Jump starter, which one?

PhilMary

PhilMary

Joined
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Location
Earby, Lancashire, UK
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started Oct. 2016
I had to borrow a Portable Power 12v jump starter yesterday as the motorhome wouldn't start. Connected up, wait 20 secs, started first turn of the key.
So, I'm thinking maybe I should get one of these magic boxes.
The question is what would the assembly recommend?
Thanks in anticipation.
Phil
 
Agree with Stealaway - why was the battery flat? A jump charger will just encourage you to keep using it and letting a battery go flat will quickly kill it. Need to sort that out first then you shouldn't need a jumper.

In my experience you'd need a top quality, read expensive, device. A basic car one won't cut the mustard.
 
The motorhome has been stood since November without a run out due to hospital duties. The only thing connected, I think,will be the engine electronics and the alarm. I wasn't surprised it was flat, just that it is the first time.
Phil
 
Not surprising should never leave them without a charge for more than 3 or 4 weeks. Leaving it that long will have shortened the life of the battery.
Money would be better spent on a solar panel to keep both hab and starter battery topped up.

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Lenny HB said:
Not surprising should never leave them without a charge for more than 3 or 4 weeks. Leaving it that long will have shortened the life of the battery.
Money would be better spent on a solar panel to keep both hab and starter battery topped up.
Click to expand...
It already has solar and that keeps the hab side nicely charged but I guess it doesn't charge the starter battery.
Phil
 
What you need then is a Battery Master, keeps the engine battery topped up from the habitation battery. Much cheaper than jump starter.
 
TerryL is spot on! Dont waste money on something you dont need! Buy into what is required rather than a temporary fix.
Battery master B2B or solar switch from habitation to cab . Job done.

Kev
 
TerryL said:
What you need then is a Battery Master, keeps the engine battery topped up from the habitation battery. Much cheaper than jump starter.
Click to expand...
Thanks all. Can you link or recommending some reading or specs on Battery Masters?
Phil
edit.. just found some info on vanbitz site. I'll have a read.
Phil
 
Ok, next question. Why can I not use a small battery charger to charge the starter battery which in in the cab under the flooring. I could plug the trickle charger into the cigarette socket on the dashboard.
Phil

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The fact you are looking at trickle chargers indicates an onboard charging system fault surely?
Does the charger system you not have...do the job? If not....replace the charger . Your avatar states a c class? Which one?

kev
 
best getting an mppt controller that will charge dual battery if you have a solar. I got one never looked back I can go out anytime and everything fires up. mind I do go out and turn habitation lights on and the radio just to drain the batteries a bit
 
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PhilMary said:
Thanks all. Can you link or recommending some reading or specs on Battery Masters?
Phil
edit.. just found some info on vanbitz site. I'll have a read.
Phil
Click to expand...
If you buy a Vanbitz Battery Master through the MH Fun shop, you get a discount.
 
PhilMary said:
Ok, next question. Why can I not use a small battery charger to charge the starter battery which in in the cab under the flooring. I could plug the trickle charger into the cigarette socket on the dashboard.
Phil
Click to expand...
In theory, apart from the hassle of connecting/disconnecting, no problem. As long as the dashboard socket isn't ignition controlled which, unless it's been modified (a simple enough job) is more or less standard practice.

Like all these things my philosophy is the KISS principle. Don't try and overthink your problem. Battery master is a cheap and simple solution - only 3 wires to connect, none of them heavy.

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Kev and Carolyn said:
The fact you are looking at trickle chargers indicates an onboard charging system fault surely?
Does the charger system you not have...do the job? If not....replace the charger . Your avatar states a c class? Which one?

kev
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help Kev and Carolyn .The issue is the starter battery was flat, the hab battery is ok.
I now know that leaving the motorhome standing, no drives, for a couple of months would allow the starter battery to drain.
I will have a closer look at the solar controller to see if it's the same type as Stealaway pointed too.
Thanks again all for the help.
Phil
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Following on from the above. I have had a closer look at the solar controller, EPolar EPIPDB-10A and I can that the hab battery is connected to bat1 terminals but nothing connected to the bat2 terminals. So, I think I should look at connecting two wires from the bat2 terminals to the starter battery.
Two questions, what size of wire to use and I have the choice of sealed, flooded and gel battery. I am sure it's not a gel battery so only two choices.
Your thoughts and comments?
IMG_20200226_141225.jpg

Phil

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There's the answer to your problem. Not a leccie but cables same gauge as on Batt 1 should be okay.
Just seems a little odd that it wasn't connected when it was installed.
 
TerryL said:
Just seems a little odd that it wasn't connected when it was installed.
Click to expand...

Probably a lot more time and effort to get the wires to the starter battery.
I think the largest wires that will fit into the connectors will be 4mm
 
The type of battery should be set for the habitation battery.
On that controller you can set the percentages to the batteries normally best set to 90% hab battery, 10% starter battery. It will only be a trickle charge into the starter battery 2.5mm sq cables will be fine.
 
Thanks guys. I have been grovelling under the van as I think the cables will have to run under the door step, but after that there is space under the seats all the way to the passenger seat and the battery which i'm told, is in the floor under the passengers feet.
Phil
 
Jump start from the hab batteries. Did this when my cab battery was duff.
Cue all the “OMG NO” posts.........

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You probably already know this but if you are going to wire your engine battery in make sure you put an inline fuse in to be on the safe side.
 
Thanks Andycap I did remember the fuse bit, but it's always good to be reminded as I know sometimes other Funsters watch threads that could solve a problem they have so it's worth pointing out.
Phil
 
An update.
I had the starter battery tested today it read 12.6v and 520amp?
The battery is marked as 680amp so I'm thinking it may be on it's way South?
I will look to wiring the solar charger using "bat 2" terminals and set it to 90/10% so as to tickle charge the starter battery in the future.
Should I splash out and buy a new battery at £120?
 
How old is the battery? Although those readings show it's past it's best if it holds a charge IMO there's some life left in it and if you get the trickle sorted that's got to help.
I'd be inclined to hold off replacing the battery for now and see what happens. If it shows any signs of failing though then change it.
 
I'm going to change the starter battery as I can't afford for it not to start whilst on some snowy cold mountain after my bike ride. However, I'm going to rig up the "bat 2" connections from the solar panel controller and try it out on the old battery. I can discharged the old battery using a 12v heater and watch it trickle charge up again.
So, win win. I get a bit of extra warmth whilst I experiment. Although I do need a bit of sunshine/bright sky. So off to the shop tomorrow for cable, fuse and holder, crimp terminals etc.
Phil

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