Disaster - discovered massive rot in sub-floor

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May 31, 2025
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Eura Mobil Activa770
Hello all,

Complete disaster with 2006 Eura Mobil Activa 770 HS.

Was due to get it valeted tomorrow morning and so was doing a big clear out of everything in it tonight. The structure of the motorhome is that it has a double floor, so lots of storage underneath.

When I purchased it, the interior was spotless. Not a sign of an issue anywhere... Until tonight.

One of the garage flap doors was seized closed and it was the one directly under the dinette where the water tank is. I have removed the lock barrel and opened the locker door this evening. The vinyl floor underneath was lifting a little at the edge and so I poked a finger in... Only to find soaking wet plywood.

I cut the vinyl back and seem to have complete rotten soaking ply under the entirety of the dinette area. I've lost light and have had to stop my exploration which will continue in the morning, but my immediate concern is what the actual seats, water tank etc are all bolted to.

Will all the structural aspects be bolted to a metal frame on the chassis or is there anything that's going to be supported by the currently rotting ply?

Clearly the ply is going to have to all come out, but I'm concerned that everything is going to have to be unbolted and removed for the repair to be done.

Can anyone advise if they have faced a similar issue? I have read some threads and I see it was a problem that Swift encountered around this time.

My plan for tomorrow is basically to cut all the vinyl out and see how extensive the damage is. Then curl up in a ball and cry.

Photos attached.



PXL_20250607_213424839.webp

PXL_20250607_213437271.webp

PXL_20250607_214245828.webp
 
I think if I get this all rectified there won't be a seal on the van that won't be getting attention.
A lot of doom and gloom in this thread, a couple of sheets of plywood isn't going to break the bank, could it possibly be a leak that has now been fixed and the lino been put in after to cover it up.
 
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A lot of doom and gloom in this thread, a couple of sheets of plywood isn't going to break the bank, could it possibly be a leak that has now been fixed and the lino been put in after to cover it up.
The lino is original and I think is one of the main issues as it has trapped the moisture and not allowed the wood underneath to breathe or dry out (even though I know ply doesn't breathe like natural wood).

So any small amounts of water that have got in anywhere will have migrated to the edges and then penetrated the ply below without the opportunity to dry out.

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I think I'd be putting some water in the tank and testing things asap. Would be much easier deciding what to do, even if you don't find the leak. Good luck with it all.
Coatsey10. Sorry to read of your woes re your (new to you) MH, but you do come across as being confident and knowledgeable enough to sort it out. 👍

Through process of elimination, I'd be going with Ian_H's quote above, ie, keep it simple by starting with the obvious, then working your way to the less obvious.
Fill the tank to the brim until it runs out the overflow pipe, checking the filler neck and tank connecting pipe internally as she fills, then the tank cap and seal. If no leaks established at that stage, operate the pump to pressurise the system, getting rid of air locks from each tap in turn, hot and cold. Turn the boiler on to heat the water. I had a leak once in a Hymer of the same era as your Euromobil, which only came about when the boiler was on to heat the water.

If still no establishment of a leak anywhere, you need to be looking at waste connections to the waste tank, etc, before moving on to the less obvious such as roof/body/window frame seals.

Good luck with it all. 👍

Jock. :)
 
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Coatsey10. Sorry to read of your woes re your (new to you) MH, but you do come across as being confident and knowledgeable enough to sort it out. 👍

Through process of elimination, I'd be going with Ian_H's quote above, ie, keep it simple by starting with the obvious, then working your way to the less obvious.
Fill the tank to the brim until it runs out the overflow pipe, checking the filler neck and tank connecting pipe internally as she fills, then the tank cap and seal. If no leaks established at that stage, operate the pump to pressurise the system, getting rid of air locks from each tap in turn, hot and cold. Turn the boiler on to heat the water. I had a leak once in a Hymer of the same era as your Euromobil, which only came about when the boiler was on to heat the water.

If still no establishment of a leak anywhere, you need to be looking at waste connections to the waste tank, etc, before moving on to the less obvious such as roof/body/window frame seals.

Good luck with it all. 👍

Jock. :)
Many thanks for the post. I'll work through it as you've described.

I'm encouraged by the number of responses on here with helpful info.

Ideally someone with a trained eye will be able to spot something I can't and then I'll be able to lay out some sort of road map to repairing it.
 
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I think I'd be putting some water in the tank and testing things asap. Would be much easier deciding what to do, even if you don't find the leak. Good luck with it all.
Thanks Ian.

I'm hoping to get away from work in time to get it seen by someone with more knowledge than myself and then we'll work out a plan of attack.
 
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I won't be taking any note of them in the future and if there are any areas that I can't access to check I simply wouldn't be buying it.

Harsh lesson to learn I guess.
Is there a company name at the head of the hab report? Maybe nobody should take anything meaningful from their reports?!
 
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Is there a company name at the head of the hab report? Maybe nobody should take anything meaningful from their reports?!
I'll dig it out and check. It was someone in Scotland I think as it was only brought over to Northern Ireland in the last fortnight.

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I have used push fit fittings in some of the house work so far and have had no issues, but I know it only takes one not being 100% pushed in to cause an issue.
Reich fittings really do suck. I have had to replace no end of them over the years. Proper non cloned John Guest fittings are MILES better. Use a proper cutting tool (I suspect you know this already) not a stanley knife or hacksaw.
 
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Reich fittings really do suck. I have had to replace no end of them over the years. Proper non cloned John Guest fittings are MILES better. Use a proper cutting tool (I suspect you know this already) not a stanley knife or hacksaw.
Wait, are these the JG speedfit ones you would get from the likes of Screwfix etc?

If so I have used them in the house with no issues.
 
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I'll dig it out and check. It was someone in Scotland I think as it was only brought over to Northern Ireland in the last fortnight.

Didn’t get it from Michael Slattery in Enniskillen did you ?
 
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Wait, are these the JG speedfit ones you would get from the likes of Screwfix etc?

If so I have used them in the house with no issues.
Yes, you will have to get 12mm ones online Screwfix don't stock them

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Didn’t get it from Michael Slattery in Enniskillen did you ?
No, does he have form?

I bought it from a guy near Newry, but I don't place any blame with him. This problem and the seized locker door definitely predate him bringing it over.

I only discovered the issue when I have found part of the vinyl to be lifting behind that seized door.

The cynical side of me says someone has intentionally seized that lock up to disguise the issue before selling it to him.
 
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No, does he have form?

I bought it from a guy near Newry, but I don't place any blame with him. This problem and the seized locker door definitely predate him bringing it over.

I only discovered the issue when I have found part of the vinyl to be lifting behind that seized door.

The cynical side of me says someone has intentionally seized that lock up to disguise the issue before selling it to him.

Yes!


Good luck with the repair,there are some good threads on here about repairing damp garages,most things are repairable but find the source first if you can. Is the floor plywood,it looks more like flakeboard.

 
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Wait, are these the JG speedfit ones you would get from the likes of Screwfix etc?

If so I have used them in the house with no issues.
Yes, but not sure if Screwfix do the 12mm ones as Lenny HB says.
 
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Yes, but not sure if Screwfix do the 12mm ones as Lenny HB says.
I've used 15mm and 22mm. Can't say I recall seeing any 12mm. Maybe a bit more specialised.

If I do end up rejigging I'll maybe take the opportunity to add an outdoor shower unit for spraying the dogs off and get some positive out of the whole thing. 😂
 
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Yes!


Good luck with the repair,there are some good threads on here about repairing damp garages,most things are repairable but find the source first if you can. Is the floor plywood,it looks more like flakeboard.

That'll be a helpful read. Thank you.
 
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The hab check was what made feel confident enough to proceed with the sale. But obviously it was limited to the hab space and didn't actually go any further than that.
Hab checks are worthless .. I wouldn't trust them and I'd never pay someone to do one.

This n&b I bought last August...had a hab check done 8 months before apparently and there was a sheet there when I viewed the van..

But the gas tank had been removed, pipe not blanked off so leaked lpg everywhere. Kitchen and bathroom taps both leaked needed cartridges, water tank leaked from the main feed pipe and also the overflow resulting in water pouring out the van floor whenever the tank was filled.
Fridge didn't work , electric hookup kept tripping as there was a fault. And countless other things.

The hab check had simply not been done , just the boxes ticked for the dealer .
 
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Hab checks are worthless .. I wouldn't trust them and I'd never pay someone to do one.

This n&b I bought last August...had a hab check done 8 months before apparently and there was a sheet there when I viewed the van..

But the gas tank had been removed, pipe not blanked off so leaked lpg everywhere. Kitchen and bathroom taps both leaked needed cartridges, water tank leaked from the main feed pipe and also the overflow resulting in water pouring out the van floor whenever the tank was filled.
Fridge didn't work , electric hookup kept tripping as there was a fault. And countless other things.

The hab check had simply not been done , just the boxes ticked for the dealer .
That's ridiculous.

I get that things can be missed, but that just sounds like negligence.
 
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Coatsey10. Now that I've had a proper chance to expand the photos, the bottom locker door seal appears to be a bit disfigured.
When you get the chance, make sure the seal and frame are dry, then lighly brush on talcum powder all the way round the seal. Close the door and apply a water spray all the way round for a good few seconds. Leave to drain off before opening the door again, then have a look to see if there are any traces of water evident on the talc. You might be either surprised or shocked. ;)

Cheers,

Jock. :)

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Coatsey10. Now that I've had a proper chance to expand the photos, the bottom locker door seal appears to be a bit disfigured.
When you get the chance, make sure the seal and frame are dry, then lighly brush on talcum powder all the way round the seal. Close the door and apply a water spray all the way round for a good few seconds. Leave to drain off before opening the door again, then have a look to see if there are any traces of water evident on the talc. You might be either surprised or shocked. ;)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
Many thanks. Will give this a go on all of them. 👍
 
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If I do end up rejigging I'll maybe take the opportunity to add an outdoor shower unit for spraying the dogs off and get some positive out of the whole thing. 😂
You can buy 4 way joints now, I used them when adding an external shower point. It means your only adding one 'joint' to the system if you replace an adjacent T piece and not three if you use a T joint
 
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You can buy 4 way joints now, I used them when adding an external shower point. It means your only adding one 'joint' to the system if you replace an adjacent T piece and not three if you use a T joint
Good tip that. Thank you.
 
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Thanks. I'll maybe just change them out anyway to tick off another potential culprit.
I would as it will be one less thing to go wrong in the future.

Tissue (toilet roll or kitchen roll) makes great "tells" if you wrap it round pipes or stuff into spaces. We had a leak that appeared to come from under the kitchen units but was actually a leak from the boiler in the garage that tracked all the way along the hot water pipe before dripping off at the point where the pipe ascended to the kitchen tap. It was a sprung connector in the most difficult to reach place. A horse box company had the correct tool to get in and replace the connector - out with Reich and in with JG.
 
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Thanks. I'll maybe just change them out anyway to tick off another potential culprit.
I would as it will be one less thing to go wrong in the future.

Tissue (toilet roll or kitchen roll) makes great "tells" if you wrap it round pipes or stuff into spaces. We had a leak that appeared to come from under the kitchen units but was actually a leak from the boiler in the garage that tracked all the way along the hot water pipe before dripping off at the point where the pipe ascended to the kitchen tap. It was a sprung connector in the most difficult to reach place. A horse box company had the correct tool to get in and replace the connector - out with Reich and in with JG.

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That's ridiculous.

I get that things can be missed, but that just sounds like negligence.
Couple of years ago my sister was looking for a motorhome.
We went to a small traders compound to view one, he had 8-10 vans there.
There was no sign of anyone so I went into the porta cabin office looking for the trader.
There was no one in the porta cabin but I noticed blank hab report certificates on the desk.
Make of that what you will.
 
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