Macerator pump for grey water (1 Viewer)

Feb 16, 2013
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Ok I know there is another macerator thread but this is a different thing.
Now our grey water has always been slow to empty and a pain to have to get down to in wet ground.
So, advised in another thread a while ago that a small macerator pump would go inline and I could just switch it on when needed so I have bought one like this.
<Broken link removed>
Has anyone else done this ?and any tips how to do it.
I am thinking of having the outlet pipe go up higher than the tank and down again so that I won't need a tap on it, will this work? or will it tend to siphon.
Any advice really accepted with thanks.
 

Langtoftlad

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Bit confused - thought a macerator was to chop up solids?
Why would solids be in your grey water?

My grey water has also been slow to drain... but following some advice on the WEG FB group I've removed a baffle from the tap... a baffle which seems to serve no obvious function other to slow the flow.

Is it possible you have a similar baffle in your waste tap?
 
OP
OP
chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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Bit confused - thought a macerator was to chop up solids?
Why would solids be in your grey water?

My grey water has also been slow to drain... but following some advice on the WEG FB group I've removed a baffle from the tap... a baffle which seems to serve no obvious function other to slow the flow.

Is it possible you have a similar baffle in your waste tap?
I decided to go with a macerator pump as it should take anything that might be in their, food waste or something, I could have put a normal water pump in but run the risk of getting bunged up, and they are smaller bore, and not much different in price.

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sallylillian

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The pump will handle any residue food waste in the grey tank however hair will create a long term issue requiring you to remove the pump every few months and clear the maceration blade. I am reasonably confident that you will not have a syphon problem with your proposed installation mine does not pass liquid until its turned on. Discharge will be in fire fighting mode🤣
 
OP
OP
chaser
Feb 16, 2013
19,505
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Bit confused - thought a macerator was to chop up solids?
Why would solids be in your grey water?

My grey water has also been slow to drain... but following some advice on the WEG FB group I've removed a baffle from the tap... a baffle which seems to serve no obvious function other to slow the flow.

Is it possible you have a similar baffle in your waste tap?
Waste tap is what I am trying to get rid of. Not too good on the bending department.
 

sallylillian

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You are right an ordinary pump with impeller or diaphragm would be buggered with any solid food waste.

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sallylillian

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One thing you will need to check is the head it can suck from these pumps are designed to have a head of liquid and don't like being run dry (there is an impeller) which provides the umpf.
 
OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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One thing you will need to check is the head it can suck from these pumps are designed to have a head of liquid and don't like being run dry (there is an impeller) which provides the umpf.
It will be below the tank but the outlet will be routed above the tank.
 

pappajohn

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You will need to find why its a slow discharge and fix that first. Could just be the pipe and/or tap is too small.
The macerator may be damaged if its trying to discharge but the flow to the macerator is too slow.

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Apr 26, 2015
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It will be below the tank but the outlet will be routed above the tank.

You may find that the macerator will be unable to pull the waste water over the top as it were, it may need a head of water above it in order to work.
 
OP
OP
chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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You may find that the macerator will be unable to pull the waste water over the top as it were, it may need a head of water above it in order to work.
The outlet will go over the top not inlet, the inlet will go straight in the bottom of the tank about two inches away.
 
OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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You will need to find why its a slow discharge and fix that first. Could just be the pipe and/or tap is too small.
The macerator may be damaged if its trying to discharge but the flow to the macerator is too slow.
It's got an inch and half inlet which will go straight in the bottom of the tank.

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cmcardle75

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You could just fit an electrically operated valve instead. Probably more reliable and would let you replace any dodgy pipework that is restricting the flow.
 
OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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That should sort the slow flow. I assumed you would connect directly to the outlet pipe close to the tank.
Something like this, not to any scale or plan just the general design.
IMG_20210330_144735265.jpg

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OP
OP
chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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You could just fit an electrically operated valve instead. Probably more reliable and would let you replace any dodgy pipework that is restricting the flow.
Yes that was my first idea, but thought this might be a better plan, we shall see :unsure:
 

sallylillian

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Something like this, not to any scale or plan just the general design.View attachment 478977
Looks OK, just make sure the pump is easily removable, maybe a valve between it and the tank in case it needs to come off when the tank is full?

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Mar 14, 2019
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The pump will handle any residue food waste in the grey tank however hair will create a long term issue requiring you to remove the pump every few months and clear the maceration blade. I am reasonably confident that you will not have a syphon problem with your proposed installation mine does not pass liquid until its turned on. Discharge will be in fire fighting mode🤣
Do you know what diameter the pipework is. Older caravans used such small pipes that it took ages to empty the hand basin or sink. Later vans seem to have gone in the UK to 28mm. Allowing chopped up food into the waste tank is, IMO, asking for trouble with smells which are not noticed in a domestic situation due to the trap in the outflow whereas motorhomes/caravans do not use them so you will probably find after a while the smells coming up the drain pipe.

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OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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Neither had I but that's going to make installing more of a problem even if it's a 1½" valve.
Back to the electronic valve again now :doh: :giggle:
Do you know what diameter the pipework is. Older caravans used such small pipes that it took ages to empty the hand basin or sink. Later vans seem to have gone in the UK to 28mm. Allowing chopped up food into the waste tank is, IMO, asking for trouble with smells which are not noticed in a domestic situation due to the trap in the outflow whereas motorhomes/caravans do not use them so you will probably find after a while the smells coming up the drain pipe.
Pipes are all sorts of sizes, whatever came to hand when I was building it, but the pipe work from the sink and shower had u bends incorporated.
 

sallylillian

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Allowing chopped up food into the waste tank is, IMO, asking for trouble with smells which are not noticed in a domestic situation due to the trap in the outflow whereas motorhomes/caravans do not use them so you will probably find after a while the smells coming up the drain pipe.
I agree and my wife works really hard to stop anything going down the sink for the very reasons you quote. She has a hair trap in the shower and regularly cleans the main shower trap. BUT, waste and hair still finds its way into the tank and it will kill an impeller or diaphragm pump.

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sallylillian

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Neither had I but that's going to make installing more of a problem even if it's a 1½" valve plus the maserator is going to need some form of support.
The pump has a mounting plate with rubber isolation bushes, so a man of Chasers skill will easily fabricate a bracket which will support both the pump at the PVC valve.

Another point, check the thread on the pump many are 1.5 inch NPT not BSP
 
OP
OP
chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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The pump has a mounting plate with rubber isolation bushes, so a man of Chasers skill will easily fabricate a bracket which will support both the pump at the PVC valve.

Another point, check the thread on the pump many are 1.5 inch NPT not BSP :doh: :doh:(y)
Yeah it's all no problem, just happy to have other people's experiences, already found out about the threads after an hour of trying to find a nut that fitted
 
May 29, 2014
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Something like this, not to any scale or plan just the general design.View attachment 478977
Had experience of these in boats your proposed installation should work well keeping pump low as possible.
Known as a No 1 turdhurler in marine trade ( and double the price)
Do not run it dry or you will destroy the rubber impellor.
They are very noisey and the note changes when not drawing fluid.

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Eggs

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Back to the electronic valve again now :doh: :giggle:

Pipes are all sorts of sizes, whatever came to hand when I was building it, but the pipe work from the sink and shower had u bends incorporated.
If the pump should need to come out while the tank is full you could empty it using the original outlet, no need for an isolation valve. Or have I missed. Something?
 
OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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That's true I could leave that one in, I was going to use the same hole and make it bigger for the pump but it canjust of easy have it's own hole (y)
That's solved another problem, eh we will have it up and running this weekend(y):giggle:
 
OP
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chaser
Feb 16, 2013
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We have put it in today, it is fantastic, even if I do say so myself, pumps a full tank out in about a minute, no leaks, nothing , just sit inside and press the switch. (y) (y)
Would recommend one for anyone who doesn't want to grovel about in other people's waste water.:sun::sun:

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