Tambour / sliding door help

[Rjcamper]

I have a sticking, non slide curved Tambour door to the toilet, to the point I nearly pulled in out of it tracks

Was stiff when be bought the MoHo but is now worse

I have read all the threads I can find, used all the tips but still not helping....

Any ideas? Should I remove and clean, check, grease etc and how easy is it to get out and in?

 

[Stroppy Bird]

I use the thetford silicon spray on both the bottom and top of the sliding door on ours if it starts to get a bit sticky.

Same with the roof lights if they ever start to stick a bit.

 

[DP+JAY]

Another vote for silicone spray, not grease or WD40 type lubricants on plastic.
DP

 

[Rjcamper]

Done both and not helping

 

[mike mcglynn]

We had that problem on an earlier van and it used to collect fluff and fibres in the bottom track and stick so a modified toothbrush came into play that sorted it then a spray with furniture polish top and bottom track perfect.

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[Rjcamper]

I will try toothbrush, I have wiped in out and furniture polish.

But it's not just stiff, it sticks and have to bank. Don't think the heat is helping

 

[Rjcamper]

Just toothbrushed it to death. Sprayed and still sticking?????

 

[The Wino]

Ours is prone to stick. I have cleaned out the track then use the Thetford toilet seal lubricant I suspect it's just silicone. I wouldn't use silicon furniture polish as it might well have wax in it that could build up. I find that they fixed the handle on too high if you pull the door shut with the handle if it sticks slightly at the bottom it just tilts and jams if you pull a bit lower than the handle it slides better. The other problem with our one is the door segments aren't very well fastened together. We have put lines of clear duct tape across the back about 4 of them that makes it slide across as a sheet. If yours is anything like ours that should all help I think theyre a rubbish design and did think about taking the lot out and just having a curtain but the"fixes" make it usable. I also use an ikea child safety lock to fasten it when traveling.

 

[Geistguy]

Try to get a silicone oil spray ( not just a siliconespray ) it leaves a thin film which seems to penetrate and last longer. Several makes are available.

 

[mitzimad]

it maybe in this heat it has expanded cure would be to shorten it slightly but you run the risk of it rattling once we go back to normal temperatures

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[Geistguy]

Aaaah, northern Aberdeenshire , heat ain't a problem !!

 

[Rjcamper]

Well, sprayed it up, but day out today, half way to designation then this happened

Think the tape coming off was causing the issue and not pulling straight.

But at least I can give it a good clean before refitting

 

[TheBig1]

take 3mm off the top of each slat before reassembling and replacing the tape. Real gaffa tape works perfectly, not the £2 a roll plastic duct tape rubbish

I have repaired a few of them this way and through trial and error found the way that works

 

[The Wino]

take 3mm off the top of each slat before reassembling and replacing the tape. Real gaffa tape works perfectly, not the £2 a roll plastic duct tape rubbish

I have repaired a few of them this way and through trial and error found the way that works

Yes I used the clear stuff with reinforcing fibres in I change it at the start of every season.
I didn't take anything off the height. It's a bit tricky getting it back in again. I'll post a pic of the IKEA catch.

 

[PhilandMena]

I too have this door on my 2011 Excel 670 B and had a similar problem. Close inspection revealed 3 errors that were easy to correct and solved the problem.
1. Top rail had some loose screws in it, fouling the door when being closed. I put a bit of glue on the thread and screwed them home and they have not moved since.
2. The bottom of the door was not properly engaged into the guide rail because of error 3 and when corrected problem was solved.
3. The bottom guide rail was too close the the bathroom step up where the curve was resulting in an interference when closing the door and pushing the door off the guide rail.
All sorted now. Even so WE have to hold the door just above the middle when closing it to ensure it slides all the way into the locking position with ease.

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[Rjcamper]

Well, back home after a great day at the Lost Gardens of Heligan.

Door back in and taped, still a little stiff but going to see how it goes, needed to get it back in before the next outing.

Plastic guides in each section had pushed up in places so reset them

If no improvement then:

Will take out and trim slightly on the top as suggested and replace some or all of the plastic insert guides

Thanks all for you suggestions

 

[gerry mcg]

The top track in the bathroom tambour door in our Globecar started to pull out of the wooden roof. The screws were working loose and beginning to foul the top runner sliders, causing the door to jam.
I drilled the track at 2 places in been the existing screws and used larger diameter screws to reattatch the screws that had loosened and it is solid now

 

[The Wino]

Here's the IKEA catch we use. The door originally didn't have one but later models did I think the idea was you travelled with the magnetic catch holding it shut but it just didn't work.

 

[Rjcamper]

take 3mm off the top of each slat before reassembling and replacing the tape. Real gaffa tape works perfectly, not the £2 a roll plastic duct tape rubbish

I have repaired a few of them this way and through trial and error found the way that works

UPDATE:

Week away and still the same, took door out and trimmed by 3mm at TheBig1 suggested. Re-taped with Gorilla Duct Tape, greased.... Now working perfectly

 

[Ripple]

I have a sticking, non slide curved Tambour door to the toilet, to the point I nearly pulled in out of it tracks

Was stiff when be bought the MoHo but is now worse

I have read all the threads I can find, used all the tips but still not helping....

Any ideas? Should I remove and clean, check, grease etc and how easy is it to get out and in?

I had the same problem which have solved very simply. The manufacturer recommends travelling with the door open, which in my case puts the door into a curved shape. This in effect encourages the door, particularly when it is cold, to assume this shape permanently. When you then slide into the straight (closed) position it resists particularly at the ends which forces themselves into the track drain channel on the floor stopping it moving. In my case it became so stiff you could only open by using both hands and a foot to keep the door in the track. The simple solution was to keep the door closed whilst heating the room, encouraging it to take on the new straighter shape. To improve even further i added a little silicon spray and that's it, good as new after a few treatments. I now also travel with the door closed to stop the issue recurring. I hope this was helpful.

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[Rjcamper]

I had the same problem which have solved very simply. The manufacturer recommends travelling with the door open, which in my case puts the door into a curved shape. This in effect encourages the door, particularly when it is cold, to assume this shape permanently. When you then slide into the straight (closed) position it resists particularly at the ends which forces themselves into the track drain channel on the floor stopping it moving. In my case it became so stiff you could only open by using both hands and a foot to keep the door in the track. The simple solution was to keep the door closed whilst heating the room, encouraging it to take on the new straighter shape. To improve even further i added a little silicon spray and that's it, good as new after a few treatments. I now also travel with the door closed to stop the issue recurring. I hope this was helpful.

Thanks, but managed to sort just over 4 years ago