Fitting a 1500W Inverter (1 Viewer)

[haganap]

I think it's just for extra safety. If you had a long run with both cables side by side and there was some sort of accident - mad axeman or even a collision there could be a fire if there was no fuse to blow.

Thanks but I still don't sort of get why it makes a difference as to which end it goes? What am I missing? I am genuinely interested, not being critical you understand? My understanding would be a power surge etc the fuse would blow protecting the appliances regardless of where it was within the line?

 

[funflair]

Thanks but I still don't sort of get why it makes a difference as to which end it goes? What am I missing? I am genuinely interested, not being critical you understand? My understanding would be a power surge etc the fuse would blow protecting the appliances regardless of where it was within the line?

Hi Paul

My understanding is that the fuse is there to protect the cable and stop a fire if it was overloaded, so any cable before the fuse is unprotected and could sort and cause a fire.

Martin

 

[two]

The only thing I might re-consider is the automatic changeover. It works but if you are on a limited supply, we've seen 3A in Italy which means you have to unplug the EHU to run a heavy load. A manual changeover would solve this but what if I forgot to switch it back and flattened the batteries?

I split my internal mains into two: That from the inverter, and that from the EHU.
EHU for fridge, charger, kettle & heating.
Inverter for (other) sockets.

I’d only switch electric heating on if the EHU was at least 6A (preferably 10A) but use anything on the inverter-supplied sockets. The batteries stepped in to supply whatever the EHU was unable to provide through the charger, leaving it to “catch up” later.

I still had to manage the use of ‘leccy but that seemed a simpler solution than including any changeover.

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[DBK]

Thanks but I still don't sort of get why it makes a difference as to which end it goes? What am I missing? I am genuinely interested, not being critical you understand? My understanding would be a power surge etc the fuse would blow protecting the appliances regardless of where it was within the line?

If the fault occurs in say the inverter the position of the fuse doesn't matter but in the case of my installation there is a good two metres of cable between the batteries and the inverter. If the fuse was at the inverter end, as it was at first, then if a short occured somewhere in that two metre run there would be no fuse to protect things. A short is unlikely but it might happen and putting the fuse at the battery end covers that possibility.

 

[Lenny HB]

Putting it simply compared to John's detailed explanation.
With the fuse next to the battery everything in circuit from that point on is protected, fit the fuse at the other end of the cable and protection is only given to items past that point.
In John's case it is particularly important due to the long cable run.

 

[eddie]

If fuse access is an issue, use two fuse holders and fuses. The inaccessible one can be slightly higher than the rating of the fuse which could be more easily accessed

Where did you fit the inverter output RCD?

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[DBK]

If fuse access is an issue, use two fuse holders and fuses. The inaccessible one can be slightly higher than the rating of the fuse which could be more easily accessed

Where did you fit the inverter output RCD?

Sorry about the three month delay replying. The RCD is shown in the 6th image in the OP.

 

[Vipar]

I would not have bought a MH if I had known that there was so much electrical equipment in my van. I am a electric numpty. I am going to ask Father Christmas to get someone like you lot to move near me. I would pay someone to come and check out my electric’s and explain what was what and how they all worked. It is getting near to the point where I am thinking of selling it. And going back to package holidays. All I keep getting is flat batteries. Have had a new cab battery fitted 10 weeks ago by the dealer. And 2 new leisure batteries. I bought a trickle charger left it connected have got the van on EHU. Battery now reading 3.2 volts so I am collecting another normal 6-12 volt charger to get the battery charged enough to start it. Just hope the van battery is not knackered. Sorry for the rant but I am really pi55ed off at the moment.????

 

[DBK]

I would not have bought a MH if I had known that there was so much electrical equipment in my van. I am a electric numpty. I am going to ask Father Christmas to get someone like you lot to move near me. I would pay someone to come and check out my electric’s and explain what was what and how they all worked. It is getting near to the point where I am thinking of selling it. And going back to package holidays. All I keep getting is flat batteries. Have had a new cab battery fitted 10 weeks ago by the dealer. And 2 new leisure batteries. I bought a trickle charger left it connected have got the van on EHU. Battery now reading 3.2 volts so I am collecting another normal 6-12 volt charger to get the battery charged enough to start it. Just hope the van battery is not knackered. Sorry for the rant but I am really pi55ed off at the moment.????

I am not telling you anything you don't know when I say that shouldn't happen. I suggest ringing John Cross Motorhomes, who are not far from you, and ask them if they would be prepared to have a look at it or if not can they recommend an auto electrician.

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[Abacist]

You say that you are a numptee as regards 12 volt electrics but in my personal experience I believe that most people can get to grips with a subject if they put their mind to it and read widely on the subject and not just on the internet. It might just be that you need to have a glass half full attitude rather than a glass half empty. I find that it can become an enjoyable hobby taking on a new interest/skill that helps around the home. It becomes especially rewarding when you don't need to pay expensive hourly rates for diagnosis and repair work. As you can see on here there are people that can help and advise.

In your post you have told us that you have tried to cover the supply side by using EHU and a trickle charger but you have not commented on the current draw side of things. What is taking the power and running down the batteries. Something must be switched on and drawing the current or there is a leak. Also you need to establish if there is any connection between the cab and cab batteries so that they can support each other if a charging current is applied at either end and if this is working properly.

I don't know if you bought your van new or used so we don't know if the electrics are as supplied by the manufacturer or have been adapted or changed by a previous owner. I also don't know what van, what year, what model etc though my experience is limited there are a wealth of members on here with fantastic skills and experience.

Please don't be disheartened and have a go at reading up about vans and electrics!

 

[Vipar]

Once we get out of this lockdown thing I intend to go to Eddievanbitz and have a battery master fitted. At the moment all is working ok fingers crossed the trickle charger is keeping the cab battery topped up and the engine battery is fully charged. Poking around I found what looks like an inverter but has charger handwritten on it so I assume that when on EHU I switch that on and it will charge the engine battery. I have been studying 12 volt electrics and gradually get my head around it. But the more you learn you find out the less you know. And my cup is always half full. Just some health problems drag me down some days.
Thanks for all your help