Getting ready to change to Lithium and need some advice (1 Viewer)

WESTY66

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Jun 17, 2017
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All the gear, and no idea!
Peter if you need a hand with anything you are always welcome to pop down
We are back on the 18th.
You’re honoured peterc10 I NEVER get invites like that, he won’t even pitch up near me!! Must be the SOG:rofl::rofl:

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WESTY66

LIFE MEMBER
Jun 17, 2017
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All the gear, and no idea!
His charges for overnight stays are much higher now that his wallet has found out how much campsites charge. I think he will be charging me extra as a day visitor now :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
He’s got to fund the new Carthago somehow🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️:rofl:
 

Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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Now you have confused me. I thought the grub screw screwed down on the bare wire to make the connection
I think they are just screws into the plate so need proper connections you don't want them working loose and arcing starting a fire.
The ones to the battery are going to be at least 16mm salq and will need a lug terminal.
 
Jan 27, 2018
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Something I may have missed but I have seen no plans for disabling charging when used for long periods eg isolator on the battery negative. There are other methods. LiFePO4 prefers not to be held in fully charged state.

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peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
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Something I may have missed but I have seen no plans for disabling charging when used for long periods eg isolator on the battery negative. There are other methods. LiFePO4 prefers not to be held in fully charged state.
I will leave it on hook up but take the charging fuse on the EBL out and also the solar fuse on the solar controller. I understand that that will disable the charging of the leisure batteries but still let the cab battery charge.
 
Mar 15, 2021
145
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79,789
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VW T5
Hi we fitted a voltronic duo solar controller and found the b2b drained the starter battery because it sensed power going to it, had to reconfigure b2b to only be operational with ignition on.
May not apply to you if you don't have duo.
 
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peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
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Hi we fitted a voltronic duo solar controller and found the b2b drained the starter battery because it sensed power going to it, had to reconfigure b2b to only be operational with ignition on.
May not apply to you if you don't have duo.
That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+ signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.

The solar controller does trickle charge the cab battery as well, just like the EBL does when on EHU. .

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Apr 21, 2015
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Your link does not go to a Buss bar. I have found a 4 pole Buss bar for the positive. I am not sure I will need it for the shunt because there seems to be plenty of height on the bolt.

The problem I have is that I do not have a crimp tool for larger diameters so have to order my leads ready crimped.
Crimp the connections in a vice- there’s a guy on YouTube showing how to do it that’s how I did mine and it works a treat
 
Dec 17, 2016
952
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Hymer B525 2006 A cl
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That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+ signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.

The solar controller does trickle charge the cab battery as well, just like the EBL does when on EHU. .
The Votronic B2B can be triggered by D+or voltage. With you connecting it using D+it won't be a problem.
You asked at the beginning of the thread what to disconnect. In addition to the 50A fuse at the starter battery there is a 20A one for the fridge supply to the EBL. This should be disconnected also.
I have a feeling that the fridge wire is also what the EBL uses to trickle charge the starter battery ( Lenny?) So I think if that is reconnected afterwards then the starter battery wilk still get a small charge.

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Jan 27, 2018
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I will leave it on hook up but take the charging fuse on the EBL out and also the solar fuse on the solar controller. I understand that that will disable the charging of the leisure batteries but still let the cab battery charge.
Would a discrete switch be easier than Fuse out of the controller (certainly in my position).this would still charge via b2b .
Another thing I have missed that is often used to bump up the price of conversation is a battery monitor eg a victron smart shunt (cheap ones not suitable for Li) my suggestion is don't buy a smart shunt but wait and consider what you might want to do. The more expensive bmv712 has all the capabilites of the smart and more, it has a internal relay that can be set by measured or calculated values eg temperature or SOC. The relay can control an external ssr eg don't charge based on temperature or reaching a specific SOC.
 
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peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
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Would a discrete switch be easier than Fuse out of the controller (certainly in my position).this would still charge via b2b .
Another thing I have missed that is often used to bump up the price of conversation is a battery monitor eg a victron smart shunt (cheap ones not suitable for Li) my suggestion is don't buy a smart shunt but wait and consider what you might want to do. The more expensive bmv712 has all the capabilites of the smart and more, it has a internal relay that can be set by measured or calculated values eg temperature or SOC. The relay can control an external ssr eg don't charge based on temperature or reaching a specific SOC.
In my set up the 2 fuses I am referring to will be very easy to get to, just open the external locker and they are facing you. There is no easy place to put a heavy duty switch that would be as accessible. The question was about how to ensure that there was no charging during a long lay up. That lay up would end when the engine was started and the B2B kicked in.

The batteries' BMS prevents charging below zero and so does the B2B and solar controller when on Lithium profiles. I like that as it is a belt and braces approach. My only slight worry is the the EBL will still be providing mains charging so there is not a double protection there. I think that will stop if I remove the 20A charging fuse on the EBL. The advantage then is the cab battery will still get a trickle charge from the EBL which I leave hooked up when at home.

Edit
I already have a Victron BM700 which gives me all the basic info I need and can be adjusted to cope with Lithium batteries. As for a smart shunt I cannot see it is needed, given that I have lots more info on each battery by using their built in Bluetooth functions.

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Mar 15, 2021
145
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That is strange because AFAIK the Votronic B2B, like all B2Bs, only comes on when it gets a D+

signal from the alternator that the engine is running. It does not depend on whether or not the cab battery is being charged otherwise it would come on when we are on EHU.

The solar controller does trickle charge the cab battery as well, just like the EBL does when on EHU. .
It is an ablemade b2b, but it was an easy change.
 
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peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
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I don’t know how to do a link, but I just did a search on YouTube simply typing in how to crimp lug terminals the easy way and the option of that video came up
I had a look on YouTube but they all seem to be American and they use solder on their crimp joints. I think I have read on this forum that solder should not be used as it is brittle and can crack with the vibrations in vehicles. Is that correct Lenny HB ?
 

Lenny HB

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I had a look on YouTube but they all seem to be American and they use solder on their crimp joints. I think I have read on this forum that solder should not be used as it is brittle and can crack with the vibrations in vehicles. Is that correct Lenny HB ?
Yep, shouldn't use solder opposite to brittle under pressure in crimpted joint it goes semi-liquid resulting in a loose connection. I may not have got the technical terms right but that's the principle.

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Dec 31, 2010
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So that acts as both a buss bar for both positive and negative and also a fuse holder to protect the positive cable? Are the fuses they use standard?
Go for a victron power in, or distributor Peter

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-distribution-systems/lynx-distributor,


IMG_20220320_104624.jpg

IMG_20220321_132513.jpg
 
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peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
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Thanks Dave, but I am not too fussed about neatness (according to Angela!), given that it is not on show and the existing Hymer wiring that is hidden away could not be called "tidy".

My original way of doing this through the EBL meant that I did not need to make major changes to any of the battery connections, which was a way of simplifying fitting. I based my choice of battery type on that and their sizes and node positions are identical to what I have already got. In any event I have got to have two batteries for the capacity I want anyway because there is no single space to fit one large one.

I am being steered towards not using the EBL for these connections for good reasons, but it requires the addition of a couple more attachments to each battery node. I am pretty sure that the negative end of the Victron shunt I have can cope with the two more lugs. And if I can find a buss bar I am happy with, and a place to put it, that will tidy up things on the positive side. The one I have coming today (thanks again Amazon) works on a similar principle to the Lynx one and is a lot cheaper, as long as it works!

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Dec 31, 2010
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Peter when I fitted my setup I already had a schaudt 25amp B2B fitted, I left all the wiring the same from the ebl although mine is a ebl 242-1.I found when I changed it the fridge relay never worked when engine running.

Attached is a fag packet sketch of how mine is wired and is working fine although I have disabled the ebl charger and now use the charger on my multiplus. If your KS lithiums are okay with a charge on a gel setting then there is no need for you to do this but you will only have 18amp but to be fair I have never used the mains charger yet as the solar seems to up to the job but will see in the winter.
I would wire your solar straight to the batteries, and if you have a bluetooth mppt you can monitor everything there and on your shunt instead of your control panel but either way should be fine.

IMG_20220318_134805.jpg

Zoom in and you can see the wires at the back of the ebl and my b2b(blue) attached to the back of the seat.

IMG_20220511_144250.jpg
 
Jul 29, 2021
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Nottingham, UK
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Boxer L3H2
You may be correct, but I bought it now so we will see how we will go.

It'll be fine. B2B are just nice for a bit extra power. I have mine turned off unless I really need it since I don't want to effect MPG.
The solar panels put plenty of power in. I'd need to drive for 18 hours for the B2B to charge my battery from empty to full on it's own.
 
Nov 1, 2021
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What EBL have you got? I have a EBL119 in my Globecar and I bypassed the EBL and wired my 50A votronic the directly to the 200Ah KS Energy lithium battery.
EBL 119 can only handle 18A according to Schaudt. Maximum solar power 275W and can't handle lithium batteries. So need to bypass the EBL.

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