Shurflo pump fittings leaking

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Is there a knack to assembling Shurflo pump fittings so they don't leak? Following the manufacturer's instructions, it says they shouldn't need any tape on the threads and to only finger tighten them, but the pressure on the pump output side is spraying water out. Looking at the fittings there's no apparent washer to seal them and I've tightened pretty hard without tools. Any tips? All I can find about leaky Shurflo stuff relates to the pump itself rather than the fittings and I'm more accustomed to working with copper/steel.
 
Is there a knack to assembling Shurflo pump fittings so they don't leak? Following the manufacturer's instructions, it says they shouldn't need any tape on the threads and to only finger tighten them, but the pressure on the pump output side is spraying water out. Looking at the fittings there's no apparent washer to seal them and I've tightened pretty hard without tools. Any tips? All I can find about leaky Shurflo stuff relates to the pump itself rather than the fittings and I'm more accustomed to working with copper/steel.
Got a picture of the parts you are joining
 
One of the secrets to getting a leak free press in joint, is to make sure the pipe is cut square to the connector.

Buy a proper plastic pipe cutter and inserting the pipe is a very hard push, not a mammy pamby effort.

First it will go in easily, THEN it needs another quarter of an inch push. 👍

Edit: Sorry, that's for the likes of JG connections, not Shurflo
 
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Aren’t the pump fittings push onto the pipe, but screw onto the pump?

If screw onto the pump, then there should be a sealing washer

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Got a picture of the parts you are joining
It's these type of connectors (elbow joint linked, also got a straight one to accumulator):
Shurflo elbow fitting

It's a Shurflo Trail King pump.

The barb connection to flexible hose is secure and watertight.

The screw on connection to pump is where I get the leak.

This is from the pump manual, stating no tape to be used and fitting design should provide a watertight seal, no mention of any washers/O-rings

Shurflo_Plumbing.jpg.webp


I'm starting to wonder if my hand tight is different from their hand tight, cranked it too far and knackered it.
 
It's these type of connectors (elbow joint linked, also got a straight one to accumulator):
Shurflo elbow fitting

It's a Shurflo Trail King pump.

The barb connection to flexible hose is secure and watertight.

The screw on connection to pump is where I get the leak.

This is from the pump manual, stating no tape to be used and fitting design should provide a watertight seal, no mention of any washers/O-rings

View attachment 1077044

I'm starting to wonder if my hand tight is different from their hand tight, cranked it too far and knackered it.
They say they are tapered, so no washer or seal as you say.

Only things I can think of is.
You have over tightened it and caused damage failure.
Or
It isn’t tight enough.

Where do you go from here.
Either try a bit tighter - could do more damage
Get new fittings and try again - might be the same.

Assume you can’t see any damage

READ MORE INTO THIS.

Although the fittings say they are tapered the pump information doesn’t say it requires tapered fittings.

In my opinion you are trying to use tapered fittings, into a NON TAPERED fitting inside the pump.
 
Looking even more into it. It looks like it recommends the fittings you have, which are tapered.

I would still get rid of the tapered fittings and get a fitting that bottoms out, with a rubber sealing washer at the base.

Sorry can’t be more help. But just shoving something into something else, and hoping it stops water isn’t for me.
 
I had to cut the thumb nut a bit shorter as it was hitting the pump body before being tight so not sealing
 
I had to cut the thumb nut a bit shorter as it was hitting the pump body before being tight so not sealing
This may be something - it does seem to be as far on as it will go.

I'll try a spare first to see if overtightening has done some ill, if that makes no difference I'll hack one up a bit.

I do feel somewhat like Andy, in not having a rubber seal it does seem prone to failure.
 
Swapped some parts round and no leak so far. This might just be due to me taking the accumulator out of the equation temporarily so there's less pressure on it.
 
These taper fittings don't need tape or "o" rings, but they are rather flimsy so any tension on them caused by the attached hose angle or length will cause a leak I've found.

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Swapped some parts round and no leak so far. This might just be due to me taking the accumulator out of the equation temporarily so there's less pressure on it.
The accumulator doesn't affect pressure in the slightest.
The principle is simple.
Pump pressure pushes against a diaphragm which has air behind it at 1 bar usually.
As the pump cycles off the air behind the diaphragm continues to push water out of the accumulator then the pump begins and re-pressurises the diaphragm while also pushing water into the plumbing. And begin again maybe every second.
I reckon removing and refitting the fittings cured the problem.
 
Thanks for the info. I was assuming since it was pressurising the accumulator, that would be adding a little extra force. I stand corrected.

It's probably is down to swapping the fitting for another - I took the one from the accumulator outlet (which wasn't leaking, so I was guessing was a good one) and connected straight to the pump (replacing the bad one). I'm just working on a temporary solution for the weekend to get running water from a tap attached to the hose, I still need to fit the sink later. I guess the tolerance on these nuts isn't great so some are pulling the fittings tighter than others due to hitting the body as mentioned above.

Longer term I'll probably do as Andy suggested and swap them out for fittings with a rubber seal.
 
Thanks for the info. I was assuming since it was pressurising the accumulator, that would be adding a little extra force. I stand corrected.

It's probably is down to swapping the fitting for another - I took the one from the accumulator outlet (which wasn't leaking, so I was guessing was a good one) and connected straight to the pump (replacing the bad one). I'm just working on a temporary solution for the weekend to get running water from a tap attached to the hose, I still need to fit the sink later. I guess the tolerance on these nuts isn't great so some are pulling the fittings tighter than others due to hitting the body as mentioned above.

Longer term I'll probably do as Andy suggested and swap them out for fittings with a rubber seal.
If there is space, it might be better to put on straight connectors because, IMO, the elbow one , with road vibrations etc, are subject to more stress + how do you connect the filter if both sides are elbows? 🤔
 
The filter is connected directly to the pump.

So it goes...

Water tank > hose > straight connector > filter > pump > elbow connector > hose > straight connector > accumulator > elbow connector > hose > connect to tap.

I got the sink fitted since last posting, but even chopping nuts I've still got a slight leak in a joint or two. I ordered new connectors yesterday that will take a washer to seal instead of relying on the push fit of the Shurflo ones.

With the layout I've fitted and the way the hose runs, I put elbows in to reduce the stress rather than having the hose arcing round from them.

Regardless, copious plastic sheet around everything leading to a basin stopped me from getting flooded out for the few days I needed.
 

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