"Camie" the AWD Campervan

[Qwin]

I have a Blog for my Campervan Project Here
This thread will be a summery of the main events only, if you want the whole nine yards, without comments or questions, then use the link above to my Blog.

I had a moterhome, a Boxer based Elddis Autoquest 300.
FWD with a lot of weight at the back, I kept getting stuck in muddy fields due to poor traction.
I considered RWD + Limited Slip Differential (LSD), but finally settled on an All Wheel Drive (AWD) self build.
This didn't leave many options, basically a Sprinter or Transit.
Due to cost constraints, a Transit was my choice and a long wheel base high roof seemed the best option for a conversion. This quite specific feature set made it a rare beast, but I managed to track one down in March of this year.

This is my donor vehicle.........

A late 2020 Transit Leader 350 L3H3 AWD Ecoblue (Euro6/ULEZ compliant)
It came with new wet belts, water pump, battery, new discs all round, full service, MOT and 6 months written warranty. A good base vehicle for my first Camper project, the wife named it "Campie" the Campervan and so we begin.

 

[Go_buddy_go_]

.

 

[Qwin]

I had to do the usual preparation work on the van, so out came the bulkhead, I want to be able to get up front and drive off if there are undesirables around my van.

Next was the double passenger seat, that had to go. I found a perfect match on eBay for £280, got £50 for my double seat, so it stands me at £230, not bad and it's in really good condition.

I had some internal body repairs to do, fixing damage by the original owners as it was a jobbing workhorse.
Nothing major, just straightening and painting. The offside rear door needed straightening, which I did with a wire rope puller, worked a treat. Being the base "Leader" model there are no toys included, so I fitted twin reversing cameras and SatNav.
There is no cruise control, I may re-program it and add cruise later, you just need the correct steering wheel with the cruise paddles and activate it using Forscan software. The dash needed a new glass on the clocks which I sorted, and I sorted the messy looking tow bar area and painted the lower rear hinges Satin Black to match the bumper. It will eventually be getting a set of Alloy Wheels and All Terrain tyres, for now, satin black paint and a cheap set of plastic wheel trims will do, it looks much tidier now.

This is the rough layout, I'm working to.

First proper job in the conversion was the windows, which I fitted two weeks ago.
Top hinged with integral blinds and nets.

Most windows available, are replacements for caravans or motorhomes, which have flat slab like sides. Vans have curves and are a bit trickier. I got 3 identical windows, the Adventurer THC 960 x 450 which have curved frames in the vertical. Combined with curved spacer frames I made, you need these to make up the panel thickness, they fit well and leave no distortion to the body panels. I saw a YouTube video, where a guy fitted similar size windows to his 12month old Sprinter. He bought flat frames and made flat spacers, he was left with dinner plate size semi-circular dents either side of the windows. He said it looked ok, but who was he kidding.
For small windows, you can get away with flat frames in vans, but the larger you go the bigger the deviation from flat.
On my 2020 Transit 350 LWB, at the rear window, the deviation was 4 maybe 4.5mm at the rear edge. But the curve isn't constant and at the front of this window it was 8mm. You cant push/clamp it out of shape by that amount and not expect it to complain.
Soooo, for larger windows, I would recommend this curved range and use curved spacers. They look neat and when I was in Cornwall last week, through all the downpours, remained water tight. (Got em from Jacksons Leisure).

 

[Terry]

Thanks for starting this thread
Too late now but I would have put a sliding window behind the sliding door. That way it doesn’t get smashed when someone leaves it open and opens the door. Not on any of mine but I replaced a window for a friend and that made me rethink

 

[Qwin]

Thanks for starting this thread
Too late now but I would have put a sliding window behind the sliding door. That way it doesn’t get smashed when someone leaves it open and opens the door. Not on any of mine but I replaced a window for a friend and that made me rethink

Hi Terry
Yes, I thought about that and a few other things.
Find me a sliding window this big, with blinds, double glazed a tint that matches the others and a similar style?
These windows have child locks on all four latches so you can't open them without being conscious of your actions. There is a sticker on the bottom edge of each, which says "clean only with soap and water" I may replace that on this window with "Do not Open" This one behind the door will never be opened anyway, the wife just likes lots of daylight and to sit and admire the view, so overall I thought this was the best option. The rear two windows will be over the Dinette/Beds.

 

[pjay]

I have two x sliding windows either side at the rear of my van, its a good point about having one on the nearside behind the sliding door, but on the flip side I like to have the sliders open overnight for some ventilation, that's ok until it starts raining.
On reflection I would have preferred a proper opener on the offside instead.
Just my take on it.
Enjoying the thread.

Pete

 

[Qwin]

I ordered a 700 x 500 skylight a few days back, it has no permanent ventilation as supplied, but can be customer adjusted to add up to 150sqcm of permanent ventilation. You need some form of high level permanent ventilation, if you have gas hobs, to stop the build up of Carbon Monoxide, which is lighter than air. And adequate low level ventilation in case of LPG leaks, which is heavier than air. I see so many self builds that just ignore the regulations and they wonder why insurance companies don't want them on camp sites. I just couldn't sleep at night.

 

[Terry]

I ordered a 700 x 500 skylight a few days back, it has no permanent ventilation as supplied, but can be customer adjusted to add up to 150sqcm of permanent ventilation. You need some form of high level permanent ventilation, if you have gas hobs, to stop the build up of Carbon Monoxide, which is lighter than air. And adequate low level ventilation in case of LPG leaks, which is heavier than air.

Depending on which skylight you ordered most come with air ventilation built in. Some even sell rubber gaskets to seal them. Nothing to stop you opening to the first vent place once parked up. Try to avoid driving with it open.
Both Magnums (Grimsby) and O’Leary (Beverly/Hull) are very good resources for van stuff. They have lots more stuff than web site shows. Don’t be afraid to ask advice on anything, there are lots of people on here who know lots of stuff along with some who think they know You don’t have to agree with everyone, but listening to ideas may stop you making expensive mistakes.
I must admit I have been converting different vans for 30 plus years and know a lot more from every build I did. I still don’t understand electrickery that well nor have any inclination to. Sooner get someone who knows to do it

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[Qwin]

Yeh thanks Terry.
By the time I'd fitted the last window, it took half the time and was the neatest job.
I was told that one of the main failures, to get a habitation certificate is lack of permanent high level ventilation.
By permanent, something that cant be closed off.
I've seen plenty of youtube video's of people, instructing others wrongly.
LPG rules and Tyre specs I found the worst or most often miss quoted and of course electrical.

 

[RustyRuss]

This is shaping up to be an interesting thread! My daughter is just about to sell on her ancient Vivaro PVC and is intending to do another PVC, this will provide plenty of inspiration! Thanks Qwin!

 

[Qwin]

It's funny, there's a workman next door fitting the exact same soffit board I was thinking of using for my van ceiling, he even got it from the same supplier, here in Carlisle, that I was considering. He says its easy to cut with a fine toothed saw and very light weight to work with, I could easily pick up a 7' by 1' offcut he gave me, with two fingers.

 

[Silver-Fox]

It's funny, there's a workman next door fitting the exact same soffit board I was thinking of using for my van ceiling, he even got it from the same supplier, here in Carlisle, that I was considering. He says its easy to cut with a fine toothed saw and very light weight to work with, I could easily pick up a 7' by 1' offcut he gave me, with two fingers.

If I was doing my own conversion I wouldn’t use soffit board but each to their own.

I’m doing a convert for my Daughter.
She decided on the slatted acoustic boards people fit in houses.

Maybe a bit heavy compared to ply but that’s what she wanted.

 

[Qwin]

Okay my first question.
Is a DC to DC charger really necessary?

My ethos for this build is keep it simple and keep it lightweight.
I was planning on keeping the vehicle and living space electricals completely separate.
Two solar panels totalling 350/400w and nothing connected with to much current draw, a small compressor fridge being the heaviest user. So no TV or Microwave, Gas oven/hobs and water heater. Small users like LED lighting, phone chargers and very short time laptop use via an inverter.
The solar panels should keep pace with the fridge and two 110Ah AGM batteries enough for its cycling overnight.
The batteries would be fully charged by solar while sitting on my drive and while driving to my destination.
Do I really need another box and wiring to allow the alternator to charge the leisure batteries?
Maybe for van lifers and heavy users, but is it needed for my touring and light electrical demand?
What have people found in real world scenarios?

 

[Terry]

I’ll leave others to comment on your leccy problem other than to say a 200 amp hr lithium will give you more power, half the weight and cost less than two agms
Gas wise your gas locker should be metal lined with drop vents, Even though lots of converters don’t do this. Basildog -Autogas near Thirsk is the man to ask if unsure. If you’re locker is not metal lined it should never pass a Hab check. Now just wait and see how many come on and say mine isn’t metal lined but I still have a Hab check certificate.

 

[Qwin]

If I was doing my own conversion I wouldn’t use soffit board but each to their own.

I’m doing a convert for my Daughter.
She decided on the slatted acoustic boards people fit in houses.

Maybe a bit heavy compared to ply but that’s what she wanted.

View attachment 1089224

You hit the nail on the head when you said "maybe a bit heavy" I ruled acoustic boards out for this reason.
21mm acoustic panel is made of MDF strips and is heavy 10.71Kg/Msq compared to 2.5Kg/Msq for the soffit board. So its over four times heavier and because of this needs a heavier support structure adding even more weight.
No denying, it looks great, but there are many square meters in a LWB van ceiling, and it adds weight which is a good way towards my fresh water tanks total when full. Up high it does nothing for stability in wind or when cornering. But folks have different priorities so I can't criticize. Nice job by the way.

 

[Qwin]

I’ll leave others to comment on your leccy problem other than to say a 200 amp hr lithium will give you more power, half the weight and cost less than two agms
Gas wise your gas locker should be metal lined with drop vents, Even though lots of converters don’t do this. Basildog -Autogas near Thirsk is the man to ask if unsure. If you’re locker is not metal lined it should never pass a Hab check. Now just wait and see how many come on and say mine isn’t metal lined but I still have a Hab check certificate.

Yeh, the rule, if I was reading the correct/latest regs for LPG gas lockers, is that the area of the vent holes has to be at least 1% of the gas locker floor area. So it depends on how big the locker is as to how many/size of vents you need. You have to deduct the area of the ribs its only the holes that count toward the 1%.

As for Lithium, I wouldn't sleep in a van that had one!
Far to many ifs buts and maybe's.
Nearly every device using them has had problems, cars, scooters/bikes, power tools and even airsoft riffles. Several Vans, with inconclusive evidence that the battery was the initial source of the fire, but its only a matter of time.
All these devices have gone up in a spectacular way, I read somewhere that they can reach 1600dg C in a few seconds when they run away and nothing will stop this process once it starts.
Its all well and good, saying if everything is set up correctly, but its the unforeseen one off situations I'm worried about.
Sleeping over a 200Ah Lithium, if it went off, you probably wouldn't even know about it.
I hold my life more dearly, but its a free world. Relying on ever cheaper Chinese batteries has the odds firmly set against safety, long term though.
Are there any motorhome makers actually supplying them as standard fitment, I was told not, but could be wrong?

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[Otter Spotter]

Okay my first question.
Is a DC to DC charger really necessary?

My ethos for this build is keep it simple and keep it lightweight.
I was planning on keeping the vehicle and living space electricals completely separate.
Two solar panels totalling 350/400w and nothing connected with to much current draw, a small compressor fridge being the heaviest user. So no TV or Microwave, Gas oven/hobs and water heater. Small users like LED lighting, phone chargers and very short time laptop use via an inverter.
The solar panels should keep pace with the fridge and two 110Ah AGM batteries enough for its cycling overnight.
The batteries would be fully charged by solar while sitting on my drive and while driving to my destination.
Do I really need another box and wiring to allow the alternator to charge the leisure batteries?
Maybe for van lifers and heavy users, but is it needed for my touring and light electrical demand?
What have people found in real world scenarios?

It really depends on whether you intend to go off grid and where and how you intend to travel/use your van. You cannot expect your solar panels to replenish your batteries in winter in the UK. A Dc to Dc charger will not make a dent in your weight but would be very useful when travelling and as has already been suggested one Lithium battery will be better than 2 AGMs.
Great deals currently for a 280ah eco-worthy for around £360/£400. These batteries are constructed differently to bike batteries, there is no fire risk. I am sure someone on here will explain the differences but you don’t need to worry they are safe with thousands fitted to Campervans and Aclasses across the globe with no reports of any fires. You are more likely to blow the van up with a dodgy Gas set up.
Think how and what you are going to use the van for, how long you may be away in it, distance between stops, will you use EHU?
When we first specified our build I wanted to be able to charge the battery 3 ways, EHU so mains charger, Solar and Dc to Dc for on road charging, this we got but with low spec kit initially which has all been upgraded, increasing solar and battery capacity along with upping the charge amperage offered by the various chargers.
For the last few months with our 300w Solar and battery 280ah Lith. Has never gone down to below 56% and that is with using a 900w microwave, Ramoska, 1000w kettle and laptop IPad and phone charging.
Having the 3 alternative charging gives us more options for more off grid and we are not forced to move to charge.

 

[Silver-Fox]

No denying, it looks great, but there are many square meters in a LWB van ceiling, and it adds weight which is a good way towards my fresh water tanks total when full.

Totally agree, hers is a SWB so not so much a weight concern

Nice job by the way.

Thankyou

 

[Qwin]

It really depends on whether you intend to go off grid and where and how you intend to travel/use your van. You cannot expect your solar panels to replenish your batteries in winter in the UK. A Dc to Dc charger will not make a dent in your weight but would be very useful when travelling and as has already been suggested one Lithium battery will be better than 2 AGMs. Great deals currently for a 280ah eco-worthy for around £360/£400.
Think how and what you are going to use the van for, how long you may be away in it, distance between stops, will you use EHU?
When we first specified our build I wanted to be able to charge the battery 3 ways, EHU so mains charger, Solar and Dc to Dc for on road charging, this we got but with low spec kit initially which has all been upgraded, increasing solar and battery capacity along with upping the charge amperage offered by the various chargers.
For the last few months with our 300w Solar and battery 280ah Lith. Has never gone down to below 56% and that is with using a 900w microwave, Ramoska, 1000w kettle and laptop IPad and phone charging.
Having the 3 alternative charging gives us more options for more off grid and we are not forced to move to charge.

Thanks for the reply.
We do a mixture of Pubs/Sites/Wild some pubs have EHU and most of the Sites.
Most solar panels of Mono construction will charge in UK winter conditions to a degree, unless they are under 4 inches of snow of course. The one on my motorhome did. Sure not as effective/efficient, but you don't need full sun. We tend to Park up over the worst of the Winter and mothball the van. I have an EHU at my house so the van will be connected and an Oil filled Thermostatic controlled radiator will keep the frost away.
The solar panels will be charging on the move, maybe not as well as an Alternator, but contributing all the same and usage on the move will be minimal, just a fridge. My motorhome disconnected the Leisure battery when the engine was started, eg all the lights would go out.
We won't be living in the van, so its trips away for two to four weeks, with about 30% of stops based on sites, usually with EHU. We tend to do short hops when touring 30 to 50miles, so not on the move for long before stopping. The reliance on sites was to empty the chemical toilet every 3/4 days, but that could change, as I just purchased the Auzzy GottaGo seperating/compost Loo, which extends the time between emptying from days to weeks and offers more disposal options. So maybe less Sites and more Wild in the future.
So with our low usage, specified fairly high Solar capacity and battery storage, was wondering if the DC to DC was just another layer of Tech that we could drop. I won't be running Blue tooth Apps for the Space and water heaters, fridge and water tank, lighting etc. I have better things to do with my time than sit with my phone studying what all these devices are doing. The solar controller and electric control hub might be the exception as I believe some controls can only be adjusted this way, depending on the makes/models I end up with.
Lithium is a complete no go for me in a closed space.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Thanks for the reply.
We do a mixture of Pubs/Sites/Wild some pubs have EHU and most of the Sites.
Most solar panels of Mono construction will charge in UK winter conditions to a degree, unless they are under 4 inches of snow of course. The one on my motorhome did. Sure not as effective/efficient, but you don't need full sun. We tend to Park up over the worst of the Winter and mothball the van. I have an EHU at my house so the van will be connected and an Oil filled Thermostatic controlled radiator will keep the frost away.
The solar panels will be charging on the move, maybe not as well as an Alternator, but contributing all the same and usage on the move will be minimal, just a fridge. My motorhome disconnected the Leisure battery when the engine was started, eg all the lights would go out.
We won't be living in the van, so its trips away for two to four weeks, with about 30% of stops based on sites, usually with EHU. We tend to do short hops when touring 30 to 50miles, so not on the move for long before stopping. The reliance on sites was to empty the chemical toilet every 3/4 days, but that could change, as I just purchased the Auzzy GottaGo seperating/compost Loo, which extends the time between emptying from days to weeks and offers more disposal options. So maybe less Sites and more Wild in the future.
So with our low usage, specified fairly high Solar capacity and battery storage, was wondering if the DC to DC was just another layer of Tech that we could drop. I won't be running Blue tooth Apps for the Space and water heaters, fridge and water tank, lighting etc. I have better things to do with my time than sit with my phone studying what all these devices are doing. The solar controller and electric control hub might be the exception as I believe some controls can only be adjusted this way, depending on the makes/models I end up with.
Lithium is a complete no go for me in a closed space.

What makes you not want Lithium when all the evidence is that LiFePO4 Lithium are constructed differently to Bike batteries and are perfectly safe? In addition they last upwards of 10 years and weigh to power ratio is better than Lead acid and AGM. Lithium battery fires tend to be caused by cheap chargers.
Speak to Off-Grid solutions or at least search the many threads on Funster about Lithium leisure batteries.

 

[Basildog]

I’ll leave others to comment on your leccy problem other than to say a 200 amp hr lithium will give you more power, half the weight and cost less than two agms
Gas wise your gas locker should be metal lined with drop vents, Even though lots of converters don’t do this. Basildog -Autogas near Thirsk is the man to ask if unsure. If you’re locker is not metal lined it should never pass a Hab check. Now just wait and see how many come on and say mine isn’t metal lined but I still have a Hab check certificate.

That’s an interesting concept?
Pass a habcheck!
There is no pass or fail to my knowledge, only advice, some of the jumped up gas fitters seem to believe that they have been given some extraordinary powers upon gaining a 3 day qualification
BSEN2949:2021 doesn’t actually specify what the gas locker should be made from .
It think something is mentioned in a NCC code of practice which is irrelevant to the vast majority of European manufacturers.
I have heard all the BS from the gas fitters about cutting in half 5 year old hoses ( Criminal damage)
Cutting off gas supplies and capping off appliances etc !
Even a Gas Safe Fitter ( I absolutely refuse to use the word engineer) has to ask the responsible person for permission to disconnect the gas supply. If they refuse it’s basically tough where a bottle supply is concerned, if it’s on mains gas it’s just notify the Gas supplier and they can get a warrant to enter a property if required.
Some idiot posted the other day that he has the power to break entry in a gas safety situation

 

[Qwin]

What makes you not want Lithium when all the evidence is that LiFePO4 Lithium are constructed differently to Bike batteries and are perfectly safe? In addition they last upwards of 10 years and weigh to power ratio is better than Lead acid and AGM. Lithium battery fires tend to be caused by cheap chargers.
Speak to Off-Grid solutions or at least search the many threads on Funster about Lithium leisure batteries.

What evidence, please show me any?
All the articles here are by non experts, that haven't run any tests and are simply trying to justify their purchase. Even the battery manufacturers web sites are very guarded in the claims they make, with little science exposed.
We will just have to disagree on this one, to me, its like saying the Hindenburg was perfectly safe.
It's not what you know, its the unforeseen that will get you every time.

Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries (LiFePO4) don't like being charged 100% or being completely discharged. They require special chargers, different to other Lithium types. They don't like Heat or vibration or impact etc etc. The more constraints you put on something for it to work correctly, the more likely one of those constraints will change beyond your control and cause it to fail. They are very unlikely to go wrong in perfect Laboratory conditions, but they still can and will go wrong. Life on the road can be hard and unexpected things happen. A friend had a tyre explode on his motorhome, took out his rear wheel arch and did loads of internal damage, luckily his "monster" batteries were stored further forward. When it comes to fire hazard, I can't find a statement anywhere from a serious sauce, that says LiFePO4 batteries wont burn. But many quotes of "reduced chance of thermal run away", which between the lines, means they still can run away. Every article points out they are inherently safer, but that's compared to other forms of Lithium battery and fail to mention that this actually means they still pose a risk. It's marketing bull to circumvent the issue.
Google "Lithium leisure battery fire risk" and see what the AI response is (I know, not the best of sources).
It's weird, that folks worry about and avoid, fitting LPG in their vans, yet will string together a Lithium Battery based system without a care.

 

[DBK]

Okay my first question.
Is a DC to DC charger really necessary?

My ethos for this build is keep it simple and keep it lightweight.
I was planning on keeping the vehicle and living space electricals completely separate.
Two solar panels totalling 350/400w and nothing connected with to much current draw, a small compressor fridge being the heaviest user. So no TV or Microwave, Gas oven/hobs and water heater. Small users like LED lighting, phone chargers and very short time laptop use via an inverter.
The solar panels should keep pace with the fridge and two 110Ah AGM batteries enough for its cycling overnight.
The batteries would be fully charged by solar while sitting on my drive and while driving to my destination.
Do I really need another box and wiring to allow the alternator to charge the leisure batteries?
Maybe for van lifers and heavy users, but is it needed for my touring and light electrical demand?
What have people found in real world scenarios?

We run a compressor coolbox in a van which has 200W of solar and 180Ah of batteries. In poor weather (rain) even in summer the batteries will be struggling after two or three days. Admittedly, we have a diesel heater which also take power when heating water.

I don't think you need to fit a B2B at first but a split charge relay will cost next to nothing and will give you the option to charge the hab batteries from the engine. The split charge relay just connects the hab and vehicle batteries in parallel with the coils energized when the engine starts. Don't under-specify the wiring, our system had a 100 amp fuse in it. You will never get a charging current of that magnitude but if the hab batteries are run down there will be a surge of current from the vehicle battery when they are connected in parallel by the split-charge relay.

Fit a B2B later if you find you need one.

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

As for Lithium, I wouldn't sleep in a van that had one!
Far to many ifs buts and maybe's.
Nearly every device using them has had problems, cars, scooters/bikes, power tools and even airsoft riffles. Several Vans, with inconclusive evidence that the battery was the initial source of the fire, but its only a matter of time.
All these devices have gone up in a spectacular way, I read somewhere that they can reach 1600dg C in a few seconds when they run away and nothing will stop this process once it starts.
Its all well and good, saying if everything is set up correctly, but its the unforeseen one off situations I'm worried about.
Sleeping over a 200Ah Lithium, if it went off, you probably wouldn't even know about it.
I hold my life more dearly, but its a free world. Relying on ever cheaper Chinese batteries has the odds firmly set against safety, long term though.
Are there any motorhome makers actually supplying them as standard fitment, I was told not, but could be wrong?

You really should read up on the differences between LiFePo4 and Lithium-ion.

This might provide more info for you (and others)

LiFePO4 Vs Lithium Ion & Other Batteries - Why They’re #1

LiFePO4 batteries are widely considered the best, but what makes them better than lithium ion & other types of batteries? And what IS a LiFePO4 battery?

lithiumhub.com

Do Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries Catch Fire | DTG

DTG's LFP battery systems and mobile workstations are utilized by some of the world's most innovative companies. Read more about Do Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries Catch Fire

www.dtgpower.com

How safe are LiFePO4 batteries?

While no battery is completely immune to accidents, LiFePO4 batteries have an impressive track record when it comes to safety. Their ability to handle higher temperatures and withstand overcharging makes them a reliable choice for a wide range of applications.

www.fogstar.co.uk

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Outdoors Dad]

In my opinion lithium is like night and day regarding leisure batteries. My next door neighbour converted a big DHL van 5 years ago. He's on his 3rd set of LA and engine starter batteries. He still thinks lithium is a fad. Bearing in mind he is chucking in 2 x 100amp each time. Again he'd run his batteries dead than complain about the quality when the batteries wouldn't regain full charge. I persuaded him to consider solar which has helped. He always kept saying I don't need all that I've put a split charger in. In my opinion it's like saying your going to embark on a new hobby where your mobile phone is the heart beat of your hobby. Then you buy a 30 year old analogue mobile. Also a solar charger that trickle charges your SB or similar device is vital.
I fitted lithium a few years ago and I no longer get anxious about dull weather or how long I can stay off grid. If fact we haven't used EHU since we fitted. Lithium and the chargers have come down so much I can't see any value in LA anymore.

 

[Qwin]

That’s an interesting concept?
Pass a habcheck!
There is no pass or fail to my knowledge, only advice, some of the jumped up gas fitters seem to believe that they have been given some extraordinary powers upon gaining a 3 day qualification
BSEN2949:2021 doesn’t actually specify what the gas locker should be made from .
It think something is mentioned in a NCC code of practice which is irrelevant to the vast majority of European manufacturers.
I have heard all the BS from the gas fitters about cutting in half 5 year old hoses ( Criminal damage)
Cutting off gas supplies and capping off appliances etc !
Even a Gas Safe Fitter ( I absolutely refuse to use the word engineer) has to ask the responsible person for permission to disconnect the gas supply. If they refuse it’s basically tough where a bottle supply is concerned, if it’s on mains gas it’s just notify the Gas supplier and they can get a warrant to enter a property if required.
Some idiot posted the other day that he has the power to break entry in a gas safety situation

You usually get a Habitation certificate with a new Motorhome. Its a basic safety check and covers electric/gas/water systems, ventilation etc and on older vans checks for damp. While not a legal requirement, a recent Habitation certificate might influence Insurance companies, potential buyers if you are selling and maybe get a self build van into a site, that otherwise wont allow them. Its a basic bill of health or MOT for your vans living area, but carries no legal weight.

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

Sleeping over a 200Ah Lithium, if it went off, you probably wouldn't even know about it.
I hold my life more dearly, but its a free world. Relying on ever cheaper Chinese batteries has the odds firmly set against safety, long term though.
Are there any motorhome makers actually supplying them as standard fitment, I was told not, but could be wrong?

It's intriguing that you comment about that which you've been 'told' but you qualify that with 'I could be wrong' yet you seem to criticise those who disagree with you about LiFePo4 by saying theres no evidence to substantiate support for LiFePo4.

I've already posted some links, which may help you and others.

In relation to motorhome makers and whether they supply them as standard; you could look at the website and video of the best brands available which clearly show the answer, instead of listening to unreliable and incorrect sources.

Just a thought.

 

[Qwin]

You really should read up on the differences between LiFePo4 and Lithium-ion.

This might provide more info for you (and others)

LiFePO4 Vs Lithium Ion & Other Batteries - Why They’re #1

LiFePO4 batteries are widely considered the best, but what makes them better than lithium ion & other types of batteries? And what IS a LiFePO4 battery?

lithiumhub.com

Do Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries Catch Fire | DTG

DTG's LFP battery systems and mobile workstations are utilized by some of the world's most innovative companies. Read more about Do Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries Catch Fire

www.dtgpower.com

How safe are LiFePO4 batteries?

While no battery is completely immune to accidents, LiFePO4 batteries have an impressive track record when it comes to safety. Their ability to handle higher temperatures and withstand overcharging makes them a reliable choice for a wide range of applications.

www.fogstar.co.uk

Yep read those you linked to and a few others.
You really should examine the wording used and you will see they carefully avoid the issues, making statements to reassure.
"LFP does not normally experience thermal runaway" does not mean it doesn't happen.
"Less likely" doesn't mean ever. Etc Etc.
The key statement being "While no battery is completely immune to accidents"
Its the potential seriousness of those accidents that has to be put into context, compared to say an AGM going wrong.
I would agree the Technology is improving, but at this point in time, its not without risk and the manufacturers are careful not to make a statement to the contrary.

 

[TheMobileWanderer]

I have read them carefully and know the risk. I know the risk is different from that with gas and lithium-ion and that it is less. Gas goes BANG (even if fire is first) and there's time to escape with lithium of either sort, subject to there being alarm systems and escape routes.

With lithium-ion being more prone than liFePo4, it means of those three, LiFePo4 comes with least risk. Probably only being wrapped up in cotton wool would be safer?!

All that said; you wrote this in another thread which means, I'm likely unable to provide any assistance given your such vast knowledge.

I am a designer of 30 years experience, designed cars for Jaguar and Maclaren, and F1, I know what I am doing.
Wait and see the results.

 

[Qwin]

It's intriguing that you comment about that which you've been 'told' but you qualify that with 'I could be wrong' yet you seem to criticise those who disagree with you about LiFePo4 by saying theres no evidence to substantiate support for LiFePo4.

I've already posted some links, which may help you and others.

In relation to motorhome makers and whether they supply them as standard; you could look at the website and video of the best brands available which clearly show the answer, instead of listening to unreliable and incorrect sources.

Just a thought.

I'm not criticizing anyone.
All that has been put forward is opinion and I'm certainly allowed my own.
Point me at a white paper, independent study etc and I will check it out.
Marketing blurb is usually non science and the linked statements are certainly that, carefully worded to reassure but avoid litigation.
Motorhome Makers do not go into details like the type of Leisure battery they fit, on their web sites. They barely say it has an engine fitted. I said I could be wrong, because I read it on a forum and that means diddly squat.
I knew when I mentioned the subject it would be contentious, I'll just shut up.