Help for leaking washroom tap (1 Viewer)

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Riverbankannie

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just leaving to the tunnel and can hear a drip drip from somewhere behind the fold up sink.
The tap is also leaking and we suspect something to do with the fold up arm.
Can anyone help with how to dismantle the tap ?
Does the Rev /blue button pop off ?
 
Jan 16, 2019
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Not seen exact same tap but normally pop off red and blue plastic cap with a small screwdriver or sharp knife and theres normally a screw behind
 
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Sep 10, 2012
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Not familiar with that tap but usually as you say under the red/blue button there is a brass screw. Carefully ease it out with a jewellers screwdriver. The arm probably needs a new O ring.
As for the drip you need access to get a look and I dont know how to remove a folding sink but someone will be along shortly
Hth if only slightly
 
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Riverbankannie

Riverbankannie

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Thanks
I can remove folding sink, a regular job to ensure drain at base is clear.

We have examined rear of unit as best we can by removing upper fridge vent and can see the water pipes entering the unit from behind.

Does anyone know if we need any special tools to dismantle tap?
 
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TheBig1

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i cant remember the exact method to dismantle the tap, but to cure the leak pull the spout out and pack the O ring with silicon grease ideally or if unavailable Vaseline and push back together
 
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Oct 29, 2016
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We had problems with our Reich shower mixer recently as it dripped constantly.
If you remove the blue/red plastic bits with a pointy thing, we used a Stanley knife blade, you should see a Phillips screw behind. Remove screw and handle will lift off, then take off chrome ring behind the handle. You will then see a locking ring spacer which is difficult to get at, but can be done with long nosed pliers, then unscrew it.
Your plastic cartridge will then come out, so you can check silicon seals behind it as they can let water pass.
New cartridges can be ordered on line, ours cost us about £11, but we needed a new black plastic lock ring also which was nearly impossible to order as its not sold as a spare part.
The black plastic lock-nut was not supporting the cartridge seals at the back as it had been pushed forward and cross threaded when it froze up over winter, my fault the one time we came back and didn't blow the water out the shower hose, and the bloody thing froze even after draining the whole system, there was water being held back by the trigger shower head.
Try and preserve the black plastic lock-nut,yours may have a metal one which is much more substantial(y) take it out carefully and & put it back hand tight, then just pinch up a quarter turn with long nose pliers otherwise its a whole new mixer at over £100:eek:
Good luck with sourcing the parts,took me over 2 weeks of ringing around, Reich UK saved the day in the end.

Les
 
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Silver-Fox

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As Les has said.
Also regarding lock nuts, very often you can get brass ones from a good builders or plumbers merchants.


I hate plastic nuts on plumbing fittings :mad:

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Until you can fix it switch off the pump and open a tap to relieve pressure - at least it should stop the drip
 
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Emmit

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Hi @Riverbankannie,

If the Red/Blue is anything like mine, a word of, not exactly warning but;

Those parts are in two parts, the Red and, er? Blue.
They are 'handed' ie. you can't put in the wrong way around.
I ruined mine in getting them out and was lucky to find a dealer that was selling the Red/Blue plus micro switches, (old stock) cheap. (I sold the switches on and got my money back)(y)
Anyway, back to the plot. If you CAREFULLY, with one of those small craft knives, insert the tip in between the colours and, after going down not very far, lever the sharp point upwards, it might 'dig in' and 'Pop out' one of them. The other will be easy.

The least I could do.

Regards
 
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Riverbankannie

Riverbankannie

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Thanks everyone, on move at present as had to go and have coffee with friends whose wedding we were at yesterday and so no chance to catch up I
On here. Not going to tunnel tonight but looking for campsite where we can investigate leak further but there is also a leak from the t joint behind the sink unit that we can see through fridge vent. Floor wet of course under.
Will update you all later when found a campsite for tonight,
Thanks again
 
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Riverbankannie

Riverbankannie

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Update.
We have found a nice CL near Harman’s Cross to stay tonight and cancelled Eurotunnel for tonight.
Because I like nice soft lips .........:whistle: I was able to donate this as we had no silicone grease. Have pulled off rotating tap arm and cleaned and re-seated the o ring. A quick test with the pump back on and no leaking there anymore !:)
However the T junction in the hot water pipe plumbing at the rear still has a leak. I will start a separate thread.
Thanks again.
5AD2006A-7E62-4177-8857-FDC49C493F89.jpeg
 
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DBK

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Update.
We have found a nice CL near Harman’s Cross to stay tonight and cancelled Eurotunnel for tonight.
Because I like nice soft lips .........:whistle: I was able to donate this as we had no silicone grease. Have pulled off rotating tap arm and cleaned and re-seated the o ring. A quick test with the pump back on and no leaking there anymore !:)
However the T junction in the hot water pipe plumbing at the rear still has a leak. I will start a separate thread.
Thanks again.
View attachment 307411
If you can't easily sort the leaking T joint you can buy Fernox LS-X leak sealer from Screwfix and they might be open tomorrow, our local branch is open 7 days a week. It can be applied to the outside of joints but needs a few hours to cure although curing is faster if you spray a bit of water at it. Obviously you would need to turn off the water pump to temporarily stop the leak. Fernox isn't cheap but it is very effective. :)

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