ELECTRIC PASSENGER WINDOW NOT WORKING (1 Viewer)

[sallylillian]

Don't know about Hymer but most cars use a device that switches off the motor when it senses the rise in current from a stalled motor. The advantage of such a system is that it stops the motor if anything obstructs the window as well as acting as an end-stop.

Thanks, that was the direction of my thought process, if there is no limit switch and the glass goes down it suggests some obstruction or friction creating, if similar, sufficient current draw or perhaps a motor sensor faulty/near end of life restricting upward and more demanding movement?

 

[tonyidle]

Thanks, that was the direction of my thought process, if there is no limit switch and the glass goes down it suggests some obstruction or friction creating, if similar, sufficient current draw or perhaps a motor sensor faulty/near end of life restricting upward and more demanding movement?

Unlikely as the same device works for either direction. I'd guess, as others have suggested, that it's damaged wiring where it flexes as the door opens/closes. Car makers go to great lengths to prevent damage in that area - mh converters do nothing.

 

[TinTentTourist]

Just a thought... My post yesterday linked to Amazon and a contact cleaner from Weurth. Although the picture looks the same, when I re read it later, it appears to be just a water dispersal spray much like WD40. I am sure the one I had was an oxidation remover that looks identical to this spray can but actually does much more. My problem was an oxidation issue that caused poor and intermittent contact and the same window issues as you. I was given the end of a can by a garage friend and it worked brilliantly - do you have any friends in the motor trade or access the the wider range of spray products from Weurth? Might be worth a look!

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[gwyntaxi]

Just a thought... My post yesterday linked to Amazon and a contact cleaner from Weurth. Although the picture looks the same, when I re read it later, it appears to be just a water dispersal spray much like WD40. I am sure the one I had was an oxidation remover that looks identical to this spray can but actually does much more. My problem was an oxidation issue that caused poor and intermittent contact and the same window issues as you. I was given the end of a can by a garage friend and it worked brilliantly - do you have any friends in the motor trade or access the the wider range of spray products from Weurth? Might be worth a look!

Hi there TinTentTourist, thanks for your interest and suggestions, I have tried contact cleaning spray but still no joy, turns out the window has given up altogether now even before I tried the contact spray so I am now at a dead end, what I thought I might try is when I come across another similar aged/model Hymer maybe to ask the owner would,if I could try his switch, at least it would eliminate that,I have taken the switch apart as suggested by another funster and sprayed the contacts inside still nothing, I am reluctant to try and source a switch before doing this as one funster did this and it turned out not to be the switch at fault, the real downside being that the switch cost him over £50, now an expensive spare part, if that would sort it I wouldn’t mind paying it, but then there’s the problem of where to source one from as it doesn’t look like a Mercedes part, so I can’t see why it was so expensive, and there isn’t any identification part numbers on it.

 

[gwyntaxi]

Hi there TinTentTourist, thanks for your interest and suggestions, I have tried contact cleaning spray but still no joy, turns out the window has given up altogether now even before I tried the contact spray so I am now at a dead end, what I thought I might try is when I come across another similar aged/model Hymer maybe to ask the owner would,if I could try his switch, at least it would eliminate that,I have taken the switch apart as suggested by another funster and sprayed the contacts inside still nothing, I am reluctant to try and source a switch before doing this as one funster did this and it turned out not to be the switch at fault, the real downside being that the switch cost him over £50, now an expensive spare part, if that would sort it I wouldn’t mind paying it, but then there’s the problem of where to source one from as it doesn’t look like a Mercedes part, so I can’t see why it was so expensive, and there isn’t any identification part numbers on it.

 

[tonyidle]

Hi there TinTentTourist, thanks for your interest and suggestions, I have tried contact cleaning spray but still no joy, turns out the window has given up altogether now even before I tried the contact spray so I am now at a dead end, what I thought I might try is when I come across another similar aged/model Hymer maybe to ask the owner would,if I could try his switch, at least it would eliminate that,I have taken the switch apart as suggested by another funster and sprayed the contacts inside still nothing, I am reluctant to try and source a switch before doing this as one funster did this and it turned out not to be the switch at fault, the real downside being that the switch cost him over £50, now an expensive spare part, if that would sort it I wouldn’t mind paying it, but then there’s the problem of where to source one from as it doesn’t look like a Mercedes part, so I can’t see why it was so expensive, and there isn’t any identification part numbers on it.

Why not consider a logical faulting process? Trying something because it worked for someone else is unlikely to lead to the fault. In the absence of a wiring diagram I would check for power to the switch (already done?) then remove the door trim and test the motor (which will be OK because it runs in one direction). From there a few simple checks on the wiring will find the culprit. Incidently all power windows work by reversing the supply to the motor to change the direction of window operation. The switch often achieves this very simplistically. Complication arises when a safety stop to prevent entrapment is incorporated and/or relays to unload the switch are included. I have never seen a limit switch on electric windows - an anti-entrapment relay stops the motor as soon as it stalls whether caused by neck of a child or by reaching the top (or bottom) of travel. My money is still on the wiring where it enters the door mainly because motorhome converters make no effort to protect it in this area.

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[gwyntaxi]

Hi tonyidle, thanks for your suggestions, I have just found an almost identical switch on eBay so I will try that as a process of elimination, it wasn’t expensive so I thought that it was worth a punt, as for the wiring that passes through the door pillar I’ve given that a good wiggle but no joy there, I had considered removing the door panel but all around the panel is an Aluminium trim which is holding it in place and the plastic panel seems very brittle, the van is 14 years old after all, so I shall wait until the switch arrives and try that first, if I don’t get any joy there I will have to think about taking it to an auto-electrician before I attempt removing the door panel, I will post on here if I ever get a positive outcome, many thanks for your interest. Gwyntaxi.

 

[tonyidle]

Hi tonyidle, thanks for your suggestions, I have just found an almost identical switch on eBay so I will try that as a process of elimination, it wasn’t expensive so I thought that it was worth a punt, as for the wiring that passes through the door pillar I’ve given that a good wiggle but no joy there, I had considered removing the door panel but all around the panel is an Aluminium trim which is holding it in place and the plastic panel seems very brittle, the van is 14 years old after all, so I shall wait until the switch arrives and try that first, if I don’t get any joy there I will have to think about taking it to an auto-electrician before I attempt removing the door panel, I will post on here if I ever get a positive outcome, many thanks for your interest. Gwyntaxi.

At that age a new switch certainly won't be wasted. The trouble with a wire break across the hinge side of the door is that the break may pull apart within the insulation and a wiggle is unlikely to bridge the connection. Either way a look inside the door wouldn't be a bad idea given that possibly no-one has done so since the van was built. Unreliable things Hymers .

 

[gwyntaxi]

Hi tonyidle, I am pinning my hopes on a dodgy switch,if that fails, it's gonna have to be the auto-electrician, here's hoping.

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[gwyntaxi]

Hi Airwave, I had considered contacting Brownhills if I couldn't source a switch, but after previous experience with Brownhills parts prices, I thought I would try the internet first and I found what appears to be an identical switch, so I thought at just a few quid it's gotta be worth a try, so I am patiently waiting for it to arrive. We'll have to wait and see. Thanks anyway.

 

[Delboyarapaho]

I had this (one window just wouldn't work after a while) on my 2015 Elegance a couple of years ago. Took it to the local FIAT Dealer (Dunstable) who said they believed it was a dodgy earth connection. Impossible to locate so they inserted a new wire and (touch wood) perfect since. Best of all they didn't charge me anything even though they couldn't claim back costs of warranty as it falls down the crack between FIAT & Burstner (being an A Class). They certainly have my support for any future work I need doing! Great company