Truma trumatic C 6002 EH

[Bart]

Today my EHU cable arrived so i was finally able to get electric to my 2007 Bessacarr E560 MH which i bought last week.
I was trying to get myself familiar with the devices etc while hooked up before we go away.
when it came to the truma heater i came across some problems.
Now there is currently NO GAS installed into the MH , so i selected to put the heater onto just run on electric.
man i could blow more hot air than actually came out of it.
1 . There was NO piff from the blower its like a car heater fan on 1 or less hardly any blow from it at all.
2. There was little heat actually from heater pipes , with the only 2 blowing anything through them being the 1 below the fixed bed (directly at the heater ) , and the also at the habitation door , the ones below the front habitation seat had nothing coming through them like they were disconnected , but yet both under that seat and also at the heater i found no pipes off , or an excess of heat.

What could be the problem , and i take it that the heater should work 100% just on the hook up without the GAS ?

in one of the pictures there is a red light on which indicates a gas fault,, can this red light be coming on just as there is no gas installed ? , i have no gas to try it as i am waiting on a gas it system.

P.s at the handover we were shown how to work the equipment , but never actually seen the heater / water running.

Also so far i have been unable to get the hot water to work as well.

 

[Petest]

In the first pic it looks like you have it set on a flame. I thought tgat was gas.

Try turning it upwards

 

[Bart]

In the first pic it looks like you have it set on a flame. I thought tgat was gas.

Try turning it upwards

No believe it or not in That dial the gas symbols that i have it at are actually "flame" symbols , good old Truma for ya

 

[dave newell]

The C series heater's electric elements are only 900 Watts each so even full on there's only 1800 Watts available so its never going to produce masses of heat. Often the outlet ducting is not so much designed as just thrown in and the consequence is that airflow will be best at those outlets nearest the heater, partially closing those outlets will help to force more air to the ones further away. It is of course entirely possible that one of the electric elements has failed leaving you with just 900 Watts of heat so its worth trying it on the single element setting, if that works but still gives the same level of heat output then it almost certainly points to a burned out element. If you have a thermometer try placing it in the airflow at one of the outlets and check the temperature there on both power settings.

D.

 

[Bart]

@dave newell lvs Thanks will try that , i dont believe earlier when i switched between 900w and 1800w that there was any difference.

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[Minxy]

This might help - I'll put a copy of it in the resources section so if you want to download it you can:

 

[Minxy]

Link to my dials diagram here:

http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/resources/truma-dials-diagram.183/

 

[Bart]

@Minxy Girl Thanks Mel , looking at that then i have it set right for electric use.
@dave newell lvs yip just been back out to the MH there and tried between 900w and 1800W and using my hand as a thermometer i was noticed no difference in temps, ill see the wife when she gets in and see if we have a thermometer somewhere in the house,, if not ill buy a cheap 1 just to check it.
P.s Would the MH not being level effect the heater ??
Also ive still to get the hotwater to work,, does anyone know if that runs from the 1800w or 900w element or both ?

 

[dave newell]

The vehicle being off level will have no effect on the performance of the heater. The water heating is indirect in these heaters which is why you can run them without water in. For water only heating you simply select one of the "summer" modes on the mode selector making sure there is water in the heater of course or you won't get any hot water.

The two elements are embedded into an aluminium heat exchanger which is in direct contact with the water tank. The elements (or the gas burner if that is used) heat the heat exchanger up, for space heating ("Winter mode") the recirculating fan blows air over the heat exchanger, this warmed air is then distributed through the outlet ducts to the various parts of your motorhome. In "summer mode" (water heating without blown air circulation) the heat is transferred from the heat exchanger into the water tank by conduction.

D.

 

[Bart]

ok ive had the air heating running in the MH @1800W for2hrs + now , it was only set on the setting as per my pic at the start of this thread ( so the heating only setting as per Mels pics )
But yet i turned on the hot water tap and got hot water,, loads of it ,, near burnt the hand of me lol,,, ( how did it get hot when i just had it set to "heating only" , was it conduction ? ) anyway after a few mins of running it the water went cold , i tried changing the setting to fully clockwise so it was at the 60 degrees ( heating & water 60 degrees ) but yet no instant hot water ,,or does it take a while with the electric and its only instant with gas ,, or is the water getting heated never instant? ..
P.S with heater at 1800W on electric after 2hrs the temp inside the van has went from 16 degrees to 20 degrees ( temp for theremostat in control panel set to 29 degrees , so its not cutting off,, everytime i go out the heater is still running constantly )

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[dave newell]

Because water heating is indirect and there is a ten litre tank full of water to heat it will never provide "instant" hot water on any power source. Have you read the instructions?
D.

 

[Bart]

@dave newell lvs yip hot woater seems to working as intended , it got hot after like 20 mins on the electric , re instructions yar found them here just incase anyone in the future needs them as well :

Seems the heater gets like 3 times more powerfull when also running on the gas , with the electric side of it being like a back up side to the heater running at a fraction of the power of the gas , something like gas = 6000w , electric = 1800w
So ill re post here once i get the gas sorted and check it

Thanks Dave

 

[Bart]

OK finally got my Gas it System installed & filled , so today i was making sure all my appliances were working on GAS as we are going away for our first outing in the MH on MONDAY , well sure typical all is not well when using the gas.
Cooker working 100% on gas ( its on the side of the gas tank )
Both the fridge and the Truma heater are on the same side , which is the side opposite the gas tank ( so further away )
Fridge ( i can her it firing up ok if im outside at the gas vent ) so it appears to be working.
The Truma heater when put onto Gas mode is just blowing out cold air , and the red light is on at the dial , if i turn it to heat & water it still just does the same.
both the fridge & the truma heater Gas shut of valves are beside each other and they are both in the same position which is marked as open.
i have let the heater blow cold air for 15 mins plus in case it was taking a while for the gas to travel down the pipe , but still noting.
just typical we are heading away on monday morning.

Anyone got any ideas what the problem could be or what i should do to do some tests ??

 

[Techno]

deleted after reading post properly lol

 

[Techno]

I'd say you have an ignition fault

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[Bart]

Thanks Andy , finally got it going after an hour of trying it at different settings , e.g water only , heat & water , heat only , then turned off the whole control panel again , then turned it on again , and this time the red light was not lit in the middle indicating a gas problem , and then i head the heater clicking a few times as it cycled up ( like relay clicking , which i have never it do before ) then the heater went into turbo mode which i also had never seen it do before ( as i had only ever seen it go electric )
Well now all seems to be working ok , will do some more testing tomorrow ,,all i can assume is that it took a while for the gas to come up to it ,, or the pipe was air locked .

 

[Techno]

These boilers are like rocking horse dung now. Spares are plentiful but very expensive.
Mine is a 6002 gas only but I bought a complete brand new 6002EH for £950.
If my gas only ever fails I'll transplant it.

 

[Bart]

Woot £950 , man never knew they were that expensive,, hope there is nowt wrong with mine , been doing some more testing and seemed to of worked ok,, tomorrows another day

 

[Dorset Diver]

As Andy says spares are plentiful and they are not that difficult to work on. I removed, stripped, rebuilt and reinstalled my EH in about eight hours and I'm no expert.

 

[Techno]

Woot £950 , man never knew they were that expensive,, hope there is nowt wrong with mine , been doing some more testing and seemed to of worked ok,, tomorrows another day

around £1600 in their day

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[Bart]

why did you buy a "Spare" one at £950 ? i take it as its electric as well ? or you just loaded

 

[Bart]

also are they pretty trouble free , or are they badly designed

 

[Techno]

Simply because you can't get them anymore and we will have our van for many years yet