Impact driver for wheel nuts (2 Viewers)

[andyjc]

Tighten with an impact gun and finish off with a Torque wrench.

This is generally not advisable as the impact wrench could tighten way beyond the normal/recommended torque for wheel nuts. An exception is using an impact wrench like say a Milwaukee 1/2 inch mid torque wrench where you can set it to tighten nuts up to 47 Nm, then complete to specified torque with a torque wrench. Even then I wouldn't use it with locking wheel nuts, either doing up or undoing, as the splines in the wheel nut key are not designed for impact wrench loads.

 

[Revolvor]

Not for wheel nuts, but I used one of these for tightening nuts where I once worked.

Maximum Torque 100,000 Nm

 

[andysam]

You'll probably find the 3 year warranty is on the first one and not the replacements.
They will only get the remainder of the original 3 years

That's correct, you don't get a new warranty on a warranty replacement.

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[roadwarrior]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0856JMW9H/?tag=mhf04-21

is what i have and it does my mercedes winchcome and my mates sprinter with ease

 

[L' Hobo]

A friend bought a 20v impact driver from Lidl last week
I though great would it shift the nuts on my Fiat motor home
The answer was NO

Can anyone recommend a rechargeable one that will

Cheers
Kev

I bought a Heavy Duty DeWalt XR cordless with 1625 Nm torque back in 2010, which we used on the HGV & PSV's.

Never found anything it couldn't undo but so it should.

(Just checked, now about £350 from Machine Mart.)

Okay for undoing but if tightening, handle with care or you finish up with broken studs etc.

 

[TheBig1]

I have a cheap Lidl one and a long torque wrench. Not ideal but I break the nuts loose with the bar then spin the nuts on and off with the driver. Then of course I use the bar to re set the torque. Cheap nut drivers don't have adjustable torque, so you need to use a bar anyway

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[cyberyacht]

I'd be afraid that the nut would remain static but my arm would be wrenched off.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

I have a cheap Lidl one and a long torque wrench. Not ideal but I break the nuts loose with the bar then spin the nuts on and off with the driver. Then of course I use the bar to re set the torque. Cheap nut drivers don't have adjustable torque, so you need to use a bar anyway

My lidl one has 4 fixed settings on the front by using a slider. I don't think even on the highest setting it would budge wheel nuts tightened using a commercial gun, or indeed a length of bar. It's still handy to have, but on the van I carry my Haiko combi drill, which will spin the nuts once hand released, and are also great for winding down canopy securing plates. It works for me as I have various other Haiko bits on board, big torch, hand held vacuum.

Mike.

 

[L' Hobo]

My lidl one has 4 fixed settings on the front by using a slider. I don't think even on the highest setting it would budge wheel nuts tightened using a commercial gun, or indeed a length of bar. It's still handy to have, but on the van I carry my Haiko combi drill, which will spin the nuts once hand released, and are also great for winding down canopy securing plates. It works for me as I have various other Haiko bits on board, big torch, hand held vacuum.

Mike.

My impact wrench, works harder winding up the scissor jack than taking off the wheel nuts.

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

My impact wrench, works harder winding up the scissor jack than taking off the wheel nuts.

Caution!! I used it on my jack and for whatever reason it rammed the inner wormdrive sleeve up against the stop. So although the jack still works it doesn't hold it's closed position
Which reminds me must source a replacement at some point. I still have my bottle jack on board though
Mike.

 

[Coastal Cruiser.]

Still have one of these 3/4 drive beasts in my shed bought 3 of them for when my firm use to replace railway bridges, half inch impact guns would not wind up the bolts but this beast would110v though!!

 

[Blaydon]

Hi folks, air and power tools all have their limit. I have experience of shifting van and truck wheel bolts and nuts over the years..
there are some tips:
Quality breaker bar with impact socket - with a scaffold bar on the end. Put load on it and then smack it with a hammer.
I have a manual impact driver, 1/2 “ drive I’ve had it years. You put the socket on it, turn it and hold it steady them belt it with a Club hammer. Ver effective to get things started.
If all else fails, use heat. Warm the nut with a butane torch, spray with WD40 or whatever. Repeat and them try with socket and breaker bar. One word of warning - it will hold the hear so be careful not to just grab it once it moves. Also take care to inspect everything after shifting to ensure nothing had been damaged by the heat.

Another point check the threat! I watched an apprentice struggle for about 20 mins with a transit wheel nut before pointing out that left hand side had left hand thread. Still made a bit of entertainment for tea break.

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[L' Hobo]

Hi folks, air and power tools all have their limit. I have experience of shifting van and truck wheel bolts and nuts over the years..
there are some tips:
Quality breaker bar with impact socket - with a scaffold bar on the end. Put load on it and then smack it with a hammer.
I have a manual impact driver, 1/2 “ drive I’ve had it years. You put the socket on it, turn it and hold it steady them belt it with a Club hammer. Ver effective to get things started.
If all else fails, use heat. Warm the nut with a butane torch, spray with WD40 or whatever. Repeat and them try with socket and breaker bar. One word of warning - it will hold the hear so be careful not to just grab it once it moves. Also take care to inspect everything after shifting to ensure nothing had been damaged by the heat.

Another point check the threat! I watched an apprentice struggle for about 20 mins with a transit wheel nut before pointing out that left hand side had left hand thread. Still made a bit of entertainment for tea break.

Are you sure it was a Transit?
I ran early Transits and cannot remember left hand threads?

Mind you, it was a long time ago?

 

[Blaydon]

Are you sure it was a Transit?
I ran early Transits and cannot remember left hand threads?

Mind you, it was a long time ago?

Yes Transit flat bed builder’s van. It took a breaker bar (Sanp-on) 6’ scaffold tube and a sledge hammer. When each nut went Bang, as it released, the shock went up the tube and shook the poor sod standing on the pole. Another job for the apprentice

 

[Stoosal]

Are you sure it was a Transit?
I ran early Transits and cannot remember left hand threads?

Mind you, it was a long time ago?

Think they were on twin rear wheel versions……

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[Blaydon]

Think they were on twin rear wheel versions……

Yes it was a twin wheel, the idea being the nuts would tighten as the wheel was driven. Rather than loosening. Great plan Henry!

 

[L' Hobo]

Yes it was a twin wheel, the idea being the nuts would tighten as the wheel was driven. Rather than loosening. Great plan Henry!

It was the twin wheeled MK1 petrol Vans and the useless diesel (was it called, the Essex engine?) with twin starter batteries that I had but, as I say, it was a long time ago!

 

[Terry]

Was it a York engine?

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[L' Hobo]

Was it a York engine?

That's the one! Useless!

 

[Roby2008]

What torque do you set your breaker bar too when retightening

Easy, when the torque wrist goes 'click' it's good....you may need the torque shoulder settings when using the really long bar......there is a haptic feedback (pain) option for those hard of hearing ......

 

[Terry]

Morning Owen, I owned a twin wheeler CF Luton van that had LHT , on the Driver side if memory is right.
Essex engine was in fast fords

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[L' Hobo]

Morning Owen, I owned a twin wheeler CF Luton van that had LHT , on the Driver side if memory is right.
Essex engine was in fast fords

All I can remember is that on some of larger vehicles we had LHT's but, for the life of me, I can't remember what or which but like you, I thought it was the drivers side?

My brain is so full of useless information, I think it's running out of my ears at night.
I'll have to stop sleeping on my side and see if that helps?

 

[Blaydon]

The joy of the York engine was it was so loud and slow you could hear it coming before to got to the workshop and gave you time to hide so you didn’t have to work on it.