Folding Solar (2 Viewers)

Jan 21, 2014
32
128
Middle-Of-Nowhere, Scotland
Funster No
29,788
MH
Tardis-Too
Honestly, I got it at half price and I know that there are Funsters who are far more experienced than me who will put me straight so I will keep it. It was bought as a back up to the 160Ah flexible roof panel and I do have a 300AH panel to go on the roof when The existing one dies.
Redundancy is the best policy 😉😉😉
Hi,
First of all, it's important for you to note that the "Ah" figures you stated as quoted above SHOULD actually be "W(atts)" for Solar Panels, and if you accidentally mix them up then any calculations using the "Ah" base would be meaningless.

Moving on to the Amazon Folding Panel you're querying, it's hard to give precise responses as the Listing Details & photos are quite vague ..... but here are my "best guesses" at hopefully useful info & observations :-

1) = I suspect the stated "30A Anderson Connector" is going to be the one you need to use to connect to either your existing Solar Controller ..OR.. direct to your 12v Batteries VIA a separate Controller ..... HOPEFULLY, the kit they supplied will include something like an "Anderson -TO- MC4-cable" adaptor (which many of these kits do have) ..... That would greatly simplify connecting this Panel to your existeng setup as you can then use standard MC-4 type extension cables for whatever length you need, but IF not supplied you would need to make or buy an adaptor (or similar).

2) = IIRC, Some posts have asked if your Folding Panel Kit could be connected directly to the batteries ..... Answer == Hell NO!! .... The voltage would be in excess of 20 volts and would fry/kill the batteries (and probably damage MANY other Vehicle electrical components or ECUs) ..... It should ONLY be connected to the vehicle batteries via either a seperate or your existing controller in order to bring the Charging Voltage down to the circa 12-14 Volt range.

3) - IF connecting to your existing Solasr Controller, you will need to ensure that it's AMP-Rating is high enough to handle BOTH your existing "160-Watt" roof Panel AND this new "200-Watt" panel (AND IDEALLY, your potential "Extra 300-Watt" roof-upgrade that you mentioned) ..... You should ALSO try to ensure that BOTH the 160 and the 200 Watt Panels are very close to each other in terms of "Open Circuit Voltage", namely 24-Volt(ish) as stated for the 200-Watt and (? PROBABLY/HOPEFULLY ?) the same for your existing 160-Watt (as 24-V OC is fairly standardish), because a LARGEish mis-match will work BUT will drag down the combined efficiency.
....... ASSUMING you have/use an MPPT controller, your existing 160-Watt panel could produce a max of around 12 AMPS, and the 200-Watt panel could produce a max of around 15-16 AMPS, so your controller would need to be able to handle a Combined-Load of around 28 AMPS in "Ideal" conditions, and I personally would suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth.

4) = IF you opt for a separate controller for the new panel, you would need a circa 20 Amp controller, BUT I personally would STILL suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth (namely your potential future Extra 300 Watt Roof-Panel Upgrade).

5) = In either case, it would be easy to wire a pair of short MC-4 tails to the Panel-Input of whatever controller you use (with the Controller-Output permanently wired to the Battteries as per your existing setup), and then the Portable Panel can easily & quickly be plugged on-the-fly into those tails from the MC-4 Panel-Cables as I mentioned in point-1 above.

Hope this helps, Cheers, Bob.

P,S, == Additional Edit ===

6) = I forgot to include that IF you opt to use a separate controller .... Ensure that it is connected to the Battery BEFORE you connect the Panel to the controller ..... As many controllers will FRY if Panels are connected without being hooked up to a battery.
 
Last edited:
Jun 20, 2023
138
56
Funster No
96,807
MH
planning one…
Hi,
First of all, it's important for you to note that the "Ah" figures you stated as quoted above SHOULD actually be "W(atts)" for Solar Panels, and if you accidentally mix them up then any calculations using the "Ah" base would be meaningless.

Moving on to the Amazon Folding Panel you're querying, it's hard to give precise responses as the Listing Details & photos are quite vague ..... but here are my "best guesses" at hopefully useful info & observations :-

1) = I suspect the stated "30A Anderson Connector" is going to be the one you need to use to connect to either your existing Solar Controller ..OR.. direct to your 12v Batteries VIA a separate Controller ..... HOPEFULLY, the kit they supplied will include something like an "Anderson -TO- MC4-cable" adaptor (which many of these kits do have) ..... That would greatly simplify connecting this Panel to your existeng setup as you can then use standard MC-4 type extension cables for whatever length you need, but IF not supplied you would need to make or buy an adaptor (or similar).

2) = IIRC, Some posts have asked if your Folding Panel Kit could be connected directly to the batteries ..... Answer == Hell NO!! .... The voltage would be in excess of 20 volts and would fry/kill the batteries (and probably damage MANY other Vehicle electrical components or ECUs) ..... It should ONLY be connected to the vehicle batteries via either a seperate or your existing controller in order to bring the Charging Voltage down to the circa 12-14 Volt range.

3) - IF connecting to your existing Solasr Controller, you will need to ensure that it's AMP-Rating is high enough to handle BOTH your existing "160-Watt" roof Panel AND this new "200-Watt" panel (AND IDEALLY, your potential "Extra 300-Watt" roof-upgrade that you mentioned) ..... You should ALSO try to ensure that BOTH the 160 and the 200 Watt Panels are very close to each other in terms of "Open Circuit Voltage", namely 24-Volt(ish) as stated for the 200-Watt and (? PROBABLY/HOPEFULLY ?) the same for your existing 160-Watt (as 24-V OC is fairly standardish), because a LARGEish mis-match will work BUT will drag down the combined efficiency.
....... ASSUMING you have/use an MPPT controller, your existing 160-Watt panel could produce a max of around 12 AMPS, and the 200-Watt panel could produce a max of around 15-16 AMPS, so your controller would need to be able to handle a Combined-Load of around 28 AMPS in "Ideal" conditions, and I personally would suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth.

4) = IF you opt for a separate controller for the new panel, you would need a circa 20 Amp controller, BUT I personally would STILL suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth (namely your potential future Extra 300 Watt Roof-Panel Upgrade).

5) = In either case, it would be easy to wire a pair of short MC-4 tails to the Panel-Input of whatever controller you use (with the Controller-Output permanently wired to the Battteries as per your existing setup), and then the Portable Panel can easily & quickly be plugged on-the-fly into those tails from the MC-4 Panel-Cables as I mentioned in point-1 above.

Hope this helps, Cheers, Bob.

P,S, == Additional Edit ===

6) = I forgot to include that IF you opt to use a separate controller .... Ensure that it is connected to the Battery BEFORE you connect the Panel to the controller ..... As many controllers will FRY if Panels are connected without being hooked up to a battery.
 
Jun 20, 2023
138
56
Funster No
96,807
MH
planning one…
This makes a lot of sense, for the uninitiated, could someone help explain the difference/advantages of different connectors, eg anderson v mc4, and which are best to use to connect a panel such as this to an mppt controller.

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OP
OP
Otter Spotter
Oct 9, 2019
4,960
17,311
Todmorden
Funster No
65,104
MH
Van conversion
Exp
FUNSTER in a PVC
Hi,
First of all, it's important for you to note that the "Ah" figures you stated as quoted above SHOULD actually be "W(atts)" for Solar Panels, and if you accidentally mix them up then any calculations using the "Ah" base would be meaningless.

Moving on to the Amazon Folding Panel you're querying, it's hard to give precise responses as the Listing Details & photos are quite vague ..... but here are my "best guesses" at hopefully useful info & observations :-

1) = I suspect the stated "30A Anderson Connector" is going to be the one you need to use to connect to either your existing Solar Controller ..OR.. direct to your 12v Batteries VIA a separate Controller ..... HOPEFULLY, the kit they supplied will include something like an "Anderson -TO- MC4-cable" adaptor (which many of these kits do have) ..... That would greatly simplify connecting this Panel to your existeng setup as you can then use standard MC-4 type extension cables for whatever length you need, but IF not supplied you would need to make or buy an adaptor (or similar).

2) = IIRC, Some posts have asked if your Folding Panel Kit could be connected directly to the batteries ..... Answer == Hell NO!! .... The voltage would be in excess of 20 volts and would fry/kill the batteries (and probably damage MANY other Vehicle electrical components or ECUs) ..... It should ONLY be connected to the vehicle batteries via either a seperate or your existing controller in order to bring the Charging Voltage down to the circa 12-14 Volt range.

3) - IF connecting to your existing Solasr Controller, you will need to ensure that it's AMP-Rating is high enough to handle BOTH your existing "160-Watt" roof Panel AND this new "200-Watt" panel (AND IDEALLY, your potential "Extra 300-Watt" roof-upgrade that you mentioned) ..... You should ALSO try to ensure that BOTH the 160 and the 200 Watt Panels are very close to each other in terms of "Open Circuit Voltage", namely 24-Volt(ish) as stated for the 200-Watt and (? PROBABLY/HOPEFULLY ?) the same for your existing 160-Watt (as 24-V OC is fairly standardish), because a LARGEish mis-match will work BUT will drag down the combined efficiency.
....... ASSUMING you have/use an MPPT controller, your existing 160-Watt panel could produce a max of around 12 AMPS, and the 200-Watt panel could produce a max of around 15-16 AMPS, so your controller would need to be able to handle a Combined-Load of around 28 AMPS in "Ideal" conditions, and I personally would suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth.

4) = IF you opt for a separate controller for the new panel, you would need a circa 20 Amp controller, BUT I personally would STILL suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth (namely your potential future Extra 300 Watt Roof-Panel Upgrade).

5) = In either case, it would be easy to wire a pair of short MC-4 tails to the Panel-Input of whatever controller you use (with the Controller-Output permanently wired to the Battteries as per your existing setup), and then the Portable Panel can easily & quickly be plugged on-the-fly into those tails from the MC-4 Panel-Cables as I mentioned in point-1 above.

Hope this helps, Cheers, Bob.

P,S, == Additional Edit ===

6) = I forgot to include that IF you opt to use a separate controller .... Ensure that it is connected to the Battery BEFORE you connect the Panel to the controller ..... As many controllers will FRY if Panels are connected without being hooked up to a battery.
Thanks for a very comprehensive response 👍🏻👍🏻 current controller is a Victron 30amp but I was tentatively thinking that I would have another Victron controller permanently wired to batteries but with a switch between them so I could connect the new 200AH panel when conditions permit. The 300AH panel would replace not supplement the existing 160AH.
 

Two on Tour

LIFE MEMBER
Sep 16, 2016
10,329
51,033
Near the junction of the A14 and A1, Cambs
Funster No
45,145
MH
Elddis Autoquest 175
Exp
Since 2010
Thanks for a very comprehensive response 👍🏻👍🏻 current controller is a Victron 30amp but I was tentatively thinking that I would have another Victron controller permanently wired to batteries but with a switch between them so I could connect the new 200AH panel when conditions permit. The 300AH panel would replace not supplement the existing 160AH.

This is exactly the setup I have for my existing 200 watt folding panel.
I switch on my Victron 100/20 solar charge controller and then plug in my 10 metre cable to the XT60 connector just inside an external locker and aim my folding panel at the sun. (y)
 
OP
OP
Otter Spotter
Oct 9, 2019
4,960
17,311
Todmorden
Funster No
65,104
MH
Van conversion
Exp
FUNSTER in a PVC
This is exactly the setup I have for my existing 200 watt folding panel.
I switch on my Victron 100/20 solar charge controller and then plug in my 10 metre cable to the XT60 connector just inside an external locker and aim my folding panel at the sun. (y)
See, I am learning something new 👏👏
Great minds think alike 🤓🤓

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Sep 3, 2012
7,556
26,083
Cheshire
Funster No
22,759
MH
C Class Elddis 175
Exp
8+ years
It looks as their marketing ploy in letting me have it at half price worked then!
The initial blurb advised it was a 5amp panel as was your original description which I thought was a bit low for a 200w panel but the data sheet supplied indicates its higher.
I saw one in Benidorm that was strung up on the end of an awning using guy ropes to angle it out. It was producing 9 amps in full sun. So was impressed by that. I was using a spare 100w rigid panel that just fits in our wardrobe but is clumsy to use. ( removing it to outside and restoring it back into the wardrobe)This will be a lot better.
Thanks for the heads up.(y)

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Last edited:
OP
OP
Otter Spotter
Oct 9, 2019
4,960
17,311
Todmorden
Funster No
65,104
MH
Van conversion
Exp
FUNSTER in a PVC
The initial blurb advised it was a 5amp panel as was your original description which I thought was a bit low for a 200w panel but the data sheet supplied indicates its higher.
I saw one in Benidorm that was strung up on the end of an awning using guy ropes to angle it out. It was producing 9 amps in full sun. So was impressed by that. I was using a spare 100w rigid panel that just fits in our wardrobe but is clumsy to use. ( removing it to outside and restoring it back into the wardrobe)This will be a lot better.
Thanks for the heads up.(y)
You are most welcome 👍🏻
 

Langtoftlad

LIFE MEMBER
Apr 12, 2011
8,861
151,001
Langtoft, South Lincs
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16,024
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WildAx Aurora FB [PVC]
Exp
Since 2015
For a while now I have had a folding luggable 150w panel with an integrated PWM controller, cheap & cheerful...
I have this attached to my LA leisure batteries
1461711655_13975900.png

and simply plug in the panel.
Not sophisticated but it works.

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Jan 2, 2024
405
504
Lincolnshire, UK
Funster No
100,498
MH
Peugeot boxer
Exp
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Hadn't noticed till now the Dokio one comes with what appears to be two folding, freestanding stands,

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Jan 2, 2024
405
504
Lincolnshire, UK
Funster No
100,498
MH
Peugeot boxer
Exp
2020
The new one has 3 fold out stands fitted to the back of the panels
Just going on the photos in the eBay listing,but regardless for anyone with a limited budget and just wanting plug and play looks to be a good route.
I personally, having looked at all the options went with a pair of rigid panels and some stainless steel hinges..with a second mppt
controller built in to the van... total cost circa £175...Mainly because I had the perfect size and shape storage place for them ,giving me 400w (rigid) on roof 220w folding.And I could do it all without help from others...not everyone can do it or get hands on help,some no doubt just don't want the hassle.
As a side note to the buying to put in screen for over winter battery maintenance ,take into account physical size of what you're buying
 

Two on Tour

LIFE MEMBER
Sep 16, 2016
10,329
51,033
Near the junction of the A14 and A1, Cambs
Funster No
45,145
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Exp
Since 2010
Thanks for a very comprehensive response 👍🏻👍🏻 current controller is a Victron 30amp but I was tentatively thinking that I would have another Victron controller permanently wired to batteries but with a switch between them so I could connect the new 200AH panel when conditions permit. The 300AH panel would replace not supplement the existing 160AH.

Okay Dave the folding panels have arrived, and I have done a quick test and as it's trying to rain here.

I fired up my Victron solar controller for my existing folding panels, plugged in my cable to the new panels via the XT60 connector and here's what we have with no mods to the panels, no removing of bits off the panels, just plug it in and it works. ;) :giggle:
Think what you could get out of the panels with a broken sky and a bit of sun. (y)

As a note, on the fuzzy display, the panels on the roof of our van are "Main" 250 watts and the "Flexi" is 180 watts.

1711720734686.png


1711720754479.png


1711720767040.png


1711720782778.png


1711720797379.png
 
Last edited:

MichaelT

LIFE MEMBER
Nov 12, 2015
3,033
5,502
Colchester
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40,159
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Dethleffs Esprit I7150 EB
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Since 2016
For a while now I have had a folding luggable 150w panel with an integrated PWM controller, cheap & cheerful...
I have this attached to my LA leisure batteries
1461711655_13975900.png

and simply plug in the panel.
Not sophisticated but it works.
What is that?
 
OP
OP
Otter Spotter
Oct 9, 2019
4,960
17,311
Todmorden
Funster No
65,104
MH
Van conversion
Exp
FUNSTER in a PVC
Okay Dave the folding panels have arrived, and I have done a quick test and as it's trying to rain here.

I fired up my Victron solar controller for my existing folding panels, plugged in my cable to the new panels via the XT60 connector and here's what we have with no mods to the panels, no removing of bits off the panels, just plug it in and it works. ;) :giggle:
Think what you could get out of the panels with a broken sky and a bit of sun. (y)

As a note, on the fuzzy display, the panels on the roof of our van are "Main" 250 watts and the "Flexi" is 180 watts.

View attachment 880760

View attachment 880761

View attachment 880762

View attachment 880763

View attachment 880764
That’s good isn’t it ?
I just charged up a pair of headphones and a kindle using a usb lead saved myself a fortune, well 10p 😁😁😁😁
 
Jan 21, 2014
32
128
Middle-Of-Nowhere, Scotland
Funster No
29,788
MH
Tardis-Too
Thanks for a very comprehensive response 👍🏻👍🏻 current controller is a Victron 30amp but I was tentatively thinking that I would have another Victron controller permanently wired to batteries but with a switch between them so I could connect the new 200AH panel when conditions permit. The 300AH panel would replace not supplement the existing 160AH.

As per my original post .if you re-read it ... It would probably NOT be wise to put a switch between the Controller Output and the battery as :-

... (A) As per Point-6 of my previous post. it could potentially FRY the controller if you FORGET to turn the switch on BEFORE you connect/plug-in the Panels to the Input === as MANY controllers need to be connected to the battery FIRST in order to function properly AND to know what Charging-Voltage (12 / 24 / 48 / etc) to supply to the battery bank(s).

... and (B) it is unneccessary as Controllers are inherently designed to be able to be left permananently connected to the battery even when there is NO INPUT from any panels (such as pitch-black nights / eclipses / tunnels / a flock of Dragons nesting on the panels :cool: ;) / etc ) .... Add a FUSE into the Live Input-Cable for protection by all means == But NOT an Output-Sswitch.

Lastly, further to the first paragraph of my last post and with my tongue firmly embedded in (one or t'other) of my cheeks ... I am fascinated by your 160 AMP-HOUR (Ah) & 200 AMP-HOUR (Ah) & 300 AMP-HOUR (Ah) Solar PANELS >> Could you kindly let me know where I can get some of those High AMP-HOUR Solar Panels at a cheap price ?
..... Can you also get some 160 or 200 or 300 WATT (W) Batteries to connect those Panels to ? ;) :giggle: :LOL:

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Last edited:
Sep 3, 2012
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That’s good isn’t it ?
I just charged up a pair of headphones and a kindle using a usb lead saved myself a fortune, well 10p 😁😁😁😁
Just recieved mine. Checked it out and all seems to be working ok. Had to order some xt60 connections so I can plug into my spare mppt wiring .
I was going to attach some webbing straps around the hinged parts and attach slide on kador brackets to hang it from my awning with a couple of guy ropes to angle it to the sun.
But I need to know where the sun is when I park up(y):LOL:

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jumar

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Nov 6, 2012
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Just recieved mine. Checked it out and all seems to be working ok. Had to order some xt60 connections so I can plug into my spare mppt wiring .
I was going to attach some webbing straps around the hinged parts and attach slide on kador brackets to hang it from my awning with a couple of guy ropes to angle it to the sun.
But I need to know where the sun is when I park up(y):LOL:
I find the windscreen to be the perfect location for my folding panel....is yours a little long to do this?
 
Sep 3, 2012
7,556
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Cheshire
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C Class Elddis 175
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8+ years
I find the windscreen to be the perfect location for my folding panel....is yours a little long to do this?
Yes it's about 2.4 mtrs.
Lee Fryer had one strung on his open awning and angled out with guy ropes and he was getting some good amps. Dont think he bought any site electric.He was running a small compressor fridge to keep his beer cool.
Mind you our bill was only 11 euros for 79 days so not too bad and that was with using an airfryer and microwave occasionally.(y)
 

Kannon Fodda

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Just acquired one of these 200W NGTeco Folding Solar Panels, as the OPs post. With the half price code off Amazon, even if it doesn't achieve the full power rating, it seemed a cost effective addition, given I can't get more than my 150W panel on the roof, and I do have a habit of beating up my 120Ah lithium (can't fit any more in) what with my e-bike, laptop and stuff.

Panel seems reasonably robust. The cloth mesh framing onto which the probably flexible solar panels are glued seems quite robust. It will at best be weather resistant rather than waterproof. The outlet on the back has the USB connectors, or a single 14AWG about 3m length cable leading to a moulded splitter that goes to 16AWG short cables to the XT60 male, 30A Anderson or a couple of other pin type plugs. There is also a short 16AWG further extension of with the female XT60 connector that offers alternative pin type plugs. No doubt those pin things would fit various "solar" power packs.

The reduction from 14awg to 16awg wire gauge is unfortunate as that will increase resistance in the wire. I will need to add a much longer extension lead so will perhaps have some voltage drop issues. They might be limited, and as this is a top off device for me, perhaps not really a concern, but it would have been nice if I could have maintained 14awg continuously, without having to start cutting up the factory moulded wiring.

There is no solar controller included with this folding panel. I'll run it through a second Victron 75/15MPPT, prices for those seem to have become quite affordable, around £44 off the rainforest. So with the added cost of making up an extension lead I'll achieve this overall for less than £175.

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