Hiya funsters, is it safe to remove and replace l nut with locking nut on respective wheels,or do you have to jack the vehicle up each time?
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spot onYes it’s safe to do so and you don’t need to jack up. I’m assuming you are just replacing one ordinary nut with a locking nut,on each wheel.
Thanks podney,yes ,just one on each thanksYes it’s safe to do so and you don’t need to jack up. I’m assuming you are just replacing one ordinary nut with a locking nut,on each wheel.
If you're doing retirement properly,then it's 7 days a week and no days off.spot on
3 fingers tight on a 14” wrench....Do you have a torque wrench to re-set the new locking nut?
No but I can get one.what do you take it to?Do you have a torque wrench to re-set the new locking nut?
Gotcha3 fingers tight on a 14” wrench....
16" wheels 180nm for steel, 160nm for alloy.No but I can get one.what do you take it to?
M14’s (21mm AF bolt head) on the light chassis 160nm for steel or 140nm for alloy.No but I can get one.what do you take it to?
Ok thanksM14’s (21mm AF bolt head) on the light chassis 160nm for steel or 140nm for alloy.
M16’s (23mm AF bolt head) on the heavy chassis 180nm for steel or 160nm for alloy.
a bit slow there Ant, beat you by 11 minutesM14’s (21mm AF bolt head) on the light chassis 160nm for steel or 140nm for alloy.
M16’s (23mm AF bolt head) on the heavy chassis 180nm for steel or 160nm for alloy.
Basically both sizes FT
Story of my life.....a bit slow there Ant, beat you by 11 minutes
Have you noticed that if you go to a decent tyre fitter they will use the air tool to put on the nuts or more likely these days the bolts and then torque them to the correct setting. If you go anywhere that does not use a torque wrench then get them torqued before you go very far as a matter of safety. Do not rely entirely on the air tools.Do you have a torque wrench to re-set the new locking nut?