Peugeot Boxer - D+ in a standard van without the Electrical connections interface box (4 Viewers)

[LBE]

My first post.....but have been learning a lot on the forum since July. Really helpful when I am starting out on my first DIY van build where I've told the wife it's all within my capability..... so thank you!!

What's the 'Electrical Connections Interface box'? (apologies if I am asking you to suck eggs here...)

Its located at the bottom of the (UK) driver’s side ‘B’ pillar (next to the handbrake). Fiat refer to it as an “Electrical Interface Supply Socket (For Conversions)” option 081 and Citroen simply the “Conversion interface box”. Across all manufacturers it is an optional extra, specified at manufacture.

Its intended use is for vehicle converters who wish to interface with the vehicle electrics and caters for the following;

• A switched 12V signal which is live when the ignition is on (KEY+)
• A charging signal (from which a D+ “charging” signal can be obtained)
• High current connections to the cab battery
• Rear speaker connections

Extremely useful for all whose converting their own van but only any good, if it was specified at manufacturer. In my case, sadly, it was not.

I need/want to pick up a D+ Signal to run to by Victron B2B Charger. I know there are other ways around this (live feed from ACC or a simple switch even) but being a perfectionist I am keen to go the D+route if at all impossible.

Traditionally, alternators have a D+ output but from want I can gather on a 68 plate Boxer van the output on the alternator is a Can-bus affair running to the NBC (On-board Computer) located behind the passenger side dash. Not overly happy about splicing into that nor routing the cabling through the bulkhead.

I found a Training Manual for the Boxer van on line and it appears that pin 25 on the AV connector on the Front Face of the NBC is an 'Alternator D+ Positive Signal'.

My question is this...Has anyone spliced into this to run to the trigger connector on a Relay (with Diode) to simulate a D+ signal?

 

[gus-lopez]

sorry I cannot help but hope someone will be along soon who can.

 

[Lenny HB]

Probably easier to run a cable directly to the D+ on the alternator. If only running the B2B from the D+ that will be OK. If running more appliances that require the D+ then fit a relay with the coil connected to D+ and ground then wire one side of normally open contacts to the starter battery via a fuse and the other side of the contact can supply all your D+ connections without overloading the D+ output on the alternator.

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[LBE]

Thx for the responces.

I have got around this by working through the alternatives to using a D+ input until I found one that for works for me.

So the solution was to get a ACC connection rather than a D+ (using a piggy back fuse in the main fuse box on the drivers side) and routing this cable to the B2B charger.

In my case I have chosen a Victron Energy DC-DC Non-Isolated Charger: Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15A. After reading the instruction properly (doh!) it has an input port for D+ or ACC or Switch and has on board functionality to identify when the engine is running which is adjustable (through the Vitron connection app) so as to cater for length of cable run, voltage drop off etc. etc.

Theoretically this means I can sit with the ignition on but the engine not running for as long as I like and Leisure Battery wont charge. Once the engine starts the B2B charger will recognize the increase in voltage and start charging the leisure battery. When the engine stops it will recognize that and switch the charging off, might be a bit of delay but nothing to worry about.

Clearly I need to test that in practice but on paper it should work. I am pretty certain I could get it to work without the ACC feed, but just on the sensing, but it gives me a little more insurance.