Dead fridge or resurrectable? (1 Viewer)

[Rollin]

So my fridge doesn't work, and never has. It has some function as an icebox as long as I keep buying tubs of ice cream which I then have to eat that day (or more accurately drink mmm).

I've had a look at the back of it, and cleaned the burner (not much in the way of dirt there though) to no avail.

It does light, takes about 30 seconds, and the flame never gets better than a feeble barely visible blur.

I did spot some yellow residue on the bottom of the reservoir - does this mean the refridgerant has escaped and the thing is now unrepairable?

If the fridge is kaput, I was thinking of this one - http://www.caravanfridges.co.uk/dometic/rm5380.htm and would appreciate any opinions on it.

Also does anyone know why they're so much more expensive in France (and BROKEN LINK)?

 

[funflair]

If the yellow is a bit powdery crystaly it sound like it could be kaput.

Martin

 

[Rollin]

If the yellow is a bit powdery crystaly it sound like it could be kaput.

Martin

Yes I'd say that's a fairly accurate description Martin, in the picture it almost looks like it could be rust, but not so in real life. It's much more yellow looking, and sort of dusty.

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[Rollin]

Can anyone tell me if, when an absorption fridge has lost its coolant, the flame will not burn very strongly?

ie is there a system which cuts out the gas or doesn't allow it to flow freely if there is no coolant.

thanks
Rich

 

[Richard n Ann]

Can anyone tell me if, when an absorption fridge has lost its coolant, the flame will not burn very strongly?

ie is there a system which cuts out the gas or doesn't allow it to flow freely if there is no coolant.

thanks
Rich

The flame will burn the same regardless.

 

[Riverbankannie]

You could try searching online for caravan breakers who usually sell off salvageable contents.

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[makems]

Which make of fridge? You can get the main parts to repair recent Dometic fridges although they are expensive.. i just spent a grand having the cooling unit replaced on my fridge which is the bit that has the cooling matrix.

 

[Rollin]

Thanks guys for all your input.

Which make of fridge? You can get the main parts to repair recent Dometic fridges although they are expensive.. i just spent a grand having the cooling unit replaced on my fridge which is the bit that has the cooling matrix.

It's an Electrolux RM-4281. Reckon it's at least 10 years old. These fridges are eye-wateringly expensive. Can't for the life of me work out why - can't just be the absorption mechanism as I've come across equivalent compressor fridges that are only slightly less. I assume it must be the much smaller market compared to kitchen fridges.

The flame will burn the same regardless.

This is making me think that the fault might not be an escape of coolant. I've had a closer inspection round the back, and I no longer feel as confident that the 'residue' on the reservoir is the yellow, dusty stuff described by Martin earlier. I now think it might just be rust, caused by the evaporating moisture from the plastic beaker directly below it. I've run my hands on it, and they come back dusty, but it's just normal dust, not yellow or crystalline.

Thinking I might try the "take it out and tip it upside down" trick. Not sure what else to try apart from that.

 

[rupert]

you have of course tried it on 240v

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[Rollin]

you have of course tried it on 240v

Unfortunately the 240v transformer in my van needs replacing so I can't. I have however tried it on the 12v setting while the van was moving: no apparent cooling. So that does presumably mean the problem lies in the fridge somewhere, thanks.

 

[Figaro]

I think you need to rig up a 240 volt supply to the fridge to test it.
12 volt does little more than maintain any existing coolness (?) already there. Or so I`m led to believe.

 

[makems]

Thanks guys for all your input..

Thinking I might try the "take it out and tip it upside down" trick. Not sure what else to try apart from that.

The cause of the demise of my fridge was apparently something in the cooling matrix causing a blockage. Which explains why it would work for a while and then stop working until movement would move the blockage and it would work again. Until finally the blackage wouldnt move any further.
Turning the fridge upside down does the same thing. It moves the blockage which might work permanently or just for a short while until it happens again.
You have nothing to lose by trying it.

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[mitzimad]

Unfortunately the 240v transformer in my van needs replacing so I can't. I have however tried it on the 12v setting while the van was moving: no apparent cooling. So that does presumably mean the problem lies in the fridge somewhere, thanks.

i doubt if you have a 240volt transformer in the van unless you mean a invertor does your van have a hook up lead connection?

 

[rod_vw]

Take it out of the van and give it a good shake-up, sounds silly but I believe this remidy sometimes works. Otherwise look at Broken Link Removed for a replacement.

 

[Rollin]

Great, thanks all. In the next couple of days I'll see if I can feel any heating in the pipes at all, then do the "turn it upside down" trick. If no worky, guess I'll have to raid the piggy bank.

Otherwise look at Broken Link Removed for a replacement

I found those guys previously - seems a few places in the UK are selling them around that price, unfortunately I'm in France now, and I've not been able to find anywhere selling these for less than €900. However I've found a place in Spain selling them for roundabout the UK price, and it's not too far away.

i doubt if you have a 240volt transformer in the van unless you mean a invertor does your van have a hook up lead connection?

Hi @mitzimad My van has a Shaudt Electroblock which contains a transformer that steps down the 240v from the hook up to something more useful - could be 12v or maybe 14.5v as it's easier to reduce a DC voltage than increase it (I think). Anyway I don't know the exact specifications of this transformer, but when I put a multimeter on the output side, with 240v on the input, it was very low (less than 1v AC I think, can't remember exactly) leading me to believe it's done for. PS very impressed with your Renee2 - do you still have her?

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[rupert]

@Rollin. trying on 240v from hook up is the easy way forward it will teii you so much, and costs nothing.

 

[Rollin]

@Rollin. trying on 240v from hook up is the easy way forward it will teii you so much, and costs nothing.

Thanks mate, unfortunately hook-up is the other thing that's never worked in this van (seems to be a blown transformer). Maybe I'll see if I can find an engineer in this part of France who can give me a reliable answer about the fridge.

 

[rupert]

if your thinking about removing the fridge, it should be relatively easy to find the240 supply wires at the fridge, and connect it directly , to test it. best of luck with it. alan

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[Rollin]

if your thinking about removing the fridge, it should be relatively easy to find the240 supply wires at the fridge, and connect it directly , to test it. best of luck with it. alan

Full-time in the van at the moment Alan, in Frogland, so no access to mains (domestic mains is 110v as well here of course). Not in a site either so can't borrow a hook-up off someone else to try it. Shame as trying it on mains does sound like the next step in the ideal world.

 

[peterc10]

Full-time in the van at the moment Alan, in Frogland, so no access to mains (domestic mains is 110v as well here of course). Not in a site either so can't borrow a hook-up off someone else to try it. Shame as trying it on mains does sound like the next step in the ideal world.

France domestic mains is 230V just like us. The "transformer" should not stop the main electric working, all it does is transform 230V to 12V. If it does just unplug it. Many Aires have electric points in France. May have to buy a jetton for a few hours of electric, but well worth it I suspect.

 

[Rollin]

France domestic mains is 230V just like us.

huh I wonder why I thought they were on lower voltage - I've always thought it was just UK on 230V, but yes you're right. How funny I never clocked that before.

The "transformer" should not stop the main electric working, all it does is transform 230V to 12V.

Oh really? So the fridge would run directly on 230V then?? Again a revelation... I'd assumed it ran on 12V (but with more current than when running off the alternator). OK that's good news then, I just need to get to a hook-up and try it. Thanks a lot!

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[EuroTrotters]

I think after reading "110v" and Transformer. Plus the fact we are talking about ammonia here, you should be seeking the services of a professional.

France is 220/240v
I doubt we are talking about transformers (you may mean Consumer unit or could have a contactor if you have auto switching for your Inverter (if you have an inverter)).

 

[Rollin]

Thanks all for all your help! I have managed to fix the fridge

Not been able to get online easily the last few days, but basically the problem turned out to be a blockage in the pipe that goes from the gas tap on the fridge to the burner at the back.

It's as I was taking it out to try the 'upside-down' trick that I decided to test that this pipe allowed a free flow through it. This I did simply with the use of a bicycle pump, that fitted fine over the nozzle at the tap-end. There seemed to be something blocking it as the air would not flow freely, so I gave it several squirts of WD-40 right into the pipe. First of all this would squirt right back at me, but after lots of WD-40 alternating with the bicycle pump, I got it to a point where air would flow freely.

Once I put it all back together, the flame on the burner was much stronger, and I could hear the promising sounds of gurgling liquid coming from the back.

Since then the fridge has been working perfectly. Ice box frosts up, milk doesn't turn to cheese, and most importantly of course, cold beer.

Thanks again to everyone who helped, really appreciate it.

 

[Rollin]

I think after reading "110v" and Transformer. Plus the fact we are talking about ammonia here, you should be seeking the services of a professional.

France is 220/240v
I doubt we are talking about transformers (you may mean Consumer unit or could have a contactor if you have auto switching for your Inverter (if you have an inverter)).

It's a transformer me old mate. I already confirmed this:

My van has a Shaudt Electroblock which contains a transformer that steps down the 240v from the hook up to something more useful - could be 12v or maybe 14.5v as it's easier to reduce a DC voltage than increase it (I think). Anyway I don't know the exact specifications of this transformer, but when I put a multimeter on the output side, with 240v on the input, it was very low (less than 1v AC I think, can't remember exactly) leading me to believe it's done for.

Here's a picture of the actual transformer in question:

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[mitzimad]

It's a transformer me old mate. I already confirmed this:



Here's a picture of the actual transformer in question:

View attachment 174260

you originally said it didnt work on 240 because the transformer was broken there is no transformer in the 240 circuit the tranformer will out put 12v but not to the fridge to run it you will have a 12v from transformer to run controls and light as you now have the fridge running you can assume your transformer is also running

 

[Rollin]

you originally said it didnt work on 240 because the transformer was broken there is no transformer in the 240 circuit the tranformer will out put 12v but not to the fridge to run it you will have a 12v from transformer to run controls and light as you now have the fridge running you can assume your transformer is also running

You're right, the confusion is because I am a complete newbie and didn't realise there was a 230v circuit in the van. It is possible that circuit works fine and I will test it again next opportunity. Thank you for helping clarify that. I really do appreciate the help and apologise for my ignorance. Sorry if I've got anyone's back up about it.

A question i need to answer is whether the 230v is wired direct to the hookup plug, or does it come from the kettle-type socket on the electroblock.

I expect wherever it does come from will have a separate parallel connection to the transformer for the 12v circuit.

A previous owner had unplugged the kettle connection to the electroblock and wired that lead directly to a separate battery charger (which was knackered). My assumption is that this was done because it wasn't charging the batteries from hookup which i believe is down to a blown transformer. Not sure how easy it will be to get a replacement one of those or to find the exact specs.

 

[mitzimad]

usually 240 comes in through your hook up and then goes via a consumer unit then to fridge and any other sockets or appliances you have on 240
some times the consumer unit is part of a control panel easy to see as you will have trips like you have in the fusebox at home
fridges have a 240 connection, a permanent 12v connection and a 12v connection that is only live when the engine is running the running 12v is supplied via a relay which activates when engine is started this can be part of the block or a separate relay either by the battery or behind the fridge
the kettle lead is indeed 240 into your electro block which is used to feed your battery charger which will charge your hab batteries and possibly your cab battery as well and therefore your 12v circuits
easiest way to check if that part is working is a multi meter on the hab batteries the voltage should jump up when the hook up lead is connected and the same should happen when you start the engine a healthy fully charge battery will show about 12.8 with either charger or alternator running it should jump to 13.5 or higher all the 12v is dc the 240 is ac
if the previous owner has added a charger its a fair assumption that the block is duff hope this all helps im no electrician and everything can vary depending on the model of the fridge and layout of van im assuming its the van in our avatar newr vans are all canbus controlled and a very diffent kettle of poison

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[Rollin]

Thanks @mitzimad that's really helpful stuff.

My van is quite old, it is a ducato but older than the one in your avatar. Perhaps the 2nd version of the van - first sold in 1995. One drawback of these older ones is the alternator only produces 10A not the 18A of later models. I've been told this means i need to be careful about fitting a second habitation battery due to the risk of overworking it leading to an early demise. I can see that it does charge the hab battery when the engine is running, the voltmeter on the panel shows 13.5v-14.2v (ish) and the current meter shows the expected 10A.

Thanks again for sharing the knowledge