills/tools.

 

[gus-lopez]

I'd clean out the joint, position the side of the van say 4' from a brick wall, fill joint with sikaflex (if it's just the trim that's loose), plank stood up against the trim and brace it off the wall with a bit more timber until the gap closed and leave to set.... a morning's work at most, £20 in materials

£2500 and no guarantee? - they're having a laugh

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^

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[PP Bear]

Is it at all possible that something has caught the side and moved it like that.

If you’ve not noticed it immediately, then it could register the damp after the join was moved.

I would clean the joint out, remove all the old sealant and silkaflex it closed again. It’ll seal it from the outside weather and tidy it up again.

Once cured, then you’ll be free to roam again.

Good luck.

 

[h1ghway1]

Have you tried Complete Caravan Services just north of Oxford?
I’m not recommending them but a quick search brought them up. It doesn’t have to be a specific Motorhome repairer. All our work is done by FM Caravans in Hull. Same skills/tools.

Thanks.. I've been tipped off about avoiding these...

 

[JockandRita]

Do you have contact details for Tim Curry please..

In the absence of Peter Hambilton of Preston, Tim Curry near Stratford is your next best independent Hymer repairer...................but that looks like a DIY job to me

@h1ghway1. Sorry about the bum steer. His name is Peter Curry, and he owns and operates...................................... North Cotswold Motorhome Services. (Tap the little menu icon, top right of the page).

I am sure that with Peter Hambilton retiring last year, Peter Curry will be busier than ever as he too is extremely knowledgeable re Hymers, and is very good at what he does.

PETER
NORTH COTSWOLD MOTORHOME SERVICES
2 LONG MARSTON LANE
MICKLETON, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
GL55 6ST


TEL 07917 863703

EMAIL info@northcotsmotorhomeservices.com

As before, good luck.

Jock.

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[Razamataz]

I would scrape that joint out, dry it throughly and fill it with sikaflex and clamp it back together.... fixed...

i would do the same

 

[JockandRita]

@h1ghway1. Whatever you decide, keep us all informed please, as there may well be others in the same boat as yourself, who may not wish to tackle a job like that themselves either.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[h1ghway1]

@JockandRita ..

I certainly will... I've had a great response so far .. thanks everone..

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[wiljoy]

Yes .. I'm owning up to a German van with damp.

So all you British van owners gather around... get a comfy seat...pour yourself a glass of Bombardier bitter, Wadsworth 6X or any non lager drink...

Bring your cheddar/Wensleydale or other quintessential English cheese to room temperature, open a pack of Jacobs cream crackers , take the lid off the butter dish and settle down to read about my woes...feel the cockles of your heart start to warm... because here we go...

I am the owner of a 1999 Hymer B584.. I have owned and loved it for the last 3 years, it has Wild camper options ...solar panel and two gaslow bottles.

Over winter I haven't been away much but every week I take it for a 20 mile run.
On returning from a run in March View attachment 304461 I noticed that the passenger side wall had detached from the rear wall...see pics..

I took van to a Midlands motorhome repairer and asked for an opinion and a quote to repair..

Well.. when a knowledgeable engineer says ' I've never seen that before' ... my heart sunk and I knew I was in trouble..

They suspected damp but advised me that a repair would be starting at £2500 ..could be more and they could not guarantee the repair..

so my options...
1. Trade in with a dealer - Probably no chance or buttons.
2. 2nd opinion ? the workshop are well respected..
3. Advertise on a specialist site and hope a hobbyist wants a challenge.
4.. Tape over the join and just keep it going until another major repair arises.. eg Engine or gearbox failure..

Option 4 is my current choice.

Anyone else have an opinion ?

This is written tongue in cheek and I don't want to upset anyone.
I accept in life sometimes we are lucky.. and sometimes we are unlucky..
Overall in my life I feel I'm in credit.

PS I still love her.. meiner liebling xx

Sorry to dissapoint you but I to have a so called quality German van with damp. My Carthago, which i call the shed, has suffered water ingress to the garage area. It must be a free option now on a lot of german makes

 

[CazPaul]

Sorry to dissapoint you but I to have a so called quality German van with damp. My Carthago, which i call the shed, has suffered water ingress to the garage area. It must be a free option now on a lot of german makes

Any van can get water ingress it's the damage caused that's the important bit

Windows, roof hatches, locker doors, all can leak, our first 2006 Hymer p1ssed water into the garage.

 

[bfb]

If you know someone in the aircraft fuselage industry get them to get some grey glue. It is used for bonding. I used it on a friends motorhome about 25 years back when working in Galley construction. It seals and bonds and is stronger than the surrounding bodywork

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[h1ghway1]

There is an outside locker under the damage, can you see/feel any rot there ? Try digging your finger nails in.

Its bone dry..

Updates coming soon ....I'm going for a third opinion on Tuesday..

 

[JockandRita]

Its bone dry..

Updates coming soon ....I'm going for a third opinion on Tuesday..

Whereabouts this time please?

Good luck,

Jock.

 

[nfdmover]

Wait for hot dry spell to dry it out , then silaflex !

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[h1ghway1]

Whereabouts this time please?

Good luck,

Jock.

NORTH COTSWOLD MOTORHOME SERVICES

 

[h1ghway1]

Took my van to Nick Bolton in Banbury. Small rural workshop with a variety of vehicles and a small motorhome
rental business. He's a really nice guy who had a look and said probably a small leak has expanded a batten or two and they have expanded pushing joint out.
He said the Silkaflex route would be temporary but due to the pressure of the end panel pushing out , he recommended that he would drill into the aluminium post and screw the end back in, replace the gulleys with aluminium on both sides... no estimate as he offered me 6K for it as it is , I said I'd think about it ..

Went to Pete Curry yesterday, drove into the deepest Cotswolds and found his small rural unit.
My heart lifted as I drove in and saw several vintage Hymers and Hymers around the same year of mine.
His solution is to partially remove some of the shower cubicle to give him access to the corner post and screw into it from both sides... price around 2k... also said van could fetch between 12-14k after repair

He owns the same model as mine and has removed his bathroom whilst he did some upgrade work on his van, this for me is the clincher.

In conclusion .. both very good guys and thanks for the funsters who pointed me in their direction.

 

[Lenny HB]

. He's a really nice guy who had a look and said probably a small leak has expanded a batten or two and they have expanded pushing joint out.

Good job you took it to the 2nd guy the first one obviously doesn't understand Hymer construction - there aren't battens that can swell, Hymer use the PUAL system for construction.

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