Remote switch (1 Viewer)

[Figaro]

I bought this remote switch to control my fridge fans but can't get it to work.
It's got a five pin connection v+ v- which I tried using with no joy.
The other three connections are marked up NC, COM and NO.
Anybody know which I need to use to get it to switch please ?
I was testing it connecting up to a 12v bulb and a 9v battery which worked when connected directly.
TIA

1CH RF Remote Control Button Transmitter 5V-12V Switch | eBay

1CH receiver built with stability, security and in mind. Channel: 1CH. Toggle: Press once the remote button, the connects, press the remote button twice, the disconnects. Learning the Code:(Toggle).

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Diabalo]

A multi meter is your friend with this one. Connect up the supply then play with the remote and test which wires become live when you switch it on and off.

 

[oldiesontour]

The + - to constant 12v. No to fan com to 12v supply

 

[oldiesontour]

Just looked at listing write up. You need to follow pairing instructions also

 

[Figaro]

Thanks, I'll give that a try

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[rod_vw]

A multi meter is your friend with this one. Connect up the supply then play with the remote and test which wires become live when you switch it on and off.

None of the three switch wires will become live, they are the Normally Open (NO), Common (COM) and Normally Closed (NC) contacts of a relay. To test use a continuity test between the COM and one of the others.

 

[royw]

what you need to do is simple, put + and - 12v to the unit. link the live to the no and then connect fan to com, connect the - to the fan negative. when you switch the unit the no will close and connect the + to the com and power the fan. please correct me if wrong but from your descrption this should work.

 

[Vaman]

I suspect it is a follows.
As advised, use the V+ V- to 12v supply to power the receiver, then take an extra wire from the V+ at the receiver to the COM terminal and from the NO take another wire to the + on your fans. Connect the fans negative to your negative supply or chassis depending on the build of your van .
When you operate the remote it will switch the 12v via the COM (Common) terminal to the NO (normally open)terminal and supply the fans.
HTH.
PS I can do a little diagram if required

 

[Figaro]

I suspect it is a follows.
As advised, use the V+ V- to 12v supply to power the receiver, then take an extra wire from the V+ at the receiver to the COM terminal and from the NO take another wire to the + on your fans. Connect the fans negative to your negative supply or chassis depending on the build of your van .
When you operate the remote it will switch the 12v via the COM (Common) terminal to the NO (normally open)terminal and supply the fans.
HTH.
PS I can do a little diagram if required

That's very helpful, thankyou. Since last posting I've established there is continuity between NC and COMM and switches on/off with the RC
Does that change anything or should I still use the NO you suggest ?

 

[tinkertaylor]

The fridge is pulling to much current? If you have no load and it works then that's your problem. Use the device to energise a relay and feed the fridge through the relay contact.

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[Vaman]

OK the switch would under normal circumstances be closed between NC & COM, when operated it switches to NO & COM. So it appears that powering the unit cause the switch (it's a relay actually) to operate. If that is the case then use the other terminal (NC) this will mean that the fans work when you press the remote and should turn off when you press it again. Providing you follow my suggestion it should work either way, if as you say the switch(relay) appears to be energised when you put power to the receiver.
Is there a spec for the receiver (such as 12v 5A)

 

[Figaro]

OK the switch would under normal circumstances be closed between NC & COM, when operated it switches to NO & COM. So it appears that powering the unit cause the switch (it's a relay actually) to operate. If that is the case then use the other terminal (NC) this will mean that the fans work when you press the remote and should turn off when you press it again. Providing you follow my suggestion it should work either way, if as you say the switch(relay) appears to be energised when you put power to the receiver.
Is there a spec for the receiver (such as 12v 5A)

Thats great thanks, I'm just playing around with it atm using a 9v battery and a 12v lamp as I know I need to be certain I get it right as I've previously fried the fans getting the polarity wrong
I'll do as you suggest

 

[Vaman]

Any specifications or photo available?.
I just look at the link (I missed it earlier) the receiver seems very small, what is the current requirement of your fans (watts or amps)

 

[Figaro]

Any specifications or photo available?.

of what ?
Theres a link to unit in the OP

 

[Vaman]

I found another identical looking unit and its 1A rated which is very low, you will need a relay if yours is similar.

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[oldiesontour]

If yo wire it as I said use the com and no contacts then the relay will only be energised when the fans are running if you use the nc contact the relay will be energised all the time the fans are off.As said you need to check the current rating of the switch against the combined current rating of the fans

 

[oldiesontour]

If yo wire it as I said use the com and no contacts then the relay will only be energised when the fans are running if you use the nc contact the relay will be energised all the time the fans are off.As said you need to check the current rating of the switch against the combined current rating of the fans

Just had a closer look at the listing seems to be 5amp so will be fine with a couple of computer fans

 

[Figaro]

Any specifications or photo available?.
I just look at the link (I missed it earlier) the receiver seems very small, what is the current requirement of your fans (watts or amps)

It just seems to say 12v, no mention of amps

I've got two of these fans, they seem to be 0.20 amp each

ARCTIC P12 12cm 120mm Pressure Optimised 3-Pin PC Black Case Fan 1800RPM 56.3CFM 4895213701372 | eBay

Optimised for Static Pressure. Therefore, the P12 is particularly suitable for use on heatsinks and radiators. ARCTIC P14 PWM White 14cm 140mm Pressure Optimised 4-pin PC Case Fan 72.8CFM. 2 x Arctic P14 PWM White 14cm 140mm Pressure Optimised 4pin PC Case Fans 24 Del.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Vaman]

Well, the relay will handle them but a bigger relay triggered by your small relay is a better idea for reliability.
I will do a drawing for you, so you can add a relay if you want to.

 

[oldiesontour]

It just seems to say 12v, no mention of amps

I've got two of these fans, they seem to be 0.20 amp each

ARCTIC P12 12cm 120mm Pressure Optimised 3-Pin PC Black Case Fan 1800RPM 56.3CFM 4895213701372 | eBay

Optimised for Static Pressure. Therefore, the P12 is particularly suitable for use on heatsinks and radiators. ARCTIC P14 PWM White 14cm 140mm Pressure Optimised 4-pin PC Case Fan 72.8CFM. 2 x Arctic P14 PWM White 14cm 140mm Pressure Optimised 4pin PC Case Fans 24 Del.

www.ebay.co.uk

If you look at the relay it seem to have 5a it also physically looks like a 5amp relay any thing much less it would use a MOSFET so it will be fine in my opinion.However for less money you could have bought a digital adjustable thermostatic switch and fully automated the fans ( they are 10amp rated and adjustable to one degree)

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[Lenny HB]

I don't see the point much better to control the fans with a temperature controller, fit & forget.

 

[oldiesontour]

I don't see the point much better to control the fans with a temperature controller, fit & forget.

My thoughts exactly

 

[Figaro]

I don't see the point much better to control the fans with a temperature controller, fit & forget.

I had one originally but it stopped working so I rigged up a temporary on/off switch which I found I actually preferred.
The fans are quiet enough but at night I found the switching on and off quite noticable and a bit annoying, I'd have prefed them to either stay on or stay off.
I adjusted the temp settings but never seemed to get it right
Then I had the idea of this RC switch . . . . .

 

[oldiesontour]

I had one originally but it stopped working so I rigged up a temporary on/off switch which I found I actually preferred.
The fans are quiet enough but at night I found the switching on and off quite noticable and a bit annoying, I'd have prefed them to either stay on or stay off.
I adjusted the temp settings but never seemed to get it right
Then I had the idea of this RC switch . . . . .

The digital controller has a built in on off button..best of both worlds !

 

[Lenny HB]

The fans are quiet enough but at night I found the switching on and off quite noticable and a bit annoying,

Good quality fans are very quiet but 4 times the price.

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[Vaman]

Bit sketchy, but hope it helps. As I said the relay is not essential but probably more reliable in the long run.
Sketch shows wiring without extra relay as well. Note I have added a fuse, not needed if your supply is suitably fused. Would suggest 2A fuse supply or 5A max, better safe than fire engine, those wires are not very thick.

 

[tinkertaylor]

Looks like it's max amperage is 1A

DC 3.3V 3.5V 3.7V 5V 12V 1A https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NC783ZD?tag=mhf04-21

Who would have thought it ay.......

 

[Vaman]

Here is the spec from identical module on Amazon.

Product description​

Product Description:

Working Voltage: DC3.5V-DC12V
Wide Range Working VoltageC3.5V 4V 4.5V 5V 6V 9V 12V
Max Load: 1A (have better Load less than 700ma)
Quiescent Current: 4ma
Relay Working Current:20-30ma
SizeCB : 34*14*7.4mm Case :39.5*20*10.5mm
Working Mode: MomentaryToggleLatched Delaytime adjustable
Encoding Type: Learning buttonto add Transmitter etc etcc.

 

[oldiesontour]

Looks like it's max amperage is 1A

DC 3.3V 3.5V 3.7V 5V 12V 1A https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NC783ZD?tag=mhf04-21

Who would have thought it ay.......

So for switching 400ma 60,%safety margin no need for additional switching relay!

 

[tinkertaylor]

That's all great but your relying on data from sources that aren't reliable, start up current of motors far exceeds running current and the op states it works with out a load.......I think.....
but doesn't with a load.

If it quacks like a duck, walks like a duck then it's a duck. Hopefully we can get some feedback and see what the issue is....

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