Adding extra power points in cab X290

[stevec]

I want to add a couple of 12v outlets in the cab just above the cupholders. What with extra LED lighting for the speedo, dashcam, gps speedo etc., the wiring needs tidying up. That’s before the navigator wants to plug in the tablet to look for sites. Where is best to take off the 12v feed?

 

[Jev88]

Why not from existing 12v socket?

Or this might help.

Continuation of modernising of our elderly Kon-Tiki, extra USB in cab.

I've been adding USB ports to the hab area of our elderly Swift Kon-Tiki, some on the hab battery for wild camping & some on 240v to make sure that we're sorted wherever we are. Today I installed a new USB port to the cab area. There are already two USB points on the radio, but only one is a...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

 

[I2C]

There are a lot of ways you can do this, it depends how comfortable you are playing with van electrics. If only on when the key is in the ignition then I take them off the cigarette lighter live feed, just remember there is a fuse somewhere so don't take more power than it can handle. After that I piggyback off a fuse in the fuse box depending on my needs, dashcam, off a fuse that is only on when the engine is, if it's for one live all the time I find a relevant fuse (radio's have a constant feed now-a-days) and piggyback off that.

As I said, many ways to do it which is why I can't say use one method over another as everyone has their own ideas/thoughts which is best.

 

[Minxy]

When we had the Globecar Campscout I put in a twin 12v socket above the small shelf on the right of the dash near the 'A' pillar which was connected directly to the cab battery with an inline fuse; this was to plug our rear view camera and monitor into and anything else we wish to power whilst travelling although they were also used at any time as they were always powered. I did this rather than permanently connect the camera/monitor to the ignition as I didn't want to alter the existing base vehicle electrics for warranty purposes. This could be done on the passenger side too if required.

www

 

[SpeedyDux]

I bought one like this (a similar though not exact model) which fits in FIAT's ashtray holder.

Amazon product ASIN B0769G4JGD

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[stevec]

Thanks everyone. I've taken the supply from the existing 12V sockets. The wiring is much neater now.I just need to get a dual USB socket to fit in the panel above the cup holders.

 

[Stewart J]

My solution direct to vehicle battery via a switch and an inline fuse

 

[stevewagner]

I would never piggy back, off another fused supply because the circuit is designed for a particular current requirement. I just swapped the two 12 volt sockets for 2 double USB sockets.

 

[Richard n Ann]

I put a socket in the lift up flap glove box under the windscreen for the TomTom. Wired it straight to a permanent +ve fuse via a mini rocker switch next to the socket.

 

[Stealaway]

I want to add a couple of 12v outlets in the cab just above the cupholders.

I fitted a small extra panel with voltmeters to monitor cab and hab batteries - bit like this one

Campervan 12v Dual Usb Socket Cigarette Charger Voltmeter Surface Mount Panel | eBay

Upgrade your campervan or motorhome with our 12v Dual USB Socket and Cigarette Charger Voltmeter. This surface-mounted panel features 2 USB ports (2.1A & 1A), a blue LED digital voltmeter, and a 10A cigarette socket. It's waterproof, dustproof, and comes with connectors and screws for easy...

www.ebay.co.uk

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[stevec]

I would never piggy back, off another fused supply because the circuit is designed for a particular current requirement. I just swapped the two 12 volt sockets for 2 double USB sockets.

Each of the two 12v sockets is protected by a 15 amp fuse in the engine bay. I've piggy backed off one of these sockets to fit a double 2.1 amp USB socket so max 25 watts (allowing some losses in conversion). I'm running a dashcam from one USB and intend to fit a GPS speedo into the other. Both permanently wired. Oh, and I have two 12v LEDS for the instrument pod. So the power budget is still over 10 amps. I use the unmodified 12V socket to run the tyre inflator which really gobbles the amps. So much so that switching it on when connected to the tyre (and therefore fully loaded) it blows the 15A fuse. I now start the inflator before connecting to the tyre valve. This gives a gradual increase in load.

Proper engineering practice would, of course, be to provide a separate fused supply as you state.