Leaking gas cylinder?

Malcyb

Free Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2020
Posts
28
Likes collected
6
Funster No
73,827
MH
Globecar PVC
Exp
Since 2019
Hi,
We‘ve just taken our van out for its first proper outing (a few days in rural Shropshire), and it’s the first time we’ve had to deal with propane cylinders; our previous, first, van had an underslung LPG tank. While we contemplated whether to get a refillable system we got an 11 kg bottle to be getting along with. We’ve discovered a fairly pronounced smell of gas at the point I open the tap on the cylinder which doesn’t go away, and a slight hiss from the top of the cylinder. Though I don’t have any leak detector spray to prove it, I don’t think the problem is the connection to our hose, since after shutting the tap on the cylinder, there was a sharp hiss of gas as soon as I started to loosen the screw a little so I think it was a good seal. So I think it must be the tap on the cylinder that’s at fault. Is this likely? I’ve obviously no idea how fast the leak is, but we’ve used the stove once and we’re still alive. I was contemplating just shutting the tap when we’re not using any gas, but would it be unwise to use it at all. Even though this will cause us a lot of hassle for a few days it would be better than having a disaster...
 
Hi,
We‘ve just taken our van out for its first proper outing (a few days in rural Shropshire), and it’s the first time we’ve had to deal with propane cylinders; our previous, first, van had an underslung LPG tank. While we contemplated whether to get a refillable system we got an 11 kg bottle to be getting along with. We’ve discovered a fairly pronounced smell of gas at the point I open the tap on the cylinder which doesn’t go away, and a slight hiss from the top of the cylinder. Though I don’t have any leak detector spray to prove it, I don’t think the problem is the connection to our hose, since after shutting the tap on the cylinder, there was a sharp hiss of gas as soon as I started to loosen the screw a little so I think it was a good seal. So I think it must be the tap on the cylinder that’s at fault. Is this likely? I’ve obviously no idea how fast the leak is, but we’ve used the stove once and we’re still alive. I was contemplating just shutting the tap when we’re not using any gas, but would it be unwise to use it at all. Even though this will cause us a lot of hassle for a few days it would be better than having a disaster...

I'd keep it turned off until you get the leak detector spray on it. I'd even keep it outside until you can do so, as it can leak even with the valve off in some scenarios.
 
Slight digression having discovered this thread....


is the connector on my hose meant to have a rubber stop on the end, I.e. is this missing something?
 

Attachments

  • 716EE703-52C2-498B-9D64-A3EBC3A7135C.jpeg
    716EE703-52C2-498B-9D64-A3EBC3A7135C.jpeg
    36.8 KB · Views: 55
For a very rough guide mix some washing up liquid in some water, half a cupful will do, and spray it over all the connections. This isn't official advice but it might give an idea where the leak is, if in doubt chuck it out.
 
Slight digression having discovered this thread....


is the connector on my hose meant to have a rubber stop on the end, I.e. is this missing something?
This one looks like metal to metal they don't all have rubber

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Slight digression having discovered this thread....


is the connector on my hose meant to have a rubber stop on the end, I.e. is this missing something?
Duplicate
 
Check that there's no grit or dirt in the tap on the bottle
 
For a very rough guide mix some washing up liquid in some water, half a cupful will do, and spray it over all the connections. This isn't official advice but it might give an idea where the leak is, if in doubt chuck it out.

i thought that risked corroding your connections? I’ve got nothing to spray with anyway. I think I’ll wait until I can get some proper spray which will probably have to be when we get home. In the meantime we’ve dug out our portable gas stove and we’ll leave the gas off for now.
 
I'd keep it turned off until you get the leak detector spray on it. I'd even keep it outside until you can do so, as it can leak even with the valve off in some scenarios.
The hissing sound and gas smell are only apparent when the tap is open so I don’t think it’s worth taking the cylinder out. It was a b****y nightmare to get into the cupboard anyway so really don’t want to do that. Last time I’m getting a 11 kg cylinder I think.
 
i thought that risked corroding your connections? I’ve got nothing to spray with anyway. I think I’ll wait until I can get some proper spray which will probably have to be when we get home. In the meantime we’ve dug out our portable gas stove and we’ll leave the gas off for now.
I've never heard of it corroding connections if used as a one off, a bit like using easy start to test fuel supply to an engine, perhaps The Ex-Gasman could advise? Washing up liquid doesn't really need spraying, rubbing a bit of the mix around the connections may show up a leak? Probably best to turn the supply off and removing the bottle by the sound of it.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
I've never heard of it corroding connections if used as a one off, a bit like using easy start to test fuel supply to an engine, perhaps The Ex-Gasman could advise? Washing up liquid doesn't really need spraying, rubbing a bit of the mix around the connections may show up a leak? Probably best to turn the supply off and removing the bottle by the sound of it.
We used washing up liquid for years, it works as well as leak detection fluid but can cause corrosion so best to rinse it off after, if you want to trace a leak it's better than nothing.
 
We used washing up liquid for years, it works as well as leak detection fluid but can cause corrosion so best to rinse it off after, if you want to trace a leak it's better than nothing.
We did the same when working on AHU's.
 
We had a calor gas cylinder that had a groove through the sealing part was changed with no questions
 
We had a calor gas cylinder that had a groove through the sealing part was changed with no questions
That’s handy to know, thought I’d be well out of pocket. Mind you it was about 9 months ago that we bought the cylinder. Thanks to lockdown and other stuff the poor van has been an expensive ornament on our drive all this time.
 
It was the gasboard that stopped the use of fairy for testing as it rotted the seam on their meters when the changed to crimping the two halves together which created a gutter that held the salty fluid
bottles are much thicker steel and apart from discolouring the brass it should be ok to use occasionally

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
you don't use much washing up liquid in the mix anyway. Just enough to bubble if any gas passes through it. Simply wipe dry after if you are worried. IT WILL NOT CAUSE A LEAK, it will cause minor corrosion/green staining if left

Better a bit of mess than the danger of leaking LPG escaping under pressure. I have known more than one calor cylinder that either didn't connect gas tight or the valve stem leaked. Calor will exchange it Free of charge if the cylinder is faulty, even if you've used a lot of the LPG in there
 
Right... I went out and bought a bottle of leak detector spray (just £3 from screwfix) and tested my connections. No sign of a leak from the cylinder tap, however one or two bubbles did emerge from my hose connection to the cylinder. It must be a slow leak because, as I said before, when you loosen the connector you hear the sudden hiss of gas escaping, but a leak all the same. Up until now I’d just been tightening it by hand, so I got a wrench and made it super-tight (could see it turn a fraction more). Tested again and no sign of a leak this time. So evidently hand tight (or at least my puny hand 🙂) isn’t tight enough... I hope those connectors will withstand being tightened that much? Thanks for your help everyone.
 
If it's just a brass nut it's designed to be tightened with a spanner, the ones to be done by hand have a knurled wheel to help get a good grip.
 
Right... I went out and bought a bottle of leak detector spray (just £3 from screwfix) and tested my connections. No sign of a leak from the cylinder tap, however one or two bubbles did emerge from my hose connection to the cylinder. It must be a slow leak because, as I said before, when you loosen the connector you hear the sudden hiss of gas escaping, but a leak all the same. Up until now I’d just been tightening it by hand, so I got a wrench and made it super-tight (could see it turn a fraction more). Tested again and no sign of a leak this time. So evidently hand tight (or at least my puny hand 🙂) isn’t tight enough... I hope those connectors will withstand being tightened that much? Thanks for your help everyone.
They need to be very tight to seal the standard hex connectors and if you get a cylinder with a slight mark on the sealing face, super tight.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
They need to be very tight to seal the standard hex connectors and if you get a cylinder with a slight mark on the sealing face, super tight.
Not sure I agree with "supertight". They are designed and machined surfaces and overtightening them could distort them, so they shouldn't need excess tightening . . . no such comment in the Calor video though . . . although they aren't using much force with the spanner:
 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top