Help! Truma control panel

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Hey all,

As you know - I am really new at this.

We took our brand new motorhome out to Pembrokeshire and then for a little run around Holland, Germany, Belgium and France at half term and really loved it - luckily we had no problems. That was Feb half term.

NOW HELP!

I am in the South of France and I am stuck! I first of all had an issue with the water just emptying - apparently after some research I found out this was due to an anti freezing something or other and I had to click something to stop it spewing out the bottom. That was not too bad as it was in Ashford just before I went to the shuttle.

Now I am near St Tropez and having constant heating/water issues. The Truma system keep dishing out the warning codes (which are not in the book and are not on-line - of course they have not emailed back). So I was having plain sailing just going from aire to aire not hooking up as I was running of solar power and just topping up the water. I arrived at an aire with hook up and that's when it started. I keep getting 'E632 H'. I called the dealership and apparently this is due to the aires wiring and not to use it so it tripped the system (I was talked through the reset task on the main unit under the seating area). But now even not being hooked up its saying it. Any ideas? And also I keep getting various other ones.

Stressed dad of two flying solo until Saturday :cry:

Rich
 
I assume it is a Truma gas /electric combi. Have you gas? If so reset if possible. Turn the dial to gas(Flame symbol) make sure it is full of water. Once water is warm the "dump" valve should remain closed and you should then have hot water.
Try this link to a you tube video by Oaktree. It may help if your controls are like this.
 
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I assume it is a Truma gas /electric combi. Have you gas? If so reset if possible. Turn the dial to gas(Flame symbol) make sure it is full of water. Once water is warm the "dump" valve should remain closed and you should then have hot water.
Try this link to a you tube video by Oaktree. It may help if your controls are like this.


Thank you for this. I have tried it but I have a slightly different system. It is now randomly blowing hot air out. :mad: The husband is flying out to Nice on Saturday and I have sent him for a polarity reverse adaption to pack in his bag just incase we need it for the rest of the trip - we are going back to the UK on Bank Holiday.

This is what I'm dealing with. (n)
 

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Bringing this back to top as I know Rich is struggling with this one.

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I know the dealer told you how to reset the electrics but did they suggest you reset the iNet control panel?
 
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I have always found Truma repsond to emails but would it be worth giving them a call on this number? 01283 587900 nothing ventured etc!
 
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Like a lot of Truma error codes, 632 is one that is not listed on Truma's site so it will be a case of contacting them. I've found it a bit hit and miss when you phone them sometimes very helful other time not so, you will have to persevere with them.
I think the dealer you spoke to was talking out of his rear end.
 
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Thanks for replies
I’ve never carried a polarity checker or ever bothered about it so I would be surprised if that was the cause. Could it be caused by something like a voltage drop at the aire supply?
I have also given him the telephone number so hopefully he can get a response about the error code. I don’t understand why they list some in the manual and not others.

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I think the H= furnace and the flame symbol would suggest a fault with the gas side from what I can see.
If resetting the panel doesn't work I'd disconnect the 12v supply from the panel and boiler and start again,as long as they have the instructions on how to set it up again or have access to the internet to access them.
 
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Its very unlikely to be reversed polarity, that won't make any difference. However, it could be something like reversed neutral and earth on the aires wiring causing the problem. Have you checked the two fuses?

There is a drain valve with a blue knob next to the boiler. This will automatically open if the temperature gets down to 3 degrees to save the boiler freezing up.
 
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Hey guys,

Thank you for the comments. Finally fixed it. I have been off the grid a couple of nights in Italy (now up in the Alps).

So it was nothing to do with reverse polarity as apparently all new motorhome have something build in to handle this. The dealership had no clue. Luckily Riverbankannie came to my rescue and forwarded me the number for Truma by text. It was something to do with the temperature and needed to be reset - not by the handy reset button under the casing. But some silly hole which is right in front of the ducts making it impossible to access (as a design teacher I feel this is a fail :D2) - as you needed to stick the end of a pencil in there!!! LOL.

But it has been working ever since - not that we needed it being 21 degrees!

Thank you all!!!

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Good to hear it’s all sorted and that you can get on with your holiday. I bet the boys are having a great time especially if it’s nice and warm to be outside. It’s sunny here but a biting wind today.
:)
Did Truma say what the error code meant ? It would be useful to document it and was the reset thingy (technical term :whistle: as I assume not a button to press) on the boiler somewhere near where the ducts come out?
 
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So it was nothing to do with reverse polarity as apparently all new motorhome have something build in to handle this.

Reverse polarity is only ever an issue on newish (circa 2000+) motorhomes if you are daft enough to take an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains. It will never harm normal mains equipment in use.

Its one of those wonderful scare stories dreamed up by someone with a little knowledge but not a lot.
 
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Reverse polarity is only ever an issue on newish (circa 2000+) motorhomes if you are daft enough to take an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains. It will never harm normal mains equipment in use.

Its one of those wonderful scare stories dreamed up by someone with a little knowledge but not a lot.
It’s a shame nobody told the dealer who sold Rich the brand new Motorhome this. It’s what they told him on the phone was wrong.o_O
 
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Good to hear it’s all sorted and that you can get on with your holiday. I bet the boys are having a great time especially if it’s nice and warm to be outside. It’s sunny here but a biting wind today.
:)
Did Truma say what the error code meant ? It would be useful to document it and was the reset thingy (technical term :whistle: as I assume not a button to press) on the boiler somewhere near where the ducts come out?

The boys are having an amazing time and we are somewhere lush for a few nights.

There is a reset button for the temperature only in some tiny hole which is awkward.

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I will be calling the dealership and telling them what it was and also give them some pictures of things that are not right! LOL.
 
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Reverse polarity is only ever an issue on newish (circa 2000+) motorhomes if you are daft enough to take an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains.
That's interesting. Can you explain why it's an issue if you are daft enough to take an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains, but it's not an issue if the element of a double-insulated kettle has corrosion/leakage damage that blows a fuse?
 
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We are having some controller issues of our own with the Thule Omnivent !
 
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That's interesting. Can you explain why it's an issue if you are daft enough to take an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains, but it's not an issue if the element of a double-insulated kettle has corrosion/leakage damage that blows a fuse?

I'm not quite sure what your question is here. If a kettle has blown a fuse in those circumstances, its not going to leap across the motorhome and electrocute you.

If its blown the fuse then there must be a short between live and neutral, and the fuse will blow whether its in the live or the neutral. It does not matter where in a circuit a fuse is. However, in a motorhome it is almost certain that it will have tripped the MCB (miniature circuit breaker) first as this is far more sensitive than the fuse in the plug. (BS1362 for mains fuses stipulates that they should blow at 1.6 times the rated current, ie for a 13amp fuse it should take 20 amps indefinitely, and only blow above this current.) Modern caravan/motorhome MCBs are double pole, so cutting both live and neutral, so reverse polarity makes no difference here. The mains wiring in a motorhome (or caravan) does not use a ring main system and hence the MCB ratings are much lower than domestic ring main MCBs. In my motorhome the power circuit has 13amp MCBs whereas domestic wiring uses 30amp MCBs for the sockets.

Secondly if the kettle is double insulated you will not get a shock from it simply because it is double insulated. If for some reason you are daft enough to stick your hand in the water after a fuse has blown, if there is reverse polarity, if the MCB has not tripped, if you have left it still plugged in and the water becomes live, then you have a RCD (residual current device) in the consumer unit which will trip as soon as any current passes through you. That's an awful lot of ifs before the RCD comes into play!

The RCD is designed to trip before a reasonably healthy person gets enough of an electric shock to do them serious harm.

Personally, rather that wasting time and effort worrying about the reverse polarity non-issue, it would be better to look inside the kettle every now and then, and if the element appears badly corroded, chuck it out and buy a new kettle.

Finally, reflect that the Certificate of Conformity for your motorhome is a EU wide certificate, and as such, must conform to the nature of the wiring in any European country not just the UK.
 
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If its blown the fuse then there must be a short between live and neutral, and the fuse will blow whether its in the live or the neutral. It does not matter where in a circuit a fuse is. However, in a motorhome it is almost certain that it will have tripped the MCB (miniature circuit breaker) first as this is far more sensitive than the fuse in the plug.
A typical caravan kettle is less than 1000 watts, so it's likely to have a 5 amp fuse. That will blow at less than 10 amps. Or maybe you'd like to bet the 13 amp MCB will trip first.

So you don't notice the fuse has blown, open the lid, grab hold of the metal tap, and direct a stream of water into the live water. Now who'd be daft enough to do that, I wonder? Better pray that the professional electrician who just reverse wired the pitch hookup got that RCD connection nailed.

But that wasn't the question. If you think the faulty kettle is safe, why do you think taking an appliance apart whilst it is still connected to the mains is unsafe?

Still, I'm sure that all motorhomes manufactured or home-converted after circa 2000 will have a proper Certificate of Conformity. Even though the Regs changed radically in 2008.

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Better pray that the professional electrician who just reverse wired the pitch hookup got that RCD connection nailed.

The RCD in a motorhome, as with all RCDs works equally well with reverse polarity.
 
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The boys are having an amazing time and we are somewhere lush for a few nights.

There is a reset button for the temperature only in some tiny hole which is awkward.

Hi RichieRY, I am having the exact same issue and I’m panicking a little bit, could you please tell me exactly where that tiny button is located?? ?
 
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Dont get too worried about reverse polarity. Rcd in the intake box will work reversed or not. The only difference is that in Uk we usually only switch one of the two wires- thats enough to break the circuit and "switchOff" the appliance. In EU they usuallly switch Live and Neutral
However if you start to dismantle things and here a metal toaster is a good example; you stick a metal knife into it to get out a piece of toast thats jammed perhaps? then ,if the switch has only disconected the Neutral and left the Live (240) connected, you could get a shock if you are holding/contact the earthed frame of the toaster or anywhere else. So two rules No 1 dont stick knives in toasters and No2 get your self a simple 3 neon plug in indicator so at least you are aware if its reverse polarity- it will also tell you other things most of which are far more important and mean that I wouldnt use that supply point, once I knew.
Hope this helps and great to hear that you sorted the error message.
Me,? we have Truma but its the Old Sort
Mike & Ann
 
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I called support and they sent me the instructions via email straightaway. They seem to be getting lots of calls about this error E632H...
This is what they sent me, in case it’s helpful for others panicking out there like I did.
 

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