"Camie" the AWD Campervan

[Outdoors Dad]

All batteries can be volatile when malfunctioning not least so the LA batteries that will probably poison you in your sleep before it explodes. What's reassuring about lithium is the software that keeps you informed of any malfunction. Anyways if you don't trust them that's your choice and is respected. I think there's a thread on here that talks you through the pros and cons of AGM and GEL batteries that's definitely worth a read.
In my opinion I would fit a B2B it's a much cleaner, quicker and informed way of charging your batteries. A B2B app might also give you information about any charging irregularities that might harm your batteries. Plus a Durek split charger might only give you 14amp per hour you could get 30-50 with a B2B.
Most new motorhomes are now fitting lithium and all houses that have off grid solar use lithium batteries....in fact 100s and 100s of amps worth all stored conveniently in your garage

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

All that has been put forward is opinion and I'm certainly allowed my own.

Absolutely, one person's opinion is as valid and worth listening to as another's, at least once. if it's based on fact or best evidence, then, imo, their opinion may be worth listening to repeatedly.

Point me at a white paper, independent study etc and I will check it out.
Marketing blurb is usually non science and the linked statements are certainly that, carefully worded to reassure but avoid litigation.

I would agree if someone were to say that that marketing blurb is 'Professional BS'.

Motorhome Makers do not go into details like the type of Leisure battery they fit, on their web sites. They barely say it has an engine fitted. I said I could be wrong, because I read it on a forum and that means diddly squat.

Just take a look at their online mix and youll see for yourself that the high-end ones use LiFePo4. Also install according to customer specification.

I knew when I mentioned the subject it would be contentious, I'll just shut up.

I hope you won't.

 

[matbic]

What evidence, please show me any?
All the articles here are by non experts, that haven't run any tests and are simply trying to justify their purchase. Even the battery manufacturers web sites are very guarded in the claims they make, with little science exposed.
We will just have to disagree on this one, to me, its like saying the Hindenburg was perfectly safe.
It's not what you know, its the unforeseen that will get you every time.

Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries (LiFePO4) don't like being charged 100% or being completely discharged. They require special chargers, different to other Lithium types. They don't like Heat or vibration or impact etc etc. The more constraints you put on something for it to work correctly, the more likely one of those constraints will change beyond your control and cause it to fail. They are very unlikely to go wrong in perfect Laboratory conditions, but they still can and will go wrong. Life on the road can be hard and unexpected things happen. A friend had a tyre explode on his motorhome, took out his rear wheel arch and did loads of internal damage, luckily his "monster" batteries were stored further forward. When it comes to fire hazard, I can't find a statement anywhere from a serious sauce, that says LiFePO4 batteries wont burn. But many quotes of "reduced chance of thermal run away", which between the lines, means they still can run away. Every article points out they are inherently safer, but that's compared to other forms of Lithium battery and fail to mention that this actually means they still pose a risk. It's marketing bull to circumvent the issue.
Google "Lithium leisure battery fire risk" and see what the AI response is (I know, not the best of sources).
It's weird, that folks worry about and avoid, fitting LPG in their vans, yet will string together a Lithium Battery based system without a care.

Just to make sure this debate does not get two types of “lithium” battery confused.

There are Cobalt based lithium battery, these include nickel manganese cobalt (NMC); lithium cobalt oxide (LCO); and nickel cobalt aluminum oxide (NCA). These type are used in small devices like phones, scooters, e-bikes. There are many examples of these batteries getting damaged and being a fire risk.

There are also LiFePo4 or LFP batteries which have no cobalt in them. These have a much more stable chemistry and do not have the same fire risk. If a LiFePo4 battery also has a good quality battery management system (BMS) to control the charging they are suitable for RV applications. It is difficult to find any examples of this type of battery being a fire risk.

When I searched in google for “Lithium leisure battery fire risk” I only found references to e-bike fires with cobalt based batteries.

 

[Otter Spotter]

You really should read up on the differences between LiFePo4 and Lithium-ion.

This might provide more info for you (and others)

LiFePO4 Vs Lithium Ion & Other Batteries - Why They’re #1

LiFePO4 batteries are widely considered the best, but what makes them better than lithium ion & other types of batteries? And what IS a LiFePO4 battery?

lithiumhub.com

Do Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries Catch Fire

Lithium Iron Phosphate ((LiFePO4 or LFP)) batteries are incombustible, meaning they will not burn when exposed to fire or when mishandled during rapid charges and discharges or when there are short circuit issues. Manufacturers across industries turn to LFP for applications where safety is a factor.

www.dtgpower.com

How safe are LiFePO4 batteries?

While no battery is completely immune to accidents, LiFePO4 batteries have an impressive track record when it comes to safety. Their ability to handle higher temperatures and withstand overcharging makes them a reliable choice for a wide range of applications.

www.fogstar.co.uk

Thank you, I haven’t found time to research as you have.
I think Qwin has an aversion to All Lith batteries and with his past experiences with Jaguars Landrover I suspect with their massive EV mistakes, he has his own sound reasons

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

Thank you, I haven’t found time to research as you have.
I think Qwin has an aversion to All Lith batteries and with his past experiences with Jaguars Landrover I suspect with their massive EV mistakes, he has his own sound reasons

Not just EV mistakes. Mercedes didn't dump their style/brand when making their cars appeal to younger drivers as well as older ones.
They made them evolve successfully with models now, that appeal to various age groups and tastes. Different trim levels/types just for such purposes.

If there were any reasoning or business case at all behind the JLR decisions of recent times, especially last year, I'd be keen to know. Jag seems to have dumped a whole family (not just one baby), with the bathwater.

Aside from slipped bearings, oil dilution, other euro6 issues, the XJ was brilliant very good. The PACE one's had no Jaguarishness about them. Could've been almost any brand.

So all top brands - RR, Bentley, Audi, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, even VW; when youre inside them, you know which one it is.

If the new jaguar branding is about one person's vision or 'all about him', he can have it all. I'll buy something else entirely and I suggest I'm not the only one.

Oh, and to end my rant, I considered Jag after dumping my plan to buy Range Rover. Why would I buy something that's more likely than not, to snap a crankshaft?!'.

Rant over lol

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[Qwin]

Back on subject, and a little about my circumstances and thinking on this build.

I'm 68 and Arthritis is setting in badly, I used to think nothing of picking up an engine with my bare hands, but I've lost 60% of my strength in the last 12 months, some mornings I struggle to hold a kettle with one hand. I realized, if I didn't do this build within the next 18 months, I probably wouldn't be capable beyond that. I don't have a garage or workshop and a limited number of power tools, so somewhat hampered, however, I've always been up for a challenge .

As stated from the start, one of my main concerns is weight and to some extent, this will take precedence over appearance for appearance sake. I'll always consider alternative suggestions, but as yet, no one has offered anything to match my soffit board ceiling for weight. Light weight 3mm Poplar Ply is slightly lighter, but it needs finishing in some way and would need joining strips to hide the joints, required on my LWB plus I don't consider multiple screw fixings to be pretty. The soffit boards are 5m long, hollow, form a bit of a vapour barrier and have thermal properties as an air barrier. Practically, they have a lot going for them, I'm on the fence with appearance, but many builders use tong and groove pine boards. Many of my views are controversial, I don't like round downlights in the ceiling for instance. They look good, but give pools of light, to bright directly under them and you can guarantee, not enough where you are working. More even strip or concealed reflected light, would be preferable (hence a white ceiling).

I had a Boxer based Elddis motorhome, the construction of which, like all commercial builds, was very light weight. I had a job to find anywhere I could fix a screw, because walls/dividers were thinly skinned foam. The roof was an Aluminium/foam sandwich, the overhead lockers had a thin ply base and dividers and all doors were a frame with a very thin ply filling. The Owners manual suggested only light weight items should be stored overhead and heavier items should be kept in the lower cabinets and in the under bed lockers.

Even with this light weight construction, by the time I got all my paraphernalia in the van, wind breaks, outdoor furniture etc. With two adults a full tank of fuel and water, I was stotting off my weight limit and she handled like a pig. So this is what I am trying to avoid with this build. I have a 3500kg total limit and decent back axle limit of 2250kg on my van, but my Transit AWD has more heavy Transmission parts than a 2WD, so less weight available for me to play with. Also worth noting, a RWD or AWD Transit has 100mm less headroom inside, than a FWD Transit, model for model. This is due to the floor being raised to accommodate the rear Diff compared to a simple beam axle. I was aware of all this before purchasing, but still wanted the advantages of AWD, due to my bad experiences of getting stuck.

What also concerns me, are the builds I see on YouTube. Lockers made of heavy construction, with 15mm ply dividers and heavy door fronts. Ceilings that weigh up to 100kg, Kitchen units from Ikea that were meant for home installation. One guys pride and joy was his 40mm Oak worktop, waxing lyrically about his regular oiling of it, have you tried lifting that stuff? So, how many of these vans have ever been weighed on completion? It's not something I see discussed very often, other than a lot of people saying they are conscious about weight and many saying they wish they had gone for a lighter construction.

One chap did mention weight a lot, don't ask me for a link, I've looked at far to much and due to being slightly dyslexic don't have a memory for details, facts and figures, I have to write everything down and have so many books and journals, that I can't find where I've written stuff. Perhaps I need a journal for that . He pointed out in his Vid. that, in order to fit particular items that were a bit weighty, he made other items light weight to compensate. However, he weighed his van when completed and it came in a fraction over 3200kg. But then stated this was without passengers, only half a tank of fuel and water, no food or clothing and no gas bottles. I think he would really struggle to keep under his weight limit. He said he was considering, uprating his rear springs and changing his V5/plated limit, I don't think he had much of a choice. It's fairly easy to downgrade, but I don't believe its as straight forward to upgrade your limit. This would also put him into class C1 license. I'm only two years off 70 and don't want the hassle and expense of having a medical and getting a doctor to fill in a form every two years (they charge for each and its not an NHS service) just to keep my C1 category. So 3500Kg is my maximum and to be honest, vans, whether motorhomes or box vans, handle lousy at their limits. Most box vans run around half empty and on the few occasions they are maxed out, the brakes, suspension and engine are usually also at their limits.

So a lighter build, with better handling and less strain on the vehicle is where I'm headed.
I will weigh my bare van and also when empty after the build, just to see what I've added. Then again when fully loaded with everything. It will be interesting to know these things. I'm a pensioner, so my budget isn't bottomless, but hope to create a practical build which is easy to live with.

I'm waiting on delivery of my Skylight and after that's fitted, either the floor or ceiling will be next, so I need to firm up some of my choices and put in anchorages to suit.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Back on subject, and a little about my circumstances and thinking on this build.

I'm 68 and Arthritis is setting in badly, I used to think nothing of picking up an engine with my bare hands, but I've lost 60% of my strength in the last 12 months, some mornings I struggle to hold a kettle with one hand. I realized, if I didn't do this build within the next 18 months, I probably wouldn't be capable beyond that. I don't have a garage or workshop and a limited number of power tools, so somewhat hampered, however, I've always been up for a challenge .

As stated from the start, one of my main concerns is weight and to some extent, this will take precedence over appearance for appearance sake. I'll always consider alternative suggestions, but as yet, no one has offered anything to match my soffit board ceiling for weight. Light weight 3mm Poplar Ply is slightly lighter, but it needs finishing in some way and would need joining strips to hide the joints, required on my LWB plus I don't consider multiple screw fixings to be pretty. The soffit boards are 5m long, hollow, form a bit of a vapour barrier and have thermal properties as an air barrier. Practically, they have a lot going for them, I'm on the fence with appearance, but many builders use tong and groove pine boards. Many of my views are controversial, I don't like round downlights in the ceiling for instance. They look good, but give pools of light, to bright directly under them and you can guarantee, not enough where you are working. More even strip or concealed reflected light, would be preferable (hence a white ceiling).

I had a Boxer based Elddis motorhome, the construction of which, like all commercial builds, was very light weight. I had a job to find anywhere I could fix a screw, because walls/dividers were thinly skinned foam. The roof was an Aluminium/foam sandwich, the overhead lockers had a thin ply base and dividers and all doors were a frame with a very thin ply filling. The Owners manual suggested only light weight items should be stored overhead and heavier items should be kept in the lower cabinets and in the under bed lockers.

By the time I got all my paraphernalia in the van, wind breaks, outdoor furniture etc, with two adults a full tank of fuel and water, I was stotting off my weight limit and she handled like a pig. So this is what I am trying to avoid with this build. I have a 3500kg total limit and decent back axle limit of 2250kg on my van, but my Transit AWD has more heavy Transmission parts than a 2WD, so less weight available for me to play with. Also worth noting, a RWD or AWD Transit has 100mm less headroom inside, than a FWD Transit, model for model. This is due to the floor being raised to accommodate the rear Diff compared to a simple beam axle. I was aware of all this before purchasing, but still wanted the advantages of AWD, due to my bad experiences of getting stuck.

What also concerns me, are the builds I see on YouTube. Lockers made of heavy construction, with 15mm ply dividers and heavy door fronts. Ceilings that weigh up to 100kg, Kitchen units from Ikea that were meant for home installation. One guys pride and joy was his 40mm Oak worktop, waxing lyrically about his regular oiling of it, have you tried lifting that stuff? So, how many of these vans have ever been weighed on completion? It's not something I see discussed very often, other than a lot of people saying they are conscious about weight and many saying they wish they had gone for a lighter construction.

One chap did mention weight a lot, don't ask me for a link, I've looked at far to much and due to being slightly dyslexic don't have a memory for details, facts and figures, I have to write everything down and have so many books and journals, that I can't find where I've written stuff. Perhaps I need a journal for that . He pointed out in his Vid. that, in order to fit particular items that were a bit weighty, he made other items light weight to compensate. However, he weighed his van when completed and it came in a fraction over 3200kg. But then stated this was without passengers, only half a tank of fuel and water, no food or clothing and no gas bottles. I think he would really struggle to keep under his weight limit. He said he was considering, uprating his rear springs and changing his V5/plated limit, I don't think he had much of a choice. It's fairly easy to downgrade, but I don't believe its as straight forward to upgrade your limit. This would also put him into class C1 license. I'm only two years off 70 and don't want the hassle and expense of having a medical and getting a doctor to fill in a form every two years (they charge for each and its not an NHS service) just to keep my C1 category, so 3500 is my maximum and to be honest, vans, whether motorhomes or box vans handle lousy at their limits. Most box vans run around half empty and on the few occasions they are maxed out, the brakes, suspension and engine are usually also at their limits.

So a lighter build, with better handling and less strain on the vehicle is where I'm headed.
I will weigh my empty van and also when empty after the build, just to see what I've added. Then again when fully loaded with everything. It will be interesting to know these things.

I'm waiting on delivery of my Skylight and after that's fitted, either the floor or ceiling will be next, so I need to firm up some of my choices and put in anchorages to suit.

Take a look at utuber Humble road he uses 80x20 aluminium for framing and it is very light but extremely strong. I had my bed frame/bench seats made of the smaller even lighter 20x20 and that is so light. Humble road is very switched on and comes up with some great ideas.
I totally agree you don’t want to go down the T&G route, it looks naff and weights to much compared to say 20x20 and 15mm light weight board from Vohringer or Moreland.
There is another European company making overhead cabinets which bolt on called Vandermoon.com these look very good but may be expensive, these would save weight and time in building.

 

[Qwin]

@ otter spotter
I hear what you are saying, when it comes to building the beds, Aluminium could work for me.
The problem with off the shelf modular cabinets, is they presume each piece is free standing. So, like with home based kitchen units, joining two units creates a double wall which is wasting space and adding weight, but that's the only way they can do it, as the end application is an unknown. I checked out a base unit for my kitchen area but it was seriously beyond my budget, the MDF stuff is way to heavy and don't ever get it wet. I'm thinking of making everything, to keep the cost down, but also the weight, where I can build lockers to my spec and between existing verticals, just adding a front and base to them. I'll check out those companies you mentioned, as I'm not familiar with their products.
Its times like this, I really miss not having access to CAD. I would have had every screw and nail exactly positioned and my living space walked round and checked out for door clash etc.

 

[Lenny HB]

The solar panels should keep pace with the fridge and two 110Ah AGM batteries enough for its cycling overnight.

AGM is a out the worst type of battery for leisure use if you want to keep to lead acid either fit standard LA Gel.

Okay my first question.
Is a DC to DC charger really necessary?

Not with LA but it helps and you won't regret it.

Sleeping over a 200Ah Lithium, if it went off, you probably wouldn't even know about it.

LifeP04 used for leisure batteries about the safest battery you can by far safer than LA

I have an EHU at my house so the van will be connected and an Oil filled Thermostatic controlled radiator will keep the frost away.

Not neccessary better left unheated.

My motorhome disconnected the Leisure battery when the engine was started, eg all the lights would go out.

Only happens in Brit built Motorhomes.

 

[Terry]

Qwin/Ken you will be pushed to exceed 3tons if using lightweight furniture ply and 3mm finished ply for walls ceilings etc as I’ve already said 3mm finished ply approx 5/6 kg and I quoted 18 mm finished ply at 22kg so if you used 12mm or 15 mm this alone would knock off about 6/7kg a board making them 15kg a board-used 9 x 3 mm and 10x 12/15 mm making all the furniture /linings in the van less than 220 kg these are finished boards so not in the grand scheme of things Heavy or going to look like a glorified shed. I suggest you look at Magnums web site and go from there and see what you want/need. You will be hard pushed to spend more than 6/8k on everything for a very nice build. Of course you can spend a lot less say 2/3 k but that won’t come close in quality and will reflect when you eventually come to sell.

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[TheMobileWanderer]

Thank you, I haven’t found time to research as you have.
I think Qwin has an aversion to All Lith batteries and with his past experiences with Jaguars Landrover I suspect with their massive EV mistakes, he has his own sound reasons

Well, in an effort to obtain clarity, I have contacted London Fire Commissioner to establish (if possible), what the risk might be with LiFePo4 and have pointed out that in many cases they are stored under the user's bed, in the motorhome. I suggested that that may create more potential danger than Lithium-ion on a bike frame in a shed, all else being equal.
The matter is already passed to the Alternative Fuel and Petroleum Team, which will get back to me.

 

[Lenny HB]

Gas wise your gas locker should be metal lined with drop vents,

Never seen that in any Motorhome, had has 3 Hymers and now a Carthago, all standard woodwork.

 

[Qwin]

Not much luck with the Morland site, no information on their lightweight Ply.
Pretty much pointless promoting light weight if you don't sate its properties.
I've asked for the Kg/Msq on the bare 12 and 15mm thickness, which I will feed back if they respond.
The coated will be fractionally heavier, but it will give folks a ball park figure.

 

[Qwin]

Well, in an effort to obtain clarity, I have contacted London Fire Commissioner to establish (if possible), what the risk might be with LiFePo4 and have pointed out that in many cases they are stored under the user's bed, in the motorhome. I suggested that that may create more potential danger than Lithium-ion on a bike frame in a shed, all else being equal.
The matter is already passed to the Alternative Fuel and Petroleum Team, which will get back to me.

I will be interested in their response

 

[Terry]

Never seen that in any Motorhome, had has 3 Hymers and now a Carthago, all standard woodwork.

They are recommendations for UK. My mate who is a engineer (converts American single wheels caravans to twin wheeled so they can be used on UK roads) along with all the qualifications for lpg and on caravan etc for the last 30 plus years and can give habitation /damp checks will not give a Hab check to any vehicle that has not got a correctly lined gas locker or out of date Gas pipes etc, until they are changed.
If Howard tells me that’s what it should be/needed I trust him to know a lot more than me or anyone on a forum or works in a factory who think they know.

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[TheMobileWanderer]

Not much luck with the Moorland site, no information on their lightweight Ply.
Pretty much pointless promoting light weight if you don't sate its properties.
I've asked for the Kg/Msq on the bare 12 and 15mm thickness, which I will feed back if they respond.
The coated will be fractionally heavier, but it will give folks a ball park figure.

Have a search for Birch Plywood. It's said to be light and very strong, ideal for cabinetry.

 

[Lenny HB]

will not give a Hab check to any vehicle that has not got a correctly lined gas

That would rule out practically every commercial made Motorhome and caravan in Europe.

 

[Terry]

I will be interested in their response

Ken I have given you ball park figures try reading Moorlands web site gives you weights etc but they take some findingThey are only interested in selling you overpriced sheets or pallets full (50sheets) try Magnums or O’Leary

 

[Qwin]

TheMobileWanderer
I've used a lot of furniture grade (without voids) Baltic Birch, building loud speaker cabinets and that's very heavy.
There is an eccentric designer in the states, that built out an entire van using PIR foam sheets, even the cupboards, just for the hell of it. He designed a jig to cut the joints to hold it all together. Its on YouTube somewhere.

 

[Terry]

That would rule out practically every commercial made Motorhome and caravan in Europe.

No because they are not made in UK so our rules don’t apply-figure that out

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[Otter Spotter]

@ otter spotter
I hear what you are saying, when it comes to building the beds, Aluminium could work for me.
The problem with off the shelf modular cabinets, is they presume each piece is free standing. So, like with home based kitchen units, joining two units creates a double wall which is wasting space and adding weight, but that's the only way they can do it, as the end application is an unknown. I checked out a base unit for my kitchen area but it was seriously beyond my budget, the MDF stuff is way to heavy and don't ever get it wet. I'm thinking of making everything, to keep the cost down, but also the weight, where I can build lockers to my spec and between existing verticals, just adding a front and base to them. I'll check out those companies you mentioned, as I'm not familiar with their products.
Its times like this, I really miss not having access to CAD. I would have had every screw and nail exactly positioned and my living space walked round and checked out for door clash etc.

Vandermoons offering is for overhead storage not floor standing yet. Personally I wouldn't use Morland boards I think Vohringer is better quality and holds screws better.
If you have a table saw or guided jigsaw you could easily build your own cabinets but if you are not a sheet cutter practice on some cheap ply first !!

I see your in Carlisle, take a look at Solway Camper conversions, they sell lightweight panels to convertors, great if you want a sharpe clean look to your internal walls etc. https://solwaycamperconversions.co.uk/online-shop

 

[Qwin]

Ken I have given you ball park figures try reading Moorlands web site gives you weights etc but they take some findingThey are only interested in selling you overpriced sheets or pallets full (50sheets) try Magnums or O’Leary

I was responding to the battery safety/ London Fire commission.
But will check out the companies you refer to.
I couldn't find the Tech details anywhere on the Morland site, the spec sheet didn't have the weight. It was probably right under my nose.

 

[Qwin]

Vandermoons offering is for overhead storage not floor standing yet. Personally I wouldn't use Morland boards I think Vohringer is better quality and holds screws better.
If you have a table saw or guided jigsaw you could easily build your own cabinets but if you are not a sheet cutter practice on some cheap ply first !!

I see your in Carlisle, take a look at Solway Camper conversions, they sell lightweight panels to convertors, great if you want a sharpe clean look to your internal walls etc. https://solwaycamperconversions.co.uk/online-shop

I have pretty good skills with timber, Lathe, milling, welding and spraying, just lack any of the equipment.
A friend has a table saw I can use.
Here are some of my DIY HiFi efforts, made on the kitchen table using hand tools.

 

[Otter Spotter]

I have pretty good skills with timber, Lathe, milling, welding and spraying, just lack any of the equipment.
A friend has a table saw I can use.
Here are some of my DIY HiFi efforts, made on the kitchen table using hand tools.

You will knock it the park looking at those cabinets, very nice

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

They are recommendations for UK. My mate who is a engineer (converts American single wheels caravans to twin wheeled so they can be used on UK roads) along with all the qualifications for lpg and on caravan etc for the last 30 plus years and can give habitation /damp checks will not give a Hab check to any vehicle that has not got a correctly lined gas locker or out of date Gas pipes etc, until they are changed.
If Howard tells me that’s what it should be/needed I trust him to know a lot more than me or anyone on a forum or works in a factory who think they know.

This is copied from the link beneath:
Regulation 2 (General interpretation and application)

(5) Nothing in these Regulations shall apply in relation to the supply of gas to, or anything done in respect of a gas fitting on –

(a) a self-propelled vehicle except when such vehicle is –

(i) hired out in the course of a business; or

(ii) made available to members of the public in the course of a business carried on from that vehicle

https://vandercampadventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HSE-GSIUR.pdf

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[Terry]

It’s 6 years since I converted a van and at that time Howard wouldn’t give me a Hab check that included gas without the locker being lined. That made it easier to sell so it was a easy job and no hassle for a Hab /gas certificate

 

[Happy Jack]

Okay my first question.
Is a DC to DC charger really necessary?

My ethos for this build is keep it simple and keep it lightweight.
I was planning on keeping the vehicle and living space electricals completely separate.
Two solar panels totalling 350/400w and nothing connected with to much current draw, a small compressor fridge being the heaviest user. So no TV or Microwave, Gas oven/hobs and water heater. Small users like LED lighting, phone chargers and very short time laptop use via an inverter.
The solar panels should keep pace with the fridge and two 110Ah AGM batteries enough for its cycling overnight.
The batteries would be fully charged by solar while sitting on my drive and while driving to my destination.
Do I really need another box and wiring to allow the alternator to charge the leisure batteries?
Maybe for van lifers and heavy users, but is it needed for my touring and light electrical demand?
What have people found in real world scenarios?

We are the same as you, heaviest use is average 2.2Ah from the 12v compressor fridge/freezer. Have diesel hob and diesel heating.
We have 2 x 95A AGM (180A), effective 95.
Have been OK most of the time for the last 4 years but there have been more than a handful of times when we have gone below 50%, which can cause damage to the batteries.
And many occasions when we have been close to 50%.
It gives you battery anxiety.
12 hours overnight takes 27 Amps out, you just need 1 cloudy day and your looking dodgy by the next morning.
We are going to Lithium later this year.

 

[Happy Jack]

Vandermoons offering is for overhead storage not floor standing yet. Personally I wouldn't use Morland boards I think Vohringer is better quality and holds screws better.
If you have a table saw or guided jigsaw you could easily build your own cabinets but if you are not a sheet cutter practice on some cheap ply first !!

I see your in Carlisle, take a look at Solway Camper conversions, they sell lightweight panels to convertors, great if you want a sharpe clean look to your internal walls etc. https://solwaycamperconversions.co.uk/online-shop

We used Solway panels on ours.
Used lightweight Moreland boards also.
Total weight in almost worst case scenario (all tanks nearly full) and everything we take with us was 3100Kgs ( 1600 front, 1500 rear).
Some pics of the build.

 

[Qwin]

We are the same as you, heaviest use is average 2.2Ah from the 12v compressor fridge/freezer. Have diesel hob and diesel heating.
We have 2 x 95A AGM (180A), effective 95.
Have been OK most of the time for the last 4 years but there have been more than a handful of times when we have gone below 50%, which can cause damage to the batteries.
And many occasions when we have been close to 50%.
It gives you battery anxiety.
12 hours overnight takes 27 Amps out, you just need 1 cloudy day and your looking dodgy by the next morning.
We are going to Lithium later this year.

Hi
I know what you mean about battery anxiety, we only had a small solar panel and small AGM battery on the previous motor home, our usage was small as we had a gas fridge, but still.
What is your solar panel output?
Just curious as to the total set up are you are using.
I'm warming to Lithium (pardon the pun) but not quite there yet.
It's the last stage of the project after fitting out, so still time to way it all up.

 

[Happy Jack]

Hi
I know what you mean about battery anxiety, we only had a small solar panel and small AGM battery on the previous motor home, our usage was small as we had a gas fridge, but still.
What is your solar panel output?
Just curious as to the total set up are you are using.
I'm warming to Lithium (pardon the pun) but not quite there yet.
It's the last stage of the project after fitting out, so still time to way it all up.

We have 300W solar on the roof going through a Victron 100/30 mppt controller. 2x95A AGM batteries. EHU input into consumer unit with 30mA trip and the only thing connected to it is the Sargent battery charger.  No 240v in use, apart from charging the batteries.
When I go to Lithium will probably be 1 off 280A, and will also fit a B2B.

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