Oil Filled Rad? (1 Viewer)

[Stevewheel]

Hi Folks,
Been thinking about ways to keep the chill off the inside of the MH during the winter months if it's not being used (hope to be able to make some winter trips) as I have the luxury of it being able to sit on the drive with mains hook up. A MH'ing friend has suggested a small oil filled radiator on a timer set to come on for a short period during the coldest nights....says it has also prevented problems with his boiler too (not sure what he meant by that but I'm guessing he means preventing it from dumping the water...sound right?
Does anyone have any experience of doing what I describe? Is it even necessary? Does anyone carry any of these rads as a supplemental heat source for winter camping when on hookup? If so, any recommendations ...brands, kW's etc?

We have a Truma Combi 6 boiler so maybe I could just set that on low since I have the opportunity to use cheap rate hookup?
Sorry about the "multi question" approach but you have all been so helpful in the past I know someone is going to have the answers!
Many thanks in anticipation of your help.

 

[mikebeaches]

In the past we have used oil-filled electric radiators - in our previous coachbuilt - to keep the van heated when away in it. Worked extremely well. We had one rated at 600 watts and another rated at 1,000 watts, so we could use one or both dependent on electrical supply and how cold it was.

We generally drain down in winter and don't heat the van. Just put water in if we want to go away for a weekend or something, but it doesn't happen too often in the winter.

I'd advise against routinely using the Truma electric heating when the van is on the drive. Apparently, the electric elements don't last for ever and - subject to accessibility - can be very expensive to repair / replace! Also, you'll get some wear on the fan bearings too if you're running right through the winter. I guess there are folk who full-time who have it running all the time, but for my money, if you really want background heat while parked at home, I'd go the oil-filled radiator route.

 

[jockaneezer]

I had to use an oil filled radiator for a couple of months, checking on it every few days and it leaked onto the floor. Might be worth sitting it in a shallow tray or something if you decide to use one. Personally I don't heat my van over winter.

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[Head Gardener]

I do that in our caravan over winter (yes, I am a closet tugger as well as a PVC owner !!)

It put a few quid on the electric bill, but we often use the caravan as a spare room if more of husband’s family want to visit than we have room in the house for, so to us it is worth it. Our is a “ De'Longhi Bambino TRN0505M Oil Filled Radiator - 500 Watt” which came from Amazon but no longer available, but a newer model might be around.

 

[two]

Don't bother with a timer. It's a thermostat you need.
If you don't want to use the electric part of your Truma (which will work OK without water in the system), get a small greenhouse heater. They have a better frost control. The Truma may do a better job, though, because it will distribute warm air all around (use it on both elements).
I used to use the inbuilt (Alde) heater but decided against "heating the Sparrows". Just allow plenty of air circulation, instead, then bring it up to 'normal' temperature for a day while you get it ready for the next outing and cool the fridge. I take it off EHU in-between outings because I'm not convinced that it's a good thing to be keeping the batteries endlessly on float.

 

[Donkster]

I just drain down everything and let it go cold with ventilation it's always been fine for me.

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[Stevewheel]

Many thanks @mikebeaches, @jockaneezer,@Head Gardener, @rogher & @Donkster lots of very good suggestions here that I shall try to distill into a course of action that suits. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

 

[Larrynwin]

I have used oil filled rads in my mohomes for years with the stat low and always have a vent just open and a rodent bait trap outside as they love a warm place for winter.

 

[RedFrame]

I just drain down everything and let it go cold with ventilation it's always been fine for me.

There's a lot of mentions of ventilation... What should you open/how much?

Cheers
Bannock, Chris and Red.

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[two]

Over winter, try and let the air flow, especially around the corners. Open all cupboards and lift cushions. Rather than clamp everything down, leave a roof vent slightly ajar (but not enough to let rain splash in). I don't think you can have too much air. If safe to do so, you could put a couple of opposing windows on the 'first latch'. Dry the fridge and freezer and wedge the doors open.
If damp can collect, that's where you might get mildew. You don't have to do as above but it will reduce the chance of damp/condensation on colder surfaces. Remove sources of damp, like towels or water in a kettle. And remove any food that may invite rodents. None of these problems are certain, but can happen. It's a matter of how much you want to prevent them. Remember to close the external openings when you come to put the heating on.

 

[Darcar]

Use your van more!
Or
we leave the eh in and have a dehumidifier in the van, this gives a little heat and keeps it dry.
Darcar

 

[Rob and Val]

A cereal dish filled with salt and placed on the floor of the 'van will draw moisture from the atmosphere. It's surprising how much water collects in the dish, so remember to check it regularly.

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[Donkster]

The reason you will need to vent and lift any cushions is during winter any sun on the windows causes the motorhome to heat up then later a sudden drop in temperature makes condensation where theirs warmth.

Question if you leave any portable heaters in over winter if there’s a fire would the insurance company try to worm out of any claim ?

 

[Bobby22]

Why would you want to heat you van when you are not using it?There are loads of motorhomes in dealer's compounds that don't get heated and they don't get ruined.

If you are not going to use your van over winter then drain it down. If the temperature drops below 3 degrees some vans drop the water from the boiler as a safety mechanism. Even if i was using my van in winter i would drain down if it was to be parked up for a few days.

Read about winterising your van for best practice. Heating your van will only let the air hold more moisture which will condense on the coldest surfaces when it gets a chance.

My garden shed and garage don't get any problems in winter and i don't heat them.

 

[Silver-Fox]

Out of interest then does anyone use their silver screens when winterising their van?
Or just pull the consatina privacy blinds across?

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[two]

I wouldn't recommend leaving a blind in its stretched position because it may reduce the spring tension. Use curtains, if there are any. It's a good idea to keep them drawn and away from cold spots (more important on boats) to air.

 

[The Old Man]

A cereal dish filled with salt and placed on the floor of the 'van will draw moisture from the atmosphere. It's surprising how much water collects in the dish, so remember to check it regularly.

A good tip.

My mum has a static caravan and when she closes it down for the winter she puts a bucket containing salt in every room and two in the lounge dining area, they soak up a lot of moisture.

Also on those dry, sunny and windy days we go to it and open all the doors and windows for a few hours.

With my MoHo I use it often in the winter so I do not worry too much but on similar days I will take it out for a long drive, engine heater on full blast, front windows open to blow air through.

 

[Richard n Ann]

I put an oil filled radiator in for the first couple of weeks when we get back to help dry any moisture out. Then it stays cold and ventilated for the rest of the winter.

With the radiators, consider the amount of fins and size rather than wattage, they all get to the same temperature and switch off, it's just that the lower wattage ones take a bit longer to heat up.