dometic fridge not cooling

Have you tried all fuel sources?

Have you noticed an “ammonia“ smell at all?

When you say “not cooling” do you mean poor cooling or no cooling at all?
 
What fuel are you using Electric or gas.
Is it not cooling on any source.
 
If on gas is the burner actually making a roaring sound or just alight?
 
Good point peter absorption fridges will cool to about 25° below ambient temp so if it’s really hot they struggle
 
Hi everyone, it was very hot here today, its not really cooling at all the freezer part is very cold, gas wasn't working properly, I've been on 240v all day.
 
Hi everyone, it was very hot here today, its not really cooling at all the freezer part is very cold, gas wasn't working properly, I've been on 240v all day.

We had a similar saga..

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Hi everyone, it was very hot here today, its not really cooling at all the freezer part is very cold, gas wasn't working properly, I've been on 240v all day.
In that case you will need to fit fans to ventilate the rear of the fridge. Paul is just showing off with his three fans. We find two will do. We got a kit complete with thermostat and an automatic setting so it was nice and easy to do. Always install in the top vent with them sucking the air out.

Gas is usually better than 240v electrics with with an absorption fridge. You may need to clean the gas chimney or it could be a blocked jet.
 
Take of the fridge vents that will help with airflow.
You need a fan fitted to the top vent a 12 volt 120mm computer fan will help a lot.
If the gas flame isn’t very strong the gas nozzle or burner could be dirty.
 
As an interim measure, remove the vent covers as this will improve air flow.

Ian
 
And if you fit a fan, don't fit it on the louvres, fit it behind so you can take the louvres off for extra ventilation, and leave the fans working.
 
In that case you will need to fit fans to ventilate the rear of the fridge. Paul is just showing off with his three fans. We find two will do. We got a kit complete with thermostat and an automatic setting so it was nice and easy to do. Always install in the top vent with them sucking the air out.

Gas is usually better than 240v electrics with with an absorption fridge. You may need to clean the gas chimney or it could be a blocked jet.
Hi could you direct me to where you can buy such a kit please?

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Hi could you direct me to where you can buy such a kit please?
I bought the CBE Kit, which you can get on Amazon It has two fans speeds, and you can either switch it on manually or let it work automatically with an adjustable temperature sensor, which is what I do. I bought it from a Dutch company (can't remember the name) because it was cheaper, but it took a while to deliver. The switchgear matched the switches and sockets in my Hymer, which are also made by CBE.

Not impressed at all with the Dometic kit, as there is only one fan which will not be enough in the hot Mediterranean sun. And, like others, I think the best position is in the top vent sucking air our, rather than blowing it in at the bottom.

While on Amazon I saw this Titan kit with remote controller which was not available when I bought. They have a fixing kit which makes it easier to fit in. And they appear to sell three different kits with 90mm, 120mm or 140mm sized fans. I would probably buy the larger fans kit if I was buying again.

Edit. The CBE kit is reasonably quiet even on the faster speed, so we keep it on automatic all night.
 
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Gas is fine the cooker and bbq ate working perfectly of the gas.
You may have one or two problems. If it is not working well on both electrics and gas and the weather is hot then the problem is probably that the fridge does not have enough ventilation at the rear. They are all the same in the middle of summer in Southern Europe. To help it you should take both vents off. But that will probably still not get the beer cold enough so the only long term solution is to fit the fan kits mentioned in previous posts.

If it works on 240v but not on gas it could be that the burner chimney is blocked and needs cleaning, or it could be that the gas jet is partially or completely blocked. Both are possible to DIY. Only clean the jet with compressed air, do not stick anything down it to try to clean it.
 
I had exactly the same problem and after expert advice from this forum went out and got the CBE fan kit which I fitted to the roof of the cavity behind the back of the fridge just if front of the top grill.

It made a HUGE difference. You can now feel the warm air blowing out the top vent cover and see the thermometers drop after a while to lower temperatures where they stay. It was on permanently 24/7 while I was holidaying in Spain these past two weeks even with temps of mid 30's C

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Try Amazon - mine are great!


TITAN- 12V DC IP55 Waterproof Double Rack Mount Ventilation Cooling Fan with Timer and Speed Controller- TTC-SC20 (120mm)

  1. TITAN- 12V DC IP55 Waterproof Double Rack Mount Ventilation Cooling Fan with Timer and Speed Controller- TTC-SC20 (120mm)
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
What cut-in temp are yours set at ? I've mine at 30º but obviously they are on nearly permanently.Was thinking of raising the cut -in ?
About 42c but the thermistor is in the last condenser fin on the left hand side...

It's the white flex shoved into a pvc tube and wedged in 👍

20200802_180711.jpg
 
My motorhome has a roof vent so fitting fans will be little bit different. Any advice on roof vent fans would be appreciated.

I was puzzled why I had a roof vent instead of the more usual upper side one, so I did a bit of digging. It seems the roof vent is for use where an awning might be fitted. The inference is that having the upper vent below an awning is seen as a problem, though I have not found the official reasoning. I would guess that the awning could trap still warm air that would interfere with the flow from the upper vent.

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My motorhome has a roof vent so fitting fans will be little bit different. Any advice on roof vent fans would be appreciated.

I was puzzled why I had a roof vent instead of the more usual upper side one, so I did a bit of digging. It seems the roof vent is for use where an awning might be fitted. The inference is that having the upper vent below an awning is seen as a problem, though I have not found the official reasoning. I would guess that the awning could trap still warm air that would interfere with the flow from the upper vent.
Is the hole big enough to accommodate a couple of 100mm square fans? If so they could be mounted horizontally on the ceiling. Otherwise I suspect it will have to be on the bottom vent blowing in rather than out.

As for why the roof vent is fitted, it seems to depend on the converter. The majority of continental layouts seem to have the fridge on the habitation door side, which is also the side for the awning. Cathargo seem to use the roof side quite a lot, whereas Hymer rarely do.
 
Is the hole big enough to accommodate a couple of 100mm square fans? If so they could be mounted horizontally on the ceiling. Otherwise I suspect it will have to be on the bottom vent blowing in rather than out.

As for why the roof vent is fitted, it seems to depend on the converter. The majority of continental layouts seem to have the fridge on the habitation door side, which is also the side for the awning. Cathargo seem to use the roof side quite a lot, whereas Hymer rarely do.

I think there might be room inside the roof vent but it will be awkward getting them in. I wondered about blowing in from the bottom vent but was concerned that it would be right next to the gas 🔥 and might affect it. The single Dometic beneath the coils is a possibility but some say it is not as effective. I might have to bite the bullet and pay to have fans in the roof vent fitted professionally. I was trying to avoid this, not so much the cost as admitting to myself that some DIY jobs are now beyond me.
 
Dometic do a kit that fits to the back of the fridge and blows upwards across the hot bits. It is thermostatically controlled by the temperature of the fridge pipe work.
Those are very expensive & don't work very well compared to fitting a couple of fans to the top vent.
What cut-in temp are yours set at ? I've mine at 30º but obviously they are on nearly permanently.Was thinking of raising the cut -in ?
It depends on where your sensor is and the fridge installation.
My sensor is on a strip of aluminum between the fans on the top vent. I find I get best results if I can set the fans to come on when the ambient temperature is 25 deg. On my current van this means setting the controller to 32, last van with a similar install it needed to be set to 35. I also set the controller for an hysterises of 2 deg.
 
I never realised that we were lucky so to speak in having the FF on the nearside of the van. That's the opposite side to the hab door and awning. Pausim, if you get a moment can you post a picture of the roof vent used to vent the FF? I had never notice that before on a compactline.

I have the fans & inkbird controllers still to fit (soon I keep telling myself), I will also fit the fan inside the fridge itself fixed to the cooling fins at the top, with its own thermister located half way down the side.
The reason is that it will help move the air around inside the fridge a lot better as the bottom salad drawer and lower shelf is not cool enough in summer, and fresh food (cooked meats etc) cannot be kept very long, then I wouldn't trust anyone to eat it.
We have had to chuck away so much fresh stuff because of this problem, so fingers crossed it will improve the situation, like it has for others that have done the mod.
Dometic or converters should put fans in, they must know there is a problem using the vans in decent summer temps. Thay must be just ignoring to keep costs down as usual, even though the FF are not usable for storing foods in high temps.
Good luck to the OP & all in this task.
LES
 
Those are very expensive & don't work very well compared to fitting a couple of fans to the top vent.

It depends on where your sensor is and the fridge installation.
My sensor is on a strip of aluminum between the fans on the top vent. I find I get best results if I can set the fans to come on when the ambient temperature is 25 deg. On my current van this means setting the controller to 32, last van with a similar install it needed to be set to 35. I also set the controller for an hysterises of 2 deg.
Lenny, I think you have the internal Fridge fan also?, Where did you fit the thermister for that, I was thinking ideally half way down the right hand side of the fridge, is some sort of white trunking to hide the wires.
Also setting the inkbird to turn on above 5/6 degrees, but I guess its trial and error to get the sweet spot, so the fans are not on all the time.
Thanks
LES

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