Oh PaulandChrissy what printer do you have and would you recommend it??
Show us your 3d printed bits! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Guigsy
- Start date
Excellent! looks like it took about two hours.
It may need a bit of fettling around the stadium shape as that locates into the main body but other than that it looks great.
What a great thread, surprised ive not saw it before.
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sallylillian
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Its like watching skateboarding in the Olympics, you just feel so inadequate and out of touch. Well I do.
Me too, I’m sat here now watching YouTube videos, I wasn’t aware of what can be created and the skills required 
it’s fascinating
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Great thread as others have said. I am amazed how quickly 3D printing seems to have taken off.
I would like to give it try but I am not very computer orientated and can’t realy justify the cost at the moment.
If I find something I need I will gladly pay for some one to print it for me.
I would like to give it try but I am not very computer orientated and can’t realy justify the cost at the moment.
If I find something I need I will gladly pay for some one to print it for me.
Hi
i have a Prusa Mini+ and a Prusa i3MK3s. I would recommend either of them. The Mini+ is half the price of the MK3s but still makes a nice job. The MK3s is £700 and definitely gives better results, but with fine tuning the cheaper machine gets very clowe. It does take time to master the machines, and the CAD design takes a bit if practice, as does everything on a computer. Morning Major did a cracking bit of design work.
PaulandChrissy
I didn’t expect it to look as close to the original as it does, thought it would just be similar but well impressed
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JockandRita
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I too have been reading this thread and really impressed with the items folk are able to design and produce.
I was in receipt last year, of an extended flue condensation diverter plate, from PaulandChrissy.
I was going to ask if anyone could make me one of these, an operating lever for a Qualcast Lawnmower which failed on me this morning however, a search on the internet found plenty available for about a fiver, including postage.
Keep showing us yer bits please.
Cheers,
Jock.
I was in receipt last year, of an extended flue condensation diverter plate, from PaulandChrissy.
I was going to ask if anyone could make me one of these, an operating lever for a Qualcast Lawnmower which failed on me this morning
however, a search on the internet found plenty available for about a fiver, including postage.Keep showing us yer bits please.
Cheers,
Jock.
If any of you 3D chaps are looking for decent panels for your projects it is worth considering using PCB's.
The cheap chinese producers can do accurate holes for mounting switches, sockets and other items alongside mounting holes.
The solder masks come in a variety of colours and the silk screen printing of the text is pretty decent quality.
Here is an example of what I mean.
This is the guy that gave me the idea.
The cheap chinese producers can do accurate holes for mounting switches, sockets and other items alongside mounting holes.
The solder masks come in a variety of colours and the silk screen printing of the text is pretty decent quality.
Here is an example of what I mean.
This is the guy that gave me the idea.
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Neat idea.
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I tried Fusion 360 as I thought I'd brush up on 3d design for a CNC router, I already do 3D printing and thought I had a decent handle on the design tools.
Recently I've settled on TinkerCad, an online system that lets me compose articles from simple shapes, cones, squares, you just drag and drop then size them. It also has a full library of interesting parts like screw threads, letters and such. I find it much easier than Fusion 360.
John
Recently I've settled on TinkerCad, an online system that lets me compose articles from simple shapes, cones, squares, you just drag and drop then size them. It also has a full library of interesting parts like screw threads, letters and such. I find it much easier than Fusion 360.
John
I use Solidworks or Catia as my design software and a Stratasys uPrint se plus for 3D printing
Its always a good idea to take a look on https://www.thingiverse.com/ for all those who enjoy 3D printing there's plenty of ideas there.
Paul
Its always a good idea to take a look on https://www.thingiverse.com/ for all those who enjoy 3D printing there's plenty of ideas there.
Paul
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OP
OP
Just a general comment about designing parts for 3d printing using the common FDM ('squirt melted plastic out of a nozzle') type home 3d printing.
FDM prints are built up in layers. This has two effects you have to consider:
1) You can't print on fresh air. When the piece is orientated on the print bed and you're half way through the print, you can't have big overhangs or the printer will be squirting the plastic into thin air. You'll just end up with a mess of droopy spaghetti. Lots of the 3d printer software 'slicers' will help you create sacrificial supports that you break off when the print is finished to support overhangs. But this takes longer to print, wastes plastic and often leaves an uneven finish where the support was attached.
2) The prints are strong along the layers, but the bond between layers is much weaker. Similar to grain in wood. So any part that has any load on it, you have to think about which way up you'll print it when you design it.
So 3d printers are great for replacing broken parts. But as mass produced plastic is normally moulded, they didn't have the same constraints when they designed it. So sometimes it can be better to redesign a part for 3d printing than make a straight copy.
FDM prints are built up in layers. This has two effects you have to consider:
1) You can't print on fresh air. When the piece is orientated on the print bed and you're half way through the print, you can't have big overhangs or the printer will be squirting the plastic into thin air. You'll just end up with a mess of droopy spaghetti. Lots of the 3d printer software 'slicers' will help you create sacrificial supports that you break off when the print is finished to support overhangs. But this takes longer to print, wastes plastic and often leaves an uneven finish where the support was attached.
2) The prints are strong along the layers, but the bond between layers is much weaker. Similar to grain in wood. So any part that has any load on it, you have to think about which way up you'll print it when you design it.
So 3d printers are great for replacing broken parts. But as mass produced plastic is normally moulded, they didn't have the same constraints when they designed it. So sometimes it can be better to redesign a part for 3d printing than make a straight copy.
That’s an excellent overview of FDM 3D printing and it’s limitations. Mass production is definitely its big limitation. Larger items take hours and even days to print.
It’s advantage, is printing unique low volume unobtainable items that can be redesigned to be stronger or better designed. Or one off items for unique application.
I personally overcome the printing into thin air problem by printing separate parts to the project that can be jointed together to make a better overall end result. Printing support is in my view a last resort, and should be avoided at all costs. With a bit of lateral thought you can come up with a very smart item.
That’s just my little bit of input if funsters can understand it.
Plus it’s just fun making special items that you probably just can’t find.
Stay Safe everyone. PaulandChrissy
It’s advantage, is printing unique low volume unobtainable items that can be redesigned to be stronger or better designed. Or one off items for unique application.
I personally overcome the printing into thin air problem by printing separate parts to the project that can be jointed together to make a better overall end result. Printing support is in my view a last resort, and should be avoided at all costs. With a bit of lateral thought you can come up with a very smart item.
That’s just my little bit of input if funsters can understand it.
Plus it’s just fun making special items that you probably just can’t find.
Stay Safe everyone. PaulandChrissy
OP
OP
What I didn't mention was that FDM 3d printing also has upsides. You can print fantastically complicated shapes that wouldn't be possible (or at least economical) to make using a moulding process. And unlike moulded plastics, you can make something that appears to be solid plastic without it being heavy or costing a fortune because the slicer software actually fills the void with a honeycomb, so it's nearly all air.
I've split parts only a couple of times. It's a pretty advanced technique! I've not come up with a consistent way of tightly joining stuff together again. My best efforts have been to put a hole through the whole lot and sandwich it together with a nut and bolt...
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I agree with you both, there are some limitations with FDM, other rapid prototyping technologies also have technical limitations when compared to production parts whether injection moulded, vacuum formed, extruded and so on.
When I design parts for FDM I always consider print direction. Holes printed parallel to the print bed will be far more accurate to ones being printed perpendicular to the bed. Printing in thin air can be challenging, As Paul mentioned careful consideration to the approach of printing can make all the difference. Also if the item is too big for the print envelope consider adding features such as clips or dove tails to form the final item. Of course this depends on how familiar you are with 3D CAD modelling and the software package you have.
I am fortunate to have access to a printer that has two heads, one prints the support material, the other ABS material. Once finished the support material is soluble and dissolves in a tank. I don’t have to worry about printing in thin air as the software just adds support material where needed.
As well as printing parts, I also design and print parts as fixtures/jigs to hold items that are difficult to hold whilst you need to perform another operation. For those who like to do their own van conversion a quick print of small jigs for repeatability of drilling holes or marking out can really help.
The beauty of printing you’re own parts/creations is if it works great. If not decide what’s gone wrong alter your design print another, it’s surprising the strength of a 2mm dia fillet in corners can achieve. It’s all good fun.
Cheers
Paul
When I design parts for FDM I always consider print direction. Holes printed parallel to the print bed will be far more accurate to ones being printed perpendicular to the bed. Printing in thin air can be challenging, As Paul mentioned careful consideration to the approach of printing can make all the difference. Also if the item is too big for the print envelope consider adding features such as clips or dove tails to form the final item. Of course this depends on how familiar you are with 3D CAD modelling and the software package you have.
I am fortunate to have access to a printer that has two heads, one prints the support material, the other ABS material. Once finished the support material is soluble and dissolves in a tank. I don’t have to worry about printing in thin air as the software just adds support material where needed.
As well as printing parts, I also design and print parts as fixtures/jigs to hold items that are difficult to hold whilst you need to perform another operation. For those who like to do their own van conversion a quick print of small jigs for repeatability of drilling holes or marking out can really help.
The beauty of printing you’re own parts/creations is if it works great. If not decide what’s gone wrong alter your design print another, it’s surprising the strength of a 2mm dia fillet in corners can achieve. It’s all good fun.
Cheers
Paul
RetiredPope
LIFE MEMBER
So true, has to be seen to be believed.
I saw one 3d printer video where they guy was doing something semi structural. He left recesses in the print which later came back and reinforced with fibre glass and epoxy resin.
He used to make moulds and do the entire thing with fibre glass and epoxy. But the 3d printer made it so much faster and then just a little bit of reinforcing. Looked really good.
If I have time later I will try and find the video.
He used to make moulds and do the entire thing with fibre glass and epoxy. But the 3d printer made it so much faster and then just a little bit of reinforcing. Looked really good.
If I have time later I will try and find the video.
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That’s interesting Gromett,
There’s many other uses, I know some of the F1 teams use 3D prints in soluble materials, they print the complex part, wrap in carbon fibre. Then dissolve printed material, useful for complex air ducts, manifolds etc. Kind of high tech lost wax casting.
There’s many other uses, I know some of the F1 teams use 3D prints in soluble materials, they print the complex part, wrap in carbon fibre. Then dissolve printed material, useful for complex air ducts, manifolds etc. Kind of high tech lost wax casting.
4 way gas cartridge holder with e-bike charger holders to the right of shot.
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I use nuts and bolt
s all the time to hold halves together. It has the advantage of being able to disassemble the whole thing without destroying it.
I don’t know how I lived without a 3D printer. I must be sad. But then most of us don’t know how we lived without a mobile.
For those of us who are fiddlers and like making things, a 3D printer is an essential tool.
PaulandChrissy
For those of us who are fiddlers and like making things, a 3D printer is an essential tool.
PaulandChrissy
John Barrett
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This is one 3D print which I suspect would be quite illegal!
Ebay, from China, £1.54!
Ebay, from China, £1.54!
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