Canbus decoder needed for new electrical vehicle accessories?

[MobWunderlust]

Hi,
I recently picked up an Elddis Autoquest 165 and am wanting to add some accessories to it such as reversing camers, GPS tracker, 4G internet or satellite antenna, etc.

Do I need to fit a Canbus decoder to supply power to these new accessories, as I assume I just cant simpy 'cut into' power supply cables that feed the vehicles various elements. (eg: had thought to use the power to the above-windscreen cabin lights to supply power to the reversing camera monitor which clips over the reversing mirror).

Or would the LV fuse board used for existing motorhome specific items (LED lights, heater, water pump, etc) be the best place to run new power feeds for any new items? The problem here I see is that the switch for 'motorhome' items would need to be on to run these new accessories (not ideal in the case of the items I mentioned).

I think I really want power from the boxer's main engine battery right?

If so can someone recommend a good decoder? and/or any other suggections...

Thanks!

 

[mitzimad]

If there are spare fuse ways on your panel you can use them or you can add another fuse box to either battery its more usual to run from the leisure's for hab accessories as you dont want to be adding to the van battery as you could wind up unable to start
re the reversing camera you don't need a permanent live feed you require a cable from the revesing light circuit unless you want a rearview thats always on
depending on the load of what your adding you can piggy back from existing circuits ie extra lights on a lighting circuit

 

[Garfields]

Easiest to use piggyback fuse holders from existing fuse box simples
Stay away from messing with the Cambus it will just cause greef

 

[Two on Tour]

We have an Elddis Autoquest 175 and for the Reversing cameras, and satnav, I piggybacked on the cab fuse board by the drivers righthand knee.
The additional USB power outlets in the cab I have piggybacked of the cigar lighter sockets, and for all the other auxiliary circuits that I have installed in the hab area like satellite, tracker WiFi, TV, USB outlets, and the like, I have taken a positive and negative feed directly from the leisure battery to busbars and fed all my circuits which are individually fused from the busbars.

 

[MobWunderlust]

Easiest to use piggyback fuse holders from existing fuse box simples
Stay away from messing with the Cambus it will just cause greef

will do thanks for the tip

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[MobWunderlust]

We have an Elddis Autoquest 175 and for the Reversing cameras, and satnav, I piggybacked on the cab fuse board by the drivers righthand knee.
The additional USB power outlets in the cab I have piggybacked of the cigar lighter sockets, and for all the other auxiliary circuits that I have installed in the hab area like satellite, tracker WiFi, TV, USB outlets, and the like, I have taken a positive and negative feed directly from the leisure battery to busbars and fed all my circuits which are individually fused from the busbars.

Do I need to work out which fuse for each item (i.e 5A, 7.5A 10A, 20A) - or just go into the 20A to be safe? Does it matter which ones I piggyback onto?

 

[MobWunderlust]

If there are spare fuse ways on your panel you can use them or you can add another fuse box to either battery its more usual to run from the leisure's for hab accessories as you dont want to be adding to the van battery as you could wind up unable to start
re the reversing camera you don't need a permanent live feed you require a cable from the revesing light circuit unless you want a rearview thats always on
depending on the load of what your adding you can piggy back from existing circuits ie extra lights on a lighting circuit

I like the idea of the reverse camera being on as I drive - basically feels like I have a rear view mirror. As per my reply to another comment below - seems the piggyback fuse would be the way to go. Otherwise I could connect a cable with ring connector directly off one of the negative terminals on the battery?
Just a bit of useful info maybe - In my impatience for delivery of the bits and bobs to do it with piggyback fuses, I thought for my clip on camera screen I'd cut into the supply cable for the interior roof light - worked like a treat for the camera screen, but little did I know, it has now caused an engine fault. No doubt the CanBus has detected a change and now the van is in limp mode... Live and learn!! Am hoping a OSD2 fault reader I've now ordered can confirm and allow me to reset the fault....

 

[Two on Tour]

Do I need to work out which fuse for each item (i.e 5A, 7.5A 10A, 20A) - or just go into the 20A to be safe? Does it matter which ones I piggyback onto?

To look for the permanently live fuses and the ignition live fuses, I simple popped out a fuse, put in a piggyback and with a multi meter I tested in what state the piggyback was live, ignition on or ignition off.