So, you need to drill through your van's roof to fit a solar panel?...... Actually, no you don't....

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Apr 18, 2021
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Lincolnshire Wolds AONB, United Kingdom
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Sunlight Cliff 540
Exp
Since 2008
I wanted to fit a solar panel to my PVC, but was apprehensive about drilling through the van's roof for the cables. A little bit of investigation inside the van, coupled with some lateral thinking, and I've managed to get the cables into the van via the front rooflight surround.
Having taken off the Dometic Heki perforated vents on the sliding blind structure, (they're a push/click fit,) it reveals 3-4 screws holding the blinds in place, remove these, and the blinds pull off quite easily as a complete unit. Removing the clamping screws for the Heki on the side nearest to the sliding door allows you to ease the roof lining down, and from there I was able to ascertain that I could pass cables diagonally to the void behind the control panel above the sliding door. From there, you can pass cables through a small gap into the overcab storage area, which is where I'm going to position my Victron MPPT.
The cables from the leisure batteries to the MPPT pass behind the plastic cover for the step and light switches, and can be tucked neatly behind the trim running up the side of the B pillar. There is a small gap between the rear of the overcab storage shelf and the 'arched' trim that goes from B pillar to B pillar, and I was able to push the battery cable up through this to meet up with the MPPT.
I've yet to fit the panel itself (it will be bonded to the roof with Stixall, and has a front spoiler attached) but the internal work is just about finished. The footprint of the panel can be seen in the photo - it's half the box that it arrived in!
On my van, I'm fitting a 200W Craig Solar panel (I went for the biggest wattage I could, based on the available roof space, and it measures 148cm x 68cm.)
The good thing about the Heki, is that when it is fully closed, it covers the entry point for the cables, but you do have to take this into account before drilling the holes, so that the fully closed roof doesn't interfere with the cables.

I'm happier knowing that my roof won't have any holes in it, and if the solution I've chosen ultimately fails for some reason, (although I can't think of one right now...) it will be cheaper to replace the Heki at approx. £500 rather than the whole roof!!
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Plenty of holes through my tin roof, there’s the Status tv aerial, Puck mifi, fm radio antenna, cables from the solar panel, they will not cause a problem, all are through the ribbed section rather than in a trough. My solar panel is also screwed to the roof. Not a problem if done correctly.
 
Plenty of holes through my tin roof, there’s the Status tv aerial, Puck mifi, fm radio antenna, cables from the solar panel, they will not cause a problem, all are through the ribbed section rather than in a trough. My solar panel is also screwed to the roof. Not a problem if done correctly.
I'm not saying I wouldn't have done it if I had no alternative, I'm just showing that there are other ways of achieving it.
 
I think whatever you are comfy with is the way to go (y)

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A good job with a bit of forethought make sure you get the correct thickness cable run to the leisure battery as they recommend it be as close as possible to the Mppt.
 
That would mean I'd have wires in the centre of my ceiling.
I would far sooner drill though the roof so the wire's are invisible inside the most convenient cupboard.
No visible wires at all - everything is hidden behind/underneath the trim.
 
pass cables through a small gap into the overcab storage area, which is where I'm going to position my Victron MPPT.
That's a hell of a long way to the battery/ies.
Volt drop will be considerable unless you use big cables.
No good using regular gauge wires.
 
I wanted to fit a solar panel to my PVC, but was apprehensive about drilling through the van's roof for the cables. A little bit of investigation inside the van, coupled with some lateral thinking, and I've managed to get the cables into the van via the front rooflight surround.
Having taken off the Dometic Heki perforated vents on the sliding blind structure, (they're a push/click fit,) it reveals 3-4 screws holding the blinds in place, remove these, and the blinds pull off quite easily as a complete unit. Removing the clamping screws for the Heki on the side nearest to the sliding door allows you to ease the roof lining down, and from there I was able to ascertain that I could pass cables diagonally to the void behind the control panel above the sliding door. From there, you can pass cables through a small gap into the overcab storage area, which is where I'm going to position my Victron MPPT.
The cables from the leisure batteries to the MPPT pass behind the plastic cover for the step and light switches, and can be tucked neatly behind the trim running up the side of the B pillar. There is a small gap between the rear of the overcab storage shelf and the 'arched' trim that goes from B pillar to B pillar, and I was able to push the battery cable up through this to meet up with the MPPT.
I've yet to fit the panel itself (it will be bonded to the roof with Stixall, and has a front spoiler attached) but the internal work is just about finished. The footprint of the panel can be seen in the photo - it's half the box that it arrived in!
On my van, I'm fitting a 200W Craig Solar panel (I went for the biggest wattage I could, based on the available roof space, and it measures 148cm x 68cm.)
The good thing about the Heki, is that when it is fully closed, it covers the entry point for the cables, but you do have to take this into account before drilling the holes, so that the fully closed roof doesn't interfere with the cables.

I'm happier knowing that my roof won't have any holes in it, and if the solution I've chosen ultimately fails for some reason, (although I can't think of one right now...) it will be cheaper to replace the Heki at approx. £500 rather than the whole roof!! View attachment 547008View attachment 547008View attachment 547009
Now I do like this idea. I’ve been thinking about solar for a couple of years but drilling holes in the roof of a vehicle type that is renowned for damp has always put me off. Well that and the fact that we have only run out of battery once in six years. I also don’t want to screw the panel brackets into my roof.
 
Panel finally on (had to wait for loan of access platform.) It's a tight fit, but snug. Front spoiler I attached increases the overall length, which means that the rear edge of the panel is right up to the rear overhead rooflight, and the front Heki is 2-3mm from the curve of the front spoiler when fully closed. All connected up and working fine via a Victron 75/15 MPPT connected to the 2 x 95Ah Varta leisure batteries. Leaving the Stixall to cure for 72 hours. Pleased with the result.
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Thanks for the photos and method. Very useful.

I had seen this post before, but am only now ready to sort out a solar panel and extra battery for my Cliff 600.

I don't really agree with going in through the roof light though, but you look to have made a really good job of it. There are plenty of 'skin fittings' around in the marine industry to take cables etc in that are as watertight as the original roof. I have used them on my boat and will probably do so on the van.

Also, had you routed the cables down B pillar on the other side, you could have got down to the passenger seat base where the Schault charger/controller is. That has a ready connection for your mppt solar controller, which it then distributes directly to the leisure batteries. You could have placed the mppt controller next to it then I think.

If it would stop bl**dy well raining, I could go and measure the roof to see what, if any extra space I have for a panel on my 600 :giggle:
 
Nicely done. Just one suggestion: consider using glands rather than grommets where your cables enter the rooflight. Grommets are rarely waterproof.
 
Here is my solution. Through the TV-antenna. Nothing visible on the inside as the cables went to a closet.

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Nicely done. Just one suggestion: consider using glands rather than grommets where your cables enter the rooflight. Grommets are rarely waterproof.
Did cross my mind, but not sure I’d get small enough glands to clear the Heki roof when it is shut. Grommets are nice snug fit (had to lube cables to get them in) and no sign of water ingress so far.,It helps that they are on rear face of Heki, which also shields the grommets when the roof is closed.
 
I would be very surprised if you get water in where they are. You’d need a flood of water on the roof to get to them.
 
I would be very surprised if you get water in where they are. You’d need a flood of water on the roof to get to them.
Yes, the entry point into the Heki was the highest I could get the cables away from the roof without them fouling the closed Heki roof. You could say it was planned that way….
 
Interesting solution and if it makes you feel more comfortable then it's a win win.

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As a result of this thread, I measured up and ordered the same 200w panel from Craig Solar, complete with the bits needed to attach it. I could have got his 220w panel in there as my Cliff is a 600, so a bit more room between the rooflights, but they are out of stock for a while. I also have Victron 75/15 regulator plus a bluetooth thingy around somewhere from a previous boat installation.
All I need now is a break in the weather!
 
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