Who has a hymer b class 2002 -2006 ? Help required.

Northernraider

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hey all I'm looking for members who have a hymer b class 2002- 2006 and running the ebl101 and dt201 equipment preferably without any additional battery to battery devices etc.

I'd basically like to compare what amps they are getting in to their leisure batteries via their engine running.

I currently only get 5-6amps showing on my panel regardless of how discharged the battery is which ive been told is low.

Before I replace the ebl I would like to make sure it is faulty

Tia
 
Tam we know yours is intermittent and we clocked 25 amps once, when it wouldn't go wrong.
I'm fairly certain nearly all Hymers will initially deliver 25 - 30 amps if the batteries are fairly low dropping off to 10-15 amps once the battery voltage starts to come up.
This won't apply to you but with very flat Gel batteries you can get even more on my first Hymer I clocked 44 amps into the Gels.
 
I’ve been parked up for a few days, 180amp battery, currently reading 154amp.
After starting the engine, I’m immediately getting 17.7amp charge. Same set up as you...

324C3096-1BC6-448A-A877-1A9B1F1C09AA.jpeg7F3C576F-C068-46E1-96E6-DF672D07AFC3.jpeg
 
How full are your batteries?
You might need another charger. For 10a battery you should have 1a charger.
I have 360ah gels, 2 x 18a chargers.
Also, block can be repaired. Dont need new one.
 
ou might need another charger. For 10a battery you should have 1a charger.
I have 360ah gels, 2 x 18a chargers.
It's the engine charging that's the problem.
He hardly ever uses EHU so the single charger is fine. I only have the original charger and I have 3 batteries like Tam solar does 90% of my charging, I never even plug in at home.

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Tam we know yours is intermittent and we clocked 25 amps once, when it wouldn't go wrong.
I'm fairly certain nearly all Hymers will initially deliver 25 - 30 amps if the batteries are fairly low dropping off to 10-15 amps once the battery voltage starts to come up.
This won't apply to you but with very flat Gel batteries you can get even more on my first Hymer I clocked 44 amps into the Gels.
Yeah i was just looking for comparisons on the same van as that guy at a&n still insists my battery bank is too big

Which you and I know is nonsense

But kaasbroodje kind of confirms what I suspected with his post as his batteries are obviously higher than mine as mine is 160ah when full but if I run them down to around 140ah I'm still only getting 5-6amp input from the ebl split charger.

So from his post I think it confirms what we thought and mine is goosed
 
I’ve been parked up for a few days, 180amp battery, currently reading 154amp.
After starting the engine, I’m immediately getting 17.7amp charge. Same set up as you...

View attachment 410769View attachment 410770
Perfect thanks for that ....jt looks like mine is definitely knackered then.

Do you find your batteries will charge fully from engine running and if so any idea how long it takes.?

Mine has never done it in the time ive owned it.
 
How full are your batteries?
You might need another charger. For 10a battery you should have 1a charger.
I have 360ah gels, 2 x 18a chargers.
Also, block can be repaired. Dont need new one.
As Lenny HB says its my engine charging that's the issue its always been fine on hookup but I dont use it often unless I'm stuck.

I know the block can be repaired but as im fulltime removing it and sending away etc takes about 2 weeks and I'd be stuck for power during that time so buying a replacement is easier for me
 
I've got 150w solar, the battery will always charge to maximum within a few hours of driving.
I'm currently parked under trees, not getting much more than 3ah even in strong sunlight, so I am draining the battery.
When I leave here in a few days (I'm guessing around 130amp remaining), the battery will be back up to 180amps within an hour or two ( I reckon 30-40mile drive would do it).
 
I've got 150w solar, the battery will always charge to maximum within a few hours of driving.
I'm currently parked under trees, not getting much more than 3ah even in strong sunlight, so I am draining the battery.
When I leave here in a few days (I'm guessing around 130amp remaining), the battery will be back up to 180amps within an hour or two ( I reckon 30-40mile drive would do it).
Well mine definitely doesn't do that.

I also have solar which is all working fine and will recharge my batteries from 80% to 100% within 2 hours of strong sunlight or 3 or 4 hours when a bit duller.

But via engine charging I'm currently lucky if it would raise it from 80 - 85% in around 3 hours driving.

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It’s not right, that’s for sure.
The maxi fuse next to the starter battery is ok?
I seem to remember having a vaguely similar problem in my last Hymer (and the difficulty sourcing the fuse when on the road).
 
It’s not right, that’s for sure.
The maxi fuse next to the starter battery is ok?
I seem to remember having a vaguely similar problem in my last Hymer (and the difficulty sourcing the fuse when on the road).
Yes I changed the fuse last winter as we thought it may have high resistance but all good there.
 
I’ve just put my inverter on to draw some power.
Started at 128ah at 100%
will let you know
128ah is your full capacity ?
What batteries have you got?

Mine are 2 x 100ah which gives 200 but panel gives available 80% which is 160ah

So at 100% charged I start with 160ah

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2x 80ah gel batteries
I am sure I read somewhere that 128ah is maximum that Gauge shows??!!
 
2x 80ah gel batteries
I am sure I read somewhere that 128ah is maximum that Gauge shows??!!
Ah OK so yours will be 160 total but 80% usable so 128ah

The gauge is adjustable in the settings i had to input my capacity on the new panel
 
We have ebl 101 and dt panel.
With engine charging leisure battery the current from alternator passes straight through the ebl. There is no conditioning or raising the voltage.
We have gel batteries which need 14.3 to get to fully charged state. This is not possible when charging solely from alternator. Our alternator output is circa 14.1.
On startup initial charge is 25amps ish. This will quickly drop to about 10 amps and continue lower.
Rarely are our batteries below 12.4 at night. Greater discharge at night means larger charge in morning as voltage difference is greater.

In short the ebl does nothing fancy. Dirty or dry joint will lower charge current. Solution might be a b2b charger, this will raise voltage to leisure batt forcing/allowing more amps to flow.


Edit, ours is 2012 but same ebl and dt panel
 
It’s not right, that’s for sure.
The maxi fuse next to the starter battery is ok?
I seem to remember having a vaguely similar problem in my last Hymer (and the difficulty sourcing the fuse when on the road).
I forgot to ask are your batteries gel or lead acid ?
I think that might make a difference.

Mine are lead acid
 
We have ebl 101 and dt panel.
With engine charging leisure battery the current from alternator passes straight through the ebl. There is no conditioning or raising the voltage.
We have gel batteries which need 14.3 to get to fully charged state. This is not possible when charging solely from alternator. Our alternator output is circa 14.1.
On startup initial charge is 25amps ish. This will quickly drop to about 10 amps and continue lower.
Rarely are our batteries below 12.4 at night. Greater discharge at night means larger charge in morning as voltage difference is greater.

In short the ebl does nothing fancy. Dirty or dry joint will lower charge current. Solution might be a b2b charger, this will raise voltage to leisure batt forcing/allowing more amps to flow.


Edit, ours is 2012 but same ebl and dt panel
Yeah I'm not sure if gels are different from lead acid.

But certainly from what kaasbroodje says above his will fully charge from engine in a few hours , mine will not

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If you have an auto ses fridge try with the fridge on and off and see if it makes a difference. Check the hab batteries earth as well.
 
I'm wondering if the wee switch on the ebl that slides to select gel or acid on mine could cause this issue if faulty
No, that slide switch only affects the mains charger. The alternator charging is a simple pass-through using a high-power relay.

Can you look at the voltages of the battery terminals and the alternator/starter battery terminals while the engine is running. maybe it's an alternator problem. Also can you check that the thick wires into the back of the EBL still have a good connection and have not worked loose?
 
Well mine definitely doesn't do that.

I also have solar which is all working fine and will recharge my batteries from 80% to 100% within 2 hours of strong sunlight or 3 or 4 hours when a bit duller.

But via engine charging I'm currently lucky if it would raise it from 80 - 85% in around 3 hours driving.
Even if you charging was working correctly from 50% discharge it would probably take 8 to 10 hours driving to fully charge.
You will only see high amps into the batteries if they are fairly flat. They will charge fairly quickly to 80% but the last 20% will take quite a while as the charging current will have dropped.

However, we know with your van you often don't get the higher initial charging current which at a guess the split charge relay contacts are carboned up.

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Even if you charging was working correctly from 50% discharge it would probably take 8 to 10 hours driving to fully charge.
You will only see high amps into the batteries if they are fairly flat. They will charge fairly quickly to 80% but the last 20% will take quite a while as the charging current will have dropped.

However, we know with your van you often don't get the higher initial charging current which at a guess the split charge relay contacts are carboned up.
Yep the last time I saw that high initial charge was at yours back in December and even then I think it did it once
 
I have a 2004/5 sprinter star-line 655 one up from yours 😷. I have turned off my solar ( Victron Bluetooth) and run the battery down to 67% and started the van. Here are my readings just the van no solar
FCB77110-09F1-4B75-B734-270FF8C76C2A.jpeg
FCB77110-09F1-4B75-B734-270FF8C76C2A.jpeg
 
Here again with everything turned off just van running. I did have it at 22amps but as I took it it dropped a bit
30387959-F7FC-4C9E-94BB-DEDAD9EC1735.jpeg
 
I have a 2004/5 sprinter star-line 655 one up from yours 😷. I have turned off my solar ( Victron Bluetooth) and run the battery down to 67% and started the van. Here are my readings just the van no solar
View attachment 411195View attachment 411195
Thanks ..so like kaasbroodje yours is kicking out a fair whack .

Does it keep that input for long or does it drop down to a lower amp after a few minutes.

With engine running how quick is it raising your batteries?

I'm going to run mine down tonight and disconnect solar to see what input I get from the engine in the morning.
 
The fist picture of my control box was the same after 5 mins running. I take it one it gets to 80% it will drop amps to battery 🔋 I’m on a sprinter base so different beast underneath. But all the rest is same as you nearly

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