For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p!
Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.
More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.
If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:
First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-
Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.
So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
1 hour later and all is working.
Hope this helps.
Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.
More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.
If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:
First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-
Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.
So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
1 hour later and all is working.
Hope this helps.
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