EP levelling system - advice please (1 Viewer)

[funflair]

That's what I meant Martin, going up as in the vehicle, always get that wrong way. So can't see how previous post can manually lower chassis until level.
Have had my front wheels quite high off ground and it can look a bit alarming (as well as higher to step up) have wondered in extreme cases to run up ramps and the put blocks down to level jacks.
My rear air when fitted had on the invoice in capital letters to LOWER FIRST BEFORE DEPLOYING JACKS, but no mention about quickly inflating whilst jacks retracting as has been mentioned. I would have thought it would just be if air and jacks working in conjunction as some have.

If you just leave a bit of air in the air bags I can't see any reason to inflate them in a hurry when the jacks are retracting, as far as I know the only reason they say to re inflate is to stop the bag getting nipped as the suspension loads up, it's a bit like putting a touch of air in a bike inner tube when you are putting the tyre back on.

Martin

 

[tacr2man]

Putting blocks down or using level ramps wont have any effect as its the chassis that gets levelled It still has to get to same position
The blocks if suitable size will spread footprint load .
Inflating air bags before or during jack retraction wont really make any difference, in any scenario I can think of.

 

[funflair]

Putting blocks down or using level ramps wont have any effect as its the chassis that gets levelled It still has to get to same position
The blocks if suitable size will spread footprint load .
Inflating air bags before or during jack retraction wont really make any difference, in any scenario I can think of.

I think the poster is trying to minimise the daylight under the wheels in extreme levelling situations so running up ramps first and then blocks under the Jack pads to get the extreme height they require would work. Not saying it's necessary and I wouldn't bother but they might be happier.

Martin

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Rapphil]

I think the poster is trying to minimise the daylight under the wheels in extreme levelling situations so running up ramps first and then blocks under the Jack pads to get the extreme height they require would work. Not saying it's necessary and I wouldn't bother but they might be happier.

Martin

That is the idea just to stop the wheels dangling in mid air, probably as you say unnecessary but always an option.
I do keep at least 0.5 bar in air bags when deploying jacks.
Thanks.

 

[TerryDunlea]

Forgetting all the Technicalities , it will always be better if all tyres are in contact with the ground , this is fully achievable using the method I suggested previously . As a further note I have noticed vehicles that are Al-Ko based have a tendency to ‘ creep ‘ while on jacks , thus distorting the jacks from vertical , hope this is helpful ?

 

[TerryDunlea]

You are of course correct , it is beneficial to maintain a slight pressure in the air bags , 0.5 Bar is adequate .

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Rapphil]

Forgetting all the Technicalities , it will always be better if all tyres are in contact with the ground , this is fully achievable using the method I suggested previously . As a further note I have noticed vehicles that are Al-Ko based have a tendency to ‘ creep ‘ while on jacks , thus distorting the jacks from vertical , hope this is helpful ?

Not wishing to labour a point @TE but how do you 'lower until the chassis is level 'without starting procedure again.?

 

[TerryDunlea]

This is going to depend on the Make and Model of Your levelling system . I am assuming that the system is capable of operating the jacks fully automatically or manually , ie singly or in pairs . If not it is still possible to level as per My previous post , but will take considerably more time , hope this is helpful ?

 

[Hellski]

@Hellski Pictures of the pump would be helpful?

I’ll get some tomorrow

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Rapphil]

This is going to depend on the Make and Model of Your levelling system . I am assuming that the system is capable of operating the jacks fully automatically or manually , ie singly or in pairs . If not it is still possible to level as per My previous post , but will take considerably more time , hope this is helpful ?

As far as I know , but stand to be corrected EP's work in pairs and only manually to be deployed , would be brilliant if you could lower (sorry raise the jacks) a bit at a time. Do you know of a make that you can do up and down bit by bit manually?

 

[Steve and Denise]

Our EP jacks only have a Manual facility on lifting,on retracting we have no control they all retract at the same time.
On lifting in auto or manual they will only come down in pairs to stop body twisting.

 

[funflair]

This is going to depend on the Make and Model of Your levelling system . I am assuming that the system is capable of operating the jacks fully automatically or manually , ie singly or in pairs . If not it is still possible to level as per My previous post , but will take considerably more time , hope this is helpful ?

Hi Terry

What system do you have? I don't know any decent 4 corner system that will operate the Jack singly, likewise "retract would normally be all jacks raising at the same time.

Martin

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Southdowners]

Forgetting all the Technicalities , it will always be better if all tyres are in contact with the ground , this is fully achievable using the method I suggested previously . As a further note I have noticed vehicles that are Al-Ko based have a tendency to ‘ creep ‘ while on jacks , thus distorting the jacks from vertical , hope this is helpful ?

Can you explain why it is better to have the tyres in contact with the ground please?

Has anyone here experienced the 'creep' problem.

We assume that the jacks are designed to be able to take the full weight of the vehicle in any levelling situation. Is this correct? Obviously we use spreader pads on soft ground, but other than that the system can be relied on.... can't it?

 

[G7UXG]

Has anyone here experienced the 'creep' problem.

Mine is an ALKO chassis and when the jacks are withdrawn, as the rear suspension takes the load again it does creep forwards a couple of inches.

When my E&P system was fitted at S.A.P. They told me that would happen and is a quirk of the ALKO suspension.

Doesn’t cause a problem... just don’t park with the front end too close to an obstruction.

Obviously doesn’t creep when the jacks are deployed and locked in position. How can it?

 

[funflair]

Mine is an ALKO chassis and when the jacks are withdrawn, as the rear suspension takes the load again it does creep forwards a couple of inches.

When my E&P system was fitted at S.A.P. They told me that would happen and is a quirk of the ALKO suspension.

Doesn’t cause a problem... just don’t park with the front end too close to an obstruction.

Obviously doesn’t creep when the jacks are deployed and locked in position. How can it?

You are right it can't, it's to do with suspension geometry as the chassis goes up the distance between the rear wheels and the jacks reduces so the reverse on Jack retract, just let the handbrake off a touch and it should not do it. Ours does it a bit on IVECO chassis but it's more the handbrake juddering.

You will find on deployment it drags the wheels.

Martin

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[rrusty]

Mine is an ALKO chassis and when the jacks are withdrawn, as the rear suspension takes the load again it does creep forwards a couple of inches.


Obviously doesn’t creep when the jacks are deployed and locked in position. How can it?

Mine does the same.

 

[G7UXG]

You will find on deployment it drags the wheels.

After the first few deployments when the handbrake creaks as it’s strained (or at least that’s what I think the creaking is) I’ve started deploying them with the handbrake only lightly applied, then I put it on full after deployment.

Seems to work OK.

 

[Rapphil]

Can you explain why it is better to have the tyres in contact with the ground please?

Has anyone here experienced the 'creep' problem.

We assume that the jacks are designed to be able to take the full weight of the vehicle in any levelling situation. Is this correct? Obviously we use spreader pads on soft ground, but other than that the system can be relied on.... can't it?

As regards wheels touching the ground there have been posts before on this and I think there generally is a 50/50 opinion as to if it does damage to suspension and if it reduces stability if legs are deployed to maximum. No firm conclusions.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[icantremember]

I usually retract mine (HPC) by releasing the hand brake and using the foot brake to prevent any movement... not that I think the movement is a problem, unless as @G7UXG says, you have parked too close to an obstruction or a cliff!

 

[peterc10]

Mine is an ALKO chassis and when the jacks are withdrawn, as the rear suspension takes the load again it does creep forwards a couple of inches.

I would guess that is a result of the Alko using a torsion bar suspension system rather than leaf springs. The horizontal position of the wheel when it is unloaded is different to its position once it is fully loaded.

 

[Cocoro]

Hi...I have the Goldschmidt Jacks on a Carthago Mondial 58DRH....probably my favourite accessory by far. I too sometimes lift the wheels off the ground though I can't remember if I have ever lifted both rear wheels off the ground? Nope, don't think so. I have lifted the front ones clear often though I have to admit I don't really feel comfortable with this. You do feel it when the wind gets up but my van is pretty high. I think the advice for not lifting wheels clear of the ground is to do with a slope and breaking. I would never park on a slope and then lift my rear wheels clear as then I would have zero breaking effect from either handbrake or gearbox. I just feel in my head that a slope and rear wheels clear of the ground means that there will be a lateral force applied to the jacks which my brain is not equipped to calculate but perhaps someone can? However this event would be pretty rare as a fore and aft slope would mean that at least two wheels would be pretty much buried in the ground. So I always try to reverse up the slope to ensure that those two wheels are the rear hand braked ones. The instructions then must be to avoid someone lifting braked wheels off the ground? No?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Steve and Denise]

There is no point in lifting all wheels of the ground unless you are changing wheels or servicing and then only on a level surface. I have in the past turned our van side ways on a incline as it allows more lift from side to side.