Cambelt X250 2.3 150bhp

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I'm a newbie and always will be. You never know it all.
I know this may sound stupid and to some degree it is because I never thought it through.:xdoh:

Does the engine oil have to be drained or can the cambelt be changed without?

In my haste to prepare for my departure to warmer climes in January, I booked the M/H into my local garage for the MOT and cambelt, as it is 7 years old and I didn't want to risk an upset during my sabbatical.:whistle:

Any way just going through my paper work and realised that I had it serviced after my trip to Espania last year.:rolleyes: The long and the short of it being that the oil, oil filter and fuel filter were all changed with less than 1000 miles on the clock.

Times are hard (I kid you not) especially if B""""T forces me to come back early.

any advise welcome, constructive or not, seeing as its the season of good cheer.:LOL:
 
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If the oil was changed last year good idea to change it now.
 
Oil and filters will do fine without channging
belt and tensioners change asap 2-3 yrs late already

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Anyone changing oil and filter annually just because it seems a good idea has more money than sense.
The manufacturers work with oil company scientists to formulate the best oils for specific engines and determine the best intervals both on milage and time basis to change the oil and filter.
There is no need to go against their findings.
 
Thanks for all the good advice so far, sorry Geo typical of my dementia and OCD 7 years since the base vehicle was manufactured, converted 6 years ago first reg 5 years.
Mileage wise since last service one trip to New Brighton from base and one trip to Chester last weekend. Possibly 300 miles.
 
Thanks for all the good advice so far, sorry Geo typical of my dementia and OCD 7 years since the base vehicle was manufactured, converted 6 years ago first reg 5 years.
Mileage wise since last service one trip to New Brighton from base and one trip to Chester last weekend. Possibly 300 miles.
Still overdue on a time basis.
Like tyres and condoms, cam belts perish with time even if they aren't used.
Approx 5 years depending on model and year is about normal.

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I realise the scientists are far cleverer than me but they didn't have to repair diesel engines, I did.
 
I realise the scientists are far cleverer than me but they didn't have to repair diesel engines, I did.
Was it proved and documented the oil caused the damage and was the oil company sued? In my experience, catastrophic engine damage is either mechanical failure/fatigue or pilot error... Can't hear it knocking/banging/rattling.
 
The engines I worked on had oil that was continuously purified, for the life of the engine, all 30,000 litres of it. Sampled and tested every month. We couldn't change it, cost around £300,000. Changing the oil on a little diesel costs so little, and does so much good, it's a no brainer.
 
The engines I worked on had oil that was continuously purified, for the life of the engine, all 30,000 litres of it. Sampled and tested every month. We couldn't change it, cost around £300,000. Changing the oil on a little diesel costs so little, and does so much good, it's a no brainer.

They`re big engines :xsurprised:
 
33,000 bhp.

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I know this may sound stupid and to some degree it is because I never thought it through.:xdoh:

Does the engine oil have to be drained or can the cambelt be changed without?

In my haste to prepare for my departure to warmer climes in January, I booked the M/H into my local garage for the MOT and cambelt, as it is 7 years old and I didn't want to risk an upset during my sabbatical.:whistle:

Any way just going through my paper work and realised that I had it serviced after my trip to Espania last year.:rolleyes: The long and the short of it being that the oil, oil filter and fuel filter were all changed with less than 1000 miles on the clock.

Times are hard (I kid you not) especially if B""""T forces me to come back early.

any advise welcome, constructive or not, seeing as its the season of good cheer.:LOL:

I think you should check your spec before you order a cambelt, ASFAIK the 150hp 2.3 engine didnt come out until 2010 and there are differences so might be a different cambelt?

And yes you are right, if we leave the EU there will be barriers errected all over europe to stop british tourists.
 
Worked for a company that decided that to save we should only change the oil at the oil company's recommended life which was 100 000 miles, within a year we lost six engines which at the time cost £7000 each to rebuild in parts alone. and yes the oil was ok BUT the oil filters had blocked enough to lower the oil pressure, The company's solution change the filters every 50 000 miles my answer leave mechanics to mechanics and I went back to our old servicing schedule.
 
Long oil change intervals are all about attracting fleet buyers by minimising ongoing cost of their fleet. Neither the vehicle manufacturer or the operator care what happens to the engines after the 2 -3 years they have been in the original buyer's hands and warranties have expired.

Development of modern oils is also more concerned with minimising friction and emissions than engine life. I can't find it now, but I had a copy of a document relating to the development of the current 0W20 oil specification for Volvo, which specifically stated that those were the primary development concerns. Volvo specify a slightly higher viscocity oil in the US after reports of excessive oil consumption and warranty replacement of some engines.

I saw a document circulated to police fleet garages by a major German motor manufacturer a couple of years ago, which advised that the diesel cars on our fleet had to be run on traditional higher viscocity oils with 6000 mile oil and filter changes after a number of catastrophic engine failures which the vehicle manufacturer had determined after investigation were due to the originally specified oil being unable to cope with the operating characteristics of the vehicles, which included periods of idling and high speed use.

The Ducato owners' handbook also specifies more frequent oil and filter changes than the service schedule mandates for "demanding use" which includes long periods of inactivity and/or frequent short journeys - i.e. low mileage usage patterns.
 
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Sorry, I'm an engineer, so I change the oil every year regardless of what the manual says. It doesn't cost much when I get an annual service anyway.

Totally agree, modern oils have come a long way but engines that don’t do a high mileage and left standing for long periods of time will accumulate moisture from its last run that will emulsified the oil,
For the small cost in relative terms to the cost of your engine IMO

Fifty five years in the motor trade seeing many engines destroyed by lack
of maintenance and owners neglect for the want of a gallon of oil and filter, as had be said previously, it’s a no brainer
 
Just had my cambelt changed (for the second time) as it was time due, along with the other bits, tensioners etc. and this time also the water pump (it wasn't causing any problems but it was done as a precaution at my request under advice). The engine has now done 106,000 reliable miles. It was done at the annual service/MoT and the oil, filters etc. were changed at the same time.

I've always changed oil and filters at least annually on every vehicle I've ever owned, on the early ones more often than that of course, my old MG needed doing every 3,000, yes 3,000 miles. But, again on the advice of my regular garage, it's now done 2-yearly on our two cars simply because neither of them now does more than 2,000 miles p.a.

I don't "thrash" my vehicles, in fact I'm probably too gentle with them, as I was always taught to drive sympathetically. I get good fuel consumption, tyres last me for ever and the only mechanicals replaced tend to be caused by lack of use. I've never bought a new car and most of those I've had have actually been more or less scrapped when I've replaced them - a car is a tool, it's looked after but when it's of no further use it's thrown away.

So to come back to the OP subject, I'm with the prevention is better than cure brigade. In my mind it's less expensive in the long term.

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just had my RAPIDO serviced and Cambelt done, motor just done 20,000 miles from new just coming up for five years old,
 
I used to change mine annually, as you say not expensive or difficult to change.
Now I do it every two - 16000 miles and that still half the manufacturer's recommended change period.
These modern oils and filters are so good compared to the old mineral oils and they just don't deteriorate.
 
I change the oil and filter at least every 12 months, except in our 21year old Swift where I changed it every 5000 miles ( twice a year)
Our last car( 2011 Kia) specified oil and filter change every 12 months to keep the DPF in good condition.
Our new van with 2.3 Euro 6 engine states oil and filter change every two years or when the ECU decides it needs doing.
I will still do it after 12 months.
Possible un-needed expense but I will sleep better!
 
So to come back to the OP subject, I'm with the prevention is better than cure brigade. In my mind it's less expensive in the long term.

Totally agree with that, but find it strange that with that viewpoint you've gone to extended oil changes for low mileage, exactly the opposite of what is normally recommended?

Iveco scheduled oil changes for the F1A 2.3 mulitjet engine (the same engine used in Ducatos) are at maximum 24 months, but they also state:

If the distance travelled over the year is very low, or in any case less than 20,000km/year, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least every 12 months.
If the vehicle has not been driven for a period of more than 3 months, the engine oil and filter must be changed before the engine is started.
If less than 40,000km are covered per year, the rear axle oil must be changed at least every 2 years and the gearbox oil must be changed at least every 3 years.
 
Totally agree with that, but find it strange that with that viewpoint you've gone to extended oil changes for low mileage, exactly the opposite of what is normally recommended?

Yes it does seem a bit contrary but I'm talking about our cars, not the m/h. Thing is they're neither worth a lot, despite being perfect runners, and are still given the once over by my garage annually at the MoT. In the event of a serious mechanical failure, which given the way they are used is very unlikely, they'll just be replaced - or not if we decide they're no longer needed.

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Totally agree with that, but find it strange that with that viewpoint you've gone to extended oil changes for low mileage, exactly the opposite of what is normally recommended?

Iveco scheduled oil changes for the F1A 2.3 mulitjet engine (the same engine used in Ducatos) are at maximum 24 months, but they also state:

If the distance travelled over the year is very low, or in any case less than 20,000km/year, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least every 12 months.
If the vehicle has not been driven for a period of more than 3 months, the engine oil and filter must be changed before the engine is started.
If less than 40,000km are covered per year, the rear axle oil must be changed at least every 2 years and the gearbox oil must be changed at least every 3 years.

Yes I've been looking at an Iveco van,one owner, which has 330k on the clock & has been serviced every 15k kms with everything changed
( documented) including gearbox & rear axle oils.
 
If the vehicle has not been driven for a period of more than 3 months, the engine oil and filter must be changed before the engine is started.

Does this means that every motorhome is about to blow up after the 3 months winter layup? --- Oh bugger I started mine last week!!!:Eeek::Eeek:
 
Mine rarely goes a month without a run, took her out last weekend for lunch at a beach. Helps to run the AC every couple of weeks as well.
 
No offense, but the scientists who develop the oil are far more qualified to say when it needs changing than you. :xsmile:

Im going to disagree with you.
Yes the oils are far superior these days but a vehicle only driven for short periods will cause a fair amount of condensation. This in turn can emulsify the oil causing wear issues.

IMHO :)

Edit Didn't get as far as @ivorantony post before I typed :rolleyes:
 
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I de-coke my car engine every 1500 miles cos that's what my grandad did with his when he was a lad.

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