Late Ducato 2.8 JTD

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steve 6644

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Hi, any advice as to what to look out for on say a 2003 to 2006 van with say under 40,000 on the clock. I have a max budget of 25K and am having a long hard look for the right van, I had two vans on the 2.8. and loved em, I just wonder how those late base vehicles have aged and what typically gets knackered on them.

Its the build quality of that era I am after and am looking to replace my last 2005 Autotrail Cheyene, fantastic van.

Cheers
 
Not sure such a low mileage is a good thing, must have been standing a long time.
 
Make sure timing belt is changed and pulleys .I have a 2004 2.8 Not had any problems with it.I did find that the top of the wheel arches didn't have a lot of protection .I put extra underseal on mine when New.Not had any problems with rust .I think there's plenty of good ones out there. Just look out for abused ones.In my opinion if the habitation side of the van is good then usually they have looked after the mechanics too.
 
steve 6644 said:
Hi, any advice as to what to look out for on say a 2003 to 2006 van with say under 40,000 on the clock. I have a max budget of 25K and am having a long hard look for the right van, I had two vans on the 2.8. and loved em, I just wonder how those late base vehicles have aged and what typically gets knackered on them.

Its the build quality of that era I am after and am looking to replace my last 2005 Autotrail Cheyene, fantastic van.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I agree with your thoughts about the 2.8jtd and the build quality of that era.

We have a N&B Arto 69GL(2003) and it is out first MH(bought 2009 for £27,500) so I do not know much about other builds. The quality of ours is still showing little sign of deterioration - few plastic bits, one tap micro-switch and one garage hinge is all I have had to replace on the hab side.

An identical Arto(2004) just sold privately for exactly £25K - buyer told me what he paid. So I reckon ours would be about the same, but not selling, so your budget would find something like that privately. I cannot remember the mileage on that one but it was somewhere around the same as ours at 50,000 miles.

I think the low mileage comment might only apply if the MH has done high mileage in a short time and then sat for months. Ours has been steady over the lifetime(which can be checked from MOT records). The reason is we move most days but do not go far each day.

Obviously you know the 2.8jtd, so know about cam belt, tensioner and water-pump. Other than that i have only spent money on consumables, and an oil pressure transmitter - in 10 years.

I think you will find good quality and that engine within your budget. Good Luck.

Geoff

[P.S. Of course if you did find a N&B of that era they would be one of the few makes then that were using double-aluminium sandwich as the structure, without any timber, so damp is almost impossible, plus the 2.8jtd - as my first MH I have since realised how lucky I was]
 
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Just sold our 2003 2.8jtd. Advisories were that rear discs were rusty but not dangerous and exhaust was rusty but not leaking, but we replaced them anyway. Cills were also replaced on each side but apart from that it was pretty solid.

So i am assuming if you concentrate on the usual suspects, tyres, brakes and exhaust and check for rust on cills and underneath then youre almost there.

Other rhan checking the habitation side of course for damp, gas leaks etc

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Sumps and front crossmember go very rusty, need checking.
We had a 2004 hymer , regret selling it.
 
Common rust areas are:
Front radiator support crossmember
Osf chassis leg where the rad crossmember mounts
Front inner wheel arches near the brake pipe to hose mountings
Top of inner front wheel arches
Osf flitch to strut top mounting box (under/behind battery)
Rear of front wheel arches/front of doorstep
Front jacking points and outriggers
Underneath both front doorsteps
Chassis sections at rear of front subframe mountings
Chassis crossmember to the rear of the chassis can rust at their ends.

D.
 
Cheers for that Dave. I am looking at a 2003/4 next week that has taken my eye. I have had the garage that do all this dealers vehicles (so not an in house mechanic) run his eye over it and he says everything looks to be in surprisingly good condition corrosion wise but has suggested it would be a good idea to apply a new underseal, which I agree with. Sounds like a genuine nice guy with no nonsense honesty who knows his stuff.

It's done about 1000/1500 miles per year for the last 7/8 years so very low mileage in that period and has done 34000 overall. It is a one owner from new mint looking cracker from the pictures. I have asked for a quote for a full service, cambelt change and fix anything that is on the way out that they spot

Fingers crossed it is as good as it looks upon inspection and I shall be the new owner of what looks to be a well loved and looked after van of a great vintage.

Anyone recommend a decent cheapish damp meter?
 
dave newell lvs said:
Common rust areas are:
Front radiator support crossmember
Osf chassis leg where the rad crossmember mounts
Front inner wheel arches near the brake pipe to hose mountings
Top of inner front wheel arches
Osf flitch to strut top mounting box (under/behind battery)
Rear of front wheel arches/front of doorstep
Front jacking points and outriggers
Underneath both front doorsteps
Chassis sections at rear of front subframe mountings
Chassis crossmember to the rear of the chassis can rust at their ends.

D.
Click to expand...

Dave

Useful, based on your knowledge.

I think I can sort out which apply only to 'A' Class and not to original cabs, but I am not sure.

So could you please confirm which apply only to 'A' Class please.

Geoff
 
nicholsong said:
Dave

Useful, based on your knowledge.

I think I can sort out which apply only to 'A' Class and not to original cabs, but I am not sure.

So could you please confirm which apply only to 'A' Class please.

Geoff
Click to expand...

They all apply to both std cab and a class alike.

D.
 

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