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Do they fit on the buss bar you linked to?Best to use ring terminals.
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Do they fit on the buss bar you linked to?Best to use ring terminals.
If you use the right size.Do they fit on the buss bar you linked to?
You’re honoured peterc10 I NEVER get invites like that, he won’t even pitch up near me!! Must be the SOGPeter if you need a hand with anything you are always welcome to pop down
We are back on the 18th.
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Now you have confused me. I thought the grub screw screwed down on the bare wire to make the connectionIf you use the right size.
I’ll save up all my jobs and have a month down thereYou never asked, long drive for you, Peter lives just up the road.
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His charges for overnight stays are much higher now that his wallet has found out how much campsites charge. I think he will be charging me extra as a day visitor nowI’ll save up all my jobs and have a month down there
He’s got to fund the new Carthago somehowHis charges for overnight stays are much higher now that his wallet has found out how much campsites charge. I think he will be charging me extra as a day visitor now
He only let me visit if I promised to keep telling Mi how good Carthagos areHe’s got to fund the new Carthago somehow
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I think they are just screws into the plate so need proper connections you don't want them working loose and arcing starting a fire.Now you have confused me. I thought the grub screw screwed down on the bare wire to make the connection
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I will leave it on hook up but take the charging fuse on the EBL out and also the solar fuse on the solar controller. I understand that that will disable the charging of the leisure batteries but still let the cab battery charge.Something I may have missed but I have seen no plans for disabling charging when used for long periods eg isolator on the battery negative. There are other methods. LiFePO4 prefers not to be held in fully charged state.
That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+ signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.Hi we fitted a voltronic duo solar controller and found the b2b drained the starter battery because it sensed power going to it, had to reconfigure b2b to only be operational with ignition on.
May not apply to you if you don't have duo.
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Crimp the connections in a vice- there’s a guy on YouTube showing how to do it that’s how I did mine and it works a treatYour link does not go to a Buss bar. I have found a 4 pole Buss bar for the positive. I am not sure I will need it for the shunt because there seems to be plenty of height on the bolt.
The problem I have is that I do not have a crimp tool for larger diameters so have to order my leads ready crimped.
Can you provide a link pleaseCrimp the connections in a vice- there’s a guy on YouTube showing how to do it that’s how I did mine and it works a treat
The Votronic B2B can be triggered by D+or voltage. With you connecting it using D+it won't be a problem.That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+ signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.
The solar controller does trickle charge the cab battery as well, just like the EBL does when on EHU. .
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Would a discrete switch be easier than Fuse out of the controller (certainly in my position).this would still charge via b2b .I will leave it on hook up but take the charging fuse on the EBL out and also the solar fuse on the solar controller. I understand that that will disable the charging of the leisure batteries but still let the cab battery charge.
I don’t know how to do a link, but I just did a search on YouTube simply typing in how to crimp lug terminals the easy way and the option of that video came upCan you provide a link please
In my set up the 2 fuses I am referring to will be very easy to get to, just open the external locker and they are facing you. There is no easy place to put a heavy duty switch that would be as accessible. The question was about how to ensure that there was no charging during a long lay up. That lay up would end when the engine was started and the B2B kicked in.Would a discrete switch be easier than Fuse out of the controller (certainly in my position).this would still charge via b2b .
Another thing I have missed that is often used to bump up the price of conversation is a battery monitor eg a victron smart shunt (cheap ones not suitable for Li) my suggestion is don't buy a smart shunt but wait and consider what you might want to do. The more expensive bmv712 has all the capabilites of the smart and more, it has a internal relay that can be set by measured or calculated values eg temperature or SOC. The relay can control an external ssr eg don't charge based on temperature or reaching a specific SOC.
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That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+
It is an ablemade b2b, but it was an easy change.signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.
The solar controller does trickle charge the cab battery as well, just like the EBL does when on EHU. .
I had a look on YouTube but they all seem to be American and they use solder on their crimp joints. I think I have read on this forum that solder should not be used as it is brittle and can crack with the vibrations in vehicles. Is that correct Lenny HB ?I don’t know how to do a link, but I just did a search on YouTube simply typing in how to crimp lug terminals the easy way and the option of that video came up
Yep, shouldn't use solder opposite to brittle under pressure in crimpted joint it goes semi-liquid resulting in a loose connection. I may not have got the technical terms right but that's the principle.I had a look on YouTube but they all seem to be American and they use solder on their crimp joints. I think I have read on this forum that solder should not be used as it is brittle and can crack with the vibrations in vehicles. Is that correct Lenny HB ?
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Not heard of those.It is an ablemade b2b, but it was an easy change.
Go for a victron power in, or distributor PeterSo that acts as both a buss bar for both positive and negative and also a fuse holder to protect the positive cable? Are the fuses they use standard?
Thanks Dave, but I am not too fussed about neatness (according to Angela!), given that it is not on show and the existing Hymer wiring that is hidden away could not be called "tidy".Go for a victron power in, or distributor Peter
https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-distribution-systems/lynx-distributor,
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You may be correct, but I bought it now so we will see how we will go.
EBL 119 can only handle 18A according to Schaudt. Maximum solar power 275W and can't handle lithium batteries. So need to bypass the EBL.What EBL have you got? I have a EBL119 in my Globecar and I bypassed the EBL and wired my 50A votronic the directly to the 200Ah KS Energy lithium battery.
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