OldAgeTravellers
LIFE MEMBER
Hi all you B2B gurus, I know this has been discussed quite a bit, I have read many posts on here and elsewhere and I, probably like many others, have become totally confused.
First off @Jim sells them not sure which model, £290 which I believe is the 45amp one is this the best one to get or is it best to go for a higher amp version if so which. Amazon has a BB1250 for £279 inc delivery a BB241230 for £296 inc. there is no indication of current output also I believe Ring make a B2B which is cheaper (is it as good?), so all very confusing.
And then there is the Alternator to Battery AB2480 for £337inc. how to choose.
First my MoHo is a Hymer 614 Star. On Fiat 150 Euro5 chassis with Alko chassis.
It has the Schaudt EBL 101 paired with the DT203 panel
3 x 100watt (German) Solar panels
With Vitronic MPP350 regulator with digital link to EBL wired as suggested by Udo Lang and @JeanLuc to avoid the Solar limit of the EBL101. This regulator controls the S+ terminal of the Fridge to switch to Battery when there is enough excess solar power which works very well even if only a little sun.
2 x 90 AH Varta leisure batteries about to ad a third of same age and condition.
90 AH Bosch engine battery.
There have been suggestions here and elsewhere that the EBL101 is a sort of B2B as it can output 35amps….. is it really?
There are also suggestions that the EBL101 will get very confused because when the B2B is working it is not counting the amps in but it is counting the amps out……Will it get confused and close the system down thinking that the batteries are too low despite it measuring the voltage?
In one post @eddievanbitz said it would just reset each time it got to full charge so not a problem. As the B2B would be working every time the engine runs the battery is likely to get to 100% most times so the EBL will basically reset then just measure the amps out and solar panel or charger amps in when. Battery usage will only happen parked up when the drain becomes of interest when the batteries should be at 100%.
There is another suggestion that the “Battery Master” part of the EBL101 should be disconnected as it would be a loop. I cannot see how this could be a problem as I would think (in fact I can see from the cuircuit diagram of the EBL) that circuit would be protected by diodes and other electronics in the EBL especially as it actually limits the current flow to the engine battery to a trickle charge. Disconnecting this would also stop the solar panels from keeping the engine battery topped up so disconnecting it would not be good.
The B2B can have temperature sensors on the alternator and on the leisure battery terminals I would think this is important….do you agree is it worth the extra cost or do they come in the kit?
So…. If the B2B or A2B is a sensible fitment especially as we rarely if ever have hook up, any suggestions should it be A2B or B2B and which model?
Is it worth the expense of the Remote control panel, I am hoping that it will fit in the spare space in the engine battery box under the cab floor which of course will be cool, so it will be impossible to see it in normal use. Until I physically try it, it is difficult to tell if this will be possible. Regardless of where I fit it, is it “fit-n-forget” or is it necessary to see what it is doing. Hence the remote panel.
If I can fit it into that battery box I think it may be difficult to run 12 mm sq cable or larger as the gap is quite thin would two 6mm sq be ok or should they be even thicker like normal battery cables about 12mm dia whatever cross section that is. Should it have both + and – cables all the way to the leisure batteries less than a meter, or is the chassis neg on to the engine battery OK.
Is it worth fitting a Victron Battery monitor in the region of £150 and which one and is the blue tooth dongle worth the expense I have seen the BMV700 with dongle for £179 as a kit. There also seem to be a number of versions of these on Amazon so model suggestions please if the BMV700 is not appropriate.
On my last van I had a Gasperini GPL (LPG) generator which was very good in winter when the sun didn’t shine but very rarely used so hardly worth the extra expense if this B2B setup will keep the batteries topped up in an emergency by just running the engine for a bit if the batteries get a bit low. That is, if I am understanding the abilities of the B2B correctly.
If you have waded through all this, thus far then thanks very much. I very much welcome any input .
Steve
First off @Jim sells them not sure which model, £290 which I believe is the 45amp one is this the best one to get or is it best to go for a higher amp version if so which. Amazon has a BB1250 for £279 inc delivery a BB241230 for £296 inc. there is no indication of current output also I believe Ring make a B2B which is cheaper (is it as good?), so all very confusing.
And then there is the Alternator to Battery AB2480 for £337inc. how to choose.
First my MoHo is a Hymer 614 Star. On Fiat 150 Euro5 chassis with Alko chassis.
It has the Schaudt EBL 101 paired with the DT203 panel
3 x 100watt (German) Solar panels
With Vitronic MPP350 regulator with digital link to EBL wired as suggested by Udo Lang and @JeanLuc to avoid the Solar limit of the EBL101. This regulator controls the S+ terminal of the Fridge to switch to Battery when there is enough excess solar power which works very well even if only a little sun.
2 x 90 AH Varta leisure batteries about to ad a third of same age and condition.
90 AH Bosch engine battery.
There have been suggestions here and elsewhere that the EBL101 is a sort of B2B as it can output 35amps….. is it really?
There are also suggestions that the EBL101 will get very confused because when the B2B is working it is not counting the amps in but it is counting the amps out……Will it get confused and close the system down thinking that the batteries are too low despite it measuring the voltage?
In one post @eddievanbitz said it would just reset each time it got to full charge so not a problem. As the B2B would be working every time the engine runs the battery is likely to get to 100% most times so the EBL will basically reset then just measure the amps out and solar panel or charger amps in when. Battery usage will only happen parked up when the drain becomes of interest when the batteries should be at 100%.
There is another suggestion that the “Battery Master” part of the EBL101 should be disconnected as it would be a loop. I cannot see how this could be a problem as I would think (in fact I can see from the cuircuit diagram of the EBL) that circuit would be protected by diodes and other electronics in the EBL especially as it actually limits the current flow to the engine battery to a trickle charge. Disconnecting this would also stop the solar panels from keeping the engine battery topped up so disconnecting it would not be good.
The B2B can have temperature sensors on the alternator and on the leisure battery terminals I would think this is important….do you agree is it worth the extra cost or do they come in the kit?
So…. If the B2B or A2B is a sensible fitment especially as we rarely if ever have hook up, any suggestions should it be A2B or B2B and which model?
Is it worth the expense of the Remote control panel, I am hoping that it will fit in the spare space in the engine battery box under the cab floor which of course will be cool, so it will be impossible to see it in normal use. Until I physically try it, it is difficult to tell if this will be possible. Regardless of where I fit it, is it “fit-n-forget” or is it necessary to see what it is doing. Hence the remote panel.
If I can fit it into that battery box I think it may be difficult to run 12 mm sq cable or larger as the gap is quite thin would two 6mm sq be ok or should they be even thicker like normal battery cables about 12mm dia whatever cross section that is. Should it have both + and – cables all the way to the leisure batteries less than a meter, or is the chassis neg on to the engine battery OK.
Is it worth fitting a Victron Battery monitor in the region of £150 and which one and is the blue tooth dongle worth the expense I have seen the BMV700 with dongle for £179 as a kit. There also seem to be a number of versions of these on Amazon so model suggestions please if the BMV700 is not appropriate.
On my last van I had a Gasperini GPL (LPG) generator which was very good in winter when the sun didn’t shine but very rarely used so hardly worth the extra expense if this B2B setup will keep the batteries topped up in an emergency by just running the engine for a bit if the batteries get a bit low. That is, if I am understanding the abilities of the B2B correctly.
If you have waded through all this, thus far then thanks very much. I very much welcome any input .
Steve
