Hot water pipe forced off Truma Combi 6E

[WoldsSunlight]

Just arrived this afternoon on a nice CL in Norfolk, set up, including putting boiler on to HIGH (as I have done many times before.) Water has been heating for approx. 2 hours when I hear a dull 'pop' followed by the sound of running water. Go outside, van has lots of water dripping from n/s sill, near to boiler. The water is warm, so clearly coming from boiler. Lift the bench seat, and behold, the pipe (circled in blue in the photo) has popped off the connection, and water is running INSIDE the bench seat compartment that houses the boiler. Pushed it back on, but loathe to put hot water back on (switched off after event.) At no time did the PRV/drain valve open, so I exercised it open, checked water was draining from underneath the van, then closed it again, including resetting push button.
Before setting off from home, I topped up my water tank, and it overflowed for about 10-15 seconds before I could turn the water off. (I use the modified hozelock connector/cap that allows you to fill it hands free.) I noticed a small dripping from the n/s sill then, but assumed it was just the water from the overflow migrating from the rear o/s and dripping. I stopped twice en-route, and no further dripping was observed.
Any ideas out there? Anybody else experienced similar? I'm tempted to swap the clip on the hose that popped off for a jubilee clip, and just tighten it up, but clearly there is some pressure/overpressure issue going on here.

 

[Lenny HB]

Those clips are normally better than jubilee clips. The one in the photo is not fitted properly any that could be your problem. The entire clip needs to be at least 2mm down from the end of the pipe to clamp properly.

 

[WoldsSunlight]

Those clips are normally better than jubilee clips. The one in the photo is not fitted properly any that could be your problem. The entire clip needs to be at least 2mm down from the end of the pipe to clamp properly.

I've got a Leatherman, so I'll refit it properly as you suggest.
Am I correct in thinking that the other clear pipe from the T-piece above the pipe that came off vents overboard? It disappears under the compartment and is sealed with mastic. If correct, why wouldn't the water pressure take the other path and dump overboard, rather than pop the pipe off, or have I just been unlucky in that the pipe wasn't connected properly in the first place?

 

[gus-lopez]

What Lenny said. Clip needs to go down so both rings are clamping

 

[Lenny HB]

The clear pipe allows air out when the boiler is filling, if water comes out the valve in the T piece is faulty.
I think it just the pipe connection that wasn't on properly.

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[WoldsSunlight]

OK, thanks for the quick answers. I was contemplating draining it all down tomorrow, as the CL has got full facilities, and I didn't fancy it popping off again in the middle of the night, but I'll re-seat the clip and hopefully that should sort it. Thanks again

 

[WoldsSunlight]

Opened the drain/PRV valve to dump the pressure, took off pipe, checked no cracks/breaks on plastic T-piece, reseated pipe with clip adjusted as shown in photo, reset drain/PRV valve, and switched hot water back on. Bled both taps (sink and bathroom) - so far so good....fingers crossed.

 

[WoldsSunlight]

.....spoke too soon! There's a steady drip from somewhere, either the hose clip isn't working properly, or it's coming from the outlet from the boiler. Pressure dumped and boiler off.... I'll call the dealership tomorrow.

 

[Lenny HB]

Did you cut the hose back so the clip had a clean even surface to grip on?

 

[WoldsSunlight]

Did you cut the hose back so the clip had a clean even surface to grip on?

No I didn't, and there doesn't seem to be much spare in the hose length either to facilitate that. Is there any way of tightening the clip pressure?

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[Lenny HB]

Can't really tighten the clip.

 

[pappajohn]

If you have a hair drier onboard you could take the pipe off again, give it a good go with the hair drier to soften it, quickly replace it while still hot and put the clip back on.
Soft plastic will form a new seal.
Nothing to lose.

 

[slowcoach65]

I had a similar problem. The same connector failed for me. I removed the factory fitted clip, cut the hose (as the end had hardened and was no longer flexible) and used a standard jubilee clip. I then noticed a similar but smaller bore hose leaking at the bottom of the heater but access wouldn't permit me to do the same so I just put a jubilee clip in addition to the original and that sorted the issue. Whilst I was there I noticed the earth cable had disconnected so redid that!

 

[WoldsSunlight]

Can't really tighten the clip.

Is the outlet from the boiler to the T-piece a push fit? There appears to be a bit of 'float' on it, and when it's furthest away from the boiler, there's some red paint showing on the pipe?

 

[slowcoach65]

Is the outlet from the boiler to the T-piece a push fit? There appears to be a bit of 'float' on it, and when it's furthest away from the boiler, there's some red paint showing on the pipe?

It is a push fit - you have to pull the inner red piece into the outer white piece to remove but simply push to click to refit.

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[WoldsSunlight]

So, one trip to B&Q, a pack of 2 jubilee clips, and Robert's your Mother's Brother! The pipe was plenty flexible and not hardened, (van is only 3 months old....) - The clip originally fitted wasn't up to the job (too weak,) and/or incorrectly fitted.
10 minutes work, including replenishing the water, recommissioning the boiler, and bleeding the air out of the system and it's all go! Thanks to all who offered advice and solutions.

 

[Mr and Mrs O]

You just can't beat a good old fashion jubilee clip!
Note to self keep some in spare box!!