Dometic Fridge Dead (1 Viewer)

[Andacami]

Fridge worked this morning on gas. We loaded up and headed off to Lyndon Top.

Now the fridge is dead. The front panel is dead, I can't get anything to happen when pressing the buttons. Gas is on, water is hot and pump works. Fridge won't work on engine either.

All other gas and electric systems work, there is no EHU here. All fuses seem ok on the PSU and the external"EB" board.

I've poked around and can find 12v off the big white plug all the way into the module at the rear.

Also noted a small kink in the ribbon cable on the outermost cable, I'm guessing that this is the front panel cable? Seems ok but ill have a closer look later.

I've read a few posts but nothing seems to match my issue, not that has a happy ending anyway.

I've not yet looked at battery, or cab or engine fuses or relays as I'm not sure what to look at really.

I'm looking for a bit more help then please. Any wiring diagrams? Guidance on what things to look at?

Usually undaunted by these things but I'm stumped now

Thank you...

 

[Lenny HB]

Check you have 12v power to the black module, normally fed by a 2 amp fuse. If there is power there it could well be that module they have a high failure rate. They can't be repaired the electronics inside are potted, about £200 for a new one.

 

[Andacami]

Thanks Lenny HB, testing now...

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[Andacami]

12.99v DC there on PS IN, nothing on +D.

 

[Andacami]

Ohh, a very short and low volume beeping for a few seconds just then, almost as if it was trying to sound the alarm. Not the ignitor. No lights, dead again though.

 

[steveh57]

I had to replace the PCB last weekend, more in hope I guess than anything else, certainly I had 12V at DC in , D+ was active with the engine on . Hence my diagnosis that the old PCB had died. Replacement fairly straightforward , now working again. You have a later version than my original with the polyfuse. I believe the procedure is turn off all power inputs for 10 mins in the hope it resets itself.

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[Lenny HB]

Ohh, a very short and low volume beeping for a few seconds just then, almost as if it was trying to sound the alarm. Not the ignitor. No lights, dead again though.

Sounds like power is getting to the control panel but not easy to check as I think it's fed via the IDC cable and no info on pinout, well I can't find any.

I had to replace the PCB last weekend, more in hope I guess than anything else, certainly I had 12V at DC in , D+ was active with the engine on . Hence my diagnosis that the old PCB had died. Replacement fairly straightforward , now working again. You have a later version than my original with the polyfuse. I believe the procedure is turn off all power inputs for 10 mins in the hope it resets itself.

I was going to suggest disconnecting the power to see if it resets probably easiest way would be to disconnect the leisure battery for a few minutes.

 

[Andacami]

All connectors removed, noticed the 230v was a bit lose so will get that replaced.

Will give it 15mins and plug it all back in, switch on and see...

 

[Andacami]

15mins turned into Gin, so will put it back together in the morning...

Ice had to be used of course.

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[Andacami]

Duplicate

 

[Andacami]

Still no joy, all I get is an occasional ticking for 10seconds when pressing the power button, no lights, nothing

 

[steveh57]

I hadn't a clue, still haven't, how you check which board has gone, I did read the rear PCB is prone to failure and on removal it had a brown heat stain on the filler, so I went with that, thankfully it's now working fine again. At least it looks, unlike mine that you don't have to remove the fridge to access that board, mine was situated between the two exterior vents with sod all access.

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[Andacami]

Quick update.

All the sensible advice given is correct, having 12v at the control box on the back confirms there are no issues with the motorhome electrics so leaving two options, control box or front panel. Today we swapped out the control box with a new one; it did not solve the problem so therefore the culprit is a failed front panel (or a component on/in it).

I've posted a wanted ad but if anyone reads this and can help, I'm after a new panel, please. Thank you.

 

[Andacami]

With thanks to all those that helped and especially TCG, I'm pleased to say the fridge is now working again. What a great bunch you lot are - thank you

 

[Ian-n-Suzy]

Hi,

After us private messaging you to say what we did last time to get ours up and running, we seem to have run into the same issue as yourself.

How did you manage to get yours up and running again?

I currently have the front panel at home in case it has got damp / condensation behind the buttons again.

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[Andacami]

I managed to get hold of a second-hand panel and I swapped the electronic board over to my panel as mine is a left-hand hinge and the second-hand part is right-hand. It now works just fine. I think Leisure Shop Direct will be getting stock soon: https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan-accessories/temporary/display-complete-left.

Before purchasing a new one (and I'm sure you have checked), are all the fuses good? There may be one or two fuse boards to check. In any case, if you have 12v into the back of the fridge, then it is most likely the front panel as mine failed in a similar way. The point to check is on "PS IN"; black wire neg, purple wire pos as in Post #4. When replacing, disconnect the big White connector block that feeds the power, replace the panel, plug the connector back together and turn on van power. The fridge should then light up, if not, switch it on.

 

[Hymerboy]

Quick update.

All the sensible advice given is correct, having 12v at the control box on the back confirms there are no issues with the motorhome electrics so leaving two options, control box or front panel. Today we swapped out the control box with a new one; it did not solve the problem so therefore the culprit is a failed front panel (or a component on/in it).

I've posted a wanted ad but if anyone reads this and can help, I'm after a new panel, please. Thank you.

View attachment 539208

View attachment 539209

View attachment 539210

APULJACK ENGINEERING LTD​

Try these people they rebuild damaged pcbs, Jack

01278 588 922​

enquiries@apuljackengineering.co.uk​

 

[Richard n Ann]

I used to work repairing Coop fridges in the 1990s. A lot of the systems started to go down the lines of complicated electronic control. Sometimes you just can't beat the simple reliability of a flash clock and stat

In fact it became a saying when discussing many faults, the repair would be "Flash clock and stat"

Glad our fridge is "selector knob and stat"

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[jockaneezer]

I used to work repairing Coop fridges in the 1990s. A lot of the systems started to go down the lines of complicated electronic control. Sometimes you just can't beat the simple reliability of a flash clock and stat

In fact it became a saying when discussing many faults, the repair would be "Flash clock and stat"

Glad our fridge is "selector knob and stat"

I went into a little grocer's shop in Skiathos last month. They'd obviously "knocked through" into part of the store room to extend their lines. As I was browsing, I could hear a familiar "hum" and in a corner, under some shelves of tinned stuff was an ancient belt driven fridge compressor, merrily chugging away on a small concrete plinth. Took me right back to sorting out the stock room as a kid in the 60's !

 

[Richard n Ann]

I went into a little grocer's shop in Skiathos last month. They'd obviously "knocked through" into part of the store room to extend their lines. As I was browsing, I could hear a familiar "hum" and in a corner, under some shelves of tinned stuff was an ancient belt driven fridge compressor, merrily chugging away on a small concrete plinth. Took me right back to sorting out the stock room as a kid in the 60's !

Wow yes a couple of the butchers in the 90's in Nottingham still had them too, they don't build them like that any more.

The compressor that ran Nottingham ice rink was ancient too, during the war it was taken away and used in the war effort and returned after, it was still there working in the 90s. "MADE IN GLASGOW" on it.

 

[John William]

Hi all I have a Dometic Fridge RM7655L which is 15 years old never had any problems before but had caravan engineer out to replace the pcb board because the fridge was dead. Still no power on the Control panel. He said I think you will need a new fridge. Is there anything else I can check. Regards John

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[GeoffnDee]

Have you checked the fridge power supply fuses , I think that there will be two , one 2amp for the fridge control and one 20amp for the 121v heating element (with engine running).

 

[Hymerboy]

I got a front control panel from Brownhills, Newark. after Dometic told me there were not made anymore mine was RMD8555.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

I got a front control panel from Brownhills, Newark. after Dometic told me there were not made anymore mine was RMD8555.

How many ch are the front panels please.?

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[Hymerboy]

How many ch are the front panels please.?

leisure spares quoted £183.00 but could not say when, Brownhills was £130.00, there is a comany called Apuljack engineering Tel :- 01278 588 922, they can repair control pcb's

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

leisure spares quoted £183.00 but could not say when, Brownhills was £130.00, there is a comany called Apuljack engineering Tel :- 01278 588 922, they can repair control pcb's

Thanks for the info.appreciated

 

[Sandie]

Quick update.

All the sensible advice given is correct, having 12v at the control box on the back confirms there are no issues with the motorhome electrics so leaving two options, control box or front panel. Today we swapped out the control box with a new one; it did not solve the problem so therefore the culprit is a failed front panel (or a component on/in it).

I've posted a wanted ad but if anyone reads this and can help, I'm after a new panel, please. Thank you.

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View attachment 539210

I need to investigate a fault on my RMD 8505 (it won't power down, so I have to switch off the 12 supply when not using it). Your set-up is identical to mine. How do you get the panel off, please? I've removed the 2 screws from above the panel in the freezer compartment, but then what? The service manual seems to suggest that it just pulls out. I'm not usually timid about these things, but don't want to break something. Do I need to remove any of the screws beneath the module? Any help appreciated!

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[Andacami]

If I recall correctly, there are about six torx screws underneath the panel. Removing these allows you to pull the panel off. There is one small multi-connector and one tiny one, these can be undone fairly easily. You should now have a panel on your hands.

There is not much one can do to it other than dry it out if it's wet or try a repair. Some of the button pads do get worn out/wet and fail to work properly.

I'm suffering a similar problem this season too with it not turning off and the buttons not being bright enough to see what button is alight (unless it's dark); the fridge still works so until it fails and I have saved up the millions of pounds required for a new panel, I'll live with it - but again, there is only so much tinkering one can do...

 

[Sandie]

If I recall correctly, there are about six torx screws underneath the panel. Removing these allows you to pull the panel off. There is one small multi-connector and one tiny one, these can be undone fairly easily. You should now have a panel on your hands.

There is not much one can do to it other than dry it out if it's wet or try a repair. Some of the button pads do get worn out/wet and fail to work properly.

I'm suffering a similar problem this season too with it not turning off and the buttons not being bright enough to see what button is alight (unless it's dark); the fridge still works so until it fails and I have saved up the millions of pounds required for a new panel, I'll live with it - but again, there is only so much tinkering one can do...

Thanks. I'll give that a go tomorrow. I'm not expecting miracles, but thought it was worth checking for something obvious e.g. dirt, corrosion, loose connection. If there's nothing to see, I'll just live with it. Interestingly, the previous owner, who had it from new for 3 years, had the panel replaced under warranty, so they're clearly not too robust.