Microswitch in hymer tap

Northernraider

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My kitchen tap mocroswitch has packed in and it's a right pain in the ass.

Has anyone replaced one of these on a 2004 era hymer that can show me which type is fitted and how I access it.

I'd rather get a new switch from somewhere before I remove tap etc
20190309_214826.jpg
 
If its like ours, 2012, the tap lever comes off. On ours you press a small stud at back of the lever bit.
Once lever is off a plastic cover is exposed, remove the screw and the plastic cover comes off with switch pressed into it. The wires from switch go into the tap and under the sink. Usual problem is wire broken due to movement as tap is operated. May be able to solder wire or getnew switch.
My switch is a Marquardt 1058/0351, about £7 from rs components.
Alternatively yours is different so the above can safely be ignored.......
 
I don't think that is original fit but I believe they all work in a similar way. Prise off a cap on the lever, undo screen to remove lever and access switch.
Your problem might be sourcing the correct switch. Having said that, it's probably the wire snapped so repair may be possible.
 
Hmmm there's nothing on the lever no buttons no cap to access screw etc

But does seem to be original tap ....this one's for sale by travelworld
Screenshot_20190309-223605_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20190309-223636_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Yes that looks like yours, can`t help further sorry.
If there is no way to remove the lever (that`d be suprising) then new tap may be only solution.

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To remove the lever there will either be a grub screw under a press on cover, or unscrew the lever it’s self, and the grub screw may be beneath that.
 
I've managed to suss it out and got access to the switch and yes it's a broken wire someone has soldered before but badly ....I'll have a go tomorrow as I've a soldering iron etc with me

Thanks for replies(y)
 
well done for getting the tap assembly striped down, and discovering that a badly soldered wire has come adrift.
Great also that you have a soldering iron in the toolbag, but question is, being a full time FLT, where are you going to plug in the soldering iron?..nearest streetlight or what?:whistle:
I dont remember you mentioning that you had an inverter, but if you do, great stuff.
Did you ever manage to get the water pressure improvement that you were after before you left home?
From what I have gathered thus far on here, those tap micro switches can be a real pain, as they can just go at anytime. Might be worth having a couple of spare ones on board, once a supplier is located.
Shame they dont just have an in-line pressure valve, that when a tap is opened and water is called for, the water pump switches on and delivers the water. I guess there must be a reason for this arrangement of submersible pumps and micro switched taps.
Les
 
well done for getting the tap assembly striped down, and discovering that a badly soldered wire has come adrift.
Great also that you have a soldering iron in the toolbag, but question is, being a full time Fork Lift Truck, where are you going to plug in the soldering iron?..nearest streetlight or what?:whistle:
I dont remember you mentioning that you had an inverter, but if you do, great stuff.
Did you ever manage to get the water pressure improvement that you were after before you left home?
From what I have gathered thus far on here, those tap micro switches can be a real pain, as they can just go at anytime. Might be worth having a couple of spare ones on board, once a supplier is located.
Shame they dont just have an in-line pressure valve, that when a tap is opened and water is called for, the water pump switches on and delivers the water. I guess there must be a reason for this arrangement of submersible pumps and micro switched taps.
Les
Being a fork lift truck I've 200 wattsolar powering a 3000watt inverter that to be honest except charging my shaver and my Hoover I rarely use . But it can work my drill , soldering iron etc.
The poor pressure was down to the pump being wired the wrong way round but I've a spare pump with me just incase.

Hopefully it will solder and hold for now.

My last van was a pressurised system which I preferred but seems hymer opts for the submersible system.

Water pressure isn't bad now and a shower uses maybe 7 or 8 litres water which is good
 
Hi. Not sure if it’s of any help, but we found the spare parts for our Reich tap on our Dethleffs at Leisureshopdirect.

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/w...-spare-parts/microswitch-for-reich-twist-taps

Not connected to them in any way. Just found what we needed.
Problem is I'm in Spain and not planning to be home for a long time so can't use mail order.

Hopefully once soldered it will last a while

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Not that you need it or could get one now, but you can get a 12v soldering iron. We have one and it works well, hubbys used it for several jobs.
Good luck with the tap!
 
well done for getting the tap assembly striped down, and discovering that a badly soldered wire has come adrift.
Great also that you have a soldering iron in the toolbag, but question is, being a full time Fork Lift Truck, where are you going to plug in the soldering iron?..nearest streetlight or what?:whistle:
I dont remember you mentioning that you had an inverter, but if you do, great stuff.
Did you ever manage to get the water pressure improvement that you were after before you left home?
From what I have gathered thus far on here, those tap micro switches can be a real pain, as they can just go at anytime. Might be worth having a couple of spare ones on board, once a supplier is located.
Shame they dont just have an in-line pressure valve, that when a tap is opened and water is called for, the water pump switches on and delivers the water. I guess there must be a reason for this arrangement of submersible pumps and micro switched taps.
Les
A submersible pump (which has a much higher flow rate than a diaphragm pump) works well on a pressure system. Pressure systems also have / cause problems: a tiny leak will empty the water tank - usually onto the floor. Incidentally a work-around until a microswitch is sourced or repaired is to open the faulty tap from which water is required then open another tap just enough to operate its microswitch. Small gas soldering irons are good for on-the-road repairs.
 
Told you it would be the wire a month or two ago.:ROFLMAO:

No point in buying a new switch as same thing can happen with a new one.
Be careful how you route the wires or they get trapped again when you swivel the tap head. Often takes a couple of repairs to get it right.
 
When I had a problem with ours I swapped the wire for a more flexible wire, soldered it close to the switch. the ones that come with switch is quite stiff wire.
 
When I had the same I just bought a cheap light switch from a Chinese bazar for about €1 and wired it across the broken switch wires below. I then later bought a pressure switch and converted the system, much better. But I also put a relay in curculit operated from the +D terminal so as to switch off when engine is running.
Steve

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Told you it would be the wire a month or two ago.:ROFLMAO:

No point in buying a new switch as same thing can happen with a new one.
Be careful how you route the wires or they get trapped again when you swivel the tap head. Often takes a couple of repairs to get it right.
Aye the hot water stopped working on that tap a few weeks back but cold stopped yesterday ...

I've soldered it now , I did it in situ so didn't have to reroute wires. Covered it in insulting tape and it's working for now.

Probably break again but hopefully last a whike. I'll pick up a spare switch just incase when I can
 
Aye the hot water stopped working on that tap a few weeks back but cold stopped yesterday ...

I've soldered it now , I did it in situ so didn't have to reroute wires. Covered it in insulting tape and it's working for now.

Probably break again but hopefully last a whike. I'll pick up a spare switch just incase when I can

Did you need to call it nasty names ;)
 
Aye the hot water stopped working on that tap a few weeks back but cold stopped yesterday ...

I've soldered it now , I did it in situ so didn't have to reroute wires. Covered it in insulting tape and it's working for now.

Probably break again but hopefully last a whike. I'll pick up a spare switch just incase when I can
Thanks all, same happened and had no idea how to disassemble the tap. Answer was here, unscrew the lever.

I made the mistake of pulling the wire out, the hardest part was rethreading through such a small hole.

As a temp repair have twisted and insulate tape. It works hopefully it will hold until I can do a better job.

Got me out of trouble on this trip.
 

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