Alloy wheel corrosion

G-RMPS

G-RMPS

Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Posts
1,762
Likes collected
4,642
Location
Perth
Funster No
51,142
MH
Malibu 640 LERB
Exp
Since 2014
These wheels were replaced three years ago. Any ideas on how to remove the corrosion or otherwise refurbish?
04E087B7-1F88-4FBB-8D7E-801C96582BAD.jpeg
 

Instant Quote - Powdercoat & Diamond Cut

If you are looking for a high quality finish on your wheels or need them repairing then get an instant quote with fast turn around times.
www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk

This is a company with franchisees all over. I have used a local one on a couple of occasions and they have been excellent.

Terry
 
They're "diamond cut" which means you're asking lacquer (clearcoat) to adhere to a highly polished metal surface. They will never last as long as normal alloy wheels. The picture shows where moisture has got under the lacquer at an edge and then slowly spread. When you have them refurbished you could have them powder coated in silver, it won't be so shiny but will last much longer. The wheels on our Dethleffs are similar, one was replaced under warranty after a year.
 
We had ours done by a mobile alloy wheel fefurb company. The normal price is £65 a wheel but we got ours done for £35 as he’s a neighbour. We asked for the five small holes and the wheel bolt holes to be chamfered as these sharp edges appear to be where it starts.
When ours were replaced by Hymer they started to peel again within 18 months and I used good quality wheel wax to try and prevent it.
We went for gloss black this time rather than the original finish.
 
Last edited:
Galvanic corrosion, also known as bimetallic corrosion, is an electrochemical process whereby one metal corrodes in preference to another metal that it is in contact with through an electrolyte.

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are immersed in a conductive solution and are electrically connected. One metal (the cathode) is protected, whilst the other (the anode) is corroded. The rate of attack on the anode is accelerated, compared to the rate when the metal is uncoupled.

For example, if aluminium and carbon steel are connected and immersed in seawater, the aluminium will corrode more quickly, whilst the steel will receive protection

Salt water from the road or if you live near the sea will cause it to happen again unless the wheels are coated
 
Barclaybasher said:
Galvanic corrosion, also known as bimetallic corrosion, is an electrochemical process whereby one metal corrodes in preference to another metal that it is in contact with through an electrolyte.

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are immersed in a conductive solution and are electrically connected. One metal (the cathode) is protected, whilst the other (the anode) is corroded. The rate of attack on the anode is accelerated, compared to the rate when the metal is uncoupled.

For example, if aluminium and carbon steel are connected and immersed in seawater, the aluminium will corrode more quickly, whilst the steel will receive protection

Salt water from the road or if you live near the sea will cause it to happen again unless the wheels are coated
Click to expand...
Very true, but nothing to do with why these peel. It’s as Stephen Franklin said above. The lacquer has no key and the edges are too sharp.
The wheels are coated, it’s the lacquer coating coming off.
 
Hettie's Crew said:
Very true, but nothing to do with why these peel. It’s as Stephen Franklin said above. The lacquer has no key and the edges are too sharp.
The wheels are coated, it’s the lacquer coating coming off.
Click to expand...

I think it's the steel wheel nuts reacting with the wheel........

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Barclaybasher said:
I think it's the steel wheel nuts reacting with the wheel........
Click to expand...
You would think that is a distinct possibility but on our new replacements it started around the small hole edges and large hole edges, not inside the the large holes where the bolts are, though it progressed to there.
 
Perhaps we need the Japanese to show us how to make stuff that doesn't rust again 🙄
 
We’ve got diamond cut on our car, that’s why we’ve gone for steels on our new van. I can replace 4 steels for less than the price of one alloy.

Alloys look great, but I’m happy to go with steel now. (y)
 
Might as well have them refurbished...... The 'replacement under warranty' ones will already be refurbished previously exchanged wheels.
 
pappajohn said:
Might as well have them refurbished...... The 'replacement under warranty' ones will already be refurbished previously exchanged wheels.
Click to expand...
Thanks, everyone. And my guess is this post hit the nail on the head. We insisted on “new” wheels when we bought the van secondhand due to corrosion. Who knows if the “replacements under warranty” were refurbished wheels or otherwise :-(

i should probably have acted sooner as we have corrosion spots at the rim on all four wheels.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
G-RMPS said:
Thanks, everyone. And my guess is this post hit the nail on the head. We insisted on “new” wheels when we bought the van secondhand due to corrosion. Who knows if the “replacements under warranty” were refurbished wheels or otherwise :-(

i should probably have acted sooner as we have corrosion spots at the rim on all four wheels.
Click to expand...
Wait until they start deflating over six months then 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - months etc. You've all that to look forward to yet 👌

I think if I had them I would wax them every month to stop the external corrosion.. 🤔 Actually I'd sell them while they still look good and buy a much better type of alloy... Steel 👌😎
 
I’ll never moan about the amount of dust on our wheel trims again.. a quick brush and some running water and it’s down the drain
 
Richard and Ann said:
Wait until they start deflating over six months then 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - months etc. You've all that to look forward to yet 👌

I think if I had them I would wax them every month to stop the external corrosion.. 🤔 Actually I'd sell them while they still look good and buy a much better type of alloy... Steel 👌😎
Click to expand...
Yup, my merc had flat tyres until I got the wheels refurbished.
 
4.3 litres of old-fashioned grunt, not fazed by a few leaky tyres :)

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
pappajohn said:
Might as well have them refurbished...... The 'replacement under warranty' ones will already be refurbished previously exchanged wheels.
Click to expand...
When Hymer replaced my corroded wheels the replacement wheels were completely different, of the type used on newer models.
 
Sea water apart, I think a lot of those corroding alloy wheels are caused by regular visit to hand car washes. In order to work fast, these people use a very acidic degreaser to spray on the wheels before washing the vehicle. I would only use a hand car wash if they used Autoglym products and I only know one 20 miles away from where I am.
 
My Hymer alloys corroded without any help from hand car washes, acidic cleaners or undue sea water (stored inland). I can believe that electrolytic action played a part because it grew out from the wheel nuts but they aren’t optional. My only conclusion is poor quality finishing and not fit for purpose.
 
I've got an idea for a new product 🤔 imagine if you will a high resolution wheel sized circular photo of a diamond cut wheel in high quality perspex stuck on a wheel trim!

You could even slide the photo out and a new one in, you could change to rostyles, normal alloy or a rusty steel anti theft one 😁
 
beachwomble said:
Sea water apart, I think a lot of those corroding alloy wheels are caused by regular visit to hand car washes. In order to work fast, these people use a very acidic degreaser to spray on the wheels before washing the vehicle. I would only use a hand car wash if they used Autoglym products and I only know one 20 miles away from where I am.
Click to expand...

I do all my own car / motorcycle (and soon to be van) cleaning.....I’ve got a whole shelf full of Autoglym and other good products, but my Peugeot diamond cut wheels are failing.;)

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Our van is on its third set of warranty replacements. 1st set (diamond cut) were replaced for the original owners with powder coated ones. These were replaced last year as they we badly corroded, with diamond cut ones. This set have lasted less than a year with the worms now appearing, so will need refurbishment in the next year.
 
Richard and Ann said:
I've got an idea for a new product 🤔 imagine if you will a high resolution wheel sized circular photo of a diamond cut wheel in high quality perspex stuck on a wheel trim!

You could even slide the photo out and a new one in, you could change to rostyles, normal alloy or a rusty steel anti theft one 😁
Click to expand...
Four please!
 
You can always go for black alloys. My Corsa Limited Edition came with them so no sign of such on them as they are painted by the look of them. I managed to buy for £45 on eBay one spare to match complete with a good tyre, very lucky indeed to get at the price.
 
Barclaybasher said:
Galvanic corrosion, also known as bimetallic corrosion, is an electrochemical process whereby one metal corrodes in preference to another metal that it is in contact with through an electrolyte.

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are immersed in a conductive solution and are electrically connected. One metal (the cathode) is protected, whilst the other (the anode) is corroded. The rate of attack on the anode is accelerated, compared to the rate when the metal is uncoupled.

For example, if aluminium and carbon steel are connected and immersed in seawater, the aluminium will corrode more quickly, whilst the steel will receive protection

Salt water from the road or if you live near the sea will cause it to happen again unless the wheels are coated
Click to expand...
If the description you gave was steel against aluminium I think it would be correct. Whilst not dissimilar another process is it work here the laquer Is supposed to protect the metal so the question is how are why is the coating failing in order for corrosion to occur.
 
Coolcats said:
If the description you gave was steel against aluminium I think it would be correct. Whilst not dissimilar another process is it work here the laquer Is supposed to protect the metal so the question is how are why is the coating failing in order for corrosion to occur.
Click to expand...
I am guessing here but I would suspect that the wheel nuts bite through the lacquer when tightened and the problems start from there. If so the the lacquering process appears to put pretty appearance above functionality.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Join us

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top