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Solar problem on our new to us Hymer!!!! (1 Viewer)

Jul 26, 2015
297
199
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
We have just purchased a Hymer C544SL but have a problem with the solar charging, there is x2 panels on the roof and they are wired into the Hymer board as far as i can see. The 5amp fuse is ok but there doesnt seem to be any charge going to the leisure battery.Im only reading 12.4v throughout a sunny day and as i understand the panel would say + if its generating any charge.Any help would be much appreciated :)
IMG_3136.JPG
IMG_3137.JPG
 
Jul 29, 2013
9,091
18,910
Salisbury
Funster No
27,215
MH
Hymer B678DL A class
Exp
since 2011
It won’t show acharge if your batteries are full as the regulator stops them also if you are on hook up.(y)(y)(y)
 
Feb 22, 2011
9,965
20,602
Newcastle under Lyme
Funster No
15,397
MH
Hymer B544 A Class
Exp
Since 2015
Disconnect the + and - on the solar controller coming from the panels and put a multimeter on cable ends.
That should show you the charge going in, don`t do what I did though and do it after dark (n)
 
Dec 6, 2011
11,721
25,756
South Wales
Funster No
19,136
MH
Coach built Adria
Exp
Since 2007
and dont short the loose ends together........ :eek:

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bluesurf989
Jul 26, 2015
297
199
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
Ha ha nice one guys. I gather this wire will be the red wire on the top right. What sort of reading should i see, if there is a good reading would this mean the regulator is probably buggered?
 
Feb 22, 2011
9,965
20,602
Newcastle under Lyme
Funster No
15,397
MH
Hymer B544 A Class
Exp
Since 2015
Actually you should be able to put the meter prongs down the Schault controller with the cables still attached, no risk of shorting it then.
You could also test what comes out of the controller
 
Feb 22, 2011
9,965
20,602
Newcastle under Lyme
Funster No
15,397
MH
Hymer B544 A Class
Exp
Since 2015
Ha ha nice one guys. I gather this wire will be the red wire on the top right. What sort of reading should i see, if there is a good reading would this mean the regulator is probably buggered?
I think voltage can go up to 21-22 volts from panels, after the controller much less, 13 volts maybe, others will know better than me.
 
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OP
bluesurf989
Jul 26, 2015
297
199
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
If i am getting good power from the panels could i just replace with a normal solar regulator?

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JeanLuc

Free Member
Nov 17, 2008
3,304
2,199
Warwickshire
Funster No
4,952
MH
Hymer B630 Star-Line
Exp
Since 2007
That is quite an old regulator. The current Schaudt model is the LR1218 which is capable of handling 18 amps from the panels. Yours is a 1214 which handles 14 amps and has not been produced for several years. Both these models are PWM type regulators whereas many people now fit a MPPT regulator which can harvest more output from the panels. For what it’s worth, I have a 130 watt panel and LR1218 regulator and it works perfectly well.
To test yours, set the multimeter to a range of circa 20v dc then put the probes on the red and black wired terminals on the right of your top picture (in good sunlight). You should get a definite reading. Then put the probes across the red and brown wired terminals on the left of your picture. You should get a reading. If there is no reading at the second step it suggests the regulator is caput.
One advantage of this type of regulator is that it charges both leisure and starter batteries so probably worth replacing with similar or equivalent.

Couple of points. You referred to a 5 amp fuse but the solar fuse on the front of the EBL is normally 14 or 15 amps. Also, the EBL is set for gel batteries. Is that what you have fitted? If not it needs correcting but the EBL must be switched off before moving the selector switch.

N.b. Do not disconnect the cables between regulator and EBL (or, indeed,between EBL and battery) without first disconnecting the solar input cables from the regulator (and make sure you don’t cause any shorting).
 
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bluesurf989
Jul 26, 2015
297
199
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
Thank you JeanLuc. The camper is new to us a just ironing out a few issues. Unsure of the leisure battery type but from a quick view i think its a agm battery. If the EBL is set to gel batteries would this make a difference. Also how do i turn off the EBL to rectify?
 

JeanLuc

Free Member
Nov 17, 2008
3,304
2,199
Warwickshire
Funster No
4,952
MH
Hymer B630 Star-Line
Exp
Since 2007
Only the most recent EBL model is truly capable of handling AGM batteries although Hymer and dealers have been fitting them for a few years. Your EBL was not designed to work with AGMs but having it set to gel is probably the best compromise, albeit sub-optimal. My advice would be to switch to gel or sealed lead-acid sooner rather than later. Original equipment from Hymer for your van would almost certainly have been gel.
Also, the solar regulator is not really suited to AGMs as it has a fully-charged resting voltage of over 14v. I have found it ok with sealed lead-acid but even then it’s a bit high. At least it drops away as the sun fades.

You might want to download manuals for your Schaudt units. They are available in English from the website, or, indeed some of them are in the Fun ‘Resources’ section. If you have to use the Schaudt site, it is in German but not too difficult to navigate.
Go to this page then in the second search box type EBL, click ‘suchen’ and select your model. You will be asked for an email address to which a link will be sent.
https://www.schaudt.gmbh/de/service-support/downloads.php
To get documentation for the regulator repeat the process searching for LRS 1214, or you may need to get LR 1218 if the old model docs are no longer available.
 
Nov 4, 2011
6,006
40,191
Uk
Funster No
18,763
MH
A class
Exp
2001
Also don’t disconnect the solar panel without covering it up first or do as I do and disconnect it at night.
 
Jan 27, 2009
874
3,402
Leyland Lancs
Funster No
5,472
MH
A class
Exp
since 2001
When I was having similar solar panel problems as you, on my 2004 B544 Hymer, the problem turned out to be my EBL100.

On the recommendation from Schauldt, I changed my solar panel input from the Block 6 connector to the Block 7 connector, which are linked internally.
This requires a 2pin connector.
Never bothered to cover solar panel whilst fault finding, but I did follow the Schauldt connection sequence advice.

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Nov 4, 2011
6,006
40,191
Uk
Funster No
18,763
MH
A class
Exp
2001
When I was having similar solar panel problems as you on my 2004 B544 Hymer.
The problem turned out to be my EBL100.
On the recommendation from Schauldt, I changed my solar panel input from the Block 6 connector to the Block 7 connector, which are linked internally.
This requires a 2pin connector.
Never bothered to cover solar panel whilst fault finding, but I did follow the Schauldt connection sequence advice.

I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.
 
Jan 27, 2009
874
3,402
Leyland Lancs
Funster No
5,472
MH
A class
Exp
since 2001
I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.

Strange, did that action enable you to connect to Block 7, because the Block 6 connector is three pin, and according to my EBL 100 info, the centre pin is not connected?
I had to change the connector to interface with Block 7.
OK just had a re-read of you Post. Sounds like you cut the centre out of the Block 6 connector and converted it to a 2pin. (or two 1pin) connector/s. Good Idea.
 
Last edited:
Nov 4, 2011
6,006
40,191
Uk
Funster No
18,763
MH
A class
Exp
2001
Yes, Udo Lang at Schaudt suggested using the block 7, which for and additional charger.
 

Allanm

Free Member
Jun 30, 2013
5,431
9,192
Cotes d'armor, France
Funster No
26,730
MH
Burstner Harmony TI 736 G
Exp
Since 1987
I’m pretty sure the Shaudt solar controller is either no longer available as new fitments or just not used by many. Our new Burstner with Shaudt Electroblock System came with a 3rd party solar controller which I have changed for a Victron MPPT controller.
 

Lenny HB

LIFE MEMBER
Oct 18, 2007
54,092
152,672
On the coast in West Sussex
Funster No
658
MH
Hymer B678 DL
Exp
Since 2008 & many years tugging
Can't really add anything to what Philip has already said apart from ditch the AGM battery before it fails on you and fit a couple of Gel's.
The LRS1214 & LR1218 are only suitable for gel batteries as they are single stage chargers that hold the output volage constantly at 14.3v (LRS1214) or 14.2v (LR1218).

I would change the regulator for decent MPPT one, either a Votronic or Victron.

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JeanLuc

Free Member
Nov 17, 2008
3,304
2,199
Warwickshire
Funster No
4,952
MH
Hymer B630 Star-Line
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Since 2007
Schaudt LR1218 (PWM) regulator is still listed on their website, as is the newer LRM1218 (MPPT) regulator. An alternative make, also recommended by Schaudt is the series made by Votronic. These can be purchased with wiring looms for the EBL.

Snap! Lenny HB
 

movan

LIFE MEMBER
Dec 2, 2009
21,492
120,753
Moving around
Funster No
9,543
MH
Burstner
Exp
since07
Threads like this put the fear of God up me! I havn't got a clue what you are all talking about and it often makes me wonder whfther owning a mh is the correct hobby for me. :(
 
Jan 27, 2009
874
3,402
Leyland Lancs
Funster No
5,472
MH
A class
Exp
since 2001
Threads like this put the fear of God up me! I havn't got a clue what you are all talking about and it often makes me wonder whfther owning a mh is the correct hobby for me. :(

It's what's called, 'Information Overload' :LOL:

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bluesurf989
Jul 26, 2015
297
199
Devon
Funster No
37,296
MH
Hymer
Exp
since 1999
Great information from everybody and much appreciated. I havent had chance yet in the daylight to test panels but think i am going to go down the MPPT route ,maybe votronic with a display i can keep my eye on. I will keep you posted:rolleyes:
 

JeanLuc

Free Member
Nov 17, 2008
3,304
2,199
Warwickshire
Funster No
4,952
MH
Hymer B630 Star-Line
Exp
Since 2007
I am sure there are several suppliers but Roadpro stock Votronic and offer a modest discount to Funsters.
https://www.roadpro.co.uk/catalogue/02h05a-mppt-solar-regulators
Instead of as the option of a Votronic solar monitor, you might consider the Votronic battery computer which monitors all charging/discharging states of your batteries.
https://www.roadpro.co.uk/catalogue/02e03-battery-monitors
Another good option is the Victron battery monitor.
N.b. Depending on which Schaudt control panel you have (probably branded Hymer) it may already show the state of solar charge - mine does.
 
Apr 27, 2016
6,937
8,102
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
To test yours, set the multimeter to a range of circa 20v dc then put the probes on the red and black wired terminals on the right of your top picture (in good sunlight). You should get a definite reading. Then put the probes across the red and brown wired terminals on the left of your picture. You should get a reading. If there is no reading at the second step it suggests the regulator is caput.
One advantage of this type of regulator is that it charges both leisure and starter batteries so probably worth replacing with similar or equivalent.
Beware of the colour coding of the wires in Hymers.
The red and black pair marked 'SolarModule' are the usual red = positive, black = negative.
The black wire marked 'Wohnraum Batterie' (= Leisure battery) is POSITIVE.
The brown wire marked 'Batterie' is the NEGATIVE for both leisure and starter batteries.
The red wire marked 'Starter batterie' is the POSITIVE for the starter battery.
 
Apr 27, 2016
6,937
8,102
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
I had the same problem on my EBL99, block 6 input not working and I cut the middle pin out of plug.
On most EBLs the centre pin of block 6 is connected to the starter battery. I know it is not connected on the EBL99, and although I'm not sure about the EBL100 I think it one of those that is connected.

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