Masonary bits

[ShiftZZ]

Always had problems using them, I suspect it's the quality of the bit, any suggestions of a make?

 

[ElliesBoss]

What problem are you having exactly?

 

[MichaelT]

I think it depends how much you use them, if you are in a trade using them all day every day then I think diamond tipped ones are best but I bought some DeWalt ones from Toolstation and for my occasional use and for what I have done they have ben fine, small holes and larger ones up to 10mm.

 

[Mikeco]

It’s not always the bits that are the problem, the inner skin of my bungalow is solid and very hard brick, my normal Ryobi decent size hammer drill is no good but if I bring out the really heavy duty one which I bought from B & Q a few years ago it only takes a few seconds to drill a hole.

 

[ShiftZZ]

The problem is that I hit something hard and northing will shift it, then the hole gets bigger..

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[SM0129]

I always use an SDS drill and bit and I generally do not have issues with that (it was a cheapy Aldi drill as well)

 

[andy63]

It’s not always the bits that are the problem, the inner skin of my bungalow is solid and very hard brick, my normal Ryobi decent size hammer drill is no good but if I bring out the really heavy duty one which I bought from B & Q a few years ago it only takes a few seconds to drill a hole.

Second that.. its the drill that's the important bit..
If I've got a lot of brickwork to drill it's the old de Walt sds rotary hammer gets an airing..
Andy

 

[jongood]

The problem is that I hit something hard and northing will shift it, then the hole gets bigger..

SDS every time, different experience, even the crappier bits last longer - except the Chinese ones of course.

 

[ElliesBoss]

In terms of occasional use I've found B&Q or similar masonry drills more than adequate for most domestic jobs if you have a half decent percussion drill. The only time I ever get stopped is if I hit a wall tie or similar. Obviously for concrete or ceramic tiles you need the relevant drills.

 

[Richard n Ann]

My Bosch 110v SDS makes light work of engineering bricks, concrete or anything else I've come across. Not as noisy as the cam type hammers either

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[63720]

Slightly off topic and I don't know the circumstances but chemical fixings with a threaded bar then fix with a washer and nut can be effective sometimes.

 

[Beryl]

I find they wander less if you drill with a smaller diameter first - you also find any hidden obstructions before you've made a meteor crater in your wall.

 

[jongood]

Slightly off topic and I don't know the circumstances but chemical fixings with a threaded bar then fix with a washer and nut can be effective sometimes.

Agreed but you still need a hole

 

[63720]

Agreed but you still need a hole

Agreed, agreed. I have used chem fixing and didn't need such a deep hole as anticipated and it fixes without exerting outward pressure. Not suitable in all situations though.

 

[ShiftZZ]

I'm tempted to 'stick' the piece of wood onto the wall and then add the curtain rail...

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[stevewagner]

I'm tempted to 'stick' the piece of wood onto the wall and then add the curtain rail...

Sounds like you have it the lintel. If it’s concrete a decent SDS bit and drill will do it. If it’s steel forget it.

 

[St3v3]

These.

Bosch Expert Hex Shank Multi-Material Drill Bits 5 Piece Set - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Highly versatile drill bits which can drill accurately into hard materials such as tile and granite without skidding due to its sharp tip, advanced geometric design and bosch centring geometry. Made from optimised carbide it can also tackle concrete, brick, wood and...

www.screwfix.com

In soft brick, you don't even need to use hammer. They drill ceramic tiles really easily too. They don't wander and again, no hammer required.

I've been using them daily for years for work.

 

[Gellyneck]

or here https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-multi-construction-tct-drill-bit-set/p51204

 

[pappajohn]

I'm tempted to 'stick' the piece of wood onto the wall and then add the curtain rail...

Got you now Dave....your drilling either a steel lintel (RSJ) or a re-enforced concrete lintel....most likely re-enforced concrete
RSJs are generally faced with plasterboard on wooden noggins hammered into the void of the H section. You soon know if it's an RSJ
Re-enforced concrete just need a slow, even pressure on the drill and not too fast.

 

[DuxDeluxe]

The problem is that I hit something hard and northing will shift it, then the hole gets bigger..

I have a similar issue. I suspect that the only way is a good heavy duty hammer drill

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[cmcardle75]

Always had problems using them, I suspect it's the quality of the bit, any suggestions of a make?

It must be SDS in a decent mains drill. Life's too short to use old school masonry bits in a standard drill, whoever made them.

 

[pappajohn]

ceramic tiles you need the relevant drills.

Never used anything but masonry bits with the hammer turned off.
Very light pressure and slow speed until through the glaze then you can speed up. Once through the tile put hammer on and drill as normal
Haven't cracked a tile yet

 

[mitzimad]

its the macine that makes the diffence sds punches through virtually any thing ive got a pre litium bosch sitting here thats good enough for occasional work only one battery but it held a charge when i last used it yours if you want to pay poatage

 

[Gellyneck]

Never used anything but masonry bits with the hammer turned off.
Very light pressure and slow speed until through the glaze then you can speed up. Once through the tile put hammer on and drill as normal
Haven't cracked a tile yet

and a bit of tape over the hole position to help stop the drill skittering.

 

[two]

SDS is for 'regular hole-drillers'.
You could compromise with a hammer drill.

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[RandallC]

The problem is that I hit something hard and northing will shift it, then the hole gets bigger..

A lot depends on the quality of your Hammer drill!

However when that happens (as soon as lack of progress evident) select a much smaller drill (1/8) and see how that copes . once you have a pilot hole generally sorts the issue.

 

[Themselves]

I always used Hilti sds drill bits. Never failed.

 

[2657]

The inner course of most houses are made from common bricks, seconds, which are quite often from the outside of the kiln and over cooked, and contain bits that are like glass virtually impenetrable.

 

[cmcardle75]

The inner course of most houses are made from common bricks, seconds, which are quite often from the outside of the kiln and over cooked, and contain bits that are like glass virtually impenetrable.

I would think most houses with cavity walls actually have concrete block inner courses (either dense or aerated), both of which are usually much easier to drill than any brick. However, an SDS drill will make light work of any masonry at all (assuming you're not trying to drill steel reinforcement). Standard non-SDS masonry bits struggle with butter when it drops below 21C.

 

[MattR]

Pointing out the obvious but it is sometimes overlooked; many drills start working well enough but are ruined by overheating.

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