More like a mobile swimming pool.

Joined
Feb 13, 2021
Posts
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Location
Newport Pagnell
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79,207
MH
Buccaneer Commodore
Exp
Since 2018.
I have learned after we bought the motorhome that Buccaneer motorhomes were very expensive when new. I have seen 3 others on the road and 2 in Facebook. So not all that popular.
All seemed ok with it until looking at it September when getting ready to take for an MoT. Noticed that a roof panel at the rear appeared to have bowed slightly downwards with a very small stain on the vinyl on the join.
Post photos later.
Decided it was a project in the New Year.
Come January I decided to investigate the panel further, it seemed to be spongy and moved quite easily. I thought 'go for it' and ripped the vinyl from the panel and discovered absolutely rotten and waterlogged timber, the polystyrene was wet but not holding water.
The vinyl is wrapped all around the panel so water had got in but could not get out or dry out
Get my head round what I had found. Apart from this bowing there was nothing to give any indication of what lay in the roof. No damp smell at all.
Previously I had found water coming out by the side of the skylight and traced that to a loose connection and poor seal around the the Truma gas fire vent, Fixed that problem, looked at the skylight, although wood was wet, did manage to dry it out.
Thinks, this wet panel needs further investigation, take down the cupboards on the sides and the rear. Take more vinyl off roof panels, timber just as wet or rotten.
Have a look at the driver side rear wall, start pulling at the the vinyl wall covering, I think it was held in place by the cupboards because it came off very easily and revealed rotten and delaminated plywood.
The rear wall was as bad as the side wall. Hadn't started on the passenger side wall yet.
Well the plywood peels off like paper leaving all support battens soaking wet and rotten. The batten along the top of the wall is rotten because again this wrapped in vinyl and water has got in. This is where the title comes from, I have had water running down my arms removing ceiling battens.
Have a look at the passenger side wall, pull off a bit of vinyl to reveal the back corner plywood rotten and a lot of water stain with the top few inches rotten. Again the top of the wall batten is rotten.
The vinyl has played a major part in the destruction of the plywood walls but appears to have protected the floor, that seems solid with no discernable movement.
I have read the posts with regard to the repair of a motorhome and find them very interesting but I will be along with some questions of my own. I was going to do this project in a barn/workshop but that became unavailable.
I need my motorhome on the road for when we are allowed to start travelling again so taking advantage of lockdown to get on with the project outside my house, unfortunately out in the open.
With the removal of most of the ceiling and one sidewall, would I be better putting a temporary batten across walls?
The next job is to remove the toilet/shower cubicle to check on the state of the roof and wall as well as the horizontal wall battens.
Amongst the many tips that have been provided and I am thankful for are a reciprocating multitool (Lidl special, a couple of weeks ago) and the extending panel supports from Screwfix.
I will add some photos later (as soon as I can get them off my phone. Back up and sync aren't bringing them onto laptop).
Thankyou to every one who has posted on other restorations and takes the time to read this post.
Any hints, tips and suggestions truly welcome. My wife has already suggested 5 litres of petrol and a match.
 
I am sorry to hear of your plight but I am not able to answer your questions although from what I have read previously about water ingress I believe it is not a good idea to remove too much structural work in one go.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will respond, good luck and :welcome4:
 
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You got yourself a rather large task on there.

i think you need to plan carefully how you are going to attack this and at all times ensure some sort of support whenever you remove more than just a panel.

i think you need to set about finding the sources as there sounds to be more than 1 and fixing them before setting about more stripping and subsequent rebuilding.

one piece at a time.

good luck and i hope it come together for you.
 
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Still can't find photos on my phone but found a way round. Here are 3 photos of the very start of this project.

20210117_122417.jpg
20210117_122351 (1).jpg
20210117_122414.jpg
 
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Sorry to hear about your problems, I had a Lunar caravan that had more water in it than the garden pond, that's why I would never buy a British motorhome.

Your wife is a very sensible person, I would take her advice. :LOL:

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Sorry to hear about your problems, I had a Lunar caravan that had more water in it than the garden pond, that's why I would never buy a British motorhome.

Your wife is a very sensible person, I would take her advice. :LOL:
That's the problem, it was too well built. The roof panels are wrapped in vinyl, the plywood walls are covered in vinyl. So water, damp or condensation has travelled behind the vinyl but could not dry out or escape.
 
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:welcome4: Take no notice of the silly remarks about petrol etc.

All you need is one of these... it will stop the roof sagging any more..

Then you can practice your Pole dancing skills... (y)


1614028846437.png
 
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sorry you didn't ask first. taking too much out in one go takes away the structural strength of the body. Stop pulling things out and address the leaks first outside. Then tackle 1 or 2m squared at a time, putting the strength back in. bracing temporarily with lengths of 2x2 with plywood spreading the load might be a good idea as you rebuild
 
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I really feel for you--- we had a fifth wheel (5er) and I noticed where the rubbish bin had been screwed to the floor in a slide out the floor was very soggy--'--I finished up replacing most of two sides of the slide out and the floor!!
Then we got a big American demountable camper----- I kept chasing leaks----- the timber frame in these things rots so fast it's really quite amazing!!!
(I think you might have established this??!!)
The camper didn't stand us at a lot of money and we did a massive amount of travelling in it---- I pranged a corner------ in the end I dismantled it and used a load of it towards our off grid home in Portugal--------- all this is of no help to you of course but at least you know you are not alone with your problem-------
You have to stop the water coming in--------- I have spent the last couple of months doing just that with our new ( to us) motorhome------- the saving grace for us is a complete fibreglass body--- I will let the soggy ceiling boards dry out!!!
Good luck and try to tackle a little bit at a time!!

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:welcome4: Take no notice of the silly remarks about petrol etc.

All you need is one of these... it will stop the roof sagging any more..

Then you can practice your Pole dancing skills... (y)


View attachment 468200
Hi, thanks for your advice. On another thread the pole is mentioned. I bought 2 from a local Screwfix £19.99 each. Good but can't be abused.
 
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sorry you didn't ask first. taking too much out in one go takes away the structural strength of the body. Stop pulling things out and address the leaks first outside. Then tackle 1 or 2m squared at a time, putting the strength back in. bracing temporarily with lengths of 2x2 with plywood spreading the load might be a good idea as you rebuild
That has always been at the back of my mind about taking the furniture out. I need to replace the battens on top of the walls, 4.2 metres long. They are completely rotten. I think the leak was a poorly fitted and sealed gas fire chimney from nearly new. This allowed water to run behind the vinyl, and spread everywhere. I need to remove the bathroom cubicle to see and assess the rest of the water damage. Probably need another couple of roof props to help out.
 
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Now coming to the start of rebuilding, the polystyrene is 25mm thick but it looks like all wood battens are in imperial sizes. I do have a table saw, would it be best to buy planks of wood and then cut down to appropriate sizes?
 
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I use as close as possible sized kiln dried/seasoned wood, ripped down to size. You will probably know that ripping planks down to size will work, but they may twist after being fitted. It is possible to use some tanilised timber but this can cause staining. Also it needs to be fully dry
 
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Thanks for your reply. After talking with a roofer and then google, tanalised wood cannot be used against bare aluminium, electrloytic corrosion. All my long wall battens are wood glued onto bare aluminium infilled with polystyrene. Maybe replace polystyrene with Celotex where I have had to take polystyrene out, otherwise leave it in?

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I use as close as possible sized kiln dried/seasoned wood, ripped down to size. You will probably know that ripping planks down to size will work, but they may twist after being fitted. It is possible to use some tanilised timber but this can cause staining. Also it needs to be fully dry
Why do they have to make insulation 25mm thick and wood battens 2 or 3mm smaller?
 
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maybe they shrunk in the wash.... SORRY !

stick at it steady and support the structure as I and John have said . support the structure and then fix the leeks. then your on your way.
There's another set of questions. Remove the source of the leak, the gas fire chimney. Replace the fire with a diesel heater. How do I go about filling the hole in the roof so it doesn't leak?
 
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There's another set of questions. Remove the source of the leak, the gas fire chimney. Replace the fire with a diesel heater. How do I go about filling the hole in the roof so it doesn't leak?
I think you said the roof is alloy.

In which case it will need a cover patch either sikaflex sealed or the mastik tape they use on the sky lights then sikaflex around the edges.
The patch needs then to be alloy painted before putting it in place.

Unless someone has a better idea
 
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Why do they have to make insulation 25mm thick and wood battens 2 or 3mm smaller?
the rough sawn is 25mm 1" in old money, then put through the planer for PAR and you get 18mm. Sawn is fine in this situation

Your roofer is right for green tanalised and bare aluminium, but not brown tanalised as it does not contain copper. Some manufacturers use painted both sides aluminium sheet, others not and then you also get polyester sheet or grp. No fixed answer to suit all. Treated timber will of course last longer than raw softwood

Reuse whatever insulation is still ok to use or replace with 25mm urethane sheet, celotex/kingspan etc, then fill voids with spray urethane foam as it will bond to the wood and the wall material, holding the other insulation in tight

When you reboard with lightweight ply wallboard, use the 2 part adhesive in batches. This will put the structural strength back in
 
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the rough sawn is 25mm 1" in old money, then put through the planer for PAR and you get 18mm. Sawn is fine in this situation

Your roofer is right for green tanalised and bare aluminium, but not brown tanalised as it does not contain copper. Some manufacturers use painted both sides aluminium sheet, others not and then you also get polyester sheet or grp. No fixed answer to suit all. Treated timber will of course last longer than raw softwood

Reuse whatever insulation is still ok to use or replace with 25mm urethane sheet, celotex/kingspan etc, then fill voids with spray urethane foam as it will bond to the wood and the wall material, holding the other insulation in tight

When you reboard with lightweight ply wallboard, use the 2 part adhesive in batches. This will put the structural strength back in
At the moment the roof panel comprises, in layers; roof, butyl tape, plywood, insulation and battens, aluminium, and plywood covered in foam backed vinyl.
Thanks for info about sawn timber.
What about painting 1st layer plywood in polyurethane paint?
The horizontal battens, ideally replaced in a continuous piece. It will have to be done in 2 pieces, can it be joined using a biscuit and Gorilla glue?
Thanks for your help and patience.
 
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What about painting 1st layer plywood in polyurethane paint? The plywood needs to breathe or you trap moisture in the wall
The horizontal battens, ideally replaced in a continuous piece. It will have to be done in 2 pieces, can it be joined using a biscuit and Gorilla glue? Yes or a scarfe joint, but I always add an extra batten to brace the joint and cut down the insulation
Thanks for your help and patience. Happy to help
 
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Hi,sounds like one I bought and did about 15 years ago. I bought it knowing it was wet thinking I could simply seal the roof then take all the inside out and replace everything. Only paid 6 k for it thinking bargain 😳 Paid about 3k too much 😁 Ended up replaced all the roof both inside and out 👍Replaced all battens and inner walls, surprisingly floor was good👍😁 I used 4x 2 tanalised wood ripped down to 1and one eighth by 2 inch to acomadate insulation then stuck 3 mm ply onto that. Ended up having to replace all electrics because water had got into that lot as well 😳 This was found out after we had finished and tried to use the van ....none of the electrics worked,all looked good but! Ended up costing me around 2 k in parts and I used it for a year then sold it for £12500.
Took two of us 3 week's work.
Good luck 👍
 
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