N&B CBE control panel and general 12v shenanigans!

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Sep 17, 2015
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N&B Flair 8000iL
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Hi all

You will have no doubt seen my various posts re pumps, electrical and batteries.

I think all my issues are revolving around the battery charger and the CBE control panel and distribution board.

The water pump started working yesterday and then this morning wasn't working anymore. I've changed all the fuses, both leisure batteries and the relay. My only conclusion is that I either have a loose pin on the distribution board or the whole thing needs replaced.

The CBE system is a PC-540HY if that means anything. Seeing as the system is 14 years old and the original charger has been replaced, is it possible to replace the whole lot? Or are the pin configurations on the distribution board all type specific?

I could fire the wagon up to Travelworld (who have sneakily moved from where I thought they were!) and get them to sort but I like my bank balance and my time is free!!

I may well just chalk it up to being underinformed (read too stupid to figure!) and get a professional to have a look!!

Are there any sneaky relays or fuses that are not in the normal place on the 2006 flair? I may have missed one!!

Thanks in advance

Paul
 
Hi Paul

Is it just the water pump playing up as it wouldn’t be worth a new CBE just for that, the PC-540 HY is specific to N+B in that the HY means Hymer group, when it isn’t working is there still power as far as the fuse or even the pump as ultimately it is controlled by a pressure switch on the end of the pump.
 
i have a spare pump.... ill wire it up and see
 
nope.... nothing. I did notice yesterday when it started working that the external pump light was on for the first time. now that doesn't light up either so I'm assuming its the 12v system
 
Oh hang on.... would i need to connect the water too? if so ill need to drain 200L of fresh I've just fired in!!

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I don't have an external pump just the switch and the pump socket. yesterday the switch had a light on it. now nothing. I've checked and changed the fuses so I'm left with a loose wire?

Think ill swap out the whole pump anyway and then ill know
 
The only external pump switch is the one in the locker, I guess you have the Whale inlet system? When the external pump is plugged in and switched on it disables the internal pump.
 
yeah, that's the one. I was faffing about with the switch yesterday and the internal pump came on as i had left the tap open. I wonder if the problem is the whale switch? is it possible that the system thinks its switched on? wonder if i could short the switch to a permanent off?

however, there is no light on the switch now..
 
yeah, that's the one. I was faffing about with the switch yesterday and the internal pump came on as i had left the tap open. I wonder if the problem is the whale switch? is it possible that the system thinks its switched on? wonder if i could short the switch to a permanent off?

however, there is no light on the switch now..
You have turned it on at the panel? just checking.

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a simple question, well 2 actually. have you got a digital multimeter? and do you how to use it?

This will speed up trouble shooting rapidly. The very worst thing you can do is start disconnecting wires and changing parts without knowing the fault. All too easy to introduce another fault complicating matters
 
yes!!! there have been a few times its been off mind.....
Are you saying that the pump switch doesn't light up/the pump only works when the switch is lit up, suggest the problem is right back at that switch, if everything else is right on the panel it wouldn't be rocket science to wire the pump separately and it would keep a chunk of cash in your bank.
 
Are you saying that the pump switch doesn't light up/the pump only works when the switch is lit up, suggest the problem is right back at that switch, if everything else is right on the panel it wouldn't be rocket science to wire the pump separately and it would keep a chunk of cash in your bank.

when the switch light is on and I then turn it off, the internal pump works. when it won’t light up at all, nothing works.... toilet is also the same

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a simple question, well 2 actually. have you got a digital multimeter? and do you how to use it?

This will speed up trouble shooting rapidly. The very worst thing you can do is start disconnecting wires and changing parts without knowing the fault. All too easy to introduce another fault complicating matters
Yes and sort of... I can test for continuity and volts and loads of other stuff that I’ve forgotten since I bought it!. I’m ashamed to say that I did a Part P and 17th edition course about 6 years ago. 240 I’m ok with as its 3 wires or 4 with a light switch.....

I have ordered a book on 12v Motorhome wiring off amazon.
 
when the switch light is on and I then turn it off, the internal pump works. when it won’t light up at all, nothing works.... toilet is also the same
Toilet is off the same pump and it all works off the pressure switch on the end of the pump, get power to the pump and you should be up and running.
 
I’m wondering if I have a loose connection somewhere? That will explain the on off ness of it?
 
I will swap out the pump completely just to ensure it’s not the pump being a git!
 
Use your multi meter to check for 12v at the pump, no power no worky,

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Yes and sort of... I can test for continuity and volts and loads of other stuff that I’ve forgotten since I bought it!. I’m ashamed to say that I did a Part P and 17th edition course about 6 years ago. 240 I’m ok with as its 3 wires or 4 with a light switch.....

I have ordered a book on 12v Motorhome wiring off amazon.
then check for voltage at the fuse, at the switch and then at the non working item (pump). Should take 5 minutes to see if there is a good circuit.

The CBE control board is slightly more complicated, but establish if it is getting a voltage and if the relays get energised. There is a history of them failing though
 
then check for voltage at the fuse, at the switch and then at the non working item (pump). Should take 5 minutes to see if there is a good circuit.

The CBE control board is slightly more complicated, but establish if it is getting a voltage and if the relays get energised. There is a history of them failing though


I'm getting 12v at the fuse. 0.3v at the pump with a tap on/off.

I'm also getting this on the control panel among other errors (battery discharge etc)
 

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The time the pump works was when i removed the CBE panel for about 10 minutes then plugged it back in
 
The time the pump works was when i removed the CBE panel for about 10 minutes then plugged it back in
that makes me more convinced that the control panel is faulty and shutting down. The regular fault with these panels is that they shut down if the battery level drops too low and then refuse to come back on when the batteries are charged. There is a firm that can try and fix it, but most times it is beyond fixing. A replacement can be sourced but needs programming by N&B. The price for the new boards is eye watering expensive and no guarantee it won't fail again

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read this thread if you want to cry
 
read this thread if you want to cry
i read that one a few weeks ago!! I’ve budgeted to replace the whole thing. I’m just tight and would rather see if I can fix first.

now do I need to use an N&B replacement or can I use any CBE panel or a complete change to a newer CBE system?
 
i read that one a few weeks ago!! I’ve budgeted to replace the whole thing. I’m just tight and would rather see if I can fix first.

now do I need to use an N&B replacement or can I use any CBE panel or a complete change to a newer CBE system?
personally I would take the opportunity to change to a newer less bug prone system. All the wiring is in place to do it, but you will need to do it one circuit at a time and label the wires for any later issues. It should be a lot cheaper than buying a programmed one from N&B too
 
Oh hang on.... would i need to connect the water too? if so ill need to drain 200L of fresh I've just fired in!!
For info only...... If the water isn't connected the pump will run continously until power is removed.
It's water pressure which switches it off.
 
personally I would take the opportunity to change to a newer less bug prone system. All the wiring is in place to do it, but you will need to do it one circuit at a time and label the wires for any later issues. It should be a lot cheaper than buying a programmed one from N&B too
What would you suggest I change to?

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