Help with Basic Electrical Hook up Wiring

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ChrisA1

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I'ma newbie
I'm new here, so hi everyone!

I'm looking for some advice. I've just taken on a van to motorhome conversion and need some advice on the electrics.

It's on the very basics, and I'm sure it's bread and butter to everyone else, but what goes where in the consumer unit on a hook up? I've got the wire direct from the hook up and then 2 from 2 plug sockets and that's it.

I've tried searching on Google but can't find anything that's clear enough.

Photos in link attached. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eoe86rHPGPQ3muRx8

Thanks in advance!
 
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Hi Chris

Just to let you know that you aren't being ignored. Your post has only just this minute gone live. We randomly check and approve new members first posts to ensure they are not spammers. Your post was just approved; people can see it now (y) Thanks.
 
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tmp-cam-2973035264293150151.jpg


Neutral in the breaker top right..
Live in the breaker next to it.

The 2 top lefts are lives out to the sockets.
The neutrals out go in the neutral bar top right.
And all Earths go in the earth bar top left (y)
 
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First the warning - if you aren't a trained sparky, messing around with 240V wiring could be dangerous for you, or other users of your van, or even those who might come into contact with it when it is plugged in! Take care.

At the simplest of levels your van will be wiring the inlet round pin socket to the master RCD busbar, and then your internal sockets will go from the MCBs.

But have you got the correct consumer unit? Your input RCD is rated at 40A. That's a lot much more than a typical campsite would offer (typically 10A), and even that you'd have from a standard 3 pin extension lead from your house (13A). So you'd vastly overload the incoming capacity of your supply, and the extension lead itself.
 
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hi Chris.. and welcome..
just had a look at your photos.. the wire that is attached to the external hook up socket will have to supply the main switch on the consumer unit.. that's the one with the little push button trip on it..
if the other two wires are attached to sockets they can be fed from the other two breakers in the consumer unit..
the main incoming wire will have an earth pin which should be attached to a good metal area of the chassie as should the earth rail of the consumer unit..thats what the piece of wire in the last photo is most probably made up for..

because its 230v you are playing with it might pay to get someone who is familiar with wiring a consumer unit up to have a look..
Andy

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Thanks all for your replies. So the earth on the incoming supply doesn't go to the earth rail along the top like the other earths? Does the paint need removing with earthing the main earth bar to the chassis? I think I will wire it up, then get it checked by an expert before actually using it, just to be sure. We don't plan to have much running off it, just a TV, mini fridge (possibly Microwave very occasionally) and phone chargers, that's about it.
 
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If you must do it yourself. ....

At the top of each breaker.....
1st from right...Incoming neutral (from hookup)
2nd from right.... Incoming live (from hookup)
3rd from right..... Live out to both sockets
4th from right... Redundant (too small at 6amp)

All neutrals to right hand bar at top.

All earth's, Inc hookup cable earth and earth to chassis, to left hand bar at top.
MUST BE EARTHED TO CHASSIS.

Main switch is too big at 40amps but you might not get a smaller main switch.

You could swap the left hand breaker for a 16amp and wire a socket to each 16amo breaker as above.
 
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Nobody else notice the left hand breaker is only 6amp then.... :doh:

Not very often you get a garage consumer unit with two identical breakers. Nearly always a 16/32a & 6a
 
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Thanks. So as it is, the 6amp is good for nothing? Single plug socket for charging phones etc for example?

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You only get 5 free posts then you can read only or subscribe to continue posting
Worth £15 for advise, help and a bit of fun for a year.
 
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If I remove the 6a then and replace it with a 16a, would I be better of buying a double 16a to go across both? Is that possible to do that? I read somewhere that double bar ones are meant to be safer, is that correct?
 
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ChrisA1 said:
If I remove the 6a then and replace it with a 16a, would I be better of buying a double 16a to go across both? Is that possible to do that? I read somewhere that double bar ones are meant to be safer, is that correct?
Click to expand...
No I think your thinking of double pole breakers that break the neutral too, not suitable for yours. Just buy a 16 breaker, they're cheap and a piece of p1ss to change. Get the same make though (y)
 
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As Richard said, not suitable.
You have a live busbar feeding both breakers and the double pole breakers are fed by a live and neutral wire. The busbar would need cutting and wiring modifying. Not worth the effort and cost especially as you have a protective main switch which cuts both live and neutral.

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Just realised what you're thinking. A double pole breaker doesn't mean two 16a breakers in one housing... It means live and neutral (two poles) are switched in one breaker.
 
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Ok brilliant, thanks everyone for that. I will just get another single 16a then. What happens if I cannot source the same make again easily as this was off the internet. Going to say a local screwfix and getting any 16a isn't any good then? Are they all slightly different?

Ps. Thanks for the heads up with the 5 posts, will join tomorrow as going to have a couple more questions going forward I'm going to need help with I'm sure! :)
 
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I've never come across that make before so I couldn't say if any other makes will fit.

Some common ones will fit others but most are a unique fit.
They all fit a common din rail but the physical dimensions differ stopping them fitting the busbar and cabinets.
 
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I'm not going to be popular round here, but I'll say it anyway:(.

The 40A RCD is perfectly OK. It is not supposed to protect against excessive amps, the '40A' means how much current it can carry without damage. The important figure is the '30ma' underneath it, which is the leakage (Residual Current) that causes it to trip.

You should use double pole MCBs, not single pole ones like the ones in the pictures. Wire the incoming hookup wire straight to the RCD input, then wire the RCD output (L and N) to the MCB inputs (L and N). No need for a 'neutral busbar' with double pole breakers.

Double pole MCBs seem to be difficult to find in the UK. You may have to go to a specialist electrical supplier, or buy online. I've never seen them in any DIY store in the UK.

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autorouter said:
It is not supposed to protect against excessive amps, the '40A' means how much current it can carry without damage
Click to expand...

Not something I've ever thought about, would it trip at 40 amps then? Or just start melting? :eek:

I suppose then.. The 40a rating would protect the incoming cable?

(I know not in this case:D2)
 
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Double pole will be safer for you if you travel abroad and something goes wrong with your toaster etc, the (switched off) DP breaker means you can leave it plugged in while working on it... Like as if you would anyway :confused: I personally wouldn't bother, but it's up to you of course. (y)
 
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Another vote for double pole RCBs, the single pole ones won't give you full protection if you have an EHU supply which is reverse polarity. This is not uncommon to find.
 
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6 amp one is usually used for the 240 suppply to fridge everyting else goes on the 16 amp one if your not using a three way fridge then fit 2 16amp breakers and run battery charger from one and sockets on the other
all earths are connected to the earth block and one wire should go from that block to the chasssis
 
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All this talk is all well and good but what sort of wire is being connected to it. It's ok saying use 16A fuse but this is supposed to protect the internal wiring. Internal wiring in MHs is not grey electrical cable which may not stand up to the vibration in a van. You should be using multi strand cable and the correct 13a fittings. You are dealing with 240v outside and you can certainly hurt yourself if you get it wrong. If you don't know anything about electrics then leave it to someone who does.

The EHU will be 10 or even 16A and you should use a suitable cable with the correct connectors to connect it to the van. This cable is usually very thick and orange in colour so people can see it. Most EHU cables have two blue connectors one on each end. One Male and one Female. They connect to a Male blue connector on the van. This works very well and if you happen to drive off while still connected something just pulls apart.

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He did just ask how to wire it up though. Not "can someone please quickly run me through the 18th edition regulations?" :ROFLMAO:
 
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DBK said:
Another vote for double pole RCBs,
Click to expand...
All RCDs are double pole. It's the MCBs that are single pole in the pictures, and I think should be double pole. Sorry to pick you up on terminology, but in this case it's the central issue.
 
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You're all going to confuse the OP.
He had to ask how to wire a basic consumer unit so his electrical knowledge is none existent.
The present consumer unit is neither suitable, without electrical knowledge, or large enough for double pole MCBs.
 
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I know (or I think I know) that the double pole RCD offer better protection in case of reversed polarity cos they trip both live and neutral (which might be live where there is reversed polarity)

So my next question was to be how to tell if I have double pole fitted............I am confused by posts suggesting double pole is better (as I thought I thought) and then @autorouter stating that they are all double pole.

We seems to be moving between RCD................RCB....................MCB double and single so any clarity on that would help me(I think)
 
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