ive got mine currently dismantled as I am changing the discs and pads. its been a bit of a struggle, but with a bit of perseverance ive got there - now ive done one it will only take me a couple of hours or so to do the other one. the trouble I had was removing the brake calipers from the hub - its 2 @ 22mm bolts that seem to have been put in with thread tight paste or something similar. needed heating up quite few times and slowly removing. I didnt want to use an impact wrench as I was concerned that if they were in that tight I might snap the bolts as I didnt know at the time whether it was rust holding them so tight or as I found out, some sort of thread tight. space was also a bit limited for getting an impact wrench in, so i went for the old school method of using heat
I used heat proof mats that plumbers use to protect anything - I obviously removed the part of the caliper that holds the discs in place from the hub. I did have to buy small canister type blow torch @ £60 from toolstation, but it was money well spent as I will use it elsewhere from time to time.
discs and brakes were around £90 in total from europarts using the discount code they have at weekends/bank holidays etc I vould have got them cheaper on ebay no doubt but wanted them 'immediately' - I didnt have to remove the discs but they came up as 'corroded' as an advisory on the MoT so as I had to change the pads, I decided to do the job properly - so it will be fine for the next 10 years at least LOL
I found youtube a great source of info - inc one in French on adjusting the handbrake shoes - which are inside the brake disc
Brilliant information thanks. I struggled with the 22mm bolts but managed in the end.
Thanks bit I'm struggling with is putting handbrake shoes back on. I've tried always to fit them but still can't get them to fit.
Any chance of a couple of pictures of shoes in situ and particularly the position of the springs and the cable actuator at the bottom.
Moral of this story is take plenty of pictures before I start.
Thanks again for your help but I'm sorry to say it's beat me. Spoke to a mobile mechanic yesterday and he said they're a bugger to fit. He normally whips the hub off to give better access . He's coming round this afternoon.
just as I thought really. they are not subject to friction wear as they only operate when the vehicle is stopped, unless of course you do handbrake turns lol. so wear on them should be minimal. there are adjusters on them aswell which you are supposed to set just so the drum/disc doesn't rotate more than one turn or so (from what I could gather on the French youtube clip)
I will leave well alone - as the handbrake was working perfectly well in the first place !
Job sorted. Mechanic came to have a look and was in the same boat as me. Never done one before but would have a struggle on Monday. This didn't fill me with confidence. He quoted between £60-£100 depending on length of time.
I managed to get the name of a contact at our local Fiat dealer and picked his brains.
Only way to do it in his opinion was remove the hub.
I cancelled mobile mechanic to have a crack myself.
I borrowed a 46mm socket and big bar from a friend of mine and undid the big nut and removed n/s hub. It came off fairly easy but the nut was night.
5 minutes and the shoes were on.
The o/s was a bit more awkward. Nut came off ok but hub was very tight. Managed to get it off with a lot of persuasion but the back of the bearing is damaged. Don't know if I did this taking it off or if it was already damaged.
New bearing and discs ordered for Monday so hopefully should be up and running again next week .
Not sure how tight the bearing will be. Don't have a press so we'll see.
Thanks for your help and the pictures.
Thanks. Did you take any photos? Did you use a hub puller or something else to persuade it off. If the side that was damaged was hard to get off then chances are it was already damaged. I wont be changing my hand break shoes though, so THANKS for the heads up!!
Forgot the photos. The good side came off with a big pull and a gentle tap with a hammer. The other side took a lot more persuasion with a hammer.
A slide hammer would have made it a lot easier but I think they should just come off easy.
Not put it together yet as i am taking the opportunity to apply chemical rust killer to everything and then paint and underseal so what should be an afternoon has turned into a full week of preventative maintenance. When i was researching, the advice was to adjust the handbreak on each drum by winding out the pads using the handbrake adjuster at the top of the hub. If you rotate the drum so that one of the wheel nut holes lines up with the adjuster then you can use a flat head screwdriver to make the adjustment. The ideal setting is when the drum can only rotate less than one full turn from what i gleaned. I am reassembling tomorrow so can count the clicks then if that helps?
Im hoping i dont need to adjust them as my handbreak was fine and the hub only rotates less than one full turn on the one side i have finished. Have you tried adjusting by removing the wheels and turning rhe adjuster?
Lol. I might have finished my 'little' job by then. Hate to think how much it would have cost for a garage to do all the rust preventative treatment to the extent im doing it. I dont want to just underseal it without doing the prep work first.
my handbreak is on at the second click !! rear drums/disc now all fully assembled and working great. I reckon the drums/discs have NEVER been replaced from new - and possibly even the brake pads, but all is well now. just fitted the back part of the exhaust as it came up as an advisory, so ive replaced it now while ive got the opportunity - better than it going when I'm on the road somewhere
The rear section was just over £50 and it took me longer to remove the old exhaust than it did to fit the new one. New one went on in under 10 minutes. I had to cut through the existing nuts holding the front pipe to the rear section using a small disc cutter. I then also cut off the hanging brackets ATTACHED to the exhaust NOT the ones attached to the vehicle !!! It was easier then to release the bits of hangers from the rubber mountings. New one went on easy peasy !!
Stainless would have been fine but i had one done once and to keep the guarantee valid i had to take the vehicle back every 12 months so i could pay them to inspect it, plus the guarantee wasnt transferable if i sold, so i went with the simpler option this time.
Ps a little tip i found out. When replacing the rubber dust caps over the end of the pistons on the caliper, turn them inside out, place them on top of the piston (where you insert the 6mm allen key to remove them) and turn them the right way again. They just pop on dead easy. I struggled for a few minutes initially but when i tried that way, they went on instantly !