White van paint

[Funkystanley]

Hi all. I've just bought my 12-year old VW Crafter and looking for advice on what paint to cover all the scabby light rust bits on the inside prior to insulating. I saw a vid on Youtube where some guy used white Hammerite (following a rub down to remove flaky stuff). Has anybody else had good/bad experiences using Hammerite over the wishy/washy stuff that manufacturers pass as 'auto paint' (on vans)?

 

[Augusta08]

The classic car fraternity use

https://www.por15.com/

I have on my Classics and can vouch for it's efficacy.

 

[Gromett]

I would avoid hammerite like the plague. I used to think it was the best but I think EU regulations meant it was reformulated and I have had no end of failures with it over the last few years.

For the inside of a panel van I would look at cleaning as much rust off as you can and I mean go at it hard. Then use a rust converter. Then go at it again with a wire brush. I would then use a very high zinc primer. Any paint after that will do including hammerite. The zinc will act as a sacrificial anode and keep you clear for a long time, it's a bit like making your steel panel galvanised (almost). I would also spray inside the sills with Fluid film and make sure you get a good coating in there (After the painting has all been done.)

The biggest problem I found in my conversion was the vapour barrier. Ensure you make sure that there is no way for the warm air inside your van can touch the walls and cause condensation.

Just my opinion based on having had to scrap my van this year

 

[pagey]

+1 for por15 its a bit expensive and make sure you leave the doors open if you use it but it's good stuff I used it on my tvr chassis

 

[Lenny HB]

I would avoid hammerite like the plague. I used to think it was the best but I think EU regulations meant it was reformulated and I have had no end of failures with it over the last few years.

Like all solvent based paint not what they used to be.
I find not only the modern Hammerite not a patch on the old stuff it's also thick and gooey to apply and impossible to get a decent finish.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Gromett]

Like all solvent based paint not what they used to be.
I find not only the modern Hammerite not a patch on the old stuff it's also thick and gooey to apply and impossible to get a decent finish.

I tend to thin it these days.

 

[Funkystanley]

The classic car fraternity use


I have on my Classics and can vouch for it's efficacy.

I get panic attacks when the word POR15 is mentioned Augusta. It was painted on the underside of my Karmann Ghia floor but had been painted on new shiny panels. Rust had spider-webbed its way across the entire floor and i had to remove it all by hand (power tools too, of course), treat it then applied EM121 to it. I'm still visiting the osteopath to this day....with all my neck, back and shoulder pain.

 

[Funkystanley]

I would avoid hammerite like the plague. I used to think it was the best but I think EU regulations meant it was reformulated and I have had no end of failures with it over the last few years.

For the inside of a panel van I would look at cleaning as much rust off as you can and I mean go at it hard. Then use a rust converter. Then go at it again with a wire brush. I would then use a very high zinc primer. Any paint after that will do including hammerite. The zinc will act as a sacrificial anode and keep you clear for a long time, it's a bit like making your steel panel galvanised (almost). I would also spray inside the sills with Fluid film and make sure you get a good coating in there (After the painting has all been done.)

The biggest problem I found in my conversion was the vapour barrier. Ensure you make sure that there is no way for the warm air inside your van can touch the walls and cause condensation.

Just my opinion based on having had to scrap my van this year

Sad news about having to scrap your van grommet.

I've used a product from BitHammer called Hydrate 80, which ive been pleased with in the past. Can you recommend any good zinc primer product?....and maybe a good vapour barrier product/material?

 

[pappajohn]

Might as well brush old engine oil on it.
Masking the rust won't make it go away.

 

[Augusta08]

I get panic attacks when the word POR15 is mentioned Augusta. It was painted on the underside of my Karmann Ghia floor but had been painted on new shiny panels. Rust had spider-webbed its way across the entire floor and i had to remove it all by hand (power tools too, of course), treat it then applied EM121 to it. I'm still visiting the osteopath to this day....with all my neck, back and shoulder pain.

Yes I know Funkstanley it's important that the prep work is done correctly. I use it on my Mini, I've done a lot of rallying and forest gravel stages pebbledash the underside Por 15 has proved to be tough and gravel resistant although I always double check after every event.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[cmcardle75]

My van came with about 3mm of some sort of sage green resin sprayed on. No idea what it is actually made of and was presumably part of the riot van conversion. However, I'm glad it is there! Probably adds a tiny amount of insulation and reduces cold bridging considerably and is presumably completely watertight, reducing not only the chances of condensation but may also prevent any condensation that does happen touching the steel and rusting from within.

(cue someone telling me what it actually is and that it will cause everything rust to pieces in 6 months!)

 

[Funkystanley]

Might as well brush old engine oil on it.
Masking the rust won't make it go away.

The Hydrate80 converts the rust. I used it on a patch of rust in the spare wheel well of the Karmann Ghia and despite not top-coating it....its not started to revert back to rust.