Making a fibreglass shower tray? Or Epoxy Resin? (1 Viewer)

Sep 16, 2013
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I know there are a few Funsters that know about this material, so is this a feasible thing to do?

My only experience with fibreglass was as a kid, helping my Dad with boat repairs.

Thinking along the lines of a plywood frame, then fibreglass covering, a lot of sanding, then a finish.

I don't have the time to make a mould.

So, can this be done and if so, what would I need?

Waterproofing with fibreglass and sanding would be simple enough (I think?), but what about a finish? What sort of matt and resin? Anything else?

Would really appreciate some help here.

PS This is for a custom shaped tray, so off-the-shelf isn't really an option.
 
Feb 22, 2011
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I've only very limited experience of fibreglass but I think it would be an awful lot of work to get it to looking like a professional job
 
Dec 6, 2011
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its a long while since I made anything in fiber glass, but i don't think you will get the finish or the clean lines unless you make some sort of mould.

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Jamesh

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Don't know how good a finish you would get.

Would need a few filler coats to get a smooth finish.


I'd suggest using epoxy rather than polyester resin.

Don't use chop strand Matt as it's for polyester use a thin cloth 100gms your just waterproofing the ply not giving it strength in its own right.

You could cut some dowels in half lengthwise which you could epoxy onto of the glass cloth and epoxy over for anti slip.
 
Feb 16, 2019
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Usually with a mould itā€™s the inverse of the finishEd product, so after waxing you apply the finish first (gel coat) then the fibre mat.
what you are proposing is the opposite way around.
This is the way a fibre glass flat roof is applied.
Mat first and gel coat to finish.
Had the same thought as you to do the same.
If it turned out too rough for your feet, then you could fit a duck board to stand on ?
 
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Wissel
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What about using an Epoxy Resin over ply? Would it crack?

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Silver-Fox

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You need to make a pattern up.
Then mould to the outside of it.

Itā€™s a lot of work.

I would make a mould then go to a professional to lay up the fibreglass.

Buy the time youā€™ve bought gel coat etc it will cost a fortune.
 
Dec 6, 2011
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What about using an Epoxy Resin over ply? Would it crack?

perhaps if you used a coarse matting as a sub structure and flood with the Epoxy it might work. but how will you get the finish and edges that you will want
 

Terry

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Hi David, yes it's quite easy ,done about 7/8 . I used resin and fibreglass matting.Top gel coat . Where I used to live was a company that made bins and roof light's. Used to get resin and top coat which was basically resin with a white gel stuff mixed in. I put a small 45degree fill it so that it was not a Sharpe 90 angle.Simply mixed resin with hardener ,poured about a gallon onto base and spread it out and up sides about four ins,added the matting then let it go off overnight. Did a quick sand down next day then mixed the gel coat /hardener, again poured it onto bottom and brushed it up the side's. This basically found its own level and left overnight again. It gave a decent finish that I then let the shower boarding stop about 2 ins from the bottom giving a good 2 ins lapping into the tray.
 

Two on Tour

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I used to make fibreglass moulds and produce small runs of fibreglass bodies cars.

It may well be quicker and easier if you can to cut and modify an existing shower tray to suit your needs and then produce a buck mould to make the finished article from your buck.

Message me David if I can help.

1644433814397.png


1644433824055.png
 

busbuddy

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There was a guy on ebay who advertised replacement sinks, (cromaboo I think šŸ¤”) I got him to make me a new fibreglass shower tray to replace the flimsy Tupperware swift one
He was in colchester and did boats for his main job

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Jamesh

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I used to make fibreglass moulds and produce small runs of fibreglass bodies cars.

It may well be quicker and easier if you can to cut and modify an existing shower tray to suit your needs and then produce a buck mould to make the finished article from your buck.

Message me David if I can help.

View attachment 584081

View attachment 584082
What car is that?!

What's the donor vehicle if Kit car!

Looks tidy!!
 

MisterB

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enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
Have you considered tiling the shower tray? I know there's a lot of movement but you might be able to 'float' the tray after tiling with flexible adhesive? A floating tray is basically what you would get with a preformed tray.
 

sonar

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You could also remove the tray repair it with filler polish and make a mould even though you said you did not want to make a mould.
if you do the mould will be worth something or making another tray would pay for your new tray.
then sell the moulding.

it would be a site easier to do this than produce a new tray from scratch.
 

Two on Tour

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That is a fine looking vehicle.

What size engine would the base vehicle take

Two on Tour

An "A" series1275cc bored out to 1380cc with high lift cam, ported and polished head, and a Weber 45 DCOE carb. Even fitted with heated front windscreens. The cars weighs in at about 700Kg

The race one is on trick suspension and the engine is bored and stroked to 1440cc

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Feb 19, 2018
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Might it be possible to make the shower tray out of marine ply and then, first paint and then coat with jel-coat & Hardener or whatever they use on concrete hulled boats??
 

pandjb

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I made a full size shower tray / wheel arch cover out of mdf, took it to a local stainless fabricator and got them to copy it in brushed stainless steel.
Van convertor was able to integrate it into the build very successfully.
Shower.JPG
Looks fab and works a treat!
 
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funflair

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Hi David

Basically you have two options,

If you want a really smooth finish it would be easier to make a mold as you basically make the reverse of what you want first so you would be finishing an outside profile and then making the mold but yes it is more work.

Your second option is basically as Terry says, make your basic shape in ply and the line it with Polyester resin and glass fibre, if you use a cloth or tissue as your last layer and keep it smooth you will reduce the amount of sanding before finishing it with a filled gel coat with MW solution to make it cure without being sticky, if you stipple this coat with a brush you can again cut down on the sanding and finishing as it would just need a rub over with 400 wet and dry then a buff up with compound and it will be a bit "non slip".

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Terry

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Morning David,I forgot to say cut the mattings into workable sizes before you start šŸ˜‰I was also given a small (about 5/6ins) ribbed aluminium roller to squash the matting into the resin šŸ‘I am sure Martin funflair will know the name of it.
 

funflair

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Morning David,I forgot to say cut the mattings into workable sizes before you start šŸ˜‰I was also given a small (about 5/6ins) ribbed aluminium roller to squash the matting into the resin šŸ‘I am sure Martin funflair will know the name of it.
That would be a paddle roller with the ribs running the length but some rollers they go around it, the trick is to not use too much rsin though as it is brittle so you only want enough to impregnate the matt.

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Feb 25, 2020
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Follow Two On Tour advice and you will not be far wrong, I have just spent January making a buck ( male impression of what I want to end up with )
 

Terry

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That would be a paddle roller with the ribs running the length but some rollers they go around it, the trick is to not use too much rsin though as it is brittle so you only want enough to impregnate the matt.
I used to put more layers of matting until I basically used it all upšŸ˜If I remember right I used to get 2 ten ltr buckets 1 of each top coat and resin and around 3 yds X 2 yds of thick matting,oh and a coffee jar of hardener šŸ‘for Ā£20 and a box of biscuits šŸ˜

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Silver-Fox

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An "A" series1275cc bored out to 1380cc with high lift cam, ported and polished head, and a Weber 45 DCOE carb. Even fitted with heated front windscreens. The cars weighs in at about 700Kg

The race one is on trick suspension and the engine is bored and stroked to 1440cc

I like.

Your not just a pretty face then Two on Tour šŸ˜Š
 
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Wissel
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Thanks for all your help on this guy's, all your replies gave me a bit of direction on a subject I knew little about.

I've done a fair bit more research now and, as suggested by a few of you, think I like this process:



This would allow me to get the shape I want.

Finish wise, I like the idea of using a few coats of gelcoat and sanding, then finishing with a flowcoat that can be sprayed. This should give me a nice finish I think.

I'm going to speak with the company in the video tomorrow to get more advice. If the call goes well I'll order all the bits I need.
I'm a little surprised by the cost - in a good way as it's less than I thought it would be. Makes a nice change (y)

I also like that the same company supply epoxy resins, that I have another project in mind for, and carbon fibre products. Hoping they turn into a good partner for all these materials, but happy to look at other suppliers if anyone has any suggestions or reasons why this company might be a bad choice? Their reviews look good.
 

Two on Tour

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I have used Easy Composites a few times and the guys there are very approachable and readily offer advice.


They have made a few videos, and I thought this one might be right up your street to offer something unique in your builds.

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