Adding extra power points in cab X290 (1 Viewer)

Sep 24, 2013
1,302
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I want to add a couple of 12v outlets in the cab just above the cupholders. What with extra LED lighting for the speedo, dashcam, gps speedo etc., the wiring needs tidying up. That’s before the navigator wants to plug in the tablet to look for sites. Where is best to take off the 12v feed?
 
Apr 6, 2019
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FourWinds Windsport 6.8L V10
Why not from existing 12v socket?

Or this might help.

 

I2C

Feb 2, 2015
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There are a lot of ways you can do this, it depends how comfortable you are playing with van electrics. If only on when the key is in the ignition then I take them off the cigarette lighter live feed, just remember there is a fuse somewhere so don't take more power than it can handle. After that I piggyback off a fuse in the fuse box depending on my needs, dashcam, off a fuse that is only on when the engine is, if it's for one live all the time I find a relevant fuse (radio's have a constant feed now-a-days) and piggyback off that.

As I said, many ways to do it which is why I can't say use one method over another as everyone has their own ideas/thoughts which is best.

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Minxy

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Aug 22, 2007
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Since 1996, had Elddis/Swift/Rapido/Rimor/Chausson MHs. Autocruise/Globecar PVCs/Compactline i-138
When we had the Globecar Campscout I put in a twin 12v socket above the small shelf on the right of the dash near the 'A' pillar which was connected directly to the cab battery with an inline fuse; this was to plug our rear view camera and monitor into and anything else we wish to power whilst travelling although they were also used at any time as they were always powered. I did this rather than permanently connect the camera/monitor to the ignition as I didn't want to alter the existing base vehicle electrics for warranty purposes. This could be done on the passenger side too if required.

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stevec
Sep 24, 2013
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Thanks everyone. I've taken the supply from the existing 12V sockets. The wiring is much neater now.I just need to get a dual USB socket to fit in the panel above the cup holders.

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stevewagner

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May 14, 2013
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Yonks
I would never piggy back, off another fused supply because the circuit is designed for a particular current requirement. I just swapped the two 12 volt sockets for 2 double USB sockets.
 
Jan 19, 2014
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I put a socket in the lift up flap glove box under the windscreen for the TomTom. Wired it straight to a permanent +ve fuse via a mini rocker switch next to the socket.

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Jan 8, 2013
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stevec
Sep 24, 2013
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I would never piggy back, off another fused supply because the circuit is designed for a particular current requirement. I just swapped the two 12 volt sockets for 2 double USB sockets.
Each of the two 12v sockets is protected by a 15 amp fuse in the engine bay. I've piggy backed off one of these sockets to fit a double 2.1 amp USB socket so max 25 watts (allowing some losses in conversion). I'm running a dashcam from one USB and intend to fit a GPS speedo into the other. Both permanently wired. Oh, and I have two 12v LEDS for the instrument pod. So the power budget is still over 10 amps. I use the unmodified 12V socket to run the tyre inflator which really gobbles the amps. So much so that switching it on when connected to the tyre (and therefore fully loaded) it blows the 15A fuse. I now start the inflator before connecting to the tyre valve. This gives a gradual increase in load.

Proper engineering practice would, of course, be to provide a separate fused supply as you state.
 
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