Problems with electrics (1 Viewer)

[Treecol]

So looking at the electrics in my CI Cipro 55 today for the first time, DH is having a few issues. He's plugged it into the electric mains hook up. But all the lights only stay on for about 3 minutes then go off. The reading on the control panel is good for the engine battery but the leisure battery is showing 3.8 volts. Someone told him that if the leisure battery is not holding enough charge or has had it, it will not switch over to 240v to run everything. DH wonders if this is so or if the 240 hook up feed itself may have an issue. Any ideas please?

 

[pappajohn]

When on hookup the charger should provide 12v power to all 12v appliances regardless of the battery state..... But, the charger itself may be switched off or faulty.
The reading at the battery (using a multimeter) with hookup and the charger switched on should be 13v+
Also, plug something into the mains socket to check 230v hookup is working.
If it isn't it may be the main switch on the fuse box has tripped or been turned off.

Saying that, the battery is knackered and needs replacing.

 

[peterc10]

Are you aware that the liggts almost certainly work off 12v not 240v?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Treecol]

Thank you. We were told this morning, not necessarily correctly that the Led lights would be 12v and the strip lights that are tubes, 240.
DH says he tried plugging the battery charger into a wall socket whilst hooked up to 240 and it wouldn't work. He found the switch on the fuse board and it is on. But he hasn't yet checked any fuses as yet. Will do that tomorrow. I've attached a pic of the control panel as well as we don't have any instructions and can't quite work out if it will switch between power sources automatically.

 

[peterc10]

Thank you. We were told this morning, not necessarily correctly that the Led lights would be 12v and the strip lights that are tubes, 240.

I doubt very much that the strip lights will be 240v. How old is the motorhome?

 

[pappajohn]

and the strip lights that are tubes, 240.

The strips will run on 12v, they will have a very basic inverter installed in each lamp to change the 12v to 230vac.

Try something like a table lamp or hair drier in the 230v sockets to ensure they are live.
If they are and the charger won't work it could be the charger is damaged or its own switch is off.
Check the chargers case for an on off switch.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Treecol]

The MH is 2003. So where the batteries are there is no charger. DH says he has looked everywhere and cannot find one. It's tricky with no former owner to ask or an instruction book.

 

[Treecol]

Found it so tomorrow we'll investigate that. Thanks

 

[pappajohn]

It will have one.
Hidden behind/under furniture.
Under the wardrobe floor.
It won't necessarily be near the battery.

Posted at same time.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Eggs]

Found it so tomorrow we'll investigate that. Thanks

Do tell, is it under the passenger seat, it was on one my mate had. It had a reset button on the charger.

 

[Treecol]

No it's in a cupboard we didnt see under the dinnette table with the water pump.

 

[Treecol]

So had a good fiddle with things today and the photo shows what I'm sure you all know is inside right behind the external electric hook up point. When plugged into main, the light on it dies not come on when we press the test button on it. We've checked all the fuses and also the charging unit we found yesterday doesn't have its own fuse or reset.
The external flap on the hookup point has been broken off and at the top of the white electric lead coating, the internal wires are visible. We're wondering if they have been pulled out from the unit itself.
Aside from that, anyone got any other ideas as to what could stop that hook up from working?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

When plugged into main, the light on it dies not come on when we press the test button on it.

That switch thing is, for future reference, an RCBO (not an RCD or MCB). It combines the function of an RCD and MCB. The 'C16' shows it protects against overcurrent greater than 16 amps, like an MCB would. The '0.03A' shows it protects against electric shock and leakage greater than 30mA, like an RCD would.

Pressing the 'TEST' button should trip the RCBO, so that the supply is cut off. That shows that the shock protection is working properly. Obviously you have to switch it back ON after the test, or nothing will work.

Hookup points can be strained by driving off with the hookup cable still attached, something us experienced motorhomers never ever do - more than once a year, anyway. If you look a bit closer you might be able to tell if that's what happened.

 

[autorouter]

That mains switch is not the battery charger. I'd be looking for another box, maybe with a dozen car-type 12V fuses on the front, and inside it or maybe next to it will be the mains charger.

 

[Treecol]

There is also a charger unit in the same box as the batteries. We've driven out into the forest in it today in spite of the torrential rain, the leisure battery, which is not fully charged and lost charge overnight did take a little more charge as we drove here suggesting the charger is working. Obviously on 12v the interior lights go out quickly as before.
So DH plans to run a main lead from indoor plugged in to a plug socket inside the MH. If that powers a kettle etc, we know the hook up point is definately the issue. We need 2 x leisure batteries as both are u/s!

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

So DH plans to run a main lead from indoor plugged in to a plug socket inside the MH.

If that means what I think it means, I hope you have a top-quality shock protection RCD on the indoor end!!

An alternative method is to get a cheap multimeter, and learn how to do a 'Continuity Test'. Youtube is your friend for this. It's a simple test that verifies that a wire is in one continuous piece and makes a connection between the two test points. Disconnect the MH from the hookup before doing any continuity tests, of course.

A multimeter is a basic requirement for all kinds of electrical investigations in the motorhome, especially regarding batteries and charging.

 

[Treecol]

Ok so plugged a lead into garage socket then into socket in MH. The other plug sockets in the MH worked for the 1st time. So it would seem there is an issue with the 240 hook up point. The lights still went off after a couple of minutes so clearly they are 12v as some of you already suggested and the shot leisure batteries mean the lighting system is shutting down. So new batteries tomorrow and investigate the hook up.
Thank you all for our in put. Really helpful

 

[Treecol]

Also the most confusing part, although I'm comparing this to caravans, there seems to be no way to switch the power supply from mains 240v to 12v on the control panel. Is this normal?!

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

The usual setup is for all the habitation electrics to work from the habitation battery. Except that some gas heaters and water heaters have an extra option of 240V electric elements. And the mains sockets, obviously.

The mains charger keeps the habitation battery topped up, and lights, water pump, fridge control and heater/water heater controls all work from the battery. It's left connected permanently, and comes on automatically when hookup is connected.

The idea is the motorhome works just as well off hookup as on hookup, especially if you have solar panels to top up the batteries. Also a good idea to use 12v/USB to charge your phone, and a 12V adaptor to power a laptop.

Edit: Downside is, if the habitation battery's no good, nothing works. But you know that

 

[Richard n Ann]

Get one of these compact clamp meters, they have great DC current ranges for working with vehicles.. They come with leads for measuring voltage, continuity and resistance. Also comes with a case, and mine is very accurate. I've had loads of multimeters in my life half of them expensive Fluke ones, this cheaper one is the best ??

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=283778626136

 

[Treecol]

OK DH has sorted it!
He found the wires had been pulled out of the hook up point. So he's done that, taken out the leisure batteries and plugged her in. Everything works so obviously the lights work off the 240 system.
Just got to get 2 new batteries now. Thank you again for all your in put. Very very helpful.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

Everything works so obviously the lights work off the 240 system.

Yes and no. I think the lights are likely to be 12V lights, working from the 240V charger which is acting as a 12V power supply. In theory the lights could be 240V, but every motorhome I've seen has 12V lights.

If you get new batteries, get a multimeter and keep an eye on the battery voltage, until you are confident there's not some underlying fault that's trashed the batteries. You don't want to be ruining your new batteries.

 

[Treecol]

Thank you that makes sense. Just one more thing, if we replace the leisure batteries now, bearing in mind we have some work to do on the MH before we use it, do we have to keep them fed with an optimised whilst not in use, or will they happily hold their charge?

 

[Richard n Ann]

Thank you that makes sense. Just one more thing, if we replace the leisure batteries now, bearing in mind we have some work to do on the MH before we use it, do we have to keep them fed with an optimised whilst not in use, or will they happily hold their charge?

They may be ok for a month or two if absolutely everything is switched off but same as autorouter says, keep an eye on them, they may well have a small drain on them. I've got an Optimate 2 on our engine battery and a smart charger on the leisure battery 24/7 ?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Treecol]

So would keeping it connected to the 240 hook up charge the leisure battery when not in use?

 

[Spriddler]

It should. Check the voltage at the battery posts with a meter when the 240v is connected. If the battery is being charged you will get a voltage reading greater than the voltage reading when the 240v has been disconnected.

 

[TheBig1]

Treecol what part of Dorset are you in? I am at the edge of Christchurch if you are local and may be able to pop over and help with advice

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Treecol]

Thank you very much we'd appreciate that. We're just outside Ringwood so a short trundle from you. I'll PM you DH's mobile,

 

[Treecol]

Just to update that DH had the leisure batteries checked today before purchasing new. One was caputo, but the other was good. So he put that one alone in the MH and the lights still went off after a minute and the control panel was showing it as 4.7v yet the tester showed the battery as fully charged. Obviously we need to buy a voltage meter to start checking things. Don't know if the control panel itself could be faulty or somewhere in the electrical system. The wall sockets work fine now off 240v.
The Big 1 is very kindly calling in on Saturday to help - what a fine bunch of folks you are here.
Any suggestions prior to that very welcome.