Solar problem on our new to us Hymer!!!!

bluesurf989

bluesurf989

Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Posts
300
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201
Location
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
We have just purchased a Hymer C544SL but have a problem with the solar charging, there is x2 panels on the roof and they are wired into the Hymer board as far as i can see. The 5amp fuse is ok but there doesnt seem to be any charge going to the leisure battery.Im only reading 12.4v throughout a sunny day and as i understand the panel would say + if its generating any charge.Any help would be much appreciated :)
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It won’t show acharge if your batteries are full as the regulator stops them also if you are on hook up.(y)(y)(y)
 
Disconnect the + and - on the solar controller coming from the panels and put a multimeter on cable ends.
That should show you the charge going in, don`t do what I did though and do it after dark (n)
 
Figaro said:
Disconnect the + and - on the solar controller coming from the panels and put a multimeter on cable ends.
That should show you the charge going in, don`t do what I did though and do it after dark (n)
Click to expand...
Just use a torch:D
 
and dont short the loose ends together........ :eek:

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Ha ha nice one guys. I gather this wire will be the red wire on the top right. What sort of reading should i see, if there is a good reading would this mean the regulator is probably buggered?
 
Actually you should be able to put the meter prongs down the Schault controller with the cables still attached, no risk of shorting it then.
You could also test what comes out of the controller
 
bluesurf989 said:
Ha ha nice one guys. I gather this wire will be the red wire on the top right. What sort of reading should i see, if there is a good reading would this mean the regulator is probably buggered?
Click to expand...
I think voltage can go up to 21-22 volts from panels, after the controller much less, 13 volts maybe, others will know better than me.
 
If i am getting good power from the panels could i just replace with a normal solar regulator?

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That is quite an old regulator. The current Schaudt model is the LR1218 which is capable of handling 18 amps from the panels. Yours is a 1214 which handles 14 amps and has not been produced for several years. Both these models are PWM type regulators whereas many people now fit a MPPT regulator which can harvest more output from the panels. For what it’s worth, I have a 130 watt panel and LR1218 regulator and it works perfectly well.
To test yours, set the multimeter to a range of circa 20v dc then put the probes on the red and black wired terminals on the right of your top picture (in good sunlight). You should get a definite reading. Then put the probes across the red and brown wired terminals on the left of your picture. You should get a reading. If there is no reading at the second step it suggests the regulator is caput.
One advantage of this type of regulator is that it charges both leisure and starter batteries so probably worth replacing with similar or equivalent.

Couple of points. You referred to a 5 amp fuse but the solar fuse on the front of the EBL is normally 14 or 15 amps. Also, the EBL is set for gel batteries. Is that what you have fitted? If not it needs correcting but the EBL must be switched off before moving the selector switch.

N.b. Do not disconnect the cables between regulator and EBL (or, indeed,between EBL and battery) without first disconnecting the solar input cables from the regulator (and make sure you don’t cause any shorting).
 
Thank you JeanLuc. The camper is new to us a just ironing out a few issues. Unsure of the leisure battery type but from a quick view i think its a agm battery. If the EBL is set to gel batteries would this make a difference. Also how do i turn off the EBL to rectify?
 
Only the most recent EBL model is truly capable of handling AGM batteries although Hymer and dealers have been fitting them for a few years. Your EBL was not designed to work with AGMs but having it set to gel is probably the best compromise, albeit sub-optimal. My advice would be to switch to gel or sealed lead-acid sooner rather than later. Original equipment from Hymer for your van would almost certainly have been gel.
Also, the solar regulator is not really suited to AGMs as it has a fully-charged resting voltage of over 14v. I have found it ok with sealed lead-acid but even then it’s a bit high. At least it drops away as the sun fades.

You might want to download manuals for your Schaudt units. They are available in English from the website, or, indeed some of them are in the Fun ‘Resources’ section. If you have to use the Schaudt site, it is in German but not too difficult to navigate.
Go to this page then in the second search box type EBL, click ‘suchen’ and select your model. You will be asked for an email address to which a link will be sent.
https://www.schaudt.gmbh/de/service-support/downloads.php
To get documentation for the regulator repeat the process searching for LRS 1214, or you may need to get LR 1218 if the old model docs are no longer available.
 
Also don’t disconnect the solar panel without covering it up first or do as I do and disconnect it at night.
 
When I was having similar solar panel problems as you, on my 2004 B544 Hymer, the problem turned out to be my EBL100.

On the recommendation from Schauldt, I changed my solar panel input from the Block 6 connector to the Block 7 connector, which are linked internally.
This requires a 2pin connector.
Never bothered to cover solar panel whilst fault finding, but I did follow the Schauldt connection sequence advice.

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SIFTA SAM said:
When I was having similar solar panel problems as you on my 2004 B544 Hymer.
The problem turned out to be my EBL100.
On the recommendation from Schauldt, I changed my solar panel input from the Block 6 connector to the Block 7 connector, which are linked internally.
This requires a 2pin connector.
Never bothered to cover solar panel whilst fault finding, but I did follow the Schauldt connection sequence advice.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.
 
Manic said:
I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.
Click to expand...

Strange, did that action enable you to connect to Block 7, because the Block 6 connector is three pin, and according to my EBL 100 info, the centre pin is not connected?
I had to change the connector to interface with Block 7.
OK just had a re-read of you Post. Sounds like you cut the centre out of the Block 6 connector and converted it to a 2pin. (or two 1pin) connector/s. Good Idea.
 
Last edited:
Yes, Udo Lang at Schaudt suggested using the block 7, which for and additional charger.
 
I’m pretty sure the Shaudt solar controller is either no longer available as new fitments or just not used by many. Our new Burstner with Shaudt Electroblock System came with a 3rd party solar controller which I have changed for a Victron MPPT controller.
 
Can't really add anything to what Philip has already said apart from ditch the AGM battery before it fails on you and fit a couple of Gel's.
The LRS1214 & LR1218 are only suitable for gel batteries as they are single stage chargers that hold the output volage constantly at 14.3v (LRS1214) or 14.2v (LR1218).

I would change the regulator for decent MPPT one, either a Votronic or Victron.

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Schaudt LR1218 (PWM) regulator is still listed on their website, as is the newer LRM1218 (MPPT) regulator. An alternative make, also recommended by Schaudt is the series made by Votronic. These can be purchased with wiring looms for the EBL.

Snap! Lenny HB
 
Threads like this put the fear of God up me! I havn't got a clue what you are all talking about and it often makes me wonder whfther owning a mh is the correct hobby for me. :(
 
movan said:
Threads like this put the fear of God up me! I havn't got a clue what you are all talking about and it often makes me wonder whfther owning a mh is the correct hobby for me. :(
Click to expand...
Don’t worry about it @movan neither do a lot of us understand all the gobbildy gook but we muddle o life’s to short to worry:D(n)(n)(y)
 
movan said:
Threads like this put the fear of God up me! I havn't got a clue what you are all talking about and it often makes me wonder whfther owning a mh is the correct hobby for me. :(
Click to expand...

It's what's called, 'Information Overload' :LOL:

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Great information from everybody and much appreciated. I havent had chance yet in the daylight to test panels but think i am going to go down the MPPT route ,maybe votronic with a display i can keep my eye on. I will keep you posted:rolleyes:
 
I am sure there are several suppliers but Roadpro stock Votronic and offer a modest discount to Funsters.
https://www.roadpro.co.uk/catalogue/02h05a-mppt-solar-regulators
Instead of as the option of a Votronic solar monitor, you might consider the Votronic battery computer which monitors all charging/discharging states of your batteries.
https://www.roadpro.co.uk/catalogue/02e03-battery-monitors
Another good option is the Victron battery monitor.
N.b. Depending on which Schaudt control panel you have (probably branded Hymer) it may already show the state of solar charge - mine does.
 
JeanLuc said:
To test yours, set the multimeter to a range of circa 20v dc then put the probes on the red and black wired terminals on the right of your top picture (in good sunlight). You should get a definite reading. Then put the probes across the red and brown wired terminals on the left of your picture. You should get a reading. If there is no reading at the second step it suggests the regulator is caput.
One advantage of this type of regulator is that it charges both leisure and starter batteries so probably worth replacing with similar or equivalent.
Click to expand...
Beware of the colour coding of the wires in Hymers.
The red and black pair marked 'SolarModule' are the usual red = positive, black = negative.
The black wire marked 'Wohnraum Batterie' (= Leisure battery) is POSITIVE.
The brown wire marked 'Batterie' is the NEGATIVE for both leisure and starter batteries.
The red wire marked 'Starter batterie' is the POSITIVE for the starter battery.
 
Manic said:
I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.
Click to expand...
On most EBLs the centre pin of block 6 is connected to the starter battery. I know it is not connected on the EBL99, and although I'm not sure about the EBL100 I think it one of those that is connected.

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