3way fridge thermal gel replacement ? (1 Viewer)

[Lenny HB]

Does anyone know of the copper coloured heat sink compound is the same as copper slip used as anti seize paste?

Totally different.

 

[Two on Tour]

Does anyone know of the copper coloured heat sink compound is the same as copper slip used as anti seize paste?

I would imagine that they are totally different as they have totally different uses, but try it and let us know how you get on.

 

[RM_Marine]

There is a section on here all about this, we all used GD900 Thermal paste

GD900 30gThermal Paste Grease Heatsink Efficient Heat Dissipation Gel-Cream F3K0 | eBay

Used to connect heating unit with heat sink, reach better heat dissipation effect. Application: CPU/GPU/LED Heat Dissipation. Item Type: Thermally Conductive Silicone Gel Cream. 1 Thermally Conductive Silicone Gel Cream.

www.ebay.co.uk

From ebay

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[Richard n Ann]

You might just get away with turning the thermostat right up to the warmest position if you fit fans onto fins with the attached thermostat phial.

Presuming the Dometic stats are quite similar to the Danfosss No.4 below.
Warmest setting cut out is -1°c

The usual domestic fridge thermostat is the No.3 which does have a much colder range.

Edit: also depends how close the fan air stream is to the phial of course.

 

[Chris+Tracy]

I would expect copper slip and heat transfer paste were totally different products.

 

[Two on Tour]

When we bought our present MH the fridge/freeze performance was woefully poor, and it became an obsession of mine to get it doing what I felt it should be doing.
After many mods and additions, some rather extreme, it looks like I may have finally beaten it into submission.
My last mod on our Dometic RMSL5801 was to extend the burner chimney from its existing finishing point which was midway up the back of our F/F unit right to the top back corner of the top vent.
Its real first test was at last weekend at the Newark meeting. We have 5 temperature settings on our F/F and normally the best setting is on number 4, but after the chimney mod, this has now dropped to number 2 and stepped up to number 3 mid-afternoon with the sun directly on the F/F side of the van to get 4c in the fridge.

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[Lenny HB]

When we bought our present MH the fridge/freeze performance was woefully poor, and it became an obsession of mine to get it doing what I felt it should be doing.
After many mods and additions, some rather extreme, it looks like I may have finally beaten it into submission.
My last mod on our Dometic RMSL5801 was to extend the burner chimney from its existing finishing point which was midway up the back of our F/F unit right to the top back corner of the top vent.
Its real first test was at last weekend at the Newark meeting. We have 5 temperature settings on our F/F and normally the best setting is on number 4, but after the chimney mod, this has now dropped to number 2 and stepped up to number 3 mid-afternoon with the sun directly on the F/F side of the van to get 4c in the fridge.

Interesting do you have any photos?

 

[Two on Tour]

Interesting do you have any photos?

I can certainly take some for you, back in a mo.

 

[Two on Tour]

Okay Lenny, the chimney mod has been through a few changes of length to see what effects it had, hence the changes of tubing material in the photos.

The original Dometic angled chimney was fitted as the chimney exited the insulated chimney cover.
The top section is an old silicone radiator top hose that I had laying about and the curves suited getting the outlet close to the inside of the top fridge vent.
I think that the extra length of the chimney is holding the heat for a longer time against the boiler rather than it being drawn up the chimney quickly, so needing less heat input.
Would be interested in your views.

One of the other things I did not like about our F/F installation was the excessive gap between the condenser and evaporator fins and the wall of our van as the air being drawn up from the bottom vent would in my view not be drawn onto the condenser fins as we as if the gap was narrower, so I made and fitted an aluminum and styrofoam arrangement to reduce the gap.
I also found that the best position for the thermistor for the digital extractor fans controller was about 2/3rds along the condenser fins touching the pipe.


Orginal Dometic chimney top

Top vent with 3 x 140mm high CFM fans that can be each indevidually switch on or off if needed.

Another 140mm high CFM fan sucking in air in the bottom vent that can be switched on or off and this has
a 5 second delay in starting after the top vent fans have started.

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[Two on Tour]

Forgot to say that I have removed the fly mesh off to the vent covers to get better airflow through the vents.

 

[MitchandJenny]

Surprising how the temperature varies in these fridges compared to a domestic one. Must be due to the tall thin shape and having the cooling fins right at the top.

Cold drops and heat rises.
Simples
Mitch

 

[Lenny HB]

Cold drops and heat rises.
Simples
Mitch

Unless its a Dometic fridge where the bottom is a lot warmer than the top.

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[ManTheVan]

Okay Lenny, the chimney mod has been through a few changes of length to see what effects it had, hence the changes of tubing material in the photos.

The original Dometic angled chimney was fitted as the chimney exited the insulated chimney cover.
The top section is an old silicone radiator top hose that I had laying about and the curves suited getting the outlet close to the inside of the top fridge vent.
I think that the extra length of the chimney is holding the heat for a longer time against the boiler rather than it being drawn up the chimney quickly, so needing less heat input.
Would be interested in your views.

One of the other things I did not like about our F/F installation was the excessive gap between the condenser and evaporator fins and the wall of our van as the air being drawn up from the bottom vent would in my view not be drawn onto the condenser fins as we as if the gap was narrower, so I made and fitted an aluminum and styrofoam arrangement to reduce the gap.
I also found that the best position for the thermistor for the digital extractor fans controller was about 2/3rds along the condenser fins touching the pipe.


Orginal Dometic chimney top
View attachment 612379


View attachment 612380

View attachment 612381

View attachment 612382

View attachment 612383


Top vent with 3 x 140mm high CFM fans that can be each indevidually switch on or off if needed.

View attachment 612384


Another 140mm high CFM fan sucking in air in the bottom vent that can be switched on or off and this has
a 5 second delay in starting after the top vent fans have started.

View attachment 612385

Looks great. How did you attach the fans to the grill, out of interest?

 

[Two on Tour]

Looks great. How did you attach the fans to the grill, out of interest?

Self-tappers screwed onto the grille back just the right length to grip into the plastic and only just piercing through to the plastic.
Got the correct length by placing a washer under the head of the self tapper.

 

[Feltwell]

Thought I'd post up the paste replacement with some pictures, help those wavering if to do this or not - it's very easy. Fridge is a Dometic, from 2006.

First off, you might want to remove the top shelf to make access easier - just pull the 2 clips off like the one I'm pointing to below, then slide the whole shelf to the left to free the right hand side from it's mounts.

There's a temperature probe to remove, just push it up a bit to begin with, take it off fully when you remove the cooling fins.

Next, remove the 8 torx head screws - so you'll need a torx driver - from between the fins, and the whole fins unit then just comes away. Clean the remains of any old paste off both the back of the fins and the pipes in the fridge wall.

Then, get the syringe of the paste - I used Halnzie HY610 Gold from Ebay - and just trace it along the black pipes in the back of the fridge.

I used 2 syringes - 1 would have been a bit mean I think. Finished result:-

Then refit and screw back into place the aluminium fins unit, not forgetting the temperature probe has to go back in here:-

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[Simon Meadwell]

Yes same as mine. No need to worry sort of job anybody can do.

 

[Widge]

My other theory is when the better half opens the fridge door she will be met with a blast of cold air from the fans and may shut the door instead of staring into the fridge deciding what to get out and where everything is

Or just sit in front of it

 

[Widge]

Hi has anyone done a Electrolux RM 6401, any tips welcome.

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[Simon Meadwell]

My fridge is dometic but the fins look identical.
Take out top shelf unscrew the screews on show.
Unplug the wire to the fin and gently pull it off.
Scrape off the old paste from the back and gently off the pipes at the rear of the fins. Wipe off with white spirit.
Apply new paste and re fix fins.
It really is as easy as that i was hesitant but anyone could do it.

 

[K R B]

Thanks Tonka

 

[Biker chic]

Fins removed and lots of paste still there and not dry, I have bunched it together to refit or should I replace? Thanks

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[kevenh]

Fins removed and lots of paste still there and not dry, I have bunched it together to refit or should I replace? Thanks
View attachment 649350

I've still not done the paste replacement task on our fridge.
Got the paste ready but not made time to do it, but if that paste is the old stuff I reckon clean it off and use a new paste product.

edit: my "ready to go" paste is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/39375118...d=link&campid=5338547443&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

sorry. don't know where all the extra spam comes from in the link. Make x = t and this is the 'clean' link hxxps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393751181967

 

[Lenny HB]

Fins removed and lots of paste still there and not dry, I have bunched it together to refit or should I replace? Thanks
View attachment 649350

Replace it the stuff they use is cheap rubbish.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Fins removed and lots of paste still there and not dry, I have bunched it together to refit or should I replace? Thanks
View attachment 649350

Definitely clean it all off, including the black pipe work, apply new stuff to the full length of the black pipe. Does the black pipe not loop back again?

It’s not completely dried out but it will be far less efficient than new stuff.

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[Biker chic]

No loop back which seems odd from all the pics I’ve seen

 

[Two on Tour]

Fins removed and lots of paste still there and not dry, I have bunched it together to refit or should I replace? Thanks
View attachment 649350

The thermal paste that Dometic and Thetford apply is very poor in comparison to what's available.
I replaced our thermal paste a few years ago with a high performance GD900 thermal paste which made a big difference to the cooling of our F/F.
To get a good thermal paste cost a few bob if bought in the UK, but you can get GD900 thermal paste from Amazon delivered from China in a couple of weeks (I had 2 x 30g pots delivered this week)
If you can hang on for a couple of weeks, then I would clean off and apply the GD900 when it arrives, or if you need to use your F/F sooner, then refit your fins now with what you have there for the present time, and then do the job when the GD900 arrives.
A 30g pot will be enough for what you need.

Amazon product ASIN B09JFSHZRM

 

[kevenh]

The thermal paste that Dometic and Thetford apply is very poor in comparison to what's available.
I replaced our thermal paste a few years ago with a high performance GD900 thermal paste which made a big difference to the cooling of our F/F.
To get a good thermal paste cost a few bob if bought in the UK, but you can get GD900 thermal paste from Amazon delivered from China in a couple of weeks (I had 2 x 30g pots delivered this week)
If you can hang on for a couple of weeks, then I would clean off and apply the GD900 when it arrives, or if you need to use your F/F sooner, then refit your fins now with what you have there for the present time, and then do the job when the GD900 arrives.
A 30g pot will be enough for what you need.

Amazon product ASIN B09JFSHZRM

That's what I bought - well, I've used the MHF forum to guide me so should be the right paste I ended up with
I spent a little more but it's a kit. That may help the new fridge query or maybe they've got applicators.

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[Two on Tour]

That's what I bought - well, I've used the MHF forum to guide me so should be the right paste I ended up with
I spent a little more but it's a kit. That may help the new fridge query or maybe they've got applicators.
View attachment 649379

Missed that one on eBay as I did a UK search only.
Buying it in a syringe is the better option.
Funster Antique and I replaced his F/F thermal paste with the GD900 this week and it was a bit of a messy job getting thermal paste out of the pot and into a syringe.

 

[Lenny HB]

I used syringes of the copper thermal paste very easy, not quite as good thermal conductivity as the GD900 but more than good enough for the job. Anything is better than what Dometic use.

 

[DuxDeluxe]

Les -post no 75 should give you the information that you need

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