Roof light leaking

[Peppadog]

The main, wind up roof light in my B654 is letting in water when parked level. It seems not to when water can run off freely. Should I clean it all up and re-seal in situ, or remove it and start from scratch?

 

[Eggs]

I've got a similar problem, I've bodged it with gaffer tape for now. If it ever stops raining in this part of East Anglia I'll get up there take it out and do it properly.

 

[Badknee]

I bit the bullet on our Autocruise Wentworth and took it off. Cleaned all the gunk off (it had gone hard and cracked) and bought some sealant on a roll to match the mounting lip on the roof light (35mm) and bedded it down. As I tightened the screws on the inside it pulled the frame down and squeezed the sealant out so I could see it was done properly.

 

[TerryL]

Temporary repairs are just that - temporary. If allowing a couple of days (it can take that if you run into difficulties) of good weather is a problem, a good clean up and reseal will work, I've done it.

But to do the job properly you need to remove the whole lot, clean off all the old sealant which has probably dried out and is the source of the problem, carefully inspect for damage (cracks etc) and repair if necessary. Then apply a good sealant (not adhesive type) ensuring it is all round and tightening the whole lot down again.

It's technically not a difficult job but must be done properly otherwise you're just wasting your time.

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

I removed all the roof lights on our Hymer when we first bought it because the sealant had hardened and cracked and was leaking on two roof lights. (It was 13 years old).
I used a flexible butyle tape (a bit like a black version of bluetac) after removing the roof lights by undoing all the screws and gradually easing them up. (The old sealant will give as you gently pry it up). Clean off the old sealant of which most can be pulled off the roof light and roof and then use petrol lighter fluid to remove the remnants, especially on the roof. This leaves it nice and clean for the new seal for which I applied a strip of to the roof and the roof light and then push together. Leave for a while on a hot day and gradually tighten the screws until it oozes out the sides. That was 5 years ago and we've had no problems since.
Dont be tempted to use Sikaflex because you'll never get the roof lights off in one piece again should you have a problem in the future.

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[Peppadog]

Thanks all. I will remove it in a period of dry weather

 

[Figaro]

I had similar recently when parked level, (B544) main roof light leaked in heavy rain and when I drove off gallons and gallons of water run off the roof.
I`ve since tried everything to replicate with a hosepipe and we also had some heavy rain, no leak whatsoever.
I`m going to leave it for now and see if it happens again

 

[Peppadog]

Yes Figaro. I have noticed the roof retains some water if level, a bit of which would come in the main roof light when I moved off, plus plenty over the van. This time, I knew the roof was closed properly so it has to be a failing seal.

If other Hymers are like mine, they adopt a slightly nose down appearance on the road. That lets any water run off. When levelled with my E&P jacks, water sits on it! Good seal or not. They need adjustment.

 

[mitzimad]

I did all three of mine in a few hours
My tips for the job
Mask the area around before you start
Get a sharp wallpaper stripper and thin sharp knife
A roll of blue paper towel
And a bottle of white spirits
You have to cut the mastic just pushing in under the flange doesnt work you need to slide it to slice
Work around and round till it will lift
Use white spirts to clean, its messy this is why you need it masked up

 

[SIFTA SAM]

I would check first that the raised lip around where the winding shaft comes through the roof is clear of debris and leaves.
If you do decide to remove and reseal the roof light, you may also consider removing and resealing the winding mechanism plate which tend to rust underneath as they are are not fully sealed around the roof.

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[Red Sonja]

We have just had the same problem. Whilst parked completely flat at Rutland Water. It hammered it down for 2 days and when we moved water gushed down. It had collected in the Groove where the blind sits. I have ordered a new seal which should arrive next week. We also cannot replicate the condition. Our van is parked on the drive on a slight slope.

Sonja

 

[DavidG58]

Same with my Hymer, I did a thread that I will try and find, but like you found that jf parked dead level (we have E&P jacks) it was soon after fitting those that we had the leak, first time we had heavy rain

when if put my hand out onto the roof, our roof light only open a few inches, not pivoted like some, I found half an inch of standing water around the skylight, the roof must be slightly concave

we had ours removed and resealed by a funster, the most generous and useful person we could have hoped to bump into Terry

 

[Terry]

Same with my Hymer, I did a thread that I will try and find, but like you found that jf parked dead level (we have E&P jacks) it was soon after fitting those that we had the leak, first time we had heavy rain

when if put my hand out onto the roof, our roof light only open a few inches, not pivoted like some, I found half an inch of standing water around the skylight, the roof must be slightly concave

we had ours removed and resealed by a funster, the most generous and useful person we could have hoped to bump into Terry

I kept out of this thread David simply because people are saying use my pet hate, Butal tape It is sh--e and eventually leeks all the time. IMO it is only used by manufacturers because it's clean to use, not for it's sealing capabilities. Years ago we used GP tube mastic which moved onto to Butal tape but in this day and age we have much better sealents and gluesOver the years I have removed hundreds of skylights stuck on with all sorts of stuff from mastics and Sikaflex type glues/ sealents -- never got stuck getting one off yet so all this crap about not being able to get them off once sealed with Sikaflex is just that CRAP and nonsense. I recommend sticking / sealing them with Puraflex 40, half price of Sikaflex and after 10 years plus never had one leak

 

[Figaro]

Peppadog

I investigated by leaky rooflight over the weekend, in between the showers.
I`m now convinced the seal to the main roof light is good, the problem in when the van is perfectly level and water pools on the roof.
I think the water is getting in down the winding shaft pointed out by SIFTA SAM above.
I have no knowledge of what type of seal is present on this shaft but I`m going to just live with it for now.
It`s not often the van is level anyway
You may have a different problem of course ?

 

[Peppadog]

Thanks again Figaro.
Interestingly, the water seems to be coming in on the winding handle side, so I will investigate that possibility first.

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[SIFTA SAM]

Thanks again Figaro.
Interestingly, the water seems to be coming in on the winding handle side, so I will investigate that possibility first.

I also fitted a short length of weather seal (Omni Gutter) strip across the roof just to the rear of the 'light' thus diverting an amount of rainwater around it.

 

[Benjii]

I have a B654 and my roof leaks when level, the water does pool around the handle mechanism, which is the only possible entry point. Since it’s underneath the Perspex dome I’ve built a volcano shape silicon dome around the shaft which works Higher than the pooling except with strong winds, and I park up slightly sloping if torrential rain is forecast. I.e. winter. replacing the whole unit because of an O ring seems ridiculous.

 

[Two Owl Ones]

The main, wind up roof light in my B654 is letting in water when parked level. It seems not to when water can run off freely. Should I clean it all up and re-seal in situ, or remove it and start from scratch?

I removed, cleaned and re-bedded a roof light and I used Hodgson's non-drying bedding sealant. This is a high performance Seamseal CV which was recommended to me.

https://hodgsonsealants.com/product-range/mastics/seamseal-cv

It is a versatile bedding sealant for a wide range of joints during caravan and motorhome construction. It doesn't form a skin, but the surface will become dry after a few days. This allows the sealant to accommodate movement without forming leak paths. It has excellent adhesion to coated metals and plastics and is designed for easy extrusion and tooling. Approx £6.99 per tube on Ebay.

It worked a treat for me and others that I know have used this. Hope this helps.

 

[Rapidoman 2011]

Just done mine, but you may still show signs of a leak for a week or two. I removed the skylight completely, cleaned all the existing silicones and mastics off, clean round roof edges with some white sprits on a cloth, clean all old material off skylight. To get a better seal remove the pins holding skylight so you can get a better seal all round the base. Using Silkaflix 221 ( 2 tubes) go round the skylight, press into position then pull down with fixings on the inside of van. When done back onto roof and seal all round with same stuff. Take your time and make sure everything is clean. Depending on how you roof is put together you may still show signs until it’s all dried out. My Rapido 9009 has a grp top layer with sheet aluminium under then blue styleafoam then hardboard ceiling. The water collects between the grp and aluminium sheeting and takes a good while to dry out. Tip, when skylight is out wipe towards opening to force water out. Don’t fit all the interior trim back until dry.

 

[TheAleMan]

The main, wind up roof light in my B654 is letting in water when parked level. It seems not to when water can run off freely. Should I clean it all up and re-seal in situ, or remove it and start from scratch?

I just had the same problem. I just did a thorough clean all round the skylight, big one in the kitchen area, and just re-sealed. This was 3 or 4 weeks ago now and jobs a good’n it appears. Had lots and lots of rain, and even washed the van incl roof since then, and not a drop had entered, and the area inside the light is now bone dry.

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[Catpirate]

Hi, had this problem sealing things, have used both Sikaflex and Puraflex 40 they both work fine (Sikaflex twice the price), never had a problem removing the old sealant, just needs patience and care not to damage the surrounding body work. You need enough to ensure a good seal and clean off any excess as soon as you can. Very satisfying when it works........., good luck

 

[Hotcrossman]

The main, wind up roof light in my B654 is letting in water when parked level. It seems not to when water can run off freely. Should I clean it all up and re-seal in situ, or remove it and start from scratch?

Had the same problem - used "Doctor Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure", for some reason just saying that sends Wifee into convulsions of laughter!
Works well, highly recommended, I always keep a bottle handy.

 

[gwyntaxi]

The main, wind up roof light in my B654 is letting in water when parked level. It seems not to when water can run off freely. Should I clean it all up and re-seal in situ, or remove it and start from scratch?

The best option is to take it out clean the surfaces new non-setting sealant, permanent job, seal in situ keep having to do it on regular basis do the job properly in first place, but I don’t know how difficult it will be to remove the wind up roof light on a Hymer.

 

[tonyidle]

Terry I've had only good experiences with butyl strip. I've taken rooflights off after 5 years (to replace with Heki) and the old sealant was as good as new where it was covered by the flange. It is the same as gun butyl but much easier to apply.

 

[Terry]

Terry I've had only good experiences with butyl strip. I've taken rooflights off after 5 years (to replace with Heki) and the old sealant was as good as new where it was covered by the flange. It is the same as gun butyl but much easier to apply.

All I can say is you are lucky, it could be down to what your roof and rooflights are made of, not sure, but I have changed and fitted new in the hundreds --- Ask yourself why so many new vans get leaks? There are also many that don't I don't think they all can be down to bad workmanship. It only needs a small gap for frost to keep freezing, melting and freezing opening up a leak As I said before it's only my opinion that I came to from experience

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[CazPaul]

I removed, cleaned and re-bedded a roof light and I used Hodgson's non-drying bedding sealant. This is a high performance Seamseal CV which was recommended to me.

https://hodgsonsealants.com/product-range/mastics/seamseal-cv

It is a versatile bedding sealant for a wide range of joints during caravan and motorhome construction. It doesn't form a skin, but the surface will become dry after a few days. This allows the sealant to accommodate movement without forming leak paths. It has excellent adhesion to coated metals and plastics and is designed for easy extrusion and tooling. Approx £6.99 per tube on Ebay.

It worked a treat for me and others that I know have used this. Hope this helps.

Yes exactly what I used earlier in the year to replace our roof light, used it for years good stuff but shouldn't be left/used in standing water.

 

[tonyidle]

All I can say is you are lucky, it could be down to what your roof and rooflights are made of, not sure, but I have changed and fitted new in the hundreds --- Ask yourself why so many new vans get leaks? There are also many that don't I don't think they all can be down to bad workmanship. It only needs a small gap for frost to keep freezing, melting and freezing opening up a leak As I said before it's only my opinion that I came to from experience

I don't know what is used when they're built. My last van (a Hymer) had a rooflight leak at 7/8 years old. Once the fixings were out it simply lifted off leaving a powdery black residue - I've no idea what that was. (IMO it was a rubbish contraption anyway - screwed to the roof with the lifting screw & trunnion out in the weather). I replaced it with a big Heki that as you know is clamp fitted. My current van is a 2012 Le Voyageur. The Heki 3 rooflight leaked yesterday. It's installed with black sealant that from the feel of the little I can touch from the inside after removing the inner frame is butyl. However it was installed by the converter with a kit for a 25mm roof. Mine is 55mm and every clamp was loose. So my point is that OEM isn't best practice and I've never seen them use strip mastic either. I certainly don't have your breadth of experience but I have resealed or replaced a number of rooflights and windows without any issue with strip mastic. It doesn't appear to age badly & sticks well to clean surfaces (I clean off the final remains of old mastic with petrol and a final wipe of washing alcohol).

 

[Terry]

No doubt different manufacturers use different sealents.Some are better than others I don't think any intensionaly build in leak's it just happens that some use tape because it's clean to use.
Each to Thier own

 

[Ringy]

Only had our 16 yr old MHome for 6 weeks.....very happy with it but when cleaning the roof saw that seal and round the roof light had gaps. No smell of damp.....took off the blind and internal frame and wished I hadn’t! Clearly a number of leaks but the water hasn’t dropped into the MHome but moved along and has soaked whatever’s just under the tin roof. I’ve taken the skylight out and removed all the old sealant. Have refitted it using Hodgsons sealant. Looks pretty good but time will tell. There’s a part of me that wants to take the ceiling down to see what’s up there - but maybe I should just let sleeping dogs lie for now. Anyone got experience of replacing what’s between the ceiling and the roof?

 

[Terry]

Hi there will only be insulation between roof and ceiling board. Probably Styrofoam or Polystyrene, that won't soak up water but the roof Barton's and 3mm ceiling board will. If you are confident it's not weakened the batons and the ply is not "pappy" then you may have caught it in time. Let it dry out and see
If not then it's all the internal roof out , replace rotten battens and roof board,a job avoided if possible. No doubt if that's the case you will be back for more advice

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